JustinWilson

I just feel that a tactile transducer like Rockford Fosgate's I-Beam would be a better idea, not because of brand or such. But rather the chair itself could be more comfortable and therefore have some appeal to consumers.

Got mine for sale That's what I meant by mine but wasn't so forward

I was gonna say RF T1500bdCP, I have one that makes 1921rms @1ohm. Comparable and within your price range.

Then I could run 8 total 4ohm speakers on the front channels of the amp.

Why not use resistors to achieve the correct ohm load? My plan was to wire 4 - 4ohm speakers into a 1ohm load then use a resistor to bring the resistance up to 2ohms at the amplifier channel.

1 set per channel would work for the appropriate ohm load but it seems excessive on the power load lol...I was thinking of running 4 sets off the front channels with a inline resistor to get a 2ohm load and unsure for the rear channels...

I am tempted to run 4 sets of T142 RF full range speakers up front. Can anyone make a better suggestion please.

Hi there, I want to run a 1000 watt true rms front stage (Mids and Highs). I have a Rockford Fosgate T1000-4, T600-4, and T400-4. I only plan to use the T1000-4 for this build and the others only if needed. Please give me suggestions for high quality mids/highs that can be wired into multiple 2ohm loads to match each channel on my amp. Another option is to suggest mids/highs that can be wired into 1ohm loads and I can match inline resistors to meet my 2ohm load requirement. Thanks.

Thats funny stuff

Nice amp!

Alt output if wire and battery can handle a surge at that amperage. I have a 320a alt with 300a fuses on my line between batts. But that is because of the wire capacity.

x2 but if you fuse remember to fuse based on rating of your wire and your alt.

x2

Why's that? Essentially, isn't that what a walled of car is? A box firing forward into the cabin, totally sealed off from the rear? because you are trying to pressurize a huge ass area with generally 2 12s or 2 15s, which is pretty hard to do, now if there was a loading wall where the rear seats were, it wouldnt be an issue firing forward sounds better, because of less rattle, but you need something to load off of, i tested this today, and yes, while it sounded cleaner, less rattle, it wasnt as loud as firing off the driver side and sub facing the drivers side... I had my T2's firing in the cabin walled off and I liked it but it is WAY louder with my new box...if you did something like Thor though you will have different results...

Thats insane!

I got all of my stuff there Not the cheapest location for fiberglass mat or cloth but works fine.

You are right that you dont have to, but If you plan on running a lot of power I recommend connecting batteries in parallel. Seriously, if you are going big, just do it right the first time. I agree if everything is close together. Like that back portion after the Duralast. Also dont cheap out, buy some nice welding cable or power wire 1/0. Dont worry about making a knot with the wire. www.weldingsupply.com <-- good prices Agreed, My amp grounds to my rear battery are no longer than 24 inches. Keep that in mind as well. I run Monster Cable 400series 1/0. Not as flexible as other brands but it is all copper. As Kian was saying flexibility isnt always the goal of buying wire.

You are right that you dont have to, but If you plan on running a lot of power I recommend connecting batteries in parallel. Seriously, if you are going big, just do it right the first time.

thanks so much! Don't forget fuse after first battery, another before the second battery, then one on each positive from the rear battery before the amps. Grounding to batteries is actually the most reliable source. Be sure all crimps/solders are perfect.

Very nice, I will take 6 please

that overlay is pretty cool

Thanks everyone. As for the Yellow top I will keep it until more money comes around lol...spent a small fortune on my alt, amps, and batts.

That's what I like to hear! Thanks!