IBleedMusick

Zapco C2K.2.0x was my first amp ever even before I had a car and I used it recently in a temp system then retired it to my bedroom, then brought it out of retirement to power the L7's in my Tahoe and now it is back in retirement . A little banged up but still plays like knew gotta love Zapco, I love this damn amp so many memories.

Happy Birthday guys

^^^This, strupe makes a point round here most of the installs we do the customer is actually against deadening anything for some damn reason these fools think that the more your trunk rattles the louder your system is . What can you do, I try to educate those who are willing to listen but most just want to hear a rattling mess and put their phones on the trunk and watch em dance around. I feel more sorry for that beautiful work of art (69 mustang) that he would show it no justice and down disrespect it like that shame on him.

No Offers on these?

That price is great! Thanks! I have heard the L7's in a bandpass in another truck and I still didn't like the sound.

Bro you're not crying over the truck you are crying over what you turned that truck into I mean damn you accomplished something huge that tbss was a beast and I am sure you have something brewing for the caddy but I feel you on being sad about losing a whip you invested so much time and heart into. Good luck with your next build.

Damn that sucks but atleast you got it sold to a member here. I know you have a lot of shit going on but any plans for a build in the near future?

Well if notes won't work and talking won't work then intimidation worked when I had roommates you would think ppl have home training but some just need to be checked on their shit sometimes. That's why I moved in by my damn self just me and my dog and his ass is house broken so no cleaning up after no one.

Nice build on the car I like the drawer for the amp system is clean how does the car sound. The tractor is cool. Welcome to SMD

Cooool Jr. Bacon Cheeseburgers ftmfw

Why .5 ohm? The amp does 1200w rms at 1 ohm on 12v and the subs are what 750w rms each why stress the amp out like that and sayhuh? is right if you plan on stressing it the least you could do is feed it right H/O alt and atleast 2 batts in the back I would go XS. You cut corners you're going to fry that equipment in a heartbeat. Edit: Didn't realize they were d2 subs so retract my original question it now makes sense why you want to run at .5 but I wonder what that amp does a 2 ohms ever thought about that.

Soo if I had a choice between SoundQuest 1/0 or Cadence 1/0, both being OFC, which should I go for? It's not as bad as people are making it out to be better than Cadence IMO. I can't say it isn't true OFC because I have never run their power wire but I know it won't be true 0 gauge but looking at Darvex.com SoundQuest is $3.99 a foot and Stinger is $4.59 a foot spend the extra $.60 and get yourself some really good wire at a good rate. Stinger is no joke, I only use SoundQuest on smaller builds anything under 1000w IMO. I am running SoundQuest RCA's now and I don't have any issues it won't hold up like my Stinger RCA's but it gets the job done with no noise. Yea well I am definitely not in a place to be buying $5/foot wire right now since I need a new alt now. I'm going to get the Stinger stuff for my Big 3 but probably something more affordable when I'm buying 30'+. I can respect that but if you are looking for affordable 0 gauge I would look in the for sale section on here you can usually find some pretty good deals but don't skimp on that wire the difference can keep your car from going make sure you know what you're getting into when you mess with the cheaper stuff. BTW I took a look at DBelectric the site is DBelectrical.com and the alts are priced nicely you should take a look.

I got a pretty good price from Excessive Amperage and not to thread jack but how do you get in touch with Mike Singer for a quote on his alts?

Soo if I had a choice between SoundQuest 1/0 or Cadence 1/0, both being OFC, which should I go for? It's not as bad as people are making it out to be better than Cadence IMO. I can't say it isn't true OFC because I have never run their power wire but I know it won't be true 0 gauge but looking at Darvex.com SoundQuest is $3.99 a foot and Stinger is $4.59 a foot spend the extra $.60 and get yourself some really good wire at a good rate. Stinger is no joke, I only use SoundQuest on smaller builds anything under 1000w IMO. I am running SoundQuest RCA's now and I don't have any issues it won't hold up like my Stinger RCA's but it gets the job done with no noise.

Yeah I hit up fixmyspeaker.com waiting for a quote for raw parts and a quote to see how much for them to repair I will weigh my pros and cons and decide. I thought about going with the CVR's but in the end has to be something that compares to two L7's and that would be the CVX so I need to find those mofo's. Fixed LMAO at your edit but to respond to 99fullsize I am running Kicker in the truck for a reason believe me I would love to run Sundown DC DD Skar etc but this started as a Kicker build and I must finish as such reason being is because Kicker is the most popular brand at the shop and in the area. Most of the guys that have it sound like ish so I want to do this to show them how it should sound and maybe gain some new clientele in the process. I have to give them what they want to show them what they could have dudes round here ain't trying to hear about anything but Kicker so thats that. Now on a personal note there is something big in the works for the Civic with one of those brands I mentioned before but for now I need to concentrate on the Kicker system in the truck. Anyone else with ideas?Unless they give you free shipping. Just go new. Plus there is less chance of something happening in the mail. I did the discount "deal" And wish I didnt a few years back. I realized that after I got them that I paid after shipping and a insurance I had to buy in order for them to ship em. That I paid almost 150 more. I thought the same thing I'm glad you confirmed my suspicion for me damn thank God for SMD because I wouldn't have even calculated all of that in the long run. I had the L7's I didn't like the sound I have the CVX's now but the coils on both are bad so I am looking to replace the coils or get new CVX's. The L7's were a good sound but just not what I was looking for in the end but damn that' cheap as hell but I did find the CVX's on eBay from AudioSavings I may take that route and I would be giving a member of the SMD family some business at the same time. There is a lot of decisions to make.

Fixed LMAO at your edit but to respond to 99fullsize I am running Kicker in the truck for a reason believe me I would love to run Sundown DC DD Skar etc but this started as a Kicker build and I must finish as such reason being is because Kicker is the most popular brand at the shop and in the area. Most of the guys that have it sound like ish so I want to do this to show them how it should sound and maybe gain some new clientele in the process. I have to give them what they want to show them what they could have dudes round here ain't trying to hear about anything but Kicker so thats that. Now on a personal note there is something big in the works for the Civic with one of those brands I mentioned before but for now I need to concentrate on the Kicker system in the truck. Anyone else with ideas?

$500 is a tight budget but I would go with what Freshman said spend a little more and get a lot more in the long run. The DC's will do work in the right box and they sound great Kicker is way out of your price range and if I am not mistaken the L5's are discontinued so you can't buy new unless you get lucky. L3's suck in my opinion and the L7's are over your limit. If you like Kicker and you want to run with it than I would suggest 2 of the Kicker CVR's here...CVR's and the Hifonics Brutus here...Amp. You are looking at about $460 for the subs and amp and then you will need wiring and materials to build a box if done right you could look to spend another $100 on these items but in the interest of money a lot of other brands will get the job done for a better price.

As some of you may know I have a 98 Tahoe that I am building right now that came with two 15" Kicker L7's when I bought the truck after listening to it more and more I just didn't like the way it sounded so I sold the L7's and I decided to pull out the CVX's from my 89 Crown Vic that is sitting on bricks. Unfortunately after checking them out there is a bad coil on each of them so I need to have them repaired. I contacted Kicker and they said they don't repair but offer a discount program and I can get them new for $215 each, however I can buy them brand new from online for $270 or local for $285 each so that deal is not completely worth especially considering I have to ship the old ones first. So here's my question...What should I do? Should I buy new, get the repaired (if so how and where) or what?

Figured the song was about subs but I just can't fudge with Ace Hood he annoys the hell out of me.

I was interested to see it happen though I mean that much power in a car that size OMG got a friend with one of those and that bish is small you can barely get a basketball in a trunk let alone the electricals to run 18k daily...LMFAO but everyone has a dream some people have really big eyes and don't know any better others have friends with inventive imaginations you should have known better than to comment once he said the words 170 and first system. Even if money isn't an option that dream in that car with a friend doing it is highly unlikely.

Thats actually a really good idea I didn't think about that.

Yeah AT&T dsl doesn't look like it would work for me and I will look into those other two you mentioned thanks a lot

As stated in the title I am looking for a new internet service provider and I am not sure what route to take. I use to have Comcast Extreme 50 which my company paid for but they have switched providers and slowed the connection for those of us that work from home. They are now using a company called H Control and the connection is horrible I can't even play COD while my gf is watching Netflix anymore. Unfortunately this is the connection I must use for work so I need to find something else to use for my personal needs, it has to be something that I will not need wiring ran for and needs to be fast enough to support gaming, downloading and online streaming without me lagging on COD. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. BTW I live in Homestead, Florida

Thank you

Congrats man