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CleanSierra

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Everything posted by CleanSierra

  1. So don't take this the wrong way but you need to stop and start over. You obviously want to run a ton of subs, which is cool, it's impressive looking. Its also good because it dissipates great over more subs, more voice coils. Here are the problems: 1) Your port area and airspace keep jumping all over the place. You started at 198" and 17 cubes. Next was LESS port at 164.5" and 13.6 cubes. Most recent design has 276" of port and 16 cubes. You can't just guess at this and expect results. The latest option, btw, is the best 2)You're wanting to run a 3500(which actually does 3800@1 ohm) @ .5 ohms to two subs. These suns have an RMS of 1250W. You are thinking it's a good idea to have them at double their rated power? 3) You're asking for input on your sketch, yet are unwilling to accept the good advice you're given when it is. You want to know if your box looks proper just the sketch, the bracing, the spacing of the holes on the baffle. A design VERY MUCH matters about the numbers, don't tell us not to worry about the mathematics, it's all about the mathematics. I think you need to start smaller and simpler until you understand things like port area and airspace and how the two are equally important. I mean no disrespect, I really do not. I hope to see this build take off and be badass. I don't want you quitting the game because of a bad outcome from the first MAJOR project undertaking.
  2. From what you've described, in the range of 32Hz would work fine fine for you. P.S.If you need any help, PM me. I'm going to bed and won' be able to answer any questions right now
  3. I'd probably throw more port at it too, even more than 70". Tuned in the 20s, I would think 70" would be just fine(from what I come up with in my calculator for minimum desired vent).
  4. No, I don't think the window brace is needed. I could probably throw something together for you. Do you have 48" of width that can be used? If so, I've already got it designed from when you made your original post Edit-Well, from when I posted in the thread anyway. So basically for the last hour I've had something on my computer.
  5. Well that is just plain weird. Did your buddy give Ryan constraints as far as max depth, height, or width? If limiting factors were present, he may have just done the best he could with what he had to work with. There is another possibility that the sub is so NEW and no specs were available at the time he designed the box. I only noticed JUST today, that Sundown has a screenshot of T/S specs. They weren't on the website until recently, like within the last few days-I check often. So me personally, I'd up the port area another 20" and see what that does. I'd double baffle for sure. I would ditch the idea of doing 45s, they are not needed.
  6. So I want to get something kind of clear before I guess or assume: Was the RAM Designs box for the T1 or the Sundown?
  7. Btw, I'd run more port than you have planned for that sub. Like in the 70" range. That would require you to make the box wider, like 8" wider with another 1" width on port. Double baffle as well, without question.
  8. Hey not to be negative Sky, but I've been waiting for threads to start popping up where people are unhappy with the X series. I personally think it's a capable, badass sub in the RIGHT enclosure. Do your know the details of why your buddy wasn't happy with his? I've been telling guys to feed these damn things a lot of port and a decent amount of airspace, but they aren't choosing to do that. This is why I believe guys will be unhappy, because they are cheating the sub from what it needs to perform WELL. Sorry for the rant dude, it's just upsetting that someone drops $300+ and doesn't build a good enclosure. I'm hoping enough word gets out and that guys start building appropriately. If you know the details of your friend's box he had this in, I'd be happy to know them.
  9. I agree with above^^^ You said you were tuned with a DD-1, but were nearly maxed out. It sounds contradictory to even talk about WHERE the gain pot is if you TRULY set it with a DD-1. Were your gains actually set with a DD-1 and if they were, have you messed with the settings since then without RE-tuning with a DD-1? On to the original topic, I too believe that when you hear that sound that you are going too far below the tuning of the box. That, or you have port noise. Without hearing the noise, I couldn't say which.
  10. ^^^Agree with the others. 300+ inches of port to start and 1.5" on all sides. Tuning in mid to low 30s. Those subs will do their job in a box without high 20s tuning. High 20s is silly to me if you plan on playing ANYTHING other than Decaf or chopped and screwed music.
  11. If you lose tuning because you lose airspace, start eliminating the number of subs from the plan. So instead of 8, drop down to 6. Don't sacrifice airspace OR port area, you'll regret it if you do.
  12. That sub needs lots'o'port to be happy. I have a feeling many guys are going to be unhappy with the X because they've shortchanged it. The sub needs airspace and more port than many subs to be happy. You are putting it at a disadvantage if you are unwilling to give it the proper air and port area. This isn't just my opinion, this is psychics of how a driver performs and what a driver NEEDS to perform at its best.
  13. You don't have enough port area for those subs, that's the first thing I would fix. Have you considered going with 4 15s for the fact that it will be simpler for building, cheaper, more straight forward? I realize 8 12s has a WOW factor, but how many big builds have you done so far? I'm not at ALL saying this negatively, but we all have a learning curve and have to kind of graduate to a build like the one you have planned. Like BigHoss said, you may have better luck saying off smaller. 4 15s would also require less amps, which in turn equals less wire, which means less aread to fail, or short, or blow a fuse.
  14. Rockford has the BLD. I've not personally ever had the need for an LOC because I've never wanted the restriction of a factory HU.
  15. Check amp settings as well as make sure Xovers are set to THROUGH.
  16. Steve, I just got my OM-1s (3 of them) from you like what, 2 weeks ago? Do you know which version I have? Edit-Cool upgrade by the way, very cool.
  17. Strangeduck is right on this, PLUS I learned something today. Xmax is taken into effect as well as the other obvious things like motor width and depth and effective Sd
  18. I agree Strangeduck, I'm confused and I'm in for answers. It does seem odd though. That X looks like it would displace a lot of volume.
  19. The basket on the X is completely different, is it not? I've not seen the basket on the new V4, but the X basket is far different and bulkier than the Z basket I'm aware of
  20. I'd do a 3" wide port, get that port area up into the 40s. Extend the port to around 28-32" long(depending on where you want tuning) and for God's sake, double baffle the thing. Side note. I doubt the displacement is only .10-.12 cubes. My RE SRx was a cheap, stamped basket and displaced .14. That sub only had a mounting depth of 6.5". The Sundown X12 is easily 2"(probably more)deeper, plus the basket is bulky and cast and the motor is deep and wide as well. I'd guess at least .24 cubed for one X12. But .30 is definitely not out of the question, it could easily displace that much volume.
  21. I'm sure he's referring to when you throw double the rated power on it, hence the reason for shrinking the enclosure.
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