CleanSierra

Hey not to be negative Sky, but I've been waiting for threads to start popping up where people are unhappy with the X series. I personally think it's a capable, badass sub in the RIGHT enclosure. Do your know the details of why your buddy wasn't happy with his? I've been telling guys to feed these damn things a lot of port and a decent amount of airspace, but they aren't choosing to do that. This is why I believe guys will be unhappy, because they are cheating the sub from what it needs to perform WELL. Sorry for the rant dude, it's just upsetting that someone drops $300+ and doesn't build a good enclosure. I'm hoping enough word gets out and that guys start building appropriately. If you know the details of your friend's box he had this in, I'd be happy to know them.

They ship USPS, which should be flat rate to ALL states if my memory serves right. I'm currently running their wire. It's great wire, it is flexible, large and generally sexy.

I agree with above^^^ You said you were tuned with a DD-1, but were nearly maxed out. It sounds contradictory to even talk about WHERE the gain pot is if you TRULY set it with a DD-1. Were your gains actually set with a DD-1 and if they were, have you messed with the settings since then without RE-tuning with a DD-1? On to the original topic, I too believe that when you hear that sound that you are going too far below the tuning of the box. That, or you have port noise. Without hearing the noise, I couldn't say which.

^^^Agree with the others. 300+ inches of port to start and 1.5" on all sides. Tuning in mid to low 30s. Those subs will do their job in a box without high 20s tuning. High 20s is silly to me if you plan on playing ANYTHING other than Decaf or chopped and screwed music.

If you lose tuning because you lose airspace, start eliminating the number of subs from the plan. So instead of 8, drop down to 6. Don't sacrifice airspace OR port area, you'll regret it if you do.

That sub needs lots'o'port to be happy. I have a feeling many guys are going to be unhappy with the X because they've shortchanged it. The sub needs airspace and more port than many subs to be happy. You are putting it at a disadvantage if you are unwilling to give it the proper air and port area. This isn't just my opinion, this is psychics of how a driver performs and what a driver NEEDS to perform at its best.

You don't have enough port area for those subs, that's the first thing I would fix. Have you considered going with 4 15s for the fact that it will be simpler for building, cheaper, more straight forward? I realize 8 12s has a WOW factor, but how many big builds have you done so far? I'm not at ALL saying this negatively, but we all have a learning curve and have to kind of graduate to a build like the one you have planned. Like BigHoss said, you may have better luck saying off smaller. 4 15s would also require less amps, which in turn equals less wire, which means less aread to fail, or short, or blow a fuse.

Rockford has the BLD. I've not personally ever had the need for an LOC because I've never wanted the restriction of a factory HU.

Check amp settings as well as make sure Xovers are set to THROUGH.

I wonder if his LOC is bad?

Tuning in for construction and destruction

Steve, I just got my OM-1s (3 of them) from you like what, 2 weeks ago? Do you know which version I have? Edit-Cool upgrade by the way, very cool.

Strangeduck is right on this, PLUS I learned something today. Xmax is taken into effect as well as the other obvious things like motor width and depth and effective Sd

I agree Strangeduck, I'm confused and I'm in for answers. It does seem odd though. That X looks like it would displace a lot of volume.

Are you confusing displacement with Vas?

Rock on, still surprises me with how monstrous it looks

The basket on the X is completely different, is it not? I've not seen the basket on the new V4, but the X basket is far different and bulkier than the Z basket I'm aware of

I'd do a 3" wide port, get that port area up into the 40s. Extend the port to around 28-32" long(depending on where you want tuning) and for God's sake, double baffle the thing. Side note. I doubt the displacement is only .10-.12 cubes. My RE SRx was a cheap, stamped basket and displaced .14. That sub only had a mounting depth of 6.5". The Sundown X12 is easily 2"(probably more)deeper, plus the basket is bulky and cast and the motor is deep and wide as well. I'd guess at least .24 cubed for one X12. But .30 is definitely not out of the question, it could easily displace that much volume.

I'm sure he's referring to when you throw double the rated power on it, hence the reason for shrinking the enclosure.

Local guy(and fellow forum member)has one on around 3K and I'm unsure of how he set his gains, but I smell coil after a couple of songs. Be careful with the gain setting and keep your nose on top of it. Don't play hard on it when you have a cold, you won't want to miss something

They're Sundown, that equals MORE POWAAAAA. DC 9K In all seriousness, you HAVE the core area, if you can supply the electrical, go with a Sundown SAZ 4500. On 14V, it will make right near the number you need for all 8 subs at 1 ohm.

Happy 21st man. I just had my birthday on the 29th. Enjoy yourself dude

wouldnt the amp always stay on? Haha, yes. This is just for diagnosis purposes to check and rule out if you have possibly a shorted out turn on lead. You wouldn't run your system with a jumper from the B+ to the remote in.

If you have no signal going to remote turn on for the amp, taking a jumper wire from the B+ to the remote in on the amp.

Kyle might need to start sweating haha!