jmander11

If your volts were dropping to like 10 volts on bass from the crap battery, and if the new one puts you up to 13/14 volts on bass then you may notice a slight/minor difference depending on the amp.

Nvm ^ beat me to it while I was getting a drink on posting screen

Well if it's legit 1/0 that should be fine... but if there's already a space where the wires ran then it couldn't hurt to run another one along it.

Do you have a second battery? With my second battery I see around 13.5ish on full tilt at idle

More info on current subs/amps? 1000 rms can be ran off a stock alternator...

I've read that is what you are supposed to do... but what happens if you don't? It's a thicker wire so it should work fine shouldn't it?

I have that same amp with an extra battery in the back... That thing must pull at lot of current at .5 ohms.. How long have you had it running at .5 on stock electrical? Cranking amps of batteries don't equal blowing the starter lol.. It's just a measure of current the battery can put out over 30 seconds I believe. 1600 rms plus a 4 channel amp on a 95 amp alternator will be on the tough side for the alternator... Don't idle a lot while bumping and you'll be golden. I have my Hifonics Brutus 2400.1D @ 2 ohms for 1700 rms for the time being and voltage drop to mid 13s unless idling lots. I wouldn't recommend trying it without some sort of second battery though. Good luck Edit: Running that 1700 rms on my 90 amp stock alternator

4 gauge would be fine if that's all you have (especially just for stock), however it's probably worth it just to do it right with 0 gauge the first time.

Formattin for ipods is different than usbs. Computers are capable of reading ntfs, as the xbox should. Format it Fat32, try 100 songs per folder and play with that till you find a number that works. Just looks like file limit.. try genre seperating...

Good news (:

I've read a lot of horror stories on that site :/ Did you buy that amp elsewhere and post that site for specs? Cause that's a lotta $ for that lol

CEA rated means 4 ohm load on 14.4 volts @ 1% THD. So no clippin on 4 ohms. Try and use a DD-1 to set your gains or an o-scope and you won't have a problem. If you have voltage drop you won't do rated either though. If it's an Alpine M-1000 then that's a great amp, however under clipping or voltage drop it heats up FAST... I pounded my Alpine M-1000 for six months and had it runnin for hours upon hours almost every night all summer lol, so they definetly last.

Quote from Fi Audio... NOTE: You have chosen both P Chamfer and Cooling. The Cooling package includes the P Chamfer so please uncheck the P Chamfer option and click the Update button They recommend just the P Chamfer for SPL, and the cooling for daily.

Hifonics Brutus BRZ2400D $300: http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-Brz2400-1d-Certified-Monoblock-Efficiency/dp/B003SWIKLI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1320482232&sr=8-2 Amp has worked great for me so far. Would be perfect for those subs with the cooling options... Idk about Amazon, but from the same seller (audiosavings) on Ebay I got a 30 day return along with 1 year warranty, and the shipping took 3 days with the cheap DHL air shipping.