jmander11

If your volts were dropping to like 10 volts on bass from the crap battery, and if the new one puts you up to 13/14 volts on bass then you may notice a slight/minor difference depending on the amp.

Nvm ^ beat me to it while I was getting a drink on posting screen

Well if it's legit 1/0 that should be fine... but if there's already a space where the wires ran then it couldn't hurt to run another one along it.

Do you have a second battery? With my second battery I see around 13.5ish on full tilt at idle

More info on current subs/amps? 1000 rms can be ran off a stock alternator...

I've read that is what you are supposed to do... but what happens if you don't? It's a thicker wire so it should work fine shouldn't it?

I have that same amp with an extra battery in the back... That thing must pull at lot of current at .5 ohms.. How long have you had it running at .5 on stock electrical? Cranking amps of batteries don't equal blowing the starter lol.. It's just a measure of current the battery can put out over 30 seconds I believe. 1600 rms plus a 4 channel amp on a 95 amp alternator will be on the tough side for the alternator... Don't idle a lot while bumping and you'll be golden. I have my Hifonics Brutus 2400.1D @ 2 ohms for 1700 rms for the time being and voltage drop to mid 13s unless idling lots. I wouldn't recommend trying it without some sort of second battery though. Good luck Edit: Running that 1700 rms on my 90 amp stock alternator

4 gauge would be fine if that's all you have (especially just for stock), however it's probably worth it just to do it right with 0 gauge the first time.

Formattin for ipods is different than usbs. Computers are capable of reading ntfs, as the xbox should. Format it Fat32, try 100 songs per folder and play with that till you find a number that works. Just looks like file limit.. try genre seperating...

Good news (:

I've read a lot of horror stories on that site :/ Did you buy that amp elsewhere and post that site for specs? Cause that's a lotta $ for that lol

CEA rated means 4 ohm load on 14.4 volts @ 1% THD. So no clippin on 4 ohms. Try and use a DD-1 to set your gains or an o-scope and you won't have a problem. If you have voltage drop you won't do rated either though. If it's an Alpine M-1000 then that's a great amp, however under clipping or voltage drop it heats up FAST... I pounded my Alpine M-1000 for six months and had it runnin for hours upon hours almost every night all summer lol, so they definetly last.

Quote from Fi Audio... NOTE: You have chosen both P Chamfer and Cooling. The Cooling package includes the P Chamfer so please uncheck the P Chamfer option and click the Update button They recommend just the P Chamfer for SPL, and the cooling for daily.

Hifonics Brutus BRZ2400D $300: http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-Brz2400-1d-Certified-Monoblock-Efficiency/dp/B003SWIKLI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1320482232&sr=8-2 Amp has worked great for me so far. Would be perfect for those subs with the cooling options... Idk about Amazon, but from the same seller (audiosavings) on Ebay I got a 30 day return along with 1 year warranty, and the shipping took 3 days with the cheap DHL air shipping.

Okay... So I've just installed my BRZ2400D. I put top post terminals, idk what you call them but they have 1 bolt to screw tight to the battery post, along with 4 more bolts to squeeze wire together or put lugs. So I only got 25' of my 50' of 0 Gauge as of yet, (So no big 3) and FINALLY figured out where to run the wire... Had to remove the wheel well to wire it through, all existing holes only held 4 gauge... So.. I wired it all up with that 0 gauge. In the rear there is one 0 gauge ground, and 2/3 4 gauge grounds from before, and just the 8 gauge ground in the front. (Damn those stiff wires ) Before: With my Alpine M-1000 at rest my battery was at 14.2 volts in the front, and up to 14 volts after 30 seconds in the rear. On music the front battery voltage never dipped below 13.9 volts (Only hit that occasionally). On music the rear battery would dip down to 12.3 volts minimum. On music the amp would hit 11-12 volts a lot. Now: With the BRZ2400D wired to 2 ohm for 1700 RMS. Resting in the front is 14.2/.3 and 14.2 in the back. On music it generally stays around 14 volts in the front, but drops down to 13.8 occasionally. On the rear battery it dipped down to 13.6/.7 minimum on music, and popped right back up to 14.2 after music dies down. On music the amp itself dipped down to 13.5 volts minimum (very rarely though, more around 13.6-13.8 volts). On music I've gone from 12.3 volts minimum on the rear battery and 11 on the amp, to 13.6 minimum on the rear battery and 13.5 minimum on the amp. My voltage decreased by .1 on the front battery. Now my rear battery had no power to it since Wednesday, and the voltage was down to 12-12.3 from playing my speakers on it. So when I hooked up the front to the back battery I wouldn't have had full charge. What I'm wondering is how is my voltage increased so much? Does this just mean the 4 gauge wasn't giving the rear battery enough power, or what's the deal?

Yah I know how to wire it to 1 ohm . The Qs are 1500 RMS each, plus 200-500 RMS on top of that with cooling and I have only 2400 RMS to work with. The 2 12" Qs are $814 shipped and the BTL 18" is $640 shipped, and both options require about the same size box?

My seats do not fold down, however I leave the hatch (if you can call it that).. in the middle of the seats down... It is around 5 inches wide by a foot high so it should be enough. I only have this one amp to work with, and I can't afford another amp AND 2 subs.

Update: Just got my BRZ2400.1D in the mail, all that's left to do to hook it up is run the new 0/1 gauge wire... It will be hooked up to my current PA 15" @ 2 ohms with an output of 1700 RMS. With 2400 RMS at my disposal at 1 ohm i will pretty much have to go with the Fi BTl N2 18" Dual 2 ohm. So... how does this sub perform in 4.5 to 5 cubes after displacement, does anyone know? I was also wondering what would be the optimal tuning frequency, 30-32 Hz?

Hi, if you are exactly looking for amplifier between these what you mention in your post. But as per the performance i would suggest you hifonics 1606. Well I am about to order this amp I think. I cant really find anything else. Has anyone had any experience with Hifonics and know if they are good and reliable. BXI1606D - Car Audio/Stereo - Car Audio/Stereo Accessories - Hifonics Car Audio - Hifonics Car Audio BXI1606D "Brutus" MonoBlock Amplifier 1600 Watts RMS I will be hooking it up to 2 8" Assassins which are 250w RMS and I will be wiring it for 4 ohms.. amp is 550 x 1 @ 4 ohms so about 275 to each sub....good? That amp will be good for those subs, but if you get different subs you could hook them up at 1 or 2 ohms for more output from that amp.

Hi, if you are exactly looking for amplifier between these what you mention in your post. But as per the performance i would suggest you hifonics 1606. Well I am about to order this amp I think. I cant really find anything else. Has anyone had any experience with Hifonics and know if they are good and reliable. BXI1606D - Car Audio/Stereo - Car Audio/Stereo Accessories - Hifonics Car Audio - Hifonics Car Audio BXI1606D "Brutus" MonoBlock Amplifier 1600 Watts RMS I will be hooking it up to 2 8" Assassins which are 250w RMS and I will be wiring it for 4 ohms.. amp is 550 x 1 @ 4 ohms so about 275 to each sub....good? That amp will be good for those subs, but if you get different subs you could hook them up at 1 or 2 ohms for more output from that amp.

What's so much worse about acid batterties? Ok thanks for the help, I'll just do it when I get the wire. Thanks for the tip about searching smd... that should help

First off, I've tried searching... But this forum doesn't allow the words "big" or "3" Basically I've ordered a BRZ2400D to replace my Alpine M1000. It will be hooked up @ 2 ohms so it will only be 1700 RMS. My electrical atm is pretty hard done by. I have a second battery in the back and voltage drop around 12.5 volts on it. I've ordered 50' of 0 gauge so I'll have plenty of wire. I was just wondering if I should go ahead and do it at the same time I install my amp. I was also thinking of adding another battery? I'm gonna get a HO alternator around christmas time, but I need to know if doing the Big 3 upgrade beforehand will help at all? I'll be rewiring to 1 ohm on the amp with a new sub after christmas, so the stock alternator is not an option at that point.

That's what I'm trying to figure out. What's the best quality amp for the best price. I'm looking at just the Audiopipe and Soundstream right now... Anymore decent amps for a budget price?

Yeah the cost and time to get there would outweigh the shipping costs. I'm closeish but it's still several hours to drive there.