Joe X

Take a look at their suggestion tuned to 34Hz you need to look no further: 4.5ft3 2(4” ports x 10 ¾” long) (34Hz) F3=37Hz 1000w Here an idea of how it can be implemented: So, here are some specific dimensions you can build (4.5 cubic feet gross) : Enclosure Specifications: Vgross = 4.5 ft^3 (per chamber) Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 17.5 in External Width = 51.5 in External Depth = 22 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 51 1/2 x 17 1/2 Left & Right Sides + Center Divider (3 parts) = 19 3/4 x 16 Top & Bottom = 51 1/2 x 19 3/4 Port Quantity and Dimensions (per chamber): Number of Ports = 2 Aero Port Diameter = 4 Aero Port Length = 10 3/4 This will work and is easy to build.

By doing that you have made the port longer and therefore lowered your tuning. I would need to know the driver displacement for those subs.. to do something.

Are these you EXTERNAL dimensions?? 54W 21.5D 17.5H If so here is a design suggestion for a box with a center divider and tuned to 36 Hz, sub displacement is assumed to be 0.23 cuft (same layout as yours): Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 36,067 Hz Vb = 3,406 ft^3 (per chamber) Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted External Height = 17,5 in External Width = 54 in External Depth = 21,5 in Port Width = 3 1/8 in (one port per chamber) Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 54 x 17 1/2 Left & Right Sides + Center Divider (3 parts) = 20 x 16 Top & Bottom = 54 x 20 L Ports Internal Assembly Parts (2 of each) : Front to Back = 16 7/8 x 16 Extension = 1 1/2 x 16

The SDC2.5 are very different to the HDC3s still 33-35 would have been probably more like it, for the HDC3 35-38 will sound much louder. For a 33 tuning just change this: L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 17 3/4 x 15 1/2 For higher tuning a redesign is needed because of port area per cubic feet goes below recommendation.

4-4.5 cubic feet per sub for the 15"s and 5-6 cubic feet per sub for the 18"s is Audioque suggestion, if seriously overdriving somewhat lesser volumes are recommended.

Ok so the AQ SDC2.5 work best on 4-4.5 cuft per sub and 14-15 sqin/cuft so you are low, here is a design suggestion on your space: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32,351 Hz Vb = 7,67 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 17 in External Width = 38 in External Depth = 30 in Port Width = 6 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 31 1/4 x 15 1/2 Front Internal = 30 1/2 x 15 1/2 Back = 38 x 15 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 28 1/2 x 15 1/2 Side 2 = 27 3/4 x 15 1/2 Top & Bottom = 38 x 30 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 19 1/2 x 15 1/2 For your type of vehicle is recommended subs/ports in the same face front or rear firing so both should be tried. Here is an assembly guide (generic dimensions):

I wouldn't mind a assembly guide! I'm really new to box building! Thanks man! Updated my original post with the assembly guide, let me know any questions.

Do you have any maximum dimensions for the box?

Ok so, here is a design suggestion based closely on Kicker's spec for this subwoofer: 10cuft@35Hz port up sub up configuration will work well and is very easy to build: DIMENSIONS ARE SPECIFIED AS SEEN FROM THE TOP!! Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35,00 Hz Vb = 10 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 19 in External Width = 39 in External Depth = 32,75 in Port Width = 8 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 39 x 19 Left & Right Sides = 30 1/2 x 17 1/2 Top & Bottom = 39 x 30 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 15 1/2 x 17 1/2 Bracing displacement considered are two wood rods 2 inch diameter 17 1/2 tall for front to back bracing. Also double baffle has been considered. Driver displacement as specified by Kicker is = 239.8 cubic inches. Let me know if you need to see an assembly guide. Edit: Just a quick idea of how things go:

DC Audio L3 10" 1 cuft ported 600WRMS a piece. Obviously it depends on what you want them for.

This is the DC Audio spec for your sub: http://www.dcsoundlab.com/level2.html Here is a design suggestion based on DC Audio spec and your tuning range and max dims: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35,025 Hz Vb = 1,309 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 15 in External Width = 22,5 in External Depth = 14 in Port Width = 1 1/2 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 20 1/4 x 13 1/2 Front Internal = 19 1/2 x 13 1/2 Back = 22 1/2 x 13 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 12 1/2 x 13 1/2 Side 2 = 11 3/4 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 22 1/2 x 14 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 11 x 13 1/2 Extension = 15 1/2 x 13 1/2 Here's an assembly guide: You can try it front firing or rear firing to see which you like best. Some people feel the double baffle is not necessary. If you don't want the extra effort I can take it away.

Vas belongs to the subwoofer, you use Vas for designing the box, I calculated it from the other parameters but better measure it. Also left you a link with 2 independent methods to measure Vas.

Any tuning in mind?

And in case you didn't read up there you are missing Vas. Calculated Vas for you but the best way is measure it, and the device suggested can't do it.

They used to list them, found them in two different loactions around the internet: XL 12" Mounting Depth 7" Mounting Hole Diameter 11" Motor Width 8.75" Weight 54lbs VC Diameter 3" Flat 8 layer Displacement .19³ ft Magnet Weight 50lbs Power Handling RMS/Peak 1500/3000 Impedance (Ohm) d.7, d1, d1.4, d2 Sd 494.00 cm² Fs 38.90Hz Qms 6.51 Qes .31 Qts .29 Xmax 26mm Sensitivity 90.73 Suggested Sealed N/A Suggested Ported 1.5³ ft Vas can be "calculated" by formulas and it gave me: 1.456 cu.ft If not here's how measure Vas (and the other parameters): http://sound.westhost.com/tsp.htm

They do give an enclosure suggestion (Vb) AND.. you can always measure the t/s!!

the f3 he is talking about it dependent on the enclosure, not the sub. At least depends on the sub, the enclosure and the cabin. Well at least the actual f3 that he would be getting.

There's no T/S parameters listed for the DC Audio XL.. I guess I wouldn't worry about that on any well designed 4th though.

Should look like this:

Seriously you need this designed? This drivers optimize according to RF at 1.6 cuft each so Vb = 3.2 cuft. Each driver has a displacement of 0.107 cuft so total displacement is = 0.214 cuft Enclosure Specifications: Vb = 3,3 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 17 in External Width = 36 in External Depth = 13,5 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 36 x 17 Left & Right Sides = 11 1/4 x 15 1/2 Top & Bottom = 36 x 11 1/4 The extra 0.1 cubic feet you can use for some crossbracing you may want to do (front to back). There is a double layer baffle which also acts like bracing.

Based on Kicker specification (checked to be as you list above) here is a design suggestion, the size of the port parts are included: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 39,807 Hz Vb = 2,5 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted External Height = 14,75 in External Width = 27,37 in External Depth = 16 in Port Width = 2 1/2 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 27 3/8 x 14 3/4 Left & Right Sides = 14 1/2 x 13 1/4 Top & Bottom = 27 3/8 x 14 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 12 x 13 1/4 Extension = 1/2 x 13 1/4

The kicker will work but for $350 maybe there is a catch.

Use MDF screws. You may like this: http://www.norbord.com/images/screws-MDF.pdf

Yes, if you can afford 0.75 in mor in depth I could modify the design to give you a double baffle which is a very good way to avoid resonance, if not you can consider some front to back crossbracing.

Ok ports should not be together check this out: