Joe X

I guess you are not factoring in displacements, check this suggestion, is not final or anything, just for you check, also this subs are recommended for up to 33Hz tuning, you barely have the space for them, port/subs front firing: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33.8 Hz Vb = 12.628 ft^3 External Height = 28 in External Width = 54 in External Depth = 22.25 in Port Width = 8 1/8 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 45 1/8 x 26 1/2 Front Internal = 43 5/8 x 26 1/2 Back = 54 x 26 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 20 3/4 x 26 1/2 Side 2 = 21 1/2 x 26 1/2 Top & Bottom = 54 x 22 1/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 12 5/8 x 26 1/2 Extension = 2 x 26 1/2

I would try for less deadly alternatives if feasible first, also what car are you placing this in?

Just gather some extra opinions as most dims will change, tuning is usually set higher with HDC3 subs but thay doesn't mean that will be best for you, regarding the materials, it all depends on how is cut so plan your cuts on paper since you already have a cutlist or maybe let the guys selling the material help.

So here is a suggestion: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 34.6 Hz Vb = 4.5 ft^3 External Height = 13 in External Width = 39.25 in External Depth = 29.25 in Port Width = 5 1/2 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 33 x 11 1/2 Front Internal = 31 1/2 x 11 1/2 Back = 39 1/4 x 11 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 27 3/4 x 11 1/2 Side 2 = 28 1/2 x 11 1/2 Top & Bottom = 39 1/4 x 29 1/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 21 1/4 x 11 1/2 This is how it assembles: Use this as is or use the Torres calculator and this to make your own design.

As before, the pic I left on the design post is only meant to help you understand how to assemble the box, the assembly style I used will be the easiest to build since the port does not need to be cut through the baffle, I edited the design post to add an alternative assembly style. As long as the sub and the port do not significantly obstruct each other in some way you are ok, you can place as many 45s as you deem necessary as long the total displacement of bracing is small. I'd rather call your attention at the tuning of the box, you may not have as much output as possible with a lower than recommended tuning, maybe ask around a bit about that.

You got it, I was wondering what amp are you going to use?

You shrink the box , you loose bass despite the tuning frequency being the same for all 3 boxes.

This a port turn wiith optimizations:

If you want to optimize you can round the inner corner at the port turn and add a 45 there to reduce turbulence. You can do low displacement crossbracing top to bottom and front to back, and add other 45s where you deem necessary. If you want to do some major bracing let me know to account for it. The picture you see is only there to help you understand how the parts assemble so doesn't show particular details nor actual dimensions. If you really think you need a more detailed model let me know.

Is not designed in I guess because there are many port styles and many methods to calculate, I include that extra info on my suggestions so people can just go and cut the parts. I can do it only on a limited number of port styles though.

Ok here is a quick suggestion 32Hz seems too low for that sub (35-38 is usually used): Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32 Hz Vb = 6.017 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 22 in External Width = 31.75 in External Depth = 26 in Port Width = 5 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 26 x 20 1/2 Front Internal = 24 1/2 x 20 1/2 Back = 31 3/4 x 20 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 24 1/2 x 20 1/2 Side 2 = 25 1/4 x 20 1/2 Top & Bottom = 31 3/4 x 26 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 19 1/2 x 20 1/2 Extension = 8 x 20 1/2 Kind of crazy to build fast like this. Let me know any quesions. EDIT: Here is an alternative assembly style for the box, full height/full length baffle: External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 39 1/4 x 17 Left & Right Sides = 15 3/4 x 15 1/2 Top & Bottom = 39 1/4 x 15 3/4

Inverted Oh ok, still too much port. What subs? What happens when there is too much port? That's why I'm building this, just to see what happens. Two Polk MM10" Will the subs bottom out? Blow? Only play highs? I have no idea. If you just want to do some tests why not using an aero port, yu can change sizes and lengths.

Ok here is a suggestion port up/sub forward: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32.026 Hz Vb = 3.494 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 22 in External Width = 42.5 in External Depth = 12 in Port Width = 5 1/2 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 42 1/2 x 22 Left & Right Sides = 9 3/4 x 20 1/2 Top & Bottom = 42 1/2 x 9 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Top to Bottom = 15 x 5 1/2 Extension = 9 1/2 x 5 1/2 The port width alone is not relevant, but the port area, to know what is the correct port area, divide your suggested port area (in cubic inches) by the net internal volume (in cubic feet) of the box, the result should be between 12-16 in most cases. Let me know any questions. Edit: Try the Torres box calculator if you want to explore options and make calculations easier.

You listed 43x33x22 as your external dimensions so you need to substract 1.5 inches to the thw witdh and height and 2.25 inches to the depth multiply the resulting dimensions an that is your gross internal volume, substract the driver and port displacements to get your net internal volume, divide by 4 and thats the number you are looking for.

The only volume that is relevat for box alignment is the net internal volume.

I mean The way the box was made you can't cut the box and open the port up some more, originally his port area was 19w 2.5h then he cut it to 4.25 in height. No if I'm correctly your supposed to have between 14 to 16 cubic ft of port depending on the cubic ft in the box, so let's say it's 6.4 per chamber so take 6.43 times 15= 96.75 per side . So total port are for this box needs to be 193.5 Then it if cut and open the port to 5.1 instead of 4.25 were it is now that puts me at 96.9 per side. Then I would cut the port down to watever it needs to be to get to 33 hz instead of 24. Yes it's two ports, sorry I didn't mention that You say per side, so there is two 4.25 by 19 ports? That would change a lot of things LOL... you just happened to miss you have two ports.... you are tuned to about 34Hz then, each sub get about 2.9 cubic feet. port area 1s 161 sqin.. and everything looks much better

Damn that's low , he lied and said it was 35hz. Can you tell me how cubes each sub gets and wat to cut the port down to tune it to 33 hz. 3.43 per sub and the length of the port is 7 in for a 33hz tune Wow y only 7 that seems to short, to cut from 22.5 all the way down to 7 I would ave thought maybe like 12 to 15 or something. Also don't dismiss that your port area is too low by a large margin, you will still have a faulty design even if you retune.

Damn that's low , he lied and said it was 35hz. Can you tell me how cubes each sub gets and wat to cut the port down to tune it to 33 hz. 3.43 per sub and the length of the port is 7 in for a 33hz tune

Changed to 28d and 23.5h..

Ok went to 30d (check the design post) with your tuning, if you have 4.5 in in front of the port then you are ok.

It gives 24Hz maybe 25Hz with bracing?

Really? You're saying they don't handle rated? I've never heard that about a Hifonics product. They probably take the 400 in a sealed box but wouldn't do it in a ported box. As far as the lows, I think my sub hits the lows just right. It doesn't make a lot of noise on the low lows, but I think that's what makes it a clean-sounding sub, unlike my brother-in-laws old XPlods, I can actually hear a musical note coming out of this sub, instead of just the same booming sound every time the sub gets a signal. I dunno. It sounds fine to me. I don't expect notes at 30Hz and 90Hz to hit as hard or sound as loud as notes at 40Hz or 70Hz. XPlods are junk..

I changed the design on the post above, now is on spec, needed to go to 22.5h but no more. OP you must have 4.5 inches of airpace in front of the port, if you don't I may have to do the box a little taller and reduce depth. Or a Slot facing up. Let me know.

Bass box pro has paid acces to a vehicle tranfer function database. I think I would only try that on a high end SQ setup though.

You will need a cabin transfer function dataset of your vehicle also if you want to have any level of accuracy on the final frequency response of your system.