Wicks

Mine came in tonight! ......although, sure enough one was lightly damaged. Voltage reads OK though. Looked like some of the packing peanuts shifted and reduced the padding on one side. Damage looks cosmetic. Any chance for functional damage...? ps....Those XP3000's are HEAVY! Holy crap...

Very nice! Love the dark look of those rims.

Noice! ...waiting for my XL12's......

Two XP3000's and a D375 for me!

Assuming that he HU is OK. Dis-connect your subs from the amp. Connect DMM (VAC) to the amp outputs where your subs were. Set amp gain to minimum (9V). Play a test tone and set the HU volume to ~3/4. Slowly raise the amp gain up and you should see the speaker output voltage rise. With no load on the amp, you should be able to see full rail voltage from the amp which should be in the realm of 48V as you previously stated since its a 2400W amp. If you are still stuck at 18V then either the amp's power supply isn't working and giving you full rail voltage or your HU isn't driving the amp as it should. Since you have a DMM and you're testing this, test the output from the HU to verify. That should tell you who's at fault without needing your electrical system upgraded.

Did you verify that your head unit is hitting that 2V?

Cool. Include the remote and guarantee that it works fine and I'll take it. Payment terms? Paypal? I'll need it shipped to 80134. Sending a PM as well.

Use your DMM on your rca's and verify the preout 2V from the HU.

0.2v is the max setting on the gain so you're going backwards. Makes sense that the voltage is going down. That number refers to the output voltage of your preouts.

Interested. Any pics of it powered up and working? Did you find the remote?

You may have answered it: "The only adjust that seemed to help was the phase shift which I set it to reverse." Are you sure the subs aren't wired out of phase and cancelling each other?

Yep, what I figured...too narrow. Got it, I'd rather go for a single simple port but I'm aiming at porting up through the middle of the rear deck. With that goal and the required length of the port, it works nice to split two ports across the top of the box. Also makes it symetrical for each sub, which I'm hoping will help against different loading conditions for one of the subs if I used only one port opening on one side of the box... I think I've got my game plan, thank you Sir!

High pitch noise and a tap induced crackle sounds like a broken/cracked solder joint in the signal path. Pull the cover and look for a bad solder joint at the rca's and through the remaining signal path. Make sure all your grounds are solid.

Bump. Two main questions at the moment: Would a slot port that is 34.5" x ~1.25" be too narrow and cause noise? Gives the proper port area, but I'm pretty sure its not wide enough? Torres Calculator: If I have two seperate square ports, do I add one of the width measurements together and keep the length the same so it calculates as one big port? Example: I want two seperate ports that are 3"H x 10"W x 20"L. Do you enter them in Torres as: 6"H x 10"W x 20"L?

Strapping amps is similar to bridging a 2-channel amp. One "side" uses the positive voltage rail and the other "side" uses the negative voltage rail in conjunction for a larger voltage swing. Using two different rated amps will mean you're using a different voltages (positive / negative) across the speaker. I would not suggest this...

Cool, thx for the advice. So I drew up the design in Visio to see what it might look like before building and the 6" ports take up a lot of room and would be a bit complex trying to secure them properly in the box. Given that I'd really like to incorporate some plexi on the rear wall to show the motors, the ports almost conceal the entire sub. If this was strictly for SPL and not looks then I'd probly go for it. My second thought is a slot port, but running one down the entire width of the box gives me too much port area. I'm guessing a port that is 34.5" x ~1.25" wouldn't work very well. So I'd want to split the slot port into two with one on each side of the box. In Torres, would I just add the two slot Height's together for the calculation? Example: I want two seperate ports that are 3"H x 10"W x 20"L. Do you enter them in Torres as: 6"H x 10"W x 20"L?

OK Guys, What do you think about this: Looks like it should fit all the suggestions. Now I just need to figure out how to run all that port in the box... Looking at a couple 6" aeroports from PartsExpress (plus some bends and extras).

Yeah good suggestion, I do have some room between the top of the box and the rear deck. I tried playing with that in Torres, but it barely seems to affect the tuning at all. Am I missing something? I would think that port length wouldn't matter internal vs external.

I was aiming that direction, but to hit the desired port area, I think the port length will be longer than any dimension on the box. Soo I'll probably need an L-shaped slot port or something similar. Unless I do an elbow joint on the aeroport...not sure how that'd work..

Hmmm, that's what I figured.... I'll see what I can do about upping the port length then. Thx for the input!

Bump. Any help/comments are appreciated. At what port area do you have to worry about port noise? I'm thinking interchangable port so I can change it if needed? Thanks guys.

Not yet but I'm looking at a 250a Singer. Hitting the group buy on a couple XS XP3000's at the least.

Hey Guys, I'm new to DC Audio and ported boxes in general. I've always done sealed back in the day. I've got a DC2K already and I'm planning on two XL12's(m2) Dual 1 coils so the amp will be at 1 ohm. Yeah, yeah, I know they'll a lil underpowered, but I want to start with a great set of subs and only upgrade the amp in the future if I want to. So here's the box dimensions I came up with: My design goals: Subs forward with the box sealed off from the rest of the trunk to reduce rattle and help focus the output in the cabin. Port up so I can utilize the rear deck as much as possible. Subs will be set back from the rear seats as well which will allow then to vent upwards too so I don't have to punch through the rear seat as much. The rear seat does drop down but I don't want to have to drop it everytime I get in the car. I'd like the port setup to be as simple as possible as I'd like to use some plexi on the box to show off those beefy XL motors. That means I'd like to stay away from any compound bends and elaborate ports that would hide the subs, if possible. I already know the first comment will be "more port!" but a bigger port also means a longer port and I don't have that much room to play with...? Since I'm not running rated power to the subs, I figure the box can be larger than the specified 1.5^3 per sub. I'm at 2.5^3 per now. Is that a safe assumption? Is the 36Hz a good place to tune for? I listen to a bit of everything so its got to have good range for all music. No need for burping. OK whatcha got?

If you need to use all four, how about two isobaric pairs? Probably need some spacers to seperate the subs a but due to the large surrounds but it'd save baffle space...

Now you're talkin'! It's rack mountable if you want to get elaborate later on. Big means heavy which means good thermal capacity which means big current capacity! Worth it in the long run.