carshateme

Yeah that was what I was meanin to say

Well I'm going to troll on this. My alternator is from DBElectrical...be cautious. those alternators DO NOT give off the correct amperage as they say they do.

ask teamTH, he seems to know everything. =) ...ofc he won't leave a feedback.

Are you trying to imply you can never have to large of a fuse? I hope you're saying yes... Get off my nuts, k thanks =) was referring to his setup.

Put a splitter down the middle. so the air hits it and rushes smoothly out the port.

Yeah lol. My subs don't flex that great now that I have them on a different amp...but they get insanely loud...and I don't have them tuned out yet =*( Wish you were located near me lol...but allendale is so far. xD

That's what we are for =) /troll out.

250A fuse, can't go wrong.

Still sounds good for the cash investment you put in it already. I need some better batts. Got me some 40 dollar no name agms. and i need an alt bad. DO NOT SKIM on the alternator either...Dc alternator or Mechman is the way to go...DC is more expensive though....but worth the money.

Still sounds good for the cash investment you put in it already.

holy...f(#*in shit..That's one long ass box lol

That shit should be flexxin way harder... /troll =( Y no better flexxin!?

My favorite is T ports and L ports. =) There are several port calculators on here. Torres is one *located in the subwoofer category.* I sometimes use http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#rec box calculator. As well as http://www.hometheat...ume-calculator/

Gorilla glue, JKing, / *they see me trolling, they hate it.* Fast stick upholstery foam - Google.

Not enough information listed, but as far as I can see, no there is no difference. It may be that one is newer and they switched the color.

Like everyone says it'd be cheaper if you build it yourself. Idk about the shipping cost, considering I have no idea where you live, pm me if you are still interested.

Well I can make one...but it's gonna be like $95...plus shipping...

Best buy has those boxes that you just glue together/screw together...already pre-made wood with the cut pieces. Like meijers and walmart crap. So basically prefab without the fab? Yes, they come with the sides, already cut, with some sticky adhesive spray and some sound damping material that you put in the corner pieces and a set of screws...they suck...literally.

Best buy has those boxes that you just glue together/screw together...already pre-made wood with the cut pieces. Like meijers and walmart crap. To answer your question, you're gonna want to buy 3/4 mdf particle board *Home Depot, menards, lowes* approx $28-$34. Tuning depends on what you want to hear...this is all worthless information if you're not building your own box... You may want to contact some guys on this forums that do custom boxes, gonna be around $150-$200 though....I think.

You can't have it just sitting on the speaker terminals, you have to push the DMM points against them else you'll get an irregular reading.....it's like having a bad ground.

Sure, I would love to see what you've got in mind. My only restraints are that the box be 36" wide, less than 20" tall, and less than 45" long overall. 2 cubic feet is ideal for internal volume. Since I don't know any measurements, nor the model number of the kenwood subs to even get specs off, I just based this off the measurements you gave me for maximum dimensions. Port would most likely be a T port....and mostlikely work best on the side of the box. I was making the box and realized what time it was...have to work. So here is my idea.

I was thinking the same thing, but with that poor video quality I couldn't tell if it was on Ohms or Voltage...