c.director

I don't think you can burn out an amp by putting higher rated subs on it, something else must have went wrong.

Audiosavings has some good stuff. it's all the companies making the amps/subs Looking at there website some of the better brands: Rockford Fosgate, JL audio, Kicker, Alpine, etc. If the amp fits your needs, it really doesn't matter if it does rated power, though it really doesn't speak well for the quality of the company.

Any of those cheapo brands (kenwood for one) won't ever even get close to there max.. To find out the max an amp will put out, look at the fuses. If it has say a 20 Amp fuse, then 20x14 (car voltage) = 280 Watts it will never get too, because the fuse would blow. Ive also found that if you replace the fuse with one about 5 amps lower most will still not blow it, so that lowers your rating even more. It's not audiosavings btw, It's the companies making the amp.

0 Gauge to a D-Block with multiple 4 ( or 8 ) gauge outs, Thats how most of my lower power setups go. Good for adding accessories in the future too.

Looks awesome man. Well done, mind putting up the basic steps you took?

Expected cost?

True, But mainly for looks, Kinda awkward a pipe sticking up in my rear view lol is 5 inches with a 45 there not enough? if not i'll raise it a couple of inches and fiberglass/bondo a curve up to it.

Well damn, it won't go down the center with the height being 18, so I reworked it to this: So subs forward and port up in the middle, any problems? or just let me know if it looks good, i'm reading to build this thing!

I'm not trying to bad mouth anyone here or cause controversy, so I don't want to go into too much details about the horn, so ill end this part of the subject for me by saying that it was the ''Auto Tuba'' and about $800 worth of testing for my personal satisfaction. It was built right. The wider box will help to hit the low notes better and it does that just fine. I even tried a ten inch driver with the correct parameters and three times the wattage. Same results "for me" In my home right now two 10'' ported drivers against my one 8'' horn is about the same output but the horn sounds a lot cleaner. If you guys think a horn is great in a auto environment please post examples and information on how to build because im crazy enough to do it agian You don't really sound like you know much about the subject.. Your talking about more internal volume here I assume, its common knowledge that bigger boxes "boom" more. And the fact you won't show us any pics? really, people here are just trying to help. To answer your original questions I don't think having the port to the outside actually helps unless the design calls for it, like more port area with less internal volume taken up. and yes keep it at least the diameter of the port from a wall

^^ BAS RUTTEN (not even an insult if you know who he is lol)

Well if that's my only problem i'm doing good LOL Yes it's almost touching if I did it exactly like the sketchup, I will probably have to try up the middle

Doesn't sound like is was done all that good. It's easier to shake walls inside, did you ever try a high power setup?

Just messing around (first time using this program also): The port will be flared of course.. Anybody seeing any problems? this was made based on the calculator results (I know some of how they overlap is wrong, like i said a lot of trial and error, that will be fixed before making.)

Yes it's a slanted box. The more I read, i'm thinking I could let my tuning frequency be a little higher. Maybe between 30-34 Hz. Which makes it easier to get, but I will have to try when I get home. If I get the box tuned between 30-34 hz with over 3.5 internal cubes and my port area per foot to be above 8, is there anything else I have to worry about?

How long can aeroports be?

Trying to get the Tuning frequency to 30 Hz (or even close) with the net volume around 3.5 or more and port area per foot being above 9 is seeming IMPOSSIBLE right now. lol Unless I have an extremely long port, whats the longest you would go on an aero? Anybody wanna throw me a bone? Firing the port(s) out the side sounds like a good idea so i'll probably go that route. Still prefer to make my own though, I've been building my whole life, just not audio.

Thanks.. Does PVC come in 6"? I was planning on making my own, but I will play with it some more. The ports I had planned on front mounting towards the bottom, where there is 14 inches of depth, is this still a problem? and the woofers mounted half way down, it would just be a few inches, I didn't think this was a problem but I will try and add a few more inches to it.

Just 1, I don't plan on it happening again either.. Ruined my perfect record! haha

Depends on if you want experience or not, some i'll do for free, but $90 and up

My first endeavor into building ported boxes. I'll be getting 2 SA 12's soon for the back of my truck cab. Max Dimensions: 46 wide x 17 depth(s) x Tall (not really a limit here) I have been reading up on ported boxes here, I decided to go with aeroports (PVC) mainly for ease of building. Here's is a screenshot of Torres' calculator. Let me know if I messed anything up, also the first time using this calculator. NEW: ^^^^ This is a new one (so disregard some of the comments) I can easily get the dimensions to come out with that net volume if that port and tuning work. If i make the box any larger, I can't keep the port area per foot up. Subs forward with port out the side in a truck cab box. EDIT: Also I plan to flare the ports on both ends (just a small flare on the inside using heat and then round over the wood with the pvc recessed slightly on the front, how does this factor in?

Got talent. lol @ "You don't wanna see what my system looked like at 15" haha same here

Next: Fiberglassed it in place to get the perfect fit: Then remove it and strengthen it, also add some curves to form. Some more shaping with the Mat Sand it down and prep for bondo: First layer down Prime it (after more sanding): Attach purple street glow bar Throw in a relay for the street glow and it's all in IT'S NOT FINISHED. everything needs more sanding and then will be wrapped when I get the vinyl.

Try hooking a different music source to the amp and see if it plays.

New pics Boxes coming along: Primed and set in place: Woofers mounted and started the cover panel then I cut another identical piece with squares cut out Attach them with some nice countersunk screws Test fit the plexi. NOTE: The plexi was being reused from an old build, i planned for LED's but bailed out. A little black paint and another panel and boom: Test fit:

It's easy man, if you can build MDF boxes you can fiberglass.