alaskanzx5

Both sheets aren't necessarily bs. A reputable company that does them is trust worthy. However like said once on music your not going to see that power. As karkov said as well most make that power in the 200hz + area. At the same time though if say you buy 2 1k rms amps and the birthsheets have different results. 1. Makes 1348 at 230hz 2. Makes 1503 at 180hz Which would you rather have? Sure they're both rated for 1k rms but look at this way. Amp 1 makes less power and at a higher freq. Amp 2 makes more power at a lower freq. So we could make the assumption that there is a chance amp 2 could produce more power on music then amp 1. Would it though? I don't know, it would take further testing to say if it does or not.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K59OM5K?pc_redir=1414332042&robot_redir=1 Then get a pair of the 6x8 adapter and mount the trim ring to it and the adpater to the door.

Yeah 4" coil, like 22mm xnax, 1200rms 2400peak, weighs in at like 45-55lbs. I gave one a t1500.1bdcp for about 4 months full tilt all day and earo metered gain setting with me turning it up more and more through out that time frame. I was at like 3/4 gain when I blew it. Clipping like crazy, over powering it and was in a 3-3.5cuft box.. Didn't give the sub a chance to last.

The biggest change is the cooling from what I remember when they first came out. The new black dust cover is made of the same material as the older ones. One f the biggest issues though is still heat. They get hot and those covers will warp and bend. Then the voice coil doesn't line up right and rubs.

There really isn't much of any difference between those t2 and the new. The new t2 looks better imo. I love the surrounds on those x's though

If I didn't live in AK or at least had a garage... Good luck to the everyone!

Aren't they suppose to be somewhat flexible?

I prefer Xbox for one reason, the remotes. Just seem to fit my hands better. I'm not a big gamer either so the extra features of the Xbox one being able to control just about everything on the entertainment center is a plus.

Mu car sots between 1500-2500 while driving (depends on where in going). The 250amp singer alt puts out at 1700-2k rpms. I don't sit at an idle full tilt.

No calibration required. Have one in my car.

Yeah I've talked with some in the past.

Imo to the biggest amp or to rear batts. Remote turn ons for hu's should only have a max of 2 accessories hooked to hit and that can even push it. You can use a relay with the remote turn on for a much better option.

I didn't see what he was driving but it was Andy. If I remember right that is what he was running.

Think the most recent ones in here I've seen have been going for 100-125. Got mine for $50 in the box it was originally shipped in packing peanuts and all. More then happy with that.

I already downloaded the test tones and did a coworkers sub amp (Memphis 1k) and my temp setup sub amp (p400-2). Both with the -5 40hz track.

I am now a new owner of a used dd1. Found it on Craigslist here in AK for $50. Only missing the cd but downloaded it from the website. (still want the cd itself) Anyways the owner of it just so happened to be a member on here.

I used their website link. Found it in their section in a pinned thread.

I've emailed and called a few times. After about 4 days there has been no response. Is there any other form of contact or just keep calling and waiting for a reply?

Its a 15, imo between 45-60" of port area in a 3-4cuft box. Look around at builds using those speakers to see how much port area and net volume people are using for them. Then build a box that fits your car with net volume and port area around what others are running those subs with

Spent a lot if time in willow same weather pattern as Fairbanks basically. Just about everyone out there run OEM batts son of the I know where running the cheap WalMart batts. Most of them had no issue with it until they get a year or 2 use out if them. By then they have been abused and past warranty. I'm sure a agm battery will hold up better to that weather specially a xs power.

Yeah more runs will help. With 2 1500.1bdcp and a 400.4 I'll be close to 300amps on music. RF says the 1500 1 does 100amps on average on music and the 400.4 like 40. Puts me at 240amps plus all the other electronics in the car. 2 runs of pos and if testing shows neg runs will help me I'll do those to.

Shoot I only plan to run 3400-3800rns total and have just about the same setup. 250amp singer alt, upgraded battery, 1 extra in the back and I'll be running an external regulator to get away from the pcm. If voltage stays above 13v I'll be happy. If not I'm adding batts until it does. I'll have 2 runs pos and maybe do neg runs maybe not. imo you said you only have one run of neg and pos front to back. Your running close to 5krms. Your exceeding what the wire can handle. Do at least one more run of pos. Neg if you want and since you already have a neg run why nit another. Then see what voltage is like. Should gain a little. if your still dropping either do an external regulator or the mla modular. And add some batts.

Stock alt is 105-110amp. Car pulls around 50-60 amps from what I could find. charges 14.5-15v cold but hot its down in the 13.6-13.8v range usually. trunk measurements 41" wide bottom depth 30" top depth 19" if you stay under 36" wide roughly but if going wider its about 17" height at 19" top depth can go up to roughly 22" but if going with a wider box height is limited to about 19" like nightshade has said he has a lot of exp with these cars. I'm going to be working with him for my build which will be 2 t2d415 on 2 t1500.1bdcp at 2ohms. He is convinced he can get me above a 150 with the tricks he learned with his exp. he found that sub up port to diver side is great for both daily and comps in these cars. The like to get low with authority.

whoked on fonics worcs gray!

1 minute to late.