RAGU408

Do you have any vvx 15's left?

I'm looking in to buying another E-12 subwoofer how much total with shipping to 95002. Their are no close dealers to me an I don't know any stereo shops that carry this brand. I just got one of these subs in a custom box built to its specs an it gets REAL LOUD! By far the best sub I have ever owned! I definitely gots to buy another one!

Yup. the guy told me if i really wanted it tuned with the o-scope that i would have to pay the extra $80 an hour labor rate. this was at Audio Designs on stevens creek in San Jose CA

It was at car audio warehouse in hayward on E 14. But every shop I've been too in the 408 (Gurus, Royal Electronics, sound systems, Audio desing) all tune by ear. some guy at audio desings told me they have an osliciscope on site but they don't use it unless the customer really wants it but it's another $80 bucks of labor for them to doit.

He had it installed by a shop an 30 min later the coils froze. I had read on here before that it wasn't true that you dont have to break em in but I just wanted to confirm. I called the shop an asked what they set their gains with an dude told me the one an only way was the golden ear. I'm pretty sure since they didn't use a distortion detector or oslisiscope is why it blew since those are the only 2 real ways to set your gains am I right?

One of my cousin just bought a 15'' kicker L7 running off a Alpine MRX-1100. The shop he bought it from told em to break it in before cranking it up is this true do you have to break in subwoofers? Prior to the L7 he had an 15'' L3 but it started smoking within 30 minutes of being hooked up an the shop said was because he didnt break it in.

Level 4 10's to 95002

alright so i took both the alpine type R subwoofers out the box an double checked to see if everything was connected right an yes everything was connected right so i do the 9volt battery test an only one of my subs moves does that mean that my other one is toast? can it be fixed?

no i have not moved it out i will be checking that. an i need to get a new DMM my old one broke. what other things can i troubleshoot for to make sure its not blown?

could anybody tell me about my type r what could be wrong with it? its not hard or anything their is no scratching sound when i push on it an they are not even a year old

Bump

hello smd i have a few questions i was wondering how you would be able to tell if a subwoofer is blown its a 10'' alpine type R ? because yesterday my friend came by an asked me if he could hook up his 2 kicker cvr 12's to my car to see if they worked well i hooked them up and nothing it felt like their was sand inside one of the sub when it would hit. an on the other one of the subs it didnt move at all it looks like the cone has been pushed in. an when i took the subs out the box i noticed that they were dual 4 ohm subs but only one negative an one positive were connected out of the 4 terminals on each speaker so i thought that was the problem so i wired each speaker down to 2 ohm each an then down to a final impedance of 1ohm an still nothing i sounded the same. so i hooked up my 2 alpine type r 10's to show em what they sounded like an only one was working i know everything is hooked up right because the car has not been moved in about 4 months its just been sitting an i have not messed with it. i just went to turn it on today an only 1 of the type R was working. what could be wrong??

yea i kind of had that feeling about that but since i myself don't know a whole lot about cars an he was willing to doit for free i thought what the hell. do you know what that part is called the one he tried welding? he knows alot more about cars then me but he also didn't know what that part was called.

anybody?

alright so yesterday my neighbor came by an looked at my car we put the cv axle back on an he said a piece of the frame witch looks like T with one end going to the driver side an one going to the passenger side an the top going to front of the car. well he said the passenger side looked bent an that he could fix it by welding it he said it would save me money instead of going an buying the part so i said what the hell he welded it on we put everything back on and i crank up the car drive a few feet and Crack! again the axle comes off an the car stops an starts shaking like before. here are some more pics http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle021.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle020.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle019.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle018.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle017.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle016.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle015.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle012.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle014.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle010.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle009.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle004.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/axle002.jpg i dont really think my neighbor knew what he was doing what do you guys think??

alright ill upload pics in a bit

yea im low on money so that's what im trying to avoid is going to a shop. i could probably have some one fix the tie rod end or the passenger outer but i know eventually ill have to go to a shop to get an realinged the funny thing is i just did an allingment in november of last year.

alright so recently i was driving to work an all of a sudden it felt like i lost control of the steering i had to have the steering wheel turned all the way to the left the keep the wheel on the passenger side straight an the other wheel was like burning tire so i immediately turned around an an drove back home since i was only a few blocks away but on the way back i stop at a stop an you hear a crack an my car stops starts shaking real bad i get out the car an my passenger side wheel looks like a butterfly like this pic http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/Tires001.jpg and the driver side wheel is straighthttp://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/Tires002.jpg i look under the car an the passenger side cv axle is broken an theirs a lil bit of oil on the floor so i tow the car home an go out to oreilys an buy a new cv axle i replace it with the old one turn the car on put it in drive an drive a couple feet in my driveway an BAM! once againg my car stops an starts shaking all crazy an the cv axle popped out again but didnt break an once again my car looks like this http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s200/alvisonero408/Tires003.jpg driver side is turned straight an passenger side is to the right in a butterfly position what could possibly be wrong with this car did something else mess up? if anybody out their has any suggestions or help please let me know. oh an the car is a 1990 HONDA ACCORD EX automatic transmission front wheel drive.

GUCE NIGGAAAA!!!! hahahaha he really did champ it out though! good shit steve!

Thats Wasup! Post the video!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLaN2qbZOhk

"Dat's what they say" that song SLAPS! Hella Bass on it also.

What battery for under the hood would you recommend I get?? I have a 1990 Honda accord stock alternator no big 3 2 10's alpine type R's 600 Rms an a Boss Phantom PH5000D 1800 rms. I seen the wattage chart but I was confused on witch one I should get do I add the rms rating of both my subs an amp together an go off that??

I have 2 alpine type R's 10's an a 1800 RMS Boss phantom PH5000D Amp an a stock alternator and no big 3 witch battery would you suggest for using under the hood? the car is a 1990 honda accord, would D5100 be good?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AKhWM0EXGQ&feature=fvst