Jessica

I have had issues with the m4u's or whatever the hell itunes uses. They don't play on my headunit. How many songs are in each folder? mine is limited to around 2500 songs regardless. Of course if i put too many songs on it just corrupts the filenames for most of them and then the rest it wont even display.

It does not, but, set your gains with the DD-1, then from there use a DMM to match them to the best of your ability to keep them as close to unclipped power as you can. he didn't ask about setting gains. He asked about gain matching. But wouldn't setting with the dd-1 then going with the lowest unclipped voltage using a digital multi-meter work? yes. But GADAAAAMMM.........all i said was the DD-1 doesn't gain match. JEEEZZZZUS. LOL umadbro? lol j/k I was only trying to help the o.p.

It does not, but, set your gains with the DD-1, then from there use a DMM to match them to the best of your ability to keep them as close to unclipped power as you can. he didn't ask about setting gains. He asked about gain matching. But wouldn't setting with the dd-1 then going with the lowest unclipped voltage using a digital multi-meter work?

So, the short answer is, most amps don't have that sticker anyway and therefore no voided warranty. /end thread?

Not really interest in cca really didn't think so but just thought i would throw it in there. After all it is knu brand so it's probably a lot better than regular 1/0 kca. I am going to go with ofc as well when i get to that point.

http://www.amazon.co...ds=knu+wire+1.0 Knu KCA 0ga wire 1.95/ft + shipping 30ft is $13 shipping Works out to 2.36/ft not too bad. they have several colors. edit the description says "1/0" nut the title says 0 guage. that is kind of weiird also, the pic shows 1/0 on the wire itself.

Well, you runnin "max a/c" or just "A/C" on your selector? Also, did you have them put a vacuum pump on it before they charged it? it may just be that it isn't fully charged. If you had a leak before it may have air in the system when you recharged it.

Only other thing i can think of is if your controls are vacuum style you might have a slight vacuum leak or the gate is sticking a little and not flipping all the way. idunno. How hot is it up there in minni-tota anyway?, it's like 154 here in kansas

maybe it's the closest to the blower motor?

I've done two 10's face down in a sealed enclosure in a reg cab f-150, The console even had room in the top and a lid, for storage of stuff. Not sure how you would cram a 15 in a compact though...Maybe with some fancy fiberglass work you could do it.

Don't feel bad, i went as far as to download a pic and zoom in. I was looking for something less obvious than someone having the wrong frakin make. It's like those videos where there is a guy in a gorilla suit and you don't even notice him because of all the people playing basketball.

i'm going to have to admit, it took me a good 2 to 3 minutes for it to sink in. Then i was like "ooohhh, CHEVY durango, i get it" lol

Those doors must weigh a ton. You probably have more power going to those doors than i have in my whole ride! Crazy. Can't wait till this thing is done/

Well, you want to save space, that is why i sauis that, but 2 8's would be more surface area than one 12, plus triple the power handling. That should get you louder i would think. edit. Plus you i thought you said two 12's? which would be a larger box

If you want to save space and not have to remove the box to get to the tire i bet two of those 8's would do fine. Those things are monsters, 500w rms but probably could take more if you don't clip. At least then you could go with aero ports to the side and still be loud, unless you plan on sealing it off, but then you can still put bends in the aero ports if you need the extra length. Just my 2 cents.

There is a guy at work who is running a pioneer 3/2/1 channel amp. Running stereo to two JL audio 10's and bridged to a RF 12" all 4ohm and svc. It works but yeah. I mean, really? At least its creative.I don't even know how to begin to figure the final load on that thing.

I'd love to play some classic rock, but sadly my subs are junk and don't play most the freq's in that type of music. When i get my new subs i will definitely be rockin' out.

Can you explain why you think the sundowns would do better? I wouldn't mind buying the sundows but i can save alot of money buy going with skars. (not trying to go vs. here). Also, i don't mind that it is tuned to 35 instead of 32 because i listen to music, I mean i listen to country, rock, and sometimes dubstep. If i wanted to tune lower would i extend or shorten the port? Or would the larger displacement of the sundowns or skars lower the tuning? Sorry, enclosure design is one of my weak points. one more thing, I tried an experiment today, i put a crappy pioneer in my sealed enclosure that these used to be in.The box was built for these kenwoods. It's the exact right size for them and they sucked at higher freq. in it too. The pioneer plays super flat from 80 all the way down to about 30 or so. And i have heard from more than one person these kenwoods don't play highs well. I know that is kind of apples to oranges but with all the info so far it's looking like these subs are just not worth the effort. Plus the kenwoods so squishy on most drum beats for some reason, not sure why either. I really frustrates me because a long time ago kenwood made decent stuff, i am really disappointed now. Thanks for the help so far. edit. Look at the curve according to the owners manual. This is exactly what i get, and this is what the manufacturer recommends. lulz

witchcraft!

yeah, i agree

Still could be a heat issue, speed fan might be able to read the temp on it. That's what i was getting at, just checking the temp with speedfan. Maybe your bios checks it too.

I'll bite More pics in my build log, link in sig.

I had the same problem but my card is 2 years old and the fan stopped spinning, card got hot, blank screen. I Jut gave the fan a nudge and it spun up. So you might have an overheating problem. You could try running speedfan and check it.

Well, that thread is probably so buried now you'd never find it anyway lol. Don;t forget that P.T. cruisers go to junk yards just like any car. No offence. So you could start there if it turns out to be that. Most the tme cars go to junk yards for 2 reasons. Collisions and transmission/engine failure (then the city says get rid of the broke ass vehicle in your yard or we will fine you) So it goes bye bye.

You know, i saw your old thread on this and i wasn't much help but i am thinking that since it sat for years you may wan't to unplug you pcm or the computer and look at the connection for corrosion. I would just check every plug i could find under the hood that is wire to wire. Then start on the plugs that plug into sensors, like the speed sensor and such. Only other thing i could think is that since you have jump started it so many times and ran the battery dead so many times that maybe the computer is just bad now. I would get it put on a legit scanner not one of those wal-mart ones that just flash a light at you. Break down and pay the $40 bucks to get it checked. Actually i would do that first. Also if it gives codes those could still mean bad sensors or connections and not actually be actual issue.