Jessica

I've seen this thread before. Last time i said; Ocean liner, nuclear power supply, 4 million 18" 15" 12" 10" 8" 6.5" 5" 3" and super tweets. 100 1.21 gigawatt amplifiers and a flux capacitor.

It would be easy enough to set that up, would take a paper back novel to give you instructions on how to do it though.

I've never seen it done but if you could find some copper tubing that just fits on the wire and cut it to the right length and solder it on the wire like you would a terminal then put that in the power wire hole it might work. Plus your amp sliding around is bad, is your power wire fused? I hope so because if that sucker falls out and shorts you don't want a fire.

that's about how my box experience went, I upgraded it from a slot ported dual chamber box @ 1.61 cu. ft. per chamber tuned @ 38hz.. the overall sound from the new box is a lot better, but it's the steep drop off from mid-bass that I just don't like, I'm wondering whether tuning higher would be enough, or if i should build a smaller box tuned the same.. :s let's see some pics of the actual box, the design looked pretty sweet check my build log, in my sig.

Well, I have the box built now, tried out some various music on it. The response seems to curve off slow from tuning up but not bad really. I don't have the 50hz wang any more for sure. Weird thing is it doesn't seem all that much louder in the slot port but it is hitting harder i'm sure. I had my hatch rattle under control before and now it's back with a vengeance. Plus I can play the lows with way more authority now. I do need to give this box some more test time to give a better review. But a first listen it seems better. Also it's kind of cool to have all that air coming out of the port. .

Also, there is always going to be an idiot that says "so and so's system hit harder than this" Take for instance my friend at work. He said his friends explorer is louder then mine cause he can feel the air pressure around him, yet when he sits in mine he says the bass make his ears itch. I mean WTF?! but whatever, I'm not in it for others, I listen for me.

If you are going for sq, then someone will probably tell you skip the rear fill. cross your sub low as you can to help keep it from being directional. And like trt said, active proccessing. Sound deadener, speaker placement.

The infinity 6030cs do great on vocals and the upper midbass range, i mean snares and toms have tons of punch and i can feel vocals on my pant legs. The only problem i have with them is the damn tweeters are really harsh. "s'es" tend to hiss a lot unless you attenuate them. It may just be my teeter placement but i have seen other reviews that say the same thing. Just my two cents

this, only you may need a longer cable http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Mini-Plug-Computer-Stereo/dp/B000LMFS7M

mini-box . com edit wait... march 30th?. old thread. @mymanjojo use an aux cable (headphone to headphone) or one of those rf in-line antenna adapters. Unless you have bluetooth on your headunit, then use that.

I have some good news for you, i am currently building a slot port common chamber enclosure for the exact same subs and am using the same amp as you. I am tuning to 33hz, (bishes love 33hz) I have all the panels cut, and will begin assembly tomorrow. I don't have the same car as you but I will let you know how it does. So if it plays well for me maybe you can use these specs for your box.I decided to tune lower cause i am going to add mid-bass drivers anyway and my mids do 70hz and up really well. Also, at the risk of getting yelled at, those subs don't play well above 60hz in a sealed enclosure either.

Looks great Steve, don't know how the heck you crammed all that equipment in there and still have trunk space left... Also I wan't to thank you for causing me to spend 130 bucks today so I can build a new enclosure. My wife said that she doesn't know why i am building another box because i am just going to change it again in 3 months. lol I told her it's all part of the game baby, gotta get louder. And yes, you and your dang builds and others on here keep me from ever being satisfied with my build. All these ideas and so little time!

Ok, that will work. Look like 2 people have pretty much gave me the same volume enclosure with just different dimensions, of course i asked for that since things have changed. I only ask for subs up because by ear i think i gain just slightly and it will also give me more flexibility with amp placement. Thanks again for the help. Looks like i will be buying some mdf this weekend.

It's a hatch back not a trunk car. Not trying to sound snippy just stating facts. how do I figure the volume of that box? I subtract just the port area from the total minus the wood used for the port that is inside the box right? edit Subtracting the port i get 2.29 cuft per side +/- Is that right?

Can someone help with tores calculator? I'm trying to design a slot port for two 12's. The sub displace .07 each and my max width is 34" max height is 17" and max depth is 27". 27" will put the box an inch away from the hatch so i think actual max should be around 20 or less. Feel free to design anywhere inside these dimensions and i would like to tune to about 32 or 33. I think if i go with better subs then the extra displacement shouldn't effect my tuning enough to be harmful.I summarize; Width max; 34" Height max 17" depth max 20" single slot poert facing rear Subs facing up .75 mdf double baffle. I will be putting 45's in the corners cause bitches love 45's. Thanks to whoever does this. Also someone had this design but i'm not sure if it's quite right, It would be easy enough to put subs up. if you need any more info just ask.

Not sure what you mean by placing your peaks, but I have read in CA&E magazine many many years ago that a flat response curve doesn't always sound better. So, it looks like fiberglass it is. I'm just going to have to do more important upgrades first. Alternator, Wire, Enclosure and mid-bass speakers. I think moving my tweeters up the doors will help and getting my mids to point more towords the front seats will help a lot. That and sound deadener. Thanks for the replies everyone.

I am kind of limited on placement unless I start getting creative with fiberglass. Only thing I can think of that would help the most right now is getting the door speakers off a completely horizontal axis. Plus I hate the way 1k sounds so I always cut it some anyway. I may have to look into to RTA software and a decent mic since i have a carputer that would actually be an option.

How do you get the link without embedding? I can never get it to work but it seems some people can do it by accident. Also, that is crazy!

Hopefully this thread gets noticed, since Steve just posted his 360.3 thread this may get buried but i will try anyway. I have an ep2x with the 28 band e.q. upgrade installed. I was thinking of putting a bunch of tones on a cd and adjust levels for 2 hours until i get a flat response curve. The only problem i have is I can only check two ways, either with this, http://www.amazon.com/USB-Digital-Sound-Level-Meter/dp/B005JX2EZ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338348270&sr=8-1 , or by ear. I will be checking at the driver head rest and only do freq above 80hz since my subs are set to 80 lpf. And i will be using "A" weighted since i think that makes the most sense for those frequencies. (yes, i know those meters aren't the most accurate but, since it will be the same meter used throughout the test it may suffice, just not sure if it loses accuracy with higher freq) So my questions are; 1. Should I go by ear or meter 2. Is a flat response curve going to actually "sound" better musically 3. Should I set a nominal volume or a high volume (I ask because, if I get standing waves it may not be noticeable at lower volumes) Sorry if this should be in the "SQ" section instead of "Head Units-Processors and Eq's" .

Just seems weird because van trucks like u-hauls you can't see you the back. But I don't know the laws where you are. Maybe ask the DOT? Just tell them you have to cover the back glass, don't mention stereo stuff make up some b.s. excuse like tool box or something. See what they say.

What about people with camper shells that are the sleeper style. can't see through those suckers. edit like this. Doubt you will have a problem with cops if you have mirrors on both sides of your truck.

I believe he said 220amp alt in the first post. edit. dang it, ninjad again

48" wide, subtract thickness of the wood on each side. Then are you going to run common chamber or individual chamber, even if you have 3" extra dont forget the width behind the subs too. Unless you have 48" width front to back up and down then it might get super tight and it won't leave much space between the subs so yo will need some super duper bracing inside the box to stiffen it up. Just some thought in my head. edit, you ninja'd me. nevermind.

Your'e gonna have to give more info than that. We ain't psychic.

Sorry, i just cut and paste from the map. Here. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/52975-darksoul187/