Jump to content

IndianaBassHead

Members
  • Posts

    764
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by IndianaBassHead

  1. Ok, I will redesign the box and see what I can come up with. How many braces do you think I would need? Would 3 top to bottom between each pair of subs and 3 side to side do it? I would think that would be more than enough.
  2. I had planned on it. Need all the room I can get. that box is gonna squeeze in there.
  3. Well with threaded rod, would I need to go side to side too? Because my box design is about as wide as I can make it. So i wouldn't have an extra couple inches to put the rod and lock nut on the outside of the box.
  4. will try that, thanks. Never new lumber yards had 1" thick. but will 2x4's do as well as threaded rods? because 2x4's would be a lot easier.
  5. I don't trust myself welding. lol. But would you do angled 2x4's from side to top, or 2x4's straight up and down from top to bottom?
  6. They're running of a crescendo BC3500d at .66 ohms. So right at 4k watts for now. Hopefully upgrading to a bc5500 eventually.
  7. What's up everybody? Just got done talking to nick at Obsidian Audio and I'm ording 6 obsidian 18's this weekend. I will be doing subs up/port back in my tahoe. It will be b-pillar back. I've been playing around with the box design and it will be right around 30 cu ft. with around 420 sq in. of port. This is my first multi-woofer build and I really need help with bracing. What would be the best type of bracing I can use? And how do I calculate port bracing into the sq in. and tuning of the port? Thanks for the help! Also, can I get by with doing single layered sidewalls or should i do 1.5" thick all the way around?
  8. I cook is hands down the lowest song I've heard. But, delusional by tech n9ne slowed is a good one. find it and dl off youtube.
  9. If you can fit 8-9 cu ft, that's what I'd do. At the very smallest, 7 cu ft. Tuned to 32hz would be just right.
  10. Take the tint off and re apply lighter tint.
  11. What woofers/amp are you running?
  12. well if i could do 15's, it would definitely be facing the back. I just like the sound of forward facing a lot better. but I don't think 12's will fit forward facing since the opening isn't there. That's where I can't decide if i want 10's sealed off or 12's facing the back.
  13. only 6? lol weaksauce lol, ya i'm weak man I can't help it. haha. but hopefully I'll be movin some air once I'm done. But I had a few questions about box bracing and heard your a box expert. any way you can help me? (not to thread jack)
  14. great sub choice. getting ready to order 6 obsidian 18's myself
  15. been dealing with this same issue. free handed on my last box and every cut was a little off. Do you guys run the blade right against the level?
  16. will do. I will try to find them online. The car I'm getting is about 3 hours away. Just waiting for the bank to get paperwork done.
  17. my new build should be done by then. hopefully i can make it over there. so the number of woofers doesn't matter in the classes?
  18. I found a good deal on a chrysler 300, so I am going to be buying it next week. I've been thinking about the build and need some help. Everyone I talk to says it's best to fire the subs forward and seal them off. My question is, would I be better doing 2 10's forward firing or two 12's or even 15's facing the trunk? I kind of like the idea of being able to seal off the back of the box if i face them forward giving it a more factory look. But will 2 10's facing forward be close to as loud as 2 15's facing the hatch? The subs will be sundown sa series tuned to 28 hz aero ported by the way. Thanks! edit: will only be running them off an arc audio ks 1000.1bx for now. so only 500w per sub.
  19. Not to thread jack, but I previously had my system ground with a - wire front to back with no chassis ground. had just a tiny drop at idle. none while revving. Redid my wiring and now I just have my back battery and amp grounded to chassis. At idle I drop down to 12v at full tilt. drops to 13 while driving. Now I am going to have to rewire again lol. And I do have the paint sanded on a ground straight to the frame. I'm only running under 4k watts and i have a 270 amp alt, d3400, and shuriken bt80. So there shouldn't be any voltage drop at all. I agree that a wire front to back will do better in some setups.
×
×
  • Create New...