KiKaZz74

Brz2400? Or the top elite version?

Alright. Thats what people are telling me but looking at what we have to work with any brands u could recommend our just wait to get car for that to?

Anyone else have input? Subs, amp, speakers, HUs? Brands and series if u could plz Thanks

True never really thought of it like that. But I'm just getting ideas right now brand and series wise. Amps I'm mainly thinking hifonics, or something cheaper like that.

itll be like the end of summer hes just getting the gear now box and everything will be designed and made once we have the car. he doesnt care what brand of mids/highs really so i said a set of kicker or pioneer or kenwood and run them off HU power

ok so i got my friend from school wanting subs now new or used. ive been looking at the lower end skars and sundowns. either 2-3 10s or 2 12s. any other brands u guys would recommend? his budget is no more than $165 per sub. once that is decided i will help decide on an amp and box design. i dont know what car it will go in since he has to buy one but he is getting the gear lined up. also HU's all it needs is to have a aux input. nothing fancy like $100 at most on that. total budget for build is $600-750 any input is greatly appreciated

So I should expect mine this next week? Ordered on may 6. 10 business days so far

I had the same problem with mine to bro. I switched cards and put it on a credit instead of debit. The 3 debits I tried wouldn't work. 1 credit and it was all good. Just waiting for the sub to get finished (single bl 18) can't wait

2 lvl 2 12" and 2 lvl 3 12" and available options, price and what they do. 61244

Then again the brz isn't meant to run at .5ohms. Its meant only for 1 ohm and up

Damn bro that sweet. I got same truck but a 97. Any pointers u could give me? Can't wall cuz of how I sit in seat and cuz it's still a work truck do I need the window... But looking good still.

alright lol. and um this isnt good but i got big3 done and it dropped volatage by .2 from 13.9-13.7. but it stays more constant. it would vary between 13.8-14.05 now it just sits at 13.68-13.73. so is this good or bad? my dad already told me i needed a new alternator just because this one is kinda old. and i might need a new battery

and ami what u doing on the computer... go build i wanna see it finished! =]

nvm then. ill stick to the copper ones meant for my wire that i cant solder....

lol really now?? do they come in size 16? cuz thats what i wear...

lol ok. and nice huge pic i think i can see it now

lol alright i use the top ones. i picked up 15 from carquest yesturday. gotta go get fuse and holder today for alt to bat

dang. i guess i gotta accept my stupidity then. but are they important if they just the big3 ground stuff?

I fill that sucker with solder. let it cool then heat it back up so it sucks the solder down in the connector. I use lugs though and it's easier they are closed on one end. what u mean lugs?

damn... i really hope the ones that are bad are the easy to get to ones... dont feel like unbolting my pulleys again...

ok so how can i fix them now? cut off heatshrink and just heat and more solder? then re apply shrink?

damn. thats gonna be a bish to get back to some of them. the only ones i remember was battery to ground ones and the amp ground but i crimped them both enough to where they wouldnt pull out still redo?

i used flux but some did hold others didnt. they all are connected good tho if they didnt hold i used vise and semi crimped em. i dont think i had enough solder inside them is all. but heatshrink just help if they were loose i know i might have to redo them just not right now

ok got it. and i cant solder i realised. they all work good buuutttt. they didnt hold... so they got heatshrinked and they worked

I rest at 13.9v at idle. How much will big 3 help that?