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Found 16 results

  1. So I’m getting no output from my subwoofers. Brand new pioneer deck and brand new audiopipe 2k. I have 2 d4 12s wired to 1 ohm and that’s what it reads at the amp when the car is off. But when I turn the car on it reads -2 or -3ohms so that’s obviously why I just don’t know what to do I’ve tried everything. Tried 3 diff sets of rcas
  2. So this is my car, its a 2005 cavalier it has the 2.2liter automatic rolin on some 14s. big plans little money guess we will see wear it goes
  3. Waiting on title to be mailed to the old owner & everything will be finalized. 2001 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3 V8. Only mods done are Flowmaster Outlaw exhaust & 2" lift on front to level truck. Truck has 158k but it drives better than our new work trucks. Already has a Sony headunit, just need different mount kit to add a Clarion EQ. More pictures/info to come as things come together. Comments/suggestions appreciated, especially on how to mount DIN slots for the scanners in the center console. Can't link pictures, but I have the same center console as this truck hereaap
  4. So here is my question, I have ofc 4 gauge ran from the front to my back battery. Right now I only have 1 -1000 watt mono block for my sub. I want to power my door speakers with a 4 channel amp. Should I run 0 gauge to a distro block and continue 0 to my power cell and use the 4 gauge for my door speaker amp. Or should I just do another run of 4 gauge to my second amp.
  5. Anyone heard of "Sonido Mask"? I hadn't when one of their reps contacted me about 2 months ago asking me to test one of their amps. I had never heard of them and really had no interest in testing the amp, but just in the past 2-3 weeks, there has been some buzz going on about them. I got back in touch w/ the rep and asked him if they were still interested in sending me the amp. "Yes" he says, "and we also want to send the newly released ZX3000.1." Send them on, I said. Here's the video, but for those who don't take the time to watch it, this ZX-1500.1 appears to be nearly identical to the Audiopipe APCL-15001D I tested a few months ago. I honestly could care less, because I use and prefer old school Class A/B amps, but I thought I would post this for anyone interested... Also - I wasn't paid by the manufacturer to test the amp or make the video, they agreed to send the amp and pay shipping both ways. Again, I'm just doing this for you guys. Watch on YouTube in 1080P HD or embedded below:
  6. i've heard that audiopipe amps are reliable but i have never seen one so somebody advised me to buy the AP-15001D amp http://www.audiopipe.com/products/amplifiers/ap/ap-15001d.html it does not have internal fuses would that be a problem ?? plz i need advice is it good and reliable amp ??
  7. Well. I have a 2000 GMC Sierra SLT Ext cab. No pictures right now. Just got off work. Today is my birthday... Right now I have a AudioPipe 3000.1 The older one with the pipes on the front. 1ohm. Bought it for $280 at a pawn shop in Kalamazoo, Mi. As of Right now I have 2 Kicker Comps in a box I made. With my own 2 hands.. lol.. I found 2 AudioQue now known as soundqubed 18's for $250 guess What I got ripped off. Blown. So now going to order recone kits. Which I have the money on a card. Need better details on the subs to get the right recone kit. Anyways what I need from you guys is to get some box dimensions. Wall? or just a ported box? This is where I am stuck. I need the best system in the small town I live in. I like low bass. Maybe like 29-30 hz? box on the site are for 35hz this is not low enough. No Alt. No batteries Yet..
  8. Good morning forum members, I hope this is the right subforum to ask this question. Background Let me start off by saying that I've been a huge fan of this community and Steve Meade for many years. I watched all of Steves videos back when he was doing builds out of his garage! One day, I would love to fly to California to hear his amazing system and meet him and thank him for his guidance and help he gives so many people. Anyhow, I wanted to ask this talented forum a question about an issue I am having. Last week, I made the decision to install a Rockford Fosgate P3-2X12 loaded enclosure in my 2015 Audi A3. The current system is comprised of a Bang and Olufsen OEM amplifier with B&O speakers. The first modification I made to the system was removing the B&O subwoofer and replacing it with a Pioneer dual voice coil subwoofer mounted free air to the back deck with Memphis sound deadening on the rear deck. I didn't gain much from this, so I decided to step it up a bit. Materials Used for Installation I ordered the following components for a bigger, better sub install: Rockford Fosgate P3-2X12 loaded subwoofer box Rockford Fosgate Twisted Paid 6' RCA Signal Cable AudioPipe APCL15001D amplifier XS Power XP2000 battery with a billet aluminum battery mount AudioControl LC2i 2 channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control InstallGear 14 gauge AWG 30' speaker cable InstallGear 1/0 Gauge 25' Red Cable InstallGear 1/0 Gauge 25' Black Cable InstallGear 1/0 Gauge 10-pack Crimp Ring Terminal Connectors InstallGear 1/0 Gauge In-line fuse with 250 Amp Fuse Noico Black 80 Mil 36 Sq Ft Car Sound Deadening Installation Notes The installation took a bit longer than expected. I had my local installer, who is a serious audiophile and has won many db drag races before, perform the installation for me. We didn't realize that the factory B&O system needed a wiring harness to plug in the factory subwoofer speakers to the LC2i. Whenever the system turns on, the factory amplifier will go through a self check to see if all speakers are connected. If it detects an abnormal impedance in any of the speakers, it will shut that speaker down. If it detects the positive and negative wires are reversed, the amp will actually reverse the polarity of the connection to correct itself. When we plugged in the factory wires to the LC2i, it would work, then it wouldn't work on the next start up, so we had to get a special wiring harness from AudioControl. Now, the LC2i always works on every start up after the self check. I also had my installer line my 4 doors and the entire trunk with Noico sound deadening. The Issue After ~20 minutes, the AudioPipe amplifier would seemingly go into a thermal protect mode for a few seconds before turning back on for a few seconds and then shutting down for a few seconds. This is even after the LC2i has been turned down and the gain on the amplifier is turned down. The bass control knob is almost completely down to nothing and on the factory headunit, the subwoofer and bass knobs are zeroed out. The amplifier will even go into thermal protect mode when the volume is less than 25% up. I know the signal isn't clipping...it was not only tuned by ear, but tuned with a SMD DD-1 to make sure that I wouldn't blow the subs. My Thoughts Could the amplifier be going into thermal protect mode because the output voltage of the LC2i RCAs is higher than the maximum input RCA voltage of the AudioPipe amplifier? Should I get rid of this amplifier and go for either a CAB-1600.1 or Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdCP? I purchased 2 cooling fans and some 3M tape. I was planning on hooking the 2 cooling fans to either side of the ports on top of the AudioPipe amplifier to move more air across the motherboard if you thoughts that I should go this route to see if it eliminate the protection mode. I didn't mount the amplifier into that much of an enclosed space, so I thought it would be able to breathe fine without cooling fans. Pictures and Video Video of going into protect mode: I look forward to your thoughts! Best, Brett
  9. I purchased this set of RF Punch components a while back which came with small passive X-overs. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3141_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P152S.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&scid=scplp3821624&gclid=CKLNxLbbxsACFSbl7AodiyIAYA Shortly after, the tweeters that came with the set blew, so I purchased two, Punch Pro bullet tweeters to replace them. They sounded great but once I switched systems to the SUV, I lost the Punch Pro's and the X-overs somehow. Honestly, I think they were stolen from me but that's another story. I now want to purchase these tweeters to replace the Punch Pro's for now. I know, they aren't as good but I heard a pair at a local competition and they sound pretty good for the price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-3-75-AUDIOPIPE-SUPER-TITANIUM-BULLET-CAR-TWEETERS-350-WATTS-EACH-4-8-OHM-/361029522932?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item540f0955f4 My question is, do these tweeters have a built in X-over? They do not say whether they do or not but since I no longer have X-overs and they will share a channel of my amp with the 5.25"s, I do not want to push too low of a frequency to them. I see they have a capacitor on one of the terminals, is this a small crossover? Also, assuming these do have one built in, is there any actual need for an external X-over when my component amp has a HPF built in? I have never ran components and have always used coaxial's up until now, so sorry if this comes off as a dumb question. I assure you, I am only a noob to components lol. Thanks!
  10. lanzar 12" flex - b-leget - where is it goin ---------> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_txLaWucBE
  11. I'm looking to start building a battery bank since I bought a crescendo bc5500 recently and won't be able to use it for a while. So far all I have done is the big 3 in my vehicle with the stock alt and added two extra batteries. Some walmart battery a friend gave me and an xs power xp750. They power a Skar rp-75.4 and an audiopipe apdl2001d "2krms". I have two crescendo symphony sc-650 6.5" component sets and two sundown x15 v.2's in a custom box tuned to 32 hz. The goal is to eventually have a c1100.4 power two 6.5"s, three tweets, and one 8" fiberglassed in both front doors with three x15s walled off on the bc5500. I want to replace the stock battery and have at least 4 batteries in the back. Just not sure of which batteries to get. I was hoping to not have to spend upwards of 400$ per battery. I'm still a car audio newb so I went to the xspower website and typed 7500 watts in the audio calculator and it told me one d7500 and three xp2500s would be sufficient. Thoughts?? I'll post some pics / more info soon
  12. Considering buying a new amp for my truck. I'm running a 12 kicker cvx, dual 4 ohm wired to 2 ohms. Have a kicker zx.300.1 using 2 gauge ofc wire. No electrical upgrades. I was told the audiopipe apsm 1500.1 was a great budget amp.
  13. I've only have had this truck since April of this year, I have a lot left to do, juice my door speakers I have a JL audio I'm going to use. I also have a belltech 5.5 drop I need to put in. I would also like to chip it or maybe get a smaller pulley for the supercharger. It comes stock with 450 hp and 500ft lbs of torque. Should get me by for now lol I finally got around to filling my holes on my f150. I got a 40"x 8" piece and cut out what I needed. And I got plenty left over to do my neon. I looked Around online mostly on eBay and the price for one that was already cut to size was crazy. The average cost was about $120.00 bucks,so I started to look at sheets and they wanted around $90.00. so I dug a little deeper and found this sheet for $35.00.its probably not as thick and durable as the other ones but was way more easier to cut and bend.and it's mostly for looks anyways Fun fact .... I put the stereo in before I left the car lot, the salesman was like this is a first for me and he also let me swap out my A pilers with my 4 tweeters on theam Giving my electrical system a workout
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