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Found 39 results

  1. I'm looking to start building a battery bank since I bought a crescendo bc5500 recently and won't be able to use it for a while. So far all I have done is the big 3 in my vehicle with the stock alt and added two extra batteries. Some walmart battery a friend gave me and an xs power xp750. They power a Skar rp-75.4 and an audiopipe apdl2001d "2krms". I have two crescendo symphony sc-650 6.5" component sets and two sundown x15 v.2's in a custom box tuned to 32 hz. The goal is to eventually have a c1100.4 power two 6.5"s, three tweets, and one 8" fiberglassed in both front doors with three x15s walled off on the bc5500. I want to replace the stock battery and have at least 4 batteries in the back. Just not sure of which batteries to get. I was hoping to not have to spend upwards of 400$ per battery. I'm still a car audio newb so I went to the xspower website and typed 7500 watts in the audio calculator and it told me one d7500 and three xp2500s would be sufficient. Thoughts?? I'll post some pics / more info soon
  2. I've only have had this truck since April of this year, I have a lot left to do, juice my door speakers I have a JL audio I'm going to use. I also have a belltech 5.5 drop I need to put in. I would also like to chip it or maybe get a smaller pulley for the supercharger. It comes stock with 450 hp and 500ft lbs of torque. Should get me by for now lol I finally got around to filling my holes on my f150. I got a 40"x 8" piece and cut out what I needed. And I got plenty left over to do my neon. I looked Around online mostly on eBay and the price for one that was already cut to size was crazy. The average cost was about $120.00 bucks,so I started to look at sheets and they wanted around $90.00. so I dug a little deeper and found this sheet for $35.00.its probably not as thick and durable as the other ones but was way more easier to cut and bend.and it's mostly for looks anyways Fun fact .... I put the stereo in before I left the car lot, the salesman was like this is a first for me and he also let me swap out my A pilers with my 4 tweeters on theam Giving my electrical system a workout
  3. So here is my question, I have ofc 4 gauge ran from the front to my back battery. Right now I only have 1 -1000 watt mono block for my sub. I want to power my door speakers with a 4 channel amp. Should I run 0 gauge to a distro block and continue 0 to my power cell and use the 4 gauge for my door speaker amp. Or should I just do another run of 4 gauge to my second amp.
  4. Good morning forum members, I hope this is the right subforum to ask this question. Background Let me start off by saying that I've been a huge fan of this community and Steve Meade for many years. I watched all of Steves videos back when he was doing builds out of his garage! One day, I would love to fly to California to hear his amazing system and meet him and thank him for his guidance and help he gives so many people. Anyhow, I wanted to ask this talented forum a question about an issue I am having. Last week, I made the decision to install a Rockford Fosgate P3-2X12 loaded enclosure in my 2015 Audi A3. The current system is comprised of a Bang and Olufsen OEM amplifier with B&O speakers. The first modification I made to the system was removing the B&O subwoofer and replacing it with a Pioneer dual voice coil subwoofer mounted free air to the back deck with Memphis sound deadening on the rear deck. I didn't gain much from this, so I decided to step it up a bit. Materials Used for Installation I ordered the following components for a bigger, better sub install: Rockford Fosgate P3-2X12 loaded subwoofer box Rockford Fosgate Twisted Paid 6' RCA Signal Cable AudioPipe APCL15001D amplifier XS Power XP2000 battery with a billet aluminum battery mount AudioControl LC2i 2 channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control InstallGear 14 gauge AWG 30' speaker cable InstallGear 1/0 Gauge 25' Red Cable InstallGear 1/0 Gauge 25' Black Cable InstallGear 1/0 Gauge 10-pack Crimp Ring Terminal Connectors InstallGear 1/0 Gauge In-line fuse with 250 Amp Fuse Noico Black 80 Mil 36 Sq Ft Car Sound Deadening Installation Notes The installation took a bit longer than expected. I had my local installer, who is a serious audiophile and has won many db drag races before, perform the installation for me. We didn't realize that the factory B&O system needed a wiring harness to plug in the factory subwoofer speakers to the LC2i. Whenever the system turns on, the factory amplifier will go through a self check to see if all speakers are connected. If it detects an abnormal impedance in any of the speakers, it will shut that speaker down. If it detects the positive and negative wires are reversed, the amp will actually reverse the polarity of the connection to correct itself. When we plugged in the factory wires to the LC2i, it would work, then it wouldn't work on the next start up, so we had to get a special wiring harness from AudioControl. Now, the LC2i always works on every start up after the self check. I also had my installer line my 4 doors and the entire trunk with Noico sound deadening. The Issue After ~20 minutes, the AudioPipe amplifier would seemingly go into a thermal protect mode for a few seconds before turning back on for a few seconds and then shutting down for a few seconds. This is even after the LC2i has been turned down and the gain on the amplifier is turned down. The bass control knob is almost completely down to nothing and on the factory headunit, the subwoofer and bass knobs are zeroed out. The amplifier will even go into thermal protect mode when the volume is less than 25% up. I know the signal isn't clipping...it was not only tuned by ear, but tuned with a SMD DD-1 to make sure that I wouldn't blow the subs. My Thoughts Could the amplifier be going into thermal protect mode because the output voltage of the LC2i RCAs is higher than the maximum input RCA voltage of the AudioPipe amplifier? Should I get rid of this amplifier and go for either a CAB-1600.1 or Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdCP? I purchased 2 cooling fans and some 3M tape. I was planning on hooking the 2 cooling fans to either side of the ports on top of the AudioPipe amplifier to move more air across the motherboard if you thoughts that I should go this route to see if it eliminate the protection mode. I didn't mount the amplifier into that much of an enclosed space, so I thought it would be able to breathe fine without cooling fans. Pictures and Video Video of going into protect mode: I look forward to your thoughts! Best, Brett
  5. Well. I have a 2000 GMC Sierra SLT Ext cab. No pictures right now. Just got off work. Today is my birthday... Right now I have a AudioPipe 3000.1 The older one with the pipes on the front. 1ohm. Bought it for $280 at a pawn shop in Kalamazoo, Mi. As of Right now I have 2 Kicker Comps in a box I made. With my own 2 hands.. lol.. I found 2 AudioQue now known as soundqubed 18's for $250 guess What I got ripped off. Blown. So now going to order recone kits. Which I have the money on a card. Need better details on the subs to get the right recone kit. Anyways what I need from you guys is to get some box dimensions. Wall? or just a ported box? This is where I am stuck. I need the best system in the small town I live in. I like low bass. Maybe like 29-30 hz? box on the site are for 35hz this is not low enough. No Alt. No batteries Yet..
  6. 4 Lengths of 2 ft 1 Length of 2 ft 9" 1 Length of 3 ft 1 Lengths of 15ft 6" 8 ANL Fuses (300x2)(250x5)(100x2) Inline ANL fuse holders Approx 100ft Speaker wire (14 Gauge) Mixed Bag of 0 Gauge, 4 Gauge, 8 Gauge and Speaker Terminals/Crimps 1 Set of Monster Battery Terminals RCA Adjustable Line Output Converter Set of 0 Gauge Ground Terminals Set of 90degree RCA adapters $50+shipping for everything in BOLD above. I REALLY DO NOT WANT TO SEPARATE IT! No trades. IF YOU'RE LOCAL TO NASHVILLE YOU CAN CHECK THE STUFF OUT IN PERSON IF YOU LIKE
  7. GrantMcl97

    SoundQubed/Hifonics/Audiopipe

    I've just really started getting into building my trucks system and my amp just went out. It was a Hifonics HFI amp I got from a friend. It's garbage but it worked for a while. It was pushing my SoundQubed HDC3.12.D2 and I'm in between amps. The number one on my list is the Hifonics Brutus 2000.1 it seems to be a good amp considering I'm still in high school so my money is tight. But I'm also looking at the Audiopipe APMI 2000 which I don't know anything about Audiopipe but I've heard that amp is decent and also the SoundQubed 1200.2 any input will be very appreciated and if you have had any of these amps please let me know how it was.
  8. 04 Toyota Seqioua Budget Wall 4 SUNDOWN E15's Since Ive joined this forum ive been fasinated with all the great build logs on here. You might see alot of things in my build that look some what similar as this is my first big build so im just trying what i have seen done. This will be a budget build, It will be a long going build as i will buy everything piece by piece. Im always working on something car audio related so there will be tons of pictures. Current Equipment: Head Unit- Pioneer touch screen navi Components- kicker Wire- 1/0 Knukonceptz with BIG 3 Sub amp- Soundstream Ta1.3000d Components amp- NONE Subs- (x2) Alpine Type R 15's Planned Equipment: Head Unit- Pioneer AppRadio 3 Components- Soundstream Wire- x2 runs 2/0 welding cable Sub amp- Soundstream Ta1.3000d Components Amp- Soundstream Ta4.720 Subs- (x4) Sundown E Series 15's Heres The Car The Enclosure Went back and forth between designs for this box. Its going to be a "C" pillar wall. I finally decided on a design. here it is.
  9. So this is my car, its a 2005 cavalier it has the 2.2liter automatic rolin on some 14s. big plans little money guess we will see wear it goes
  10. Frank Seaton-Gilford

    Audiopipe TXX-BD3 12 (2)

    I HAVE A 2004 CHEVY TAHOE I WANT TO INSTALL THESE SUBWOOFERS IN BUT DONT KNOW OF WHAT SIZE ENCLOSURE I SHOULD BUILD. I WANT TO BE HEARD FROM BLOCKS AWAY AS WELL AS GOOD SQ. I CURRENTLY HAVE A SPL 3400 GORILLA AMP TO POWER THE SUBWOOFERS. SPACE AVAILABLE IS THE WHOLE REAR SPACE. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT SIZE ENCLOSURE I SHOULD BUILD. THANKS
  11. I purchased this set of RF Punch components a while back which came with small passive X-overs. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3141_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P152S.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&scid=scplp3821624&gclid=CKLNxLbbxsACFSbl7AodiyIAYA Shortly after, the tweeters that came with the set blew, so I purchased two, Punch Pro bullet tweeters to replace them. They sounded great but once I switched systems to the SUV, I lost the Punch Pro's and the X-overs somehow. Honestly, I think they were stolen from me but that's another story. I now want to purchase these tweeters to replace the Punch Pro's for now. I know, they aren't as good but I heard a pair at a local competition and they sound pretty good for the price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-3-75-AUDIOPIPE-SUPER-TITANIUM-BULLET-CAR-TWEETERS-350-WATTS-EACH-4-8-OHM-/361029522932?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item540f0955f4 My question is, do these tweeters have a built in X-over? They do not say whether they do or not but since I no longer have X-overs and they will share a channel of my amp with the 5.25"s, I do not want to push too low of a frequency to them. I see they have a capacitor on one of the terminals, is this a small crossover? Also, assuming these do have one built in, is there any actual need for an external X-over when my component amp has a HPF built in? I have never ran components and have always used coaxial's up until now, so sorry if this comes off as a dumb question. I assure you, I am only a noob to components lol. Thanks!
  12. Was wondering if anyone here has ever had a Audiopipe 1500.1d/1800.1d are they worth the money? Do they do with what they say they will? looking at the 1800.1d to power my 4 12" Single coil @ 400 rms a piece.
  13. itscody

    Audiopipe APDL-20001d GUTS

    I've searched for a while, on several occasions, With no luck. So here it is. http://youtu.be/2K5RsRjhptA
  14. Looking for someone to help with a design for 2-12 Audiopipe TXX-BD312 ran by Hifonics BRZ2100.1 at 1ohm. Max Dim. 42w 16h 40d. Going in the bed of a 1989 Chevy C1500 Stepside. First time with a blow through and don't know where to start. Thanks
  15. Anyone heard of "Sonido Mask"? I hadn't when one of their reps contacted me about 2 months ago asking me to test one of their amps. I had never heard of them and really had no interest in testing the amp, but just in the past 2-3 weeks, there has been some buzz going on about them. I got back in touch w/ the rep and asked him if they were still interested in sending me the amp. "Yes" he says, "and we also want to send the newly released ZX3000.1." Send them on, I said. Here's the video, but for those who don't take the time to watch it, this ZX-1500.1 appears to be nearly identical to the Audiopipe APCL-15001D I tested a few months ago. I honestly could care less, because I use and prefer old school Class A/B amps, but I thought I would post this for anyone interested... Also - I wasn't paid by the manufacturer to test the amp or make the video, they agreed to send the amp and pay shipping both ways. Again, I'm just doing this for you guys. Watch on YouTube in 1080P HD or embedded below:
  16. Alright im about to build a 4th order for my jeep today. The max dem are 24x42x20, This gives me roughly 5.5 ported tuned to 44hz and 2.25 sealed, doing a slow port up, with about 111 sq in of port. Now one of my questions is would a full sheet and a half be enough to make this box? I did the math in my head and i believe i have just enough wood to make it. If not i have a few small pieces of mdf i can part with. Im hoping for a bandwidth around the mid 20's and the mid 40's anywhere close to that will be fine, as long as it will be able to play 23hz at the minimum only cause i dig few low end songs. The equipment is a single sundown zv3 with ns softparts, will be powered by 2 apsm 1500s at 2 ohm strapped. Goal is more of a decent bandwidth and more musical with the capabilities of digging deep in the low end with efficiency and maintaining a tight punch. Ive built a few 4th orders, this will be my first for my own personal use.
  17. Hey guys, I just bought a audio pipe ap30001 (audio poop) Because i heard some good about it. Also, im not able to slap out 1.5k on a amp. So i went to replace my MB quart oa1000.1 and all i smell is burning coils. Now, before i tell you what subs im running, i know deep down inside me that i am a horrible person. I have 4 lanzar max pro's http://www.parts-express.com/lanzar-maxp154d-15-1600-watt-woofer--267-7138 So i know my audio poop doesnt do a full 3000 watts, its rocking a 200 amp fuse so im thinking around 2000 watts clean if clean is possible. Big d wiz did a video on rms and posted on youtube with the 1500, it did 1000 watts, and all the 3000 is two 1500's strapped. So really what im asking is what are some decent 18" subs i can get for a ghetto budget build? i was looking at some obsidians, but they only got 600 watts rms. I also was looking at an RE woofer with 1000 rms, but it seemed like the obi's would have more xmax and more output (im a sucker for high rolls and fat magnets)
  18. Jose luis 12

    Need opinions on an amp!

    Considering buying a new amp for my truck. I'm running a 12 kicker cvx, dual 4 ohm wired to 2 ohms. Have a kicker zx.300.1 using 2 gauge ofc wire. No electrical upgrades. I was told the audiopipe apsm 1500.1 was a great budget amp.
  19. There's a good chance I may be getting the Jeep back to do another build, but that's still up in the air. Not too sure at all. However, if so, I am going to be doing a budget build yet again. Looking at starting with 2 HDS215's on an APCL 1800. I've decided on the Audiopipe over the Hifonics series as a foot warmer for this so I can have some kind of starting point. I know these amps can be power hungry but my eventual plan is 2 Crescendo Q1-2200's or something like that on 4 HDS3's. However, that's down the road from now and I just want to get my foot in the door. WHat are your thoughts on pushing 2 HDS215's on an APCL 1800 or should I go with a 1500? I know the subs are 600 each but once broken in, can handle more. I have also thought about spending the extra bit and getting a Q1-1200... Just tossed up for right now and want some input. I have no intentions of spending any more than $250 on an amp just to get things started. I will be checking the classifieds periodicly though just incase, however my initial stand is on the APCL's. Thoughts? Just so you guys know, this will be a daily system. going in a 92 Jeep Charokee Laredo and I plan to for now keep the back seats. Being nearly blind, I will not be the driver, but I want to bump and being on a budget, I have to work from what I have that won't cut into my bills, 'cause those are first lol Thanks in advance!
  20. So I got rid of the H3. I Bought a brand new 2013 Ridgeline (Honda). I was wondering if you guys have any opinions on a 4th order blow through. My plans so far are this. Port will be 8 3/4 x 11 1/4 8 total inches coming through the armrest area into from the bed of truck. The sealed portion will be 3cubes. 49.25 w x 18.75 h x 8 deep. The ported portion will be 49.25w x 18.75 h x 14.5 d . I was wondering if I should make any changes to the port depth at all. Or just any input whatsoever. The subwoofer will be a Atomic APX 18" D2. thank you all, And I welcome all comments. So this is my work in progress, the truck
  21. Aye guys. It's time to finally get some bass back in my life. I finally have the equipment and time (more or less) to do it. I just bought a new car after having a truck that I couldn't afford to drive (5 MPG FTW) and just recently bought a 04 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. My first build was in a 94 Pontiac Grand Prix and I just really like the cars. And I love how big the trunks are. Anyways Here's a list of what I will be putting in my new Pontiac 2 American Bass XFL 12s 1 Audiopipe 1800.1 (I know I know...) My JVC headunit. Single din. Can't remember the model off of the top of my head. I have an American Bass 4 gauge wiring kit that I'll probably use until I have the money for Sky High 0 Gauge. Stock Alt (125 Amp, not to bad) Big 3 sooner or later I have 4 Crescendo PWX-6s also that I would like to make custom door pods for also. But I'll have to buy tweeters and an amp to run them. And that's getting just a bit ahead of myself for now. Stock door and deck speakers for now. It actually has tweeters and I think a 6in midbass in the doors and 6x9s in the back. I haven't taken the door panels off yet but I think they are boss speakers and they actually sound quite good. Now for the box. My old Pontiac I was the same equipment and I had a 4.6 cube box center port tuned to 32Hz. I would love to be able to use this box again but it happens to be just 2 inches to wide. And I'm not going to just cut it like all of my friends have recommended lol. Now I have 2 ideas. Either a new box 4.6 cubes tuned to 32 hz again but do driver side port. Or a 4th order. I have no experience with 4th orders but I would love to try to build one. But heck i'm not even sure if these subs would like a 4th. I'm not exactly asking for box designs just yet. I just want some opinions on the subject. I'm at school right now but later tonight once I get home I will post my max dimensions. Oh and I forgot to add. My seats do flip down so subs and port will be facing the cabin and will be sealed off of course. Thanks for whoever took the time to read this and thanks for you're guys help in advance.
  22. i cannot decide on the amp to use for my kicker L5 15" 750w rms. I am looking for a mono amp that can put out at least 1000w rms at 2ohms. And a 4 channel amp for my door speaker I was looking at an alpine, cadence, pioneer,sound stream, rockford, audiophile, jbl. The cadence was not cea, and the audiopipe had a bad c /n ratio. and the alpine and rockford were a little expensive. I'm not looking at expensive amps. Something not to much over the 200$ price point.
  23. lanzar 12" flex - b-leget - where is it goin ---------> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_txLaWucBE
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