Toby Ratcliffe

Going to move the box around a bit and test some more. Before moving things around, I would clean up your power and ground wires going into your amp. All of that curling wires could end up shorting if things were moved around at all.

Good video. I would recommend seeing a comparison in distortion using both the jbl, and dd-1 method, and then showing the waveform of the O-scope. That way you could possibly see distortion. Then after that test is done, run a clamp test using both methods to see if there is any power advantages using the DD-1, like I would suspect there is.

Finally I will be able to recommend a line output converter for those that want to stay with their factory deck, and expect a clean signal. Good Job SMD'Amore. (BTW, that should be the official brand with your combined effort products)

I like it, but probably won't be ordering one for this vehicle. I am not feeling a good location for it. Really like the idea of a real time clipping indicator. If there is any way to do that with a single LED, I am in for that.

iClub.fm isn't terrible either.

Have you tried facing it to the rear? A majority of the time, if you can't seal the trunk off, facing the rear is normally louder for trunk installs.

That amp is 1 ohm stable. You might be able to get away with .67 ohms, but I would base that decision based on the power requirements of the subs as well. You are going to get about 1500 watts at 2.67 ohms, and somewhere around 2500 watts at .67. If your subs are looking for 500 watts RMS, stay safe with 2.67. If they can do 1000 Watts RMS, then I would try .67. NVM, just saw that it was the CP version.

Alternator, unless you don't listen with your car on. If you listen with your car off in the driveway, and use a battery charger when you are done listening, then get the batteries.

Yes, Take out the $hit by nines, and do a wall of 4.

I have a very similar setup, and I am happy with it. Sax-1200D and two SA-10D4s. I am using a PWK designed box tuned to 34 Hz. Smooth, accurate bass, just like I wanted.

I just did the big 3 in my jetta yesterday. Every post i have ever seen said I needed to drop the front clip, and put the radiator in the service position. I took off both underbody moldings, and was able to get to the bolt that holds the positive cable just fine. tightening the new cable was a chore, but I broke out my air ratchet and snugged it up tight.

If you could trade them in for dual 4s, that is the route I would go as well.

well unfortunately with two dual 2 ohms subs your wiring options are limited to .5 ohm, 2 ohms, or 8 ohms. Taking into account impedance rise you might be able to get away with .5 ohms on that amp. If it goes into protect, you will need to wire it to 2 ohms. to get .5 ohms, wire it in series, by connecting all of the positives together and the negative together, and then to the amp. to get 2 ohms, you need to wire it in a series parallel configuration by jumping a positive and negative on each sub, and then connecting the remaining positive, and negatives to the amp output.

It appears that the link stays the same for me no matter how many times I update the info. And it is really easy to change the info, so I don't see myself not wanting to update the info. I just ask people to PM me directly.

dual 4, or 2 ohms?

http://batchgeo.com/map/93b3e7dfd7ea8496a6f1640587e3e4cf New map/locating service. Looks like someone with an o-scope is in your area.

Just created a post about it as well. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/137758-smd-audio-tools-map/ Like, PM me to add info, and suggest sticky to mods.

http://batchgeo.com/map/93b3e7dfd7ea8496a6f1640587e3e4cf According to my map, none have volunteered their information in the o-scope DD-1 post. I am looking to add more locations.

At 12 volts running full tilt you will need just over 200A just for the 2.5k RMS amp. So yes, you will need a HO alternator if you plan to run full tilt with the alternator. If you plan on only using it for demos, and charge your batteries in between runs, you could get away with the stock alternator, and a bank of batteries. You will need to run multiple runs from the front to the back of the vehicle as well. Honestly it would be cheaper to get the HO Alternator, an AGM battery (XS Power is what I would recommend) for the front, and a big AGM battery for the rear. I would also run at least two 1/0 runs from the front to the rear.

Yes, but it will be tight, and you will experience a rough ride due to riding on a rubber band. Go to tire.com, so you can see what options you have. Looks like a 20x7.5" wheel with a 40 backspace.

HEAVY

You powering them off an amp, or head unit? component, or coaxial?

wow, talk about fast shipping. Ordered it before lunch on Monday got it just after lunch on Wednesday. Thanks Steve.

you would do step 2, and step7 with the dd-1 instead of an o-scope.

which 12" subs? 4.4 cubes seems like a lot for for some reason. NVM I see it in the description