Dman1320

alright cool. thanks guys

i like the wing nut idea, because it is a family truck, so the box has to be taken out sometimes. is there any way i should go about making sure they're sealed?

OK, i just didn't know if there were some weird bolts that wouldn't conduct a signal or not. and how do i set it up? like what bolts, washers and nuts to use, and how to arrange them?

quick question. what bolts do i use to make the wire terminals on a box like in this pic? wasnt sure what type of hardware to use.

cant view ^

lolwutyou have me confused now mission accomplished fuck yeah

you trollin me? (insert confusion here)

if anyone ever did that, i would punch them in the jijurnum

probably dead battery my friend. take it to and auto parts store and i think they can test them.

i normally just do the mid level ceramics. dont squeak like as budget pads ive had on my trucks, not overpriced, and dont leave too much dust on the chrome wheels.

anybody?

fair enough.

for an elcheapo solution, i have a soundstream rub600.4 running my door speakers. 100w @ 4 ohms, and they sound great to me. but again, it is an elcheapo solution.

blarble.

sometime during the summer, (since im a broke teenager) ill be switching to 4 dc lvl2 10" with d2 coils, so i can wire them all off of one amp at a 1 ohm load. theyll be going in a 5.0^3ft box tuned to 35 hz, in a 1999 suburban. i was thinking about a soundstream rub 2500.1 because it "should" do what i want, i already have a soundstream 600.4 running my doors speakers which i like, and its cheap. would this be a good match up?

holy titty shit, 1313 users reading this topic. you now are richer by 1287 theoretical internet dollars.

Max width is 36, max length is 24, depth isn't really important.

Kenwood excelon 200w rms each 800watt total. Upfiring with port back, trying to tune to about 35hz and not not past 5ft^3

well i think i finally got it figured out size wise. anyone got any other suggestions?

just cant seem to find the displacement for this sub, even in the manual.

this look any better?

i gotcha thanks for looking over my posts and helping me out man.

hi all. well people in this forum convinced me to try and build a new ported box the right way instead of messing with more 12s. so i decided to try a little box designing with torres's calculator. im aiming for a 4 cube box tuned to 35hz on a square/rectangle port with the subs up and port back. im just a little confused by the stuff in the calculator is all. like when the calc tells me theres port bends, and i input a lenght of 20 to get it to 35 hz, will the port be straight back and the lenght the cal gives me or will it be 20in? and i didnt know what to put in for woofer displacement or bracing displacement, for bracing i would use 4 1/2 dowel rods. if anyone has any sugestions as to differnt port or box dimensions so i could get the box right this time, throw them out there. im more than open to suggestions. thanks all!

It's for 4 kenwood excelon xw10dbs. Trying to find good dimensions for around a 4 cube box tuned to 35hz.

That doesn't look too bad, and it looks like its down to about $150 now on amazon. How do you like it, and hows the quality? so far from using it to run my polk db6501s for about 3 months now, that amp is a beast. never been into protect mode with the gains turned 3/4 of the way up, and the head unit at damn near max volume for a half hour to an hour at a time. for a budget amp, its pretty solid imo.