Chris Hammer

Oh hahah yeah I think your right. will this will be locked soon probably. OP what amp will you be running them off of? Those Crescendos are 150w RMS you will need a good amp to push these effectively. These are not mids you just wire to your head unit and run them....you need tweeters and some kind of crossover too...like the polks. You will need a good 4 channel as well. EDIT--I was thinking DB6501 polk components. Those polks are coaxials...I even had those for a while before my MB quart components. They did fine on just head unit power...not screaming but loud enough. You should get a 4 channel though..its worth it. IMO Crescendo would be better if you got some good crossover tweeters and amp...........for your head unit stick with the coaxials.

What do you mean good for Focals? And like said above me you arent supposed to do versus threads. Take the polks off and ask opinions on the crescendo or the opposite but you cant compare the two brands...thats VS. Arent the PWX 6 crescendo's under their pro speaker line? Like professional audio?

Maybe he had a prefab

Awesome...might be waiting on the MA 8's

Not hating but i wouldnt bet on that Mean Machine put out rated power...at least not clean.....and 3krms clean is better than 2.5k dirty.

What kinda amp? Alot of amps either the bass knob controls gain (all the way up is where you set your gain on your amp, and down is all the way down on gain) or some of them are bass boost. If its boost leave it down...and if its gain..than you effectively have the gain all the way down by having the knob down. brz 2100. Then you remote is adjusting the gain...so if you have it all the way down your gain is down. Iif your gain is where it should be... than when you get to 3/4 or so on the knob it is like unpluggin it or having it at whatever your gain adjustment on the amp is. I used to use my knob to turn it down on bass intensive songs and than I could put it back to normal for regular music. I didn't set my gain with a DD-1 or anything, I just set it to the 12 o clock position and called it a day.I don't exactly know where the 2 volt mark is or where it would be, so I just set it to what I thought wouldn't be too much. I usually keep it all the way down and turn it up when on the freeway and whatnot, I will get flamed for this probably but cheap mans way....play a test tone with gain all the way down..Head unit up to where you think distortion starts. Slowly turn the gain up until the cone on your subs does not travel any farther...like they hit a peak excursion wise...back the gain off some and call it a day just dont get too happy with it and you should be alright.... Not perfect but should get you by. I dont have a DD-1 yet or access to an oscope or a way to clamp it so I have been doing this for a while. Man I can already feel someone glaring at my advice right now getting ready to put it on blast but when you can only spend 500$ on your setup a DD-1 or oscope is out of budget. My friend out in Pontiac knows this kid Kyle who tunes your amp with a DD-1 for 15 dollars. Just gotta get the gas money to go out there. That would be worth in IMHO

What kinda amp? Alot of amps either the bass knob controls gain (all the way up is where you set your gain on your amp, and down is all the way down on gain) or some of them are bass boost. If its boost leave it down...and if its gain..than you effectively have the gain all the way down by having the knob down. brz 2100. Then you remote is adjusting the gain...so if you have it all the way down your gain is down. Iif your gain is where it should be... than when you get to 3/4 or so on the knob it is like unpluggin it or having it at whatever your gain adjustment on the amp is. I used to use my knob to turn it down on bass intensive songs and than I could put it back to normal for regular music. I didn't set my gain with a DD-1 or anything, I just set it to the 12 o clock position and called it a day.I don't exactly know where the 2 volt mark is or where it would be, so I just set it to what I thought wouldn't be too much. I usually keep it all the way down and turn it up when on the freeway and whatnot, I will get flamed for this probably but cheap mans way....play a test tone with gain all the way down..Head unit up to where you think distortion starts. Slowly turn the gain up until the cone on your subs does not travel any farther...like they hit a peak excursion wise...back the gain off some and call it a day just dont get too happy with it and you should be alright.... Not perfect but should get you by. I dont have a DD-1 yet or access to an oscope or a way to clamp it so I have been doing this for a while. Man I can already feel someone glaring at my advice right now getting ready to put it on blast but when you can only spend 500$ on your setup a DD-1 or oscope is out of budget. OP sorry for the thread jack. I dont think it would be beneficial going to sundown because you will lose money and imo I dont think the difference would be worth it. Why not stick with the DD 10" you were trying to sell earlier....sell the 12" and get another 10" than run dual 10's like you said before.

You need a sub that will perform well in a T-line. You cant just throw any sub in and expect it to be good. What sub are you planning on trying it with? Is it something small(I hope) because T-lines for 12/15" drivers come out frikken huge lol. I sketched one out for a single 15 that took up the entire back half of my CrewCab Canyon LOL

Almost any threads that gets started on here that say " x brand or y brand " or ask what is better, even in their application ,gets closed as a VS thread. You are better off asking some people to post experiences with a certain sub, without naming the sub you are comparing too. IMHO -- Some VS. threads would actually be a good thing...same power -optimal box- same test enviroment...and list results including response etc.... but usually these threads result in the my brand is better than yours crap....and numbers / loudness/ performance vary vastly when it comes to just vehicles...let alone enclosure/amp/batteries/wire etc. Comparing any brand to another is a VS.

What kinda amp? Alot of amps either the bass knob controls gain (all the way up is where you set your gain on your amp, and down is all the way down on gain) or some of them are bass boost. If its boost leave it down...and if its gain..than you effectively have the gain all the way down by having the knob down. brz 2100. Then you remote is adjusting the gain...so if you have it all the way down your gain is down. Iif your gain is where it should be... than when you get to 3/4 or so on the knob it is like unpluggin it or having it at whatever your gain adjustment on the amp is. I used to use my knob to turn it down on bass intensive songs and than I could put it back to normal for regular music.

What kinda amp? Alot of amps either the bass knob controls gain (all the way up is where you set your gain on your amp, and down is all the way down on gain) or some of them are bass boost. If its boost leave it down...and if its gain..than you effectively have the gain all the way down by having the knob down. Also why you so mad Apline gets post in before close. Essentially everyone in here is post farming because at as a community we shouldnt support threads that go against the rules....

It looks good...between the double baffle and rod should be sturdy...Are you going to Resin/fiberglass the inside at all?

K will theres one....just saying in a general sense...I'm sure there are some people who dislike almost any brand out there. But OP you already had a 10" DD than a 12" DD what are looking for that you think you can get by switching brands?? You might be better off building or changing enclosures till you find tuning size etc that you like.

Versus threads are not allowed.. You could ask what other experiences are with sundowns equipment but I think you already know the answer...they are well liked... As witnessed when someone asks "what sub should I get?" Its always Sundown DC Skar AA DD etc. There are nuthuggers for both brands and each sub will do better in a certain area. So you need to figure out what you are looking for out of your setup than pick the subwoofers based on that...not so much the Brand but their specs. Also IB4L Also arent you the same person who posted up a FS thread with only a 2 post count. Bro they are called rules...takes all of 30seconds to read....get at it.

Huh? I thought thats why you redo factory grounds? I dont know if I'm understanding what you mean correctly though?

Depending on how serious his system is and power he is running CCA might not support the current load he has in mind.... Another alternative to buying OFC audio cable from a big name is Welding cable. https://weldingsupply.securesites.net/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms::PA or this guy...I'll probably buy mine here as Trystar has a good reputation and he has great prices. http://www.ebay.com/sch/coppercableman/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

I would run both just for piece of mind lol. But I think overkill is better than not enough..or "what I can get away with" I had the ground from the amp go to the battery in the back...from that same post ran a ground to the front and a ground to the chassis...plus the big 3 and I used a bracket to ground instead of a bolt/washer method. And that was only for 1200w LOL.

+1 For the BRZ not the greatest amps ever but power to cost ratio is hard to beat and they do pretty much rated.

How much power do you really need? What subs are you looking at running....what kind of electrical do you have? Tell us about your ride and someone can help you out with choosing a better amplifier.

Its got a 70amp fuse. At 14.4volts you might get 1000w but it would probably be clipped. Just for comparison sake...my old BRZ1200 was fused for 140 amps....double the fuses for 1200w....the fuses dont tell you exactly the output of the amp will be but it couldnt push anywhere close to 4400 watts before popping the 70 amp fuse. General rule is..if the price looks to good to be true it probably is. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TEZVYK/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0072LBS2O&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1QB3DHBX7AQ0T1QEJ3J9

Just by the name my vote is NO. But Imma look it up right now....my bet is its a 4400w MAX AB amp

Still sounds blown. If you hhok up your multimeter and it comes up 5ohm or 12 or 16 or anything other than whats it supposed to be. I think 2ohm subs read like 1.6 or something I can't remember right now.

If you are running 2 of them yes..combines RMS 2500 watts and I'm sure they can take more(clean) power. If you are planning on a single sub setup than somehting along this line http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/zcon-18-sound-solutions-audio-18-2250w-zcon-series-subwoofer.html or http://www.ascendantaudio.com/mayhem.php or http://dcsoundlab.com/level4.html And there are plenty other choices as well.

I thought he was looking for dual dub setup? Says subs in the original post. Maybe I misread though. Probably I am at work so I scan alot. I wouldnt have recommended ICONs if I thought he wanted a single setup LOL

It's possible to run the 2-SA's on that amp but being you said yourself that you are a noob I wouldn't. Clip = poof and when your overpowering them that much it wont take alot.... you could set your gain down but whats the fun of having 2500+ watts if you dont want to use them. How much room do you have to work with what car? What about something like http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/icon.html ICONs from SSA 1250wrms puts em perfectly in your power range if you are running two. They make em 10"-18" so if you could get away with the room you can do dual 18's have a little more wow factor than the dual 15's.