Sinewave

I have a Stag Arms M4 that took a whole bunch of rounds to break in. At first the trigger felt like a ton of bricks to pull, but it's much easier now after putting rounds down range. How long/ how many rounds have you fired for this AR?

Im glad you decided against it. Ive never been a fan of the sound from an added center channel when listening to stereo source material....it never sounded natural to me in IMO. By the time you get done tuning, you systems imaging will give that center stage naturally. Keep up the good work sir

the top should be held in with a melted post that rivits in to the panel. You can drill these (only the melted part) out and epoxy it back together or glue a bolt backwards or threads into the post. Your going to have to get creative. Also is that door covered in factory brown vinyl now? your going to have to remove that is you want your resin/filler to stick.

Steve I can't wait to see this a CES this year.

The Green wire (that changes to red) mounts from the solenoid and goes directly to the output post of the alternator...this is how the DC charge from the alternator get back to the battery. You could go from the output post of the alternator to the battery directly without contacting the starter.

Well last night after the gym I was feeling frogy so I upgraded my power wires to my 2004 Cavalier and took some photos, and thought I would share. First the main factory power wire splits from the battery to the accessory fuse box and to the stater solenoid. From the same post of the starter solenoid a small wire (AND I MEAN SMALL WIRE) runs to the output post on the alternator. It's a bit tight but a 13mm socket and wobble will get the job done. I am only going to outline the steps I took to upgrade the output from the alternator to the battery. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!! Pull the air box for room No access from the top....going to have to get under the car. This is the solenoid located almost dead center under the car. The red wire is the factory power wire from the battery and the SMALL green wire is going to the output post of the alternator. Both of these wires are on the same threaded post of the solenoid...13mm socket to remove. Note: The green wire changes over to red after the fuse link. Red wire is the alternator output. Wires removed. Factory alternator output wire vs. 4 gauge. Factor wire from battery to solenoid vs. 4 gauge vs. 0 gauge...Not terrible I have seen worse. Making cables. Cables made...I wish I would of had some shrink tube laying around..Gives me a reason to go buy some. Note: Keep the alternator post cover and reuse it on your new wires. Replaced both cables to the solenoid. One runs back to the alternator and the other up to the battery. Finished. Now before anyone says it I know I need to add a fuse to the line from solenoid to battery as close to the battery as possible...but this car is not going anywhere for the moment and I will add it tonight. What can I say it was late and I wanted to get this up on the site. I hope this helps.

I just bought a 2004 Cavalier for a daily driver last week. I started upgrading the charging system wiring this weekend (even without any stereo in it). I did the grounds to the body and block. I also upgraded the accesory fusebox, but I have not run to the Alt as I was low on time and as you said it is a bit burried. Im going to tackle this Wed night if you can wait. I'll hit you up with the info and pictures.

You have built a lot on this car, but this shot...WOW. It may be the smallest part of the build, but It looks F'ing KILLER!!

Props on hiding all of those wires Steve...Wow!! Other than the plugs inserts it looks like the trunk is about done.

I feel for ya brother...look at the bright side at least you don't have to sand it down to paint grade.lol Looks solid and your finger prints will grow back someday. Blood, sweat, and tears = bad ass builds. It's turning out awesome.

That stiching & uphosltry turned out really nice! Again I dont envy all of the wiring you have to do, but your keeping it clean and organized.... That's hard to do when your working with multiple wires the size of your average garden hose in tight quarters...lol Good Job buddy

Agreed!!

I like the trick of adding pigment to your resin...It would help gauge saturation, and air pockets. Im adding that to the tool belt. How are you going to route the RCA outputs from your 3Sixty to your amps?...the panels that cover your trunk lid hinges look to have tight tolerences. Are you going to run them inside of the hinges??

Was the 15" a dual 1 or 2 ohm sub? I would imagine it is a dual 2 and now with the 2 x 2500BD they will be BD synced at a 4 ohm load, but I guess you could push it to 1 ohm for 5K watts if Steve is feeling froggy.....good thing there is a lot of air moving

Get that car a Flu shot......cause it's looking SICK. Nice save on the panels, glad I dont have to wrap those curves....

2 Things 1. I want to see the smoke trick....cause what could be cooler than visualizing the CFM those fans move 2. What kind of material or materials are you thinking of covering those panels with?

Silver, Copper, Gold, and Aluminum....

I agree with TheScottishBear...your layers are not thick enough when you pull your mold. I never use a mold wax only foil, the trick to strength is to lay your matting down and saturate with resin without air pockets, and sags. A good fiberglass roller is priceless, it will save on material and overall time. Also how is you ratio of resin to MEKP?

NOS is eating your real estate...(and yo tires) What do you have in the trunck 2x 2500, 1000-4 or 600-4 and a 400-2 Any way to use matching 4 Channel amps for symmetry of the layout? or will the panel cover most of the bottom amps?