Tim Lam

Are there any teams in the Middle Tennessee area?

nope. keep those kickers at 2ohms. NOTHING LOWER.

funny enough my friend had a similar problem in his Civic. we installed a new alpine and checked all the wiring and the electrical in the car about 3 times, and with so much frustration, he took it to cartronics(i hate the place) and they found it was a TINY 10amp fuse in his car's fusebox. in short, check your fuses.

i dont exactly know what you mean by choking? but i have had amazing results with where it is right now anyways. Yes! aeroports ftw

thats literally perfect for those subs. a little under 3 cubes per sub with those dimensions. im personally a Aeroport guy, so my set up is just a plain box(with internal bracing of course) with a 6" aeroport tuned to ~31Hz. it sounds great. i run both of mine in a single chamber(it saves space) and just have the port between the 2 subs. aero's are also great because of how easy it is to tune them. just just a little plastic here or there. slot ports, if you want to change the tuning, you have to take the box apart or build a new one. that's my opinion

haha i got a Kinetik hc1400 for $180 off of amazon. But OP, i would suggest a Kinetik HC1800! ordered mine off of amazon for $220 and i know from experience these things are a lightning bolt in a box!

well if it's blinking red, its not something you can fix. have to send it in to get repaired or get a new one. ...unless you're good a fixing amps.

lol he said he wanted a cheap price. OP, look into hifonics, audiopipe, and lanzar. They arent bad for the buck. ah yes, you're right. sorry OP. guess cheap is in the eye of the beholder. and i have seen some very good things about the Hifonics Colossus!

my friend powered his 2 L7's with a Memphis Mojo 4K. and HOLY SHIT, my ears were about to pop. Memphis mojo 4K. get it.

well i know for a fact, that alpine LOVES sticking with the 2OHM stable amps yes they do carry 1ohm amps, but generally 2ohms. with that being said, we see again the most power at 2ohms. im guessing since it's digital, the comp realizes it's less resistance, and i'm guessing the 1000rms at 1ohm is a sort of digital safe mode? idk really but i just know alpine likes 2ohms and they'er damn good amps.

i would just tape up the wires, remove the fuse like stated before(from the battery to the amp). and completely remove the amp. the wiring is fine if its just there protected, but if your amp is just sliding around it would cause a lot of stress on the wires and possibly ruining your ground cable. well that was the case for me one time anyways...

yeah, you're going to have to get a seperate power supply for it(obviously haha) but there's a reason why home audio uses lower power for speakers. plus a house is a much better listening environment, so 2500rms is a bit of overkill. not to mention your electric bill after using that for a month, ouch...

aw so you're saying if he fucks up, the blame could be on me?

LOVE the port btw, where did you get it? and get it colored?

if room is not a concern, i would just battery bank it. since you already have the iraggi alt, i would add a second alt if you still got voltage drops after the battery bank. just my $.02

thats some beefy ass wire lol. umm idk why you would want to connect your alternator to your SECOND battery. i would just hook up your second battery to your wet cell(under the hood). and i see many people using 2/0 awg and having no problems. but if you can find the gear for that 4/0(seeing as how you probably put a dent in your wallet getting it), all the power to you man!

well space is an issue i suggest going with an Aeroport. they sound amazing and i prefer the sound over a slot port. aero's are also much easier to tune and can be changed easier than slots. 6" aeroport atleast

why would i not do that? it's helpful

oh btw that amp is 1ohm stable. so i would hope those subs are 4ohm DVC so you can wire down to 1 ohm. and it's the same concept

it will look something like this just make sure that the amp is.5ohm stable.

to run to .5 ohms with TWO subs, you need them to be 2ohm DVC. wire the subs in parallel(connect the positive to positive and neg to neg on a single sub, do the same on the other) than wire the two subs in parallel again, pos from 1 sub to pos on other sub, and neg on 1 sub to other sub.

true but the cost and efforts may even out, seeing as how he will need to get another serpentine belt to fit the length of the added alternator, a new bracket thats durable enough to hold the 2nd alternator and all the complicated stuff. 1 H/O alternator may be more expensive but as long as its a reliable brand, it might save a lot of trouble down the road too.

DC power, Mechman are good reliable brands. and like many people said the alternator is not something to go cheap on. it's like having surgery and asking for a replacement lung from a smoker. just not a good idea.

i prefer the Kicker anl fuses, but i guess a fuse is a fuse. and i think 250amp fuses would suite you fine for your power draw.

well the equation for Watts is AmpsxVolts so if you have a 3500watt system and your car idles at 14V, you'll need 250amps which comes from the alternator. but you also have to figure in the draws from the stock electricals of the car itself. the actual draw of the amp is something you have to take a multimeter to, these people on here are just guessing how efficient that amp is at .5 ohms