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Found 42 results

  1. hey wassup guys im doing my install in my 1970 mercedes 280sel it has a inline 6 with a 35 amp alternator ive looked for bigger alternators and i cant find any and i was wondering if you had any tips i will be running eathier a audiopipe 3000 watt or two sundown 1500 amps with to 700 watt rms 4 channels all info is welcome thanks
  2. Hey guys, New to the forums as a member, but not new as a reader. I have recently purchased a car that I want to "do right" from the start and wanted some input. I have done a lot of searching, but it seems that I could not find a similar situation already posted. 2006 Dodge Magnum SXT (3.5L) Questions 1) The main battery is already in the trunk of the car (next to the spare tire). This already has what seems to be factory 1/0 gauge wiring running to it from the alternator. So my question is. a) Do I stick with this wire or rewire it with aftermarket wire. If I stick with this wire, should I fuse it before the battery (it currently is not fused). 2) I also want to run 2 more batteries. Should I make a separate run from the alternators to these batteries, or simply hook these batteries up to the main battery and run them like that? 3) Will doing the "big 3" mean as much to me, since the initial run to the main battery (and future additional batteries) be so long (at least for the power wire). 4) Depending on if I keep the current main power wire, or run multiple runs, will either of those affect if the 2 additional batteries (which will be the same) are different from the main battery? I am planning on running around 3000-4000 watts RMS total (including mids and highs) for this car. I have already ordered a 320 amp hairpin Singer alternator. Any knowledge is much appreciated. The thing that is throwing me off from reading most posts is the main battery is already in the back.
  3. Has anyone used BatteryShark.com before? They seem to be legit and the prices are phenomenal. Naturally, I wanted to see if anyone has dealt with them before I buy. One more question... What is the difference, if any, between the a standard AGM (such as a D3400) and a UPS high-rate discharge battery (NorthStar NSB-12-400)? Would the UPS be viable? Thanks in advance.
  4. just got a 2400 kinetic battery.... should i leave my old capacitor in my car to? so i have from my starter battery to my audio battery, from the audio battery to the cap, and from the cap to the amp? or should i just take the cap out and go straight from the kinetic to the amp?
  5. Hey guys, noobie here. I need some help on this project I want to do. I want to have a oil pressure gauge, water temp gauge, and a manifold vacuum gauge. My plan is to have 3 gauge pods on top of a single din spacer and Plexiglass, fabricated in the bezel.The single din spacer is where i can place and have my wires organized, and the Plexiglass is where I will be mounting the gauge pods on top of. Here are some pics of the bezel. Single din spacer taped to it. Here i have the gauge pods temporarily set on the single din spacer but its where the plexiglass will be. they are autometer angeled gauge rings #2234 that I bought. I was going to epoxy the single din spacer and plexiglass to the bezel, and epoxy the angled gauge pods to the Plexiglass, then cutting a hole in the plexiglass so the gauges can go in, but didnt know what to do about the empty gaps. Sorry for not uploading a pic of the plexiglass on top of the single din spacer, didnt have it cut out yet. My question is, how do I make the gauge pods one piece with the bezel? Is there some sort of filler to fill in those gaps and make it one piece? And if so what type of filler should I use? And what steps should I take If you guys have any suggestions or advice please tell me. Thanks.
  6. Right now I am running a SQ2200 (sub) and a MB Quart 800.4 (mids/highs) off of a stock 120 amp alternator. I have the Big 3 done with 1/0 and a XS Power D3400 up front. I was looking at 220 amp alts and was wondering if it would make a difference with my system. TIA
  7. hello everyone. I recently had a small short out under my hood. The fuse holder in-between my front and rear batteries came in contact with the battery tray. Shorting out. melted the fuse holder into a ball of goo. luckally it put itself out from all the melting rubber from the 0 gauage cable. Now, all i have done is.. cut off the section of burnt cable and replace the fuse holder. But now i have voltage problems. I used to only drop to 13.1v before the misshap. Now i have drops to 11.1v all the time. sometimes even drop to 10.5v whitch shuts my amp down putting it into protection mode. boo. this is what i have. DC power alt 320amp, 2 kinetik hc800 under hood, 2 kinetik hc2400b in the trunk. rockford fosgate 0 gauge cable(one run front to back + side) grounded to the uni-body. Amp is a MA Audio HK4000D pushing two 15" RE Audio XXX. So, My question is... Is my once burnt cable possibly the problem? Or maybe a cell went bad? or both? How and where can i get these batteries tested? Auto zone test is not accurate.
  8. i want to add a small second battery to my system im putting it in a 08 honda civic ... im not sure what the alternator exact output is but im guessing its 90amps ... i have a duralast gold under the hood right now and was going to add an xs power d375 in the back (duralast 625-ca,85-Rm) (xspower190-ca,rc-15,ah-14) .......... will this be OK to run without getting a H/O alternator ???? :huh2: :huh2:
  9. Here's What I Have In My 2011 Chevy Impala Crescendo BC 3500 2 Re Audio Sxx D415 Wired To One Ohm Yellow Top Battery Under Hood DC Power 300 Alt Amp 0 Gauge Wire From Alt Post To Battery Positive & 0 Gauge Wire From Battery Negative Post To Frame 0 Gauge Wire From Battery Positive to Fuse To Cap Then To Amp Stinger Cap Problems: Lights are Dimming At Idle And While Driving Every Since I Put The New Alt On I Been Getting The Service Charging System Message I Think Its Because of The Juice The Alt Is Puttin Out. The Car Hasn't Cut Off On Me Ever Nor Have I Ever Had Problems With It Starting Like A Dead Battery. I Tested The Alt With The Car Off It Read 12.6 Started The Car And It Went To Like 14.5 So Its Charging. I Think The Cap Is Holding The System Back Should I Remove It? How Do I Add Another Battery? I Have the Other Wire For The Big Three Its Just A Pain To Put On On This Car Any Advice You Experts Can Give Me I Will Be Thankful For It
  10. Hey I recently bought a sundown amp but I am a little confused on how to wire it up. They show a diagram in the owners manual but I don't really understand it. It's a monoblock amp but it has dual out puts. Do I just use one of the positives and negatives? Or do I just take 2 from the positive out put and connect them together and then do the same thing with the negative output? I know I could probably guess and it would work but I just wanted to know what the best way was.
  11. My options are between singer and dc power. I have heard good things about both. I contacted singer and he said that he can make me an 180 amp alternator and it would take between 2 - weeks. I contacted dc and they have the 250 and 270xp for me and said it would take 14 days to build. I want to go with the 270xp because its more amps and heard good things about them but read a lot about how long people have to wait to get alternators from them and when I did try to place my order I can't seem to get in touch with anyone and I have been calling a lot. So my question is should I just go with the 180 from singer or wait on the 270 from dc?
  12. If you got capacitors for your system, post pics of your setup and specs and total watts. I'm looking to do a capacitor setup for a system of 4,000w total peak.
  13. First off, 1996 Honda accord station wagon. 329 amp hairpin alternator. Big 3 is completed with 0 gauge wire from sky high. 3400 XS battery up front. I am keeping the air conditioning. Could possibly consider cutting a hole in the hood to fit a 2nd alternator *in the future* but not now. What i am trying to learn, is how to figure out how many batteries I need to sustain X voltage. I know about amp hours. I know my alternator came with paperwork saying it is rated at 4,890 watts. What I don't know, is how to figure out how many batteries I need once I go above that 4,890 watts. How do I figure out how many batteries I need for 6k watts? 10k? 16k? 20k? I know I could just throw 30 tractor batteries at it, I don't want a hand out. I want to learn the math behind figuring out how many batteries I will need. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  14. Hey guys, just want you opinion before I purchase this. I want to make my setup look cleaner. This should also make my installs go much easier as well. Was thinking about mounting somewhere in the trunk. Do you think this would work? I will have (2) Q2200.1's, (1) Q4-120, and a Kenwood XR400-4 coming off it. Will have all my batteries in parallel off this as well (total of 4 batteries). What do you guys think? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJUZUMI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1NZSGX8D9PVM7 Thanks
  15. I am in the process of starting my build in my 2000 mountaineer. And want to ground everything thru frame I have an idea of how to do this but would appreciate some tips / help. I have only done unibody cars grounding to shocktower. Do I go thru existing hole in frame or make new one. I am going to use bolt washer and locknut and locktight blue. Pics please. Thankyou
  16. Guys, I recently posted about installing a new Head Unit in my girlfriends Santa Fe. BTW ( super challenging install for a double DIN) Pioneer AVH-2400bt. Bangin' Head unit but super hard to install ( also without soldering iron). So s i was installing i noticed everything still worked fine in the form of stock functions (minus steering wheel controls) then i tried connecting steering wheel controls without knowing what i was doing and seemed to have broken the interior lights. LED's backing the gauge cluster, shifter, and on the A/c panel now do not work. From the many wiring diagrams i have read there are two identified wires going into the stock harness. I had the appropriate orange and black wire attached to the dimmer function on my Head unit. The yellow wire supplies power to the "illumination" the yellow wire is labeled "illumination (+), the third unidentified but guessable wire is the small black wire, not the wire to chassis ground. there are other wires in there that i did mess with but these stuck out to me for a couple of reasons. One is that when I went to wire the steering wheel controls i forgot that the small yellow wire was Illumination (+) and hooked it up to the black wire (assumed illumination (-) wire) and at this point, im guessing, i made the error. Most of the time the dimmer wire was connected, and i seem to remember one time i was testing the HU and the interior lights still working. They seemed to have stopped working when i started messing with steering wheel controls and wired the yellow to black. So my guess is that i may have shorted the lights inside and blown a fuse. Problem: I went and took a while and studied the fuses and the car owners manual and started checking for blown fuses. None of them appeared to be blackened/ blown at all. Although, i actually only pulled two hypothesized fuses out and checked them. They weren't blown. What do i do?! The car is literally almost un-driveable at night because there's no light on the gauges so you can't see how fast you are going. PLEASE help or at least maybe a similar problem?
  17. i have a diehard platinum and was wondering if it ok if the battery charges at 15.0 volts when the alt cold and drop to 14.7 when it hot? I added one diode and my system charges at 14.0 when im stopped at a light and when im moving it charges at 14.3. So i might think when i start it up cold it might be charging at 15.3 15.4.. So please someone chime in and help thanks,
  18. Hi, I drive a 2004 Buick LeSabre with stock alternator and stock electrical wiring. I believe I have finalized my decision on what system I want next, which is either: Option A SCV-1500d + 1 X-12 @ 1 ohm Option B SCV-2000d + 1 Zv4-15 @ 1 ohm Now, here is my predicament. Either way whichever one of these systems I finally decide on, I will most certainly need an upgrade on my electrical system. Being that Option A equates to roughly $850 and Option B equates to roughly $1200, I'm trying to find the best single upgrade I can make to increase my voltage or attempt to make it constant so I don't experience any drop in sound. My total budget was $2000 for this build. I still need a custom box, and probably 0 gauge wire for either option, which probably eliminates Option B, sadly. TL;DR: Best upgrade to keep my voltage high?
  19. i just got a sundown sae 1200d amp and was wondering what all i should do to my electrical to keep it from clipping or burning out. i just got everything for the big 3 today and i am installing that stuff tomorrow but didn't know if i'd need an extra battery on top of it?
  20. were can i find bus bars ??? looking for a small piece about a 1-2 inch thick 4-5 inch long and wide enough to fit on a battery terminal
  21. What's a good reference point to upgrade the stock car's electric system, rather than waiting until the lights are dimming like mad and the alternator dies? Is there a minimum wattage before things like the Big 3 and Battery changes are required? Comment what you guys have done. Thanks!
  22. I had recently posted a thread but it gives me an error when i try to open it, well here i go again, Hello to everyone im new in the forum and i just want to add im not a noob in car audio but im not a professional as well, i do understand most of the things that consist in car audio, now heres my question i bought a system for very cheap, 150 dollars got a power acoustik mofo 12 dual 2 ohm and a Hifonics GLX1400d box is tuned to like 34 or 35 hertz, its actually pretty loud now i understand power acoustik is not that good but this mofo is actually not bad for wat i got it for, i install all of this in a 2004 chevy cavalier with stock electrical, this car comes with a 105 amp alternator which is not to bad for the size of the car, im using real 2 gauge cable to connect the amp to the battery and ground, i did this installation in a rush yesterday because im going to travel tomorrow all the way to salt lake city from NM, so i wasnt able to set the gains with my multimeter i did everything by ear heres my problem though i think i set the gains pretty good i, method i used was getting a hard hitting song lowering all gain down and then turning it up till the subwoofer wouldnt get any louder then i lower it a bit more, bass boost is all the way down, bass level on head unit is all the way down, i have a alpine deck so it has a subwoofer feature that i need to use at +15 other wise the subwoofer wont even move, im only using 14 gauge speaker wire to connect this subwoofer idk if that matters, i got stock wal mart battery havent even done the big 3 upgrade yet like i said i really dont have time for that right now, the subwoofer was getting real hot within the 5 minutes of playing it on full tilt and it was getting kinda smelly but not alot, so i thought i was either overpowering the sub or sending clipping signal, checked voltage at battery and volts wont drop from 13.70 V in the hardest hitting song i could find, then i checked the voltage on the amp and the amp would stay around 12.50- 12.70 13.00V but heres the thing on a song that has a really long consistent bass note the voltage on the amp would randomly dropped from the voltage i said above down to like 11.7 even 10.8 but this only happens for like less then a second it happens really fast then goes back to above 12.5V on the same bass note of the song i was wondering if this could be like a bad ground somewhere in the car because i got the ground from a bolt on the seat didnt even sand anything because i was in my uncles house and i ran out of light and another question is how come i read above 13.70 volts on the battery but alot less on the amp?
  23. I am hoping there is a simple answer for my question. I have 2 hds312's powered by 2 ct sounds 1400.1 at 2 ohms, 3 pairs of soundqubed pro audio mids powered by an 800.4 MB Quartz 2 pairs of crescendo ft1's powered by a MB Quartz 200.2. 3 odyssey pc1700 in the trunk a yellow top up front and 200 amp alternator. however when i am playing my music i am taking some serious voltage hits as bad as 1.8 at that point i let up on the knob. Any ideas as to why? Everything is ran with 0 gauge cable. I am at a wits end any assistance would be highly appreciated. i also tuned everything with a DD1 as well. not sure if it matters but i am running the Japanese version of a DEH80 prs as far as my head unit goes
  24. I am getting ready to do my build and I want to make sure I am well prepared. I currently have a 300a HO alternator and a Xstatic Batcap 2000 in the rear and just a regular Duralast Gold up front. All 1/0 wiring throughout. I am running about 3.5kw watts. Will this be enough to support my system? I will be playing with the vehicle powered on and will never play with it off. I'm just wondering if I should get a different battery up front, add another rear battery or leave it as is. I went with the Xstatic Batcap because I got it for a good price when I bought my alternator but after doing some reading I have read that it doesn't have much reserve capacity and is good for burps and not so much daily....not sure how true that is. Thanks for any help!
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