ear2ear

Me too. Blank screen - just sits there...

I completely removed & replaced mine. Hammer and chisel work. Ground it all clean with a wire wheel. Painted with POR15. Then installed Damp Pro over everything. In hindsight it was too much work. Today I would use some Spectrum or even Sludge.

Constraint Layer Dampers do not just remove "rattles". It reduces panel resonance. A rattle is where 2 pieces tough/rub/click/slap together. Road noise and other noise is transmitted through the sheetmetal that you don't even realize. My brand new truck didn't have any "rattles", but applying a layer of damp pro sure made a difference. It took road noise from a SHSHSH down to a shshshsh. Now my audio has less to compete with.

^^^What he said. How long is that 4ga run? Also do a quick check on the ground for that amp. Clean shiny metal - no corrosion.

Are those all inside port dimensions? Some of them do not add up.

This is going in the trunk, not the back seat. Since you asked for dims: 17" tall, 37.5" wide, 39" deep. Yes, i've measured. It will fit. My bad - reading > me So even with enough room in the trunk, there's not enough room on the baffle for a port. Anyway, what I meant originally was measure the current box and these guys might tell you why it sounds the way it does.

12cu ft in the back seat of a Jetta? You should measure it and the port and post your dimensions here.

Have access to a table saw? Plunge cuts make this really easy. Then clean up the corners with a jig saw. This is a window brace, but same concept:

Well your dimensions give you 8.75 gross. I would work backwards from there. Definately not room for 4 12s or 2 15s really.

I ran some numbers through Torres earlier and sketched a baffle in CAD. Assuming 15.5" O.D. woofers and single layer 3/4" all arround. You can barely fit a 15" x 15" square port on a diamond (rotated 45 deg.) That's 225 sq in. The problem is the length of the port. It's length is not much less than the required depth of the box for your 16 cubes. And you would need minimum 15" clear behind it to the back. So, over half the port length would have to be external.

Yeah, seems wierd to have it in the front. But it's a progression of things. I was trying to do the back, but it was screwing with my port area & also I could never get to the fuses. I may build a center console that flows into the battery area. For now I'll make a nice cover. I hear ya. I already filled up the extra battery spot under the hood though.

New box design. It's actually 2" shorter than the sealed box, but takes up the entire rear.

Well, thanks for all the kind words and condolences. That thing met all my design critera except being loud. One of the things I wanted was to be below the window line. It was already borderline so raising it wasn't an option. Cutting some of the false floor out was an option, but so much crap was integrated underneath. Maybe gain a bit, but never what it should be. So yeah, I'm well into my new ported box. 9 cubes net 138 sq in @ 33ish Hz subs up / ports up Anybody see any real problems with those specs? It's another intricate box, but at least a simple concept. Old T1 12's getting ~800 watts a piece. rap, dubstep, top 40, a lil country Thanks

OK I had the whole thing typed out so I could post fairly quickly. Hope it was enough pics and not too many posts. Anyway, I have an explanation in the 7th post. Maybe go back up and read it. Then feel free to ask any other questions. The damn thing was really a bandpass with some kind of stupid tune. SQ was great, but no output. I've never seen woofers move so much with so little output. That's why I tripple checked wiring for phase.

This is the last picture before we lifted it onto the false floor. 20 minutes later I was pissed and never took a “nice” picture with the blue LEDs and all that BS. The output absolutely sucked. I could have done an under-the-seat ported 10 and been happier. SQ was actually pretty good. Really tight and it played everything. But I doubt it did a 130. I dunno. No videos. No flex. All wired in phase. I checked with a battery even though I have pictures of them wired correctly. So anyway, looking back the design flaw is really obvious. Since the 3" opening was only on the front of the box it was acting like a quasi bandpass. Well, it was a bandpass. I am an engineer and this pisses me off, because a simple realization that my “port” area was less than my cone area would have saved me. Moral of the story: Downfiring into a barrier to load the woofers isn’t bad, but they must have room to breathe. The whole damn thing went in the dumpster.

Planning wiring. Wooden battery terminals don’t conduct - lol Amps mounted. Planning wiring. False floor ready to bolt down. Bolted down. Made brackets to fit the stock seat mounting studs. Loading woofers. Installing box.

Back view - still open. Back installed. Cubby routed out. Bottom view. Note 3” lip all around except front. Fiberglass cloth along all seams / intersections. Test fit on raw false floor. See the “ports”? FAIL Under false floor. Top of false floor. The box bolts to the cleats on these 3 sides. T-nuts work a lot better in oak!

Sides and lower front. Upper sides and main front. I trimmed this board and should not have. Now filling the gap. Problem solved. All together except the back. Aluminum square tube wire chases through box. Battery cubby and wire chases. Clearance.

Everything cut. Dry fit. At this point I was thrilled it all fit together. Did some roundoverz on the windowzz. Drilling for T-nuts. BTW they suck in MDF. Gluing baffle 1 with braces/divider to baffle 2: Upper assembly. Upper & lower assemblies. All the guts together.

1 of 2 baffles. Window bracing and center divider / battery cubby sides. Plunge cuts. All trimmed at the same time - same saw setting. Horizontal window brace / battery cubby bottom. Compound miter saw only goes 1 direction - bust out the jigsaw. Some weird cuts/bevels to make up the front corners of the box.

Hopefully others can learn from my mistake 2009 Extended Cab Sierra - back seat gone 4 - RF T1 12s (old version - 600 RMS) 1 - RF T2500-1bd (3240 birthsheet) Did some research - talked to the RF dealer in town. So I thought I was going to be Mr. SQL and do sealed / downfiring. By the suggestion of said RF dealer I built a false floor and fired the woofers into it. He said about 3” of space would be ok and called it an intimate barrier. To his credit it may have worked with the 3” gap around the whole box...you’ll see in the pics... I might as well post the whole box build. It was on the old RF forum. I use Inventor software.