Kicker Guy

I use to like RF a lot, not so much anymore...but thats just me

personally I would go with the kicker CVTs myself

I thought he meant the battery ground.... now i wonder which one he is tallking about

yes pics would help of your setup, also what kind of car is this in?

That will work good

lol yea the kicker part is obvious... I had 2 KX1200.1 going to 2 L712D2s, cheapo 6x9s in the deck and focals 6.5s up front with Eclpise 8443 HU... nothing great but worked for me

2001 GTP special edition

Hello all, I found you by a frind of mine who told me about some guy havin 4 18s with 20,000 watts so I had to come check it out! I don't even have a car right now thanks to a drunk driver so I can't really post pics of a system lol. Still waiting on insurance to payout. Will post pics when I get the new car and system tho!

Oh yes, if it were a true 1100 watt amp I would not tell him to do that, because it would cause thermal overload and sub would be toast! I see we posted at the sametime last post.... you are also correct about the 1000, if he plans on getting another sub he wouldn't have to buy anything else cause his amp would be great for 2 of those bad boys!

If the amp put out what it said it does I would have never told him to do that.... and yes I totally agree with you that he needs a new amp the T3002 or a T5002 would both be good choices for him with that sub.

lol ok I guess its time to get technical First of all that "1100 watts" will NEVER happen with 2 20 amps fuses.... 40 amps X 14.4 volts = 576 watts (won't see that either) Can't argue with Ohms law! Next... I am sorry about the 10 to 15, I meant to say 10 to 25 it was a typo I will fix after this..... Quote from Dan Wiggins of Adire Audio "Lastly, power handling isn't compromised by a factor of 2; it's usually decreased 10-25%. The reason is that rarely are you current-limited by the gauge of the wire, and voice coils are wound concentrically so you still have the entire thermal mass working for you. Just that now all the power is dissipated in a single voice coil (typically two of four layers) so you may end up with an inert, non-conducting thermal mass insulating one side of the voice coil. This does not halve power handling, but can reduce it somewhat." So yes still perfectly safe.... run it that way and if it blows PM me and I will buy you a new woofer!

That sub will not disappoint you. Underpowering won't affect anything at all.

The only way it will ever get fucked up as you say is when someone thinks it still has the same power handling, when only using 1 coil you have to figure that the RMS of the sub is 10% to 25% lower, other than that it is perfectly safe to run a DVC with 1 coil wired

That is incorrect Chode, multiple coil drivers were made to create options for wiring

you said its a 4ohm DVC? till you get a new amp.... run 1 coil bridged. As for a new amp.. Id go with Chode

If you want SQ, have you thought about TC Sounds? if not check this out http://www.tcsounds.com/tc1000.htm They made the Eclipse Ti's and they are very good woofers. Plus for that price you can't go wrong!

Well thanks for coming clean, weather you believe it or not it does help your case. If you are having trouble understanding something about car audio, yes by all means post a question. I have been in car audio since I was 15 (25 now) and I still learn new things daily, no one can say they know it all. I have notice out of every forum that I have gone too (this one being one of the best) that most ppl will share the knowledge just don't annoy them

lovellsz, about the W6s I had, I think one of them was probably defective because it took a dump after 2 days.... so I said screw it

Alpine, I don't know you but I have been reading over all your threads. The only thing I can say to you is go find everything you possible can on car audio and read it. After that when you think you know a lot, guess what you don't, you need to try all that you have learned first hand and do things yourself. The first 6 boxes I ever tried to make turned out so newbish that I wouldn't put them in a car going to the junkyard! The only way I learned what I know is because I have done it! Stop asking everyone on here to hand you everything and just try it, besides our ears aren't the same as yours... you are asking for our opinions about what you should do when you will hear it not us... try mesing around with different designs and see what YOU like.

Personally I love Kicker amps, I beat the crap out of them and they have never let me down. But when it comes to subs... They are ok. Bonkers I totally agree with you about JL, IMO they seem to think that nothing is better than they are, but of course it depends who u talk to because I really don't like them after I had a pair of W6s. I love companys like FI, RE, and AA.... They don't say that they are the best they just let everyone see them perform. I remember being on the FI forum and someone asked what would be better, some FI subs or another company and scott told him that the others would probably work better, right there is when FI became my new favorite company because hes not all about money hes about the car audio community and giving good sound advice.

lol yet another MTX vid that makes me laugh, first the hole head to head thing of theirs, that is a joke, and now this one? MTX ALWAYS has these claims, but here is the thing, they never tell you the whole story. When they did the head to head crap with the 8500 vs L7 they only used 500 watts rms to each sub and claimed kicker lied about the excursion of the L7. Now with that in mind anyone who knows anything about kicker, they know that the L7 doesn't even start to wake up with 500 watts. Don't let companys test of other woofers fool you, in this case the L7 was setup to fail before it even started, and MTX isn't the only one guily of this. Personally I don't believe a single thing about tests unless I know the person or I did it myself!

The redtop is more of a starting barrery... it has more cranking amps then your normal but its not really a good idea to have it for stereos because it is NOT a deep cycle battery which means you can't drain it down all the way without having charging issues with it (Optima will NOT warrenty the battery if you use it this way) A yellowtop on the other hand is a deep cycle battery and you can drain it dead and it will still take a charge, the only down side to this battery is for starting purposes it has less cranking amps (which is important for colder areas but for warmer its not a big factor) For acc use a deep cycle is the best way to go, so for stereos in your car.... go with a yellowtop