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Everything posted by Broke_Audio_Addict
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How To: Solder Large Gauge Wire.
Broke_Audio_Addict replied to meade916's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
But notice how that hexagonal crimp has no gaps and is one solid piece of metal? Not saying you can't do it with those crimppers you posted but that picture wasn't the greatest of crimps but also very very far from the worst. Edit- I hate you auto correct. -
How To: Solder Large Gauge Wire.
Broke_Audio_Addict replied to meade916's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
To me that isn't a proper crimp since there is still visible strands of wire and air gaps around said wire, a proper crimp should become one solid piece of metal. -
Are you trying to tell one of if not the best amp designers in the world how to design his product? What? I'm just sharing my knowledge. I'm interested in his design choices, so I ask questions and have a conversation. I really respect the guy because of what he has done. Because he knows what he is doing, I'm trying to understand his design choices. Maybe it just came off the wrong way too me.
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Thank you sir!The choice of Class A/B was based on two things - Sound quality and idle current. These are both suprior on a class a/b amplifier. Advantages of class D amplifer are size and better effiencency under some conditions, not all. Size was not a concern as the size requirement for the woofer airspace was the determining factor there. Efficency was a wash. So Class A/B it is, and it sounds great! Just trying to give Dr. Helmholtz some love and respect Idle current shouldn't differ too much I think? What are your findings?The main thing is that class AB uses about 4 times more power with music at max volume. Waste of battery IMO. Class D is also much more suited for mass manufacturing (SMD, sinking via the PCB). I saw on your FB page that you were searching soldering techs down to 0603. There's no way your handassembling this (right?). Do you mind sharing some internals, maybe via PM, I always like to see the engineering work of others. Are you trying to tell one of if not the best amp designers in the world how to design his product?
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Wire color vs polarity
Broke_Audio_Addict replied to kryptonite's topic in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Good thing you can switch that on most head units. -
Wire color vs polarity
Broke_Audio_Addict replied to kryptonite's topic in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
So what would happen if you used the black leads as the positives and blues as the negatives? -
Do the sa's man. Not only is it more cone area it will be more total xmax and having multiple coils will mean they will run cooler.
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Wire color vs polarity
Broke_Audio_Addict replied to kryptonite's topic in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Really if they are all hooked up the same it actually doesn't matter. -
Two sa-15s would give more output than a single x-15 assuming you have the room to build a proper enclosure for them. I'd go with two sa 15's on the scv-2000
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New LiFePO4 battery
Broke_Audio_Addict replied to Jhunt94's topic in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
I would say yes because the current will be split between all the Batts not just going to the one. -
New LiFePO4 battery
Broke_Audio_Addict replied to Jhunt94's topic in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
Yeah that's exactly what it means. 270a is its max charge current per battery. -
What got me hooked was my brothers friends always had systems the first one I heard was a couple earthquake 12's in a box with the horns and mids next to them. The one that really set it off though was four Rockford 12's in a isobaric 4th order custom built for the back of a 1990 Ford escort. Shit was brutal for back in the day, made the tape deck skip. First car audio sub I owned was an orion cobalt 10" in the orion bandpass enclosure, Shit got down for one 10"
