AP Zoutes

not the amp the SUBS

$650 ea or all 4?

BTW, another scam is a paypal scam where they email you and it looks official and say there was a problem in Oct and we need you to sign in and verify something. When you sign in they steal your paypal ID and password. I just got this email about a week ago and ignored it then signed into paypal seperately to make sure there wasn't a problem and there wasn't.

the link didn't work. in the sub description is a described as a Dual Voice Coil or DVC? When you look at the sub does it have two positives and two negatives or just one of each.

haven't gotten to my rattles yet, but I've seem to have gained a couple of decibels. One of my subs was a warranty replacement and was brand new. If anyone knows Diamond they are real stiff when new, to the point where I've had installers tell me the T/S parameters are way off so I'm thinking the sub was possibly causing cancellation issues. As it breaks in the I've notice alot more bass ouput, as well as every car around me. I'm amazed at how much more bass escapes this rig compared to Jetta. It's way louder outside when the windows are down compared to the Jetta. Anyway new enclosure coming soon to try to squeeze every last bit of bass I can out of these things.

A hair dryer will get it hot enough. When heated you are causing a chemical release so it sticks. If too hot you start melting...I've always used a hair dryer and never had a problem. I just installed fatmat for the first time a couple of weeks ago (always used Dynamat before) and it seems like good stuff. Will see if it makes it though the summer without peeling off.

If you can spend a little more I would do these http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3073 or these http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4891 I currently have the second one and they sound really good and can take alot of power. I'm going to try the first ones if I can still get them on sale in a couple of weeks. I am currently loving CDT and will be doing my next three installs with them. Mine, My GF's and a friend of a friend's BMW. and will be using them form now on unless something go terribly wrong. They have quite a range in price from under $200 for components to almost $2000. i personally only spent $250 on the comps I have now and am more then happy, but will be moving those to the back and going to their "Gold" line upfront hopefully by the beginning of next month.

1.5

^^^^ exactly right. Understand you are not replacing factory cable just adding to. Use 0/1 guage and you can get full juice from alternator and it reinforces your ground. Here are pics of the big three done in a Jetta. You have to scroll down the page a little, but it's there. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...c=180&st=40

My tahoe had those in it when I first bought it and I think they sound like hell. They are still installed because it's an ugly cut but they are not connected.

haven't heard them, but I agree they look way better then the old ones. Same with the new Soundstream T5's. Getting some class in the lower lines.

yeah, warranites are a bitch. I just took in one of my subs because of some tinsel slap and the salesman I bought them from with the extra arranty of 5 yrs. told me they were going to send them in and it would be a motnh before it was returned. I was able to talk him out of it and decided it was another good reason not to by from a store. On-line from now on. My subs are $399 ea plus $20 for warranty that may or may not be held up and will mean going without for a month or I on-line I can buy the same sub for only $200. If it blows I can send it back in a year and go a month without or just buy a new one and still be at the same price as the store. Wonder why more and more poeple are going on-line. One of the local chains Magnolia HI-FI is actually phasing out their car audio and going straight Home eneterainment.

x2 will there be an audio event? nice to see someone hitting WA state

I wouldn't worry to much about the effects fo phaisng to much yet. You still have alot of basics to get a grip on. Go to the site I listed above and read everything you can from the glossary. also go here http://www.installer.com/tech/ then look for links to get as much info as you can. Then start getting the equipment and testing what you learn. Put the time into reasearch and learn not just ask questions

to figure out ohm load look here http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

has nothing to do with the ohm load

I don't really know how to explain it. Maybe someone esle can. I know what it does just don't know how to put it into words. Once you have it in your car you can switch the phase and see if it sounds better. It reverses the movement of the cone. So where the cone is normally moving out then in it reverses it to move in then out. Maybe someone can explain it better. It's something to mess with once it's in the car. The switch was put in place to make it easier to change the phase. You can do the same thing by switching the terminals on the speaker. So hooking up + to the - and - to the + manually changes the phase. Which is what the switch in the amp is doing for you.

a subsonic filter is basically a highpass filter designed to cut the lower freqs. below what usefull. For example mine is set at +/- 20hz which means I am cutting out the frequencies below 20 hz which takes stress of the subs and amp.this amps is adjustable so if you have a ported box cut the freq about 2-5 hz below port tune. This will keep your subs from overexcursion and can dramatically increase the amount of power you can safely give your subs A low pass filter does the same thing except it keeps higher frequencies from playing through your subs giving a cleaner sound by playing just the freqs a sub is designed to. usually set around 80 - 100 hz. the bass eq allows you to boost the bass gain at a set freq on this amp you can gain upto 18 db at 45 hz think of it as a spike above the other frequencies at that 45hz. And phase is allows you to change the phasing to see if it helps in bass response in car. All of these things are to help tune your bass to what sounds best in your car to your ear.

yeah, I watned to delte my earlier posts but I don't know how so I just put nevermind....I'll add nevermind taht was a dumb question caused by a lack of caffeine

nevermind

my woman don't mind the beat to much (of course I'm only around 136) but driving is my time to get space and I don't need her in it. I vote no.

woofersetc.com has good prices on Monster cable

x2

ME,ME I have a question. Actually first off thankyou for taking the time for the write up. Now, just so I have it straight in my head. I can make fiberglass pods, then use the XPSAP to attach them to the plastic trim and use the same stuff to fill, blend, and smooth, correct? Pics of products in use along with this write up would be great if you have any. And I vote that this and the painting plastice write ups should be meade into stickies.

By what I've been reading that should be just right. The BTL's are for when you are over 2000 rms per sub the Bl you can get close with some cooling options. Just e-mail Fi they will answer all your questions, happily