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Markous

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Everything posted by Markous

  1. Another thought I had this evening, would a sealed box be worth trying? I know i could just build it and try it but i'm looking for opinions here before i bother going any further with this idea. Would i notice much of a difference between the SA-8 v2 i have in a ported box now over having the X-10 in a sealed enclosure? I figure having one size larger driver and double the power i am using now would make up the difference in output i would get. The idea of a flatter response curve with equal or slightly more output is appealling to me from a SQ standpoint.
  2. A friend of mine had a couple of these Pheonix Gold team amp's He ran 8-9 of the original W6's in his IROC when they came out in 97-98. I had some bigtime stereo envy when he showed me them.
  3. Bought my DD-1 a couple of weeks ago, awesome peice of gear! only regret is that i should have waited and bought the DD/CC combo this weekend. Steve, I want to buy a CC-1 today but the $71 fed-ex shipping to Canada through wc car audio website is a little steep, any chance i could get it shipped for the $30 USPS shipping that you have on your personal e-bay page? Just send me a PM if possible, no need to post about it in your thread here.
  4. Put my info in the thread with the map but i throw it up here too. Markous (Mark) Edmonton, Alberta, Canada DD-1
  5. Got my DD-1 in the mail today and i was wondering how or if i could check the Alpine KTP-445 inline amp that i am using in my truck? It is one of the first generation models and it does not have a variable gain adjustment, just a high/low gain switch on the bottom of it. ^ not my picture I'm guessing it would be as easy as finding the ground wire on the input side and using a probe on the gator clip to insert into the wire and then using the positive probe on each one of the positive speaker wires on the output side? Or is there something i'm missing? Oh, inb4 get a real amp Edit - added more detail to the testing question
  6. So i got my reply and yeah i was off on a couple of things. Bryan told me in the e-mail 20 inches of port area, net volume of 1.5 cubes and at least 2" space between the sub and box fort the vented pole peice. I did forget to ask what the displacement of the sub was, so i just figured it had to be more than the SA-10 and less than the SA-12. After taking those numbers into consideration and tuning it to 30hz instead of 32 i think this is what i'm gonna build for my X-10.
  7. e-mailed sundown on sunday, waiting for a reply to see if i am good to go with this build.
  8. This what i have going on now and it sounds pretty good, just wanna get a little lower/louder.
  9. Yup that was my plan, something like that ^^^ Edit - the post above your last
  10. I knew this thing would be moving good even at the power i'm going to be running thus the decision to go with 1" I was probably going to go with a c shaped port (L with another leg) your design is intriguing as i could lose some depth on the box, cause i pushing the limits of what i have in the cab of my truck. I used some port area calculator and it told me i should be using around 38" of port but i didn't want to excede the max 18"/ft area rule of thumb by that much.
  11. Been messing around with Torres since i got my X-10 and SAZ-1200D to push it with. Building with 1" mdf and looking to tune it to 32hz, this is the design i keep coming up with as the best option for going into my ext. cab Ranger. What do you folks think? am i doing it right? any suggestions for improvement would be be appreciated.
  12. I believe you would need to have a 16v charging system to run 14v batteries. Like the 12v systems we have stock charge at just over 14v.
  13. Shit the three 14v numbers where just a couple hundred under my guess of what all six numbers (12v &14v) would add up to.
  14. My first stereo I had a couple of Alpine MRV-100M amps pushing couple of those Pioneer subs with the copper spike dustcap with the three same colored spokes. ( NOT MY PICTURE)
  15. I was quite surprised by the heat when i first noticed it on my sub, never checked before though. Should it be warm after only a 5-6 minutes of music? thats what surprised me the most.
  16. Will do as soon as i get access to a dmm. Should i be going with 31.6v (500w) or 34v (581w) with that tone? 81 watts over rms rating shouldn't be an issue should it?
  17. I am having a similar problem with my SA-8 v2. I was playing some Mt Eden - Sierra Leonne and after about 4-5 minutes i held my hand infront of the sub and i could feel heat radiating from about an inch away. I touched the dustcap and it was hot, not warm and if i had to guess it was about 60c the heat was even creaping into the cone on what little is exposed on these subs. This temp change happened from cold/cool in about 4-5 minutes of playing. My setup is as follows, SA-8 v2 D4 wired to 2 ohms in aprrox. 0.6 cubes with a final tuning of about 39hz (prefabbed box, not ideal i know) I am powering it with an Alpine MRX-M55 (581W @ 2ohm on the cert that came with it) The settings on the amp are, Gain - Nominal Sub Sonic - 24hz LP filter - 90hz Bass boost - 1db @ 45hz I don't really know what to think of all this, not noticing any smells coming from the box either. What do you figure my problem is? is this an issue to worry about?
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