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Hi guys so basically I was wondering if I could use the SMD sunflash alone and on its own (no matting no paint) on the outside of my box to offer protection from the elements of rain ice and snow or if I should just use some standard polyurethane for this? I'm not very familiar with paint products but if I did use the Sunflash resin over the polyurethane my understanding is that there is no mixing required, it is ready to be applied straight out of the can but I do have a few questions/concerns regarding its use... (1)should I sand or prep the smooth MDF wood prior to applying the first coat of resin? (2)should I lightly sand the resin between coats? (3)how many coats should I apply for it to withstand direct exposure to water and moisture? (4)is it best to be rolled or brushed on? (5)how much will a gallon cover on average (6)Lastly does this stuff tend to dry clear or cloudy? Thanks to everyone who took the time to address my needs here and offer any tips experience or advice all input is greatly appreciated!

Hey guys just purchased the aa mayhem 10's and now trying to decide on power and need some help. I was looking into 5k to 8k range. I got two dual 1 ohm coils so I just need one amp to for the subs in series/parallel to get a ohm load. So I need an amp from 5k-8k at 1 ohm. Hit me with suggestions

Finally I have a steady job where i can save up to start my build This will be my first build, it will also be SLOW..... But here it is! So i have ordered one of my subs from Sound Solutions audio "FTMFW!" great customer service! I ordered a sundown X-18 d4 and i plan on getting a second one after i get my amp, a SoundQubed 3500.1! I am late starting this, so i have already received some of my things So my ride, 2002 Escalade 6.0 in the snow here is another one with my summer wheels on i know..... they are too small Here is the 3500.1 AMP GUTS!!!!!! Hell yeah! i plan to do a plexi laser engraved backing later down the road! I also ordered a SMD-VM-1 well thats all for tonight, i will post my sub when it arrives!

Hey Guys, My 2006 Avalanche. Very small system compared to the monsters on this site. Im the little kid on the block. Suggestions and critiques welcome. **Updated 30/11/15** Finally got this done after putting it on the back burner for years. I absolutely hated the rake my avalanche had. Well thanks to Tony from TBSSowners, I told him I wanted to get rid of that and he suggested the 2" lowering belltech springs with bump stops. Parts came in Friday & Sunday was Funday. Original Height (Center of Hub to fender) Front Dr SIde: 20.5" Front Pass Side: 20.25" Back Dr Side: 22.25" Back Pass Side: 22.50"

I bought a quart of SMD Sunflash a few hours ago but just realized when looking at the pictures that it probably can't be sent to me in Australia since it's a flammable liquid. Can anyone confirm that?

I want to advance in this audio world, and actually understands how these things tick and works, they say its all in the box and setup and tuning but im just trying to understand it all to do things right i'm about to do a lil competition build with one soundstream xxx 18 in a trunk with about 5/6k to it not daily but just if needed i know its not that big as guys with 8/10 18s or 32 12s but its a start and i gotta start somewhere. just need some assistance to get it as right as possible then i can go from there. hope you guys can help.

Got a new car and I am just starting my audio install and other cool accessories! Check it out!

Just re-made the amp rack out of steel and was still having a issue with vibrations due to the cracked mounting plate. This is what we did to fix it!!! Subscribe for more insane bass and crazy sh*t!!!

Time to start a daily build in the new car (The Honda). Some of you might know about my Jeep Build, well now that it's a 160+db car I needed something to get around in so that the Jeep could become the weekend toy lol. (http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/201691-jeepandbass-2-18s-161db-certified-on-10k-and-still-demoing-hard/page-1) Decided to get this little gas saver and do a small build in it with the system I won in SOTM a while back. The Car: (2000 Honda Civic Ex 1.6L) Car's Competition History: 2016 Melos Auto (Sacramento Ca) - Street Trunk 5k 151.5db @3845 W (1st) The Build: Pic of when I first got it, needed a few things but ran good. Had to get some emblems and little things to get this started off right. Now to start getting ready for the system! Going to do a few boxes of DC Audio 80mil in there first.

Hello anyone reading, My name is Lee and I'm building a test box for fencing... the sport, not the 'property values' kind. And it is basically used to read the resistance between two points. I have built a prototype with a $10 Walmart multimeter and now looking to build a more finished version. A buddy of mine said SMD or car audio guys in general would have relatively small ohmmeters with an analog 'face' (is that the correct word for the needle showing the ohms?) for roughly $10. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find the ohmmeter for the life of me, so any links or advice you guys can give would be really appreciated. If I'm in the wrong section, please message me with where I should be. Thank you all fore reading. -Lee

We are currently in the process of building a bad-to-the-bone new Elite series alternator for Steve's Lexus ISF. We thought it would be cool to show the actual internal components compared to a conventional 270 amp alternator, and explain the difference between 6 phase alternator technology and the old school stuff. Check it out! WARNING: alternator porn inside

Where i can buy a head unit Mac like SMD have? How i can set it into my Ford Focus 2013 Hatch Sport? Thanks.

Looking to buy a 18" subwoofer or two, dont know which route to take. Had a Fi Q18 i liked but got stolen so im looking for something else. I have about 11 or 1200 i would like to spend on the sub/subs. Thinking of either gtting 2 Fi Sp4s for around 1100, or 1 Dc Level 6 18. I dont know how much Dc usually runs for but I assume the level 6 is something close to that price. I have an extended cab silverado Im going to take the seat out of to build my box so box space isnt too much a factor. Kind of like the AA Smd subs but somethings is telling me level 6 over the smd. So tell me what you guys think about this.

Hey guys, looking for someone in these states that has the following subs I could come get a listen. Never heard any of these subs in real life and Would really like some listening to decide my next purchase. I took vacation week of Sept. 16th so I could come then if you want to share a demo. Looking mainly for 18's if ya got them but 15's would also suffice for a demo. FI SP4 FI Team subs AA SMD AA Team subs Would consider DC lvl 5 or DC lvl 6

Hi guys new to the forum need some help understanding these different "hertz settings" My amp has a crossover frequency from 40 Hz to 130 Hz, and my subwoofer is supposedly set to 32Hz. My door speakers are, according to the box 49-31000Hz. My understanding is that the crossover frequency is the point at which the amp takes over the speaker, vice versa. But on my headunit I have got different setting for LPF, HPF and Slope, please could someone explain what these different things are and how i can tune them to give me optimum sound? Please go easy on me if I have said anything wrong i am partially new to this thanks guys

So I finally decided to make a build log,it's nothing like most of the builds here but hopefully some of you will enjoy it. It's mostly complete but still have more gear to get and make some changes in the near future hopefully.. Any and all comments/suggestions/recommendations are welcome...Here's the gear as of now...... RF T1462, RF T2652-S, RF P1T-S, RF old school power tweeters, Boston Acoustics SC60 and 5.25's, RF T400-4 (tweets), RF T600-4(mids), RF P500-4(temp for coaxial speakers but will be replaced with my P500-2 for DD W6.5's for midbass), RF T2500-1 bdcp, 2 RF T2D412's, RF 3Sixty.3, RFC10HB, Stinger power/speaker wire,sound deadener, volt meter and 220 amp alternator(replaced with EA),SHCA speaker wire, RF power & speaker wire, Second Skin B-stock deadener, NVX sound deadener & remote turn on module, Dynamat Xtreme, XS Power D3400 (front) D1200 (rear), Project DB dual 1/0 inputs, Excessive Amperage 300 amp alt, SMD DD-1,CC-1 & VM-1 (not installed yet), Tech Flex, Xscorpion heat shrink,split loom,terminal connectors,1/0 crimp connectors and some fuses, PAC turn on module...... I may have forgotten some things but they'll come up in the pics.. Pics coming soon,I have to look on my sd card for any pics I didn't upload to Photobucket..

Equipment: Sound: (4) Custom 18s (6) Supertweeters (4) 10in midrange (4) Tweeters (In the headliner) (4) 6.5in midwoofers (2) 5500s (1) 1100.4 (1) 550.2 (1) 600.6 Electrical: 6 Group 31s Quad alternator Bracket Rebuilt 250amp alt (3) 370 amp alternators SMD Temp and fan controller Suspension: Hellwig airbags Gabriel Airshocks Big Brake Kit, forgot brand YT: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_uCoOnER_E2AXbifxYS9uw

Just thought I would share a little project I've been working on..I've got 2 5.0k's I'm doing this to but this was alot of work so I'll show you the money shot's first then I'll finish the rest with kind of a build log set up but this way you wont have to wait till the end to see the results... your welcome so kinda hard to tell which was the point but the SMD D'Amore VM-1 OM-1 and TM-1 are behind the plexi I smoked some lit up pics soo yeah there are built in fans controlled by the TM-1 and are set to turn on when the inside of the amp reaches 100 degrees This will all be all internally wired I'm not done this isn't perfect needs some tlc before I'll call it good!! I'm leaving the contry for a month but just wanted to get this presentable before I left Soooo yeah if you want to point out any flaws....GFY! I have lots of pics of this thing being built but I'll post those later here's a small vid of them Also I couldnt hold the camera power it up to show the led's sweep because we all know thats one of the best parts of these ...couldn't do both and turn the led controller on......... so when both 5.0k's are done I'll post a vid of all 6 meters firing up if you want to check out my current truck build that all of this is going in that is here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169404-goodvibez-04-dmax-10k-center-console-rebuild-4-dc-xl-10s/page-20 dunno if you can tell but I love these things Lastly Thank you SMD and D'amore engineering for the help Much appreciated

Hey everyone I wanted to ask your advice. I been the car audio scene for many years had window smashing bass RE XXX 18”s FI BTL 18”’s and currently doing a full custom 2 door Tahoe with 4 18” SMD’s with a stock floor body drop on 24”s Here is what I wanted the advice on. I am a DJ/ producer does everything from weddings to corporate events to raves and major EDM events. Some need hard hitting bass and I listen to the sound these locations have and am like WOW seriously my truck hits way harder than this. Yes I know diversity and not everyone wants hard hitting bass yes I agree but here is what I am getting at even the TOP name brands like right now QSC has the KW series love them great sound but still don’t hit as hard as the Cerwin Vegas 18” subs they no longer make. Here are the specs of the KW Here is link for video and other info below… I found a company that is trying to convince those to replace the stock speakers with their hyped up speakers they have more wattage but looks like an old school rca speaker with small mag lol http://www.eminence.com/ they also do custom work and do car audio they claim I never heard them so I don’t want to knock anything but by looks unsure but ya never know… http://www.qscaudio....cifications.php Does anyone think it would be worth it to build a ground pounding system that is able to throw the sound the distance and not break my back in the process that would woop the KW’s Series SPECIFICATIONS KW122 KW152 KW153 Configuration 12" 2-way multipurpose 15" 2-way trapezoidal 15" 3-way trapezoidal Transducers Low-frequency Mid-frequency High-frequency 12" cone transducer - 1.75" diaphragm compression driver 15" cone transducer - 1.75" diaphragm compression driver 15" cone transducer 6.5" mid range cone transducer 1.75" diaphragm compression driver Frequency Response (-6 dB) 53 Hz - 18 kHz 47 Hz - 18 kHz 35 Hz - 18 kHz Frequency Range (-10 dB) 50 Hz - 20 kHz 44 Hz - 20 kHz 33 Hz - 20 kHz Nominal Coverage (-6 dB) 75° axisymmetric 60° axisymmetric 75° axisymmetric Maximum SPL1 131 dB peak 133 dB peak 134 dB peak Amplifier Power Output2 1000 W Class D (500 W LF, 500 W HF) continuous 2000 W peak 1000 W Class D (500 W LF, 500 W MF/HF) continuous 2000 W peak Input Impedance (ohms) Channel A XLR / ¼": Mic gain setting Balanced Unbalanced 0 dB 38k 19k +12 dB 10k 5k +24 dB 2.66k 1.33k +36 dB 660 ohms 330 ohms Channel B XLR / ¼": 38k balanced / 19k unbalanced Channel B RCA: 10k Controls Power, Gain A, Gain B, Channel A Input Gain (0 dB / 12 dB / 24 dB / 36 dB), LF Mode (Ext Sub/Norm/DEEP™), HF Mode (Flat/Vocal Boost), Front LED (On/Off/Limit) Indicators Power, Signal A, Signal B, Standby, Limit, Mic (24 dB and 36 dB settings) Connectors Balanced female XLR/¼" line/mic level input, Balanced female XLR/¼" line level input, Dual Balanced male XLR full range line level out , Balanced male XLR "mix" out, Stereo RCA line level input, Remote gain control, Locking IEC power connector Cooling On demand, 50 mm variable speed fan Amplifier Protection Thermal limiting, output overcurrent, overtemperature muting, GuardRail™ Transducer Protection Thermal limiting, excursion limiting AC Power Input Universal power supply 100-240 VAC, 50 - 60 Hz AC Power Consumption (1/8 Power) 100 VAC, 2.3 A 120 VAC, 2.01 A 230 VAC, 1.13 A Enclosure Material 15 mm painted birch plywood Finish Black textured paint Grille Black powder coated 16 gauge steel Dimensions (HWD) 26" x 15" x 15.4" 660 mm x 381 mm x 391 mm 32.1" x 17.5" x 15.2" 816 mm x 445 mm x 386 mm 43.1" x 18.5" x 16.8" 1094 mm x 470 mm x 427 mm Weight (Net) 49 lb (22.2 kg) 64 lb (29 kg) 87 lb (39.5 kg) Available Accessories KW SUS KIT 122, KW122 COVER, KW M10 KIT KW152 COVER, KW M10 KIT KW153 COVER, KW M10 KIT KW Series SPECIFICATIONS KW181 Configuration 18" subwoofer Transducer 18" cone transducer Frequency Response (-6 dB) 38 Hz - 124 Hz Frequency Range (-10 dB) 34 Hz - 143 Hz Maximum SPL1 135 dB peak Amplifiers Power Output2 1000 W Class D continuous 2000 W peak Input Impedance (ohms) XLR / ¼": 38k balanced / 19k unbalanced Controls Power, Gain, LF Mode (Normal/DEEP™), Polarity (Normal/Reverse), Front LED (On/Off/Limit) Indicators Power, Signal, Standby, Limit Connectors Dual balanced female XLR/¼" line level input, Dual Balanced male XLR full range line level out, Remote gain control, Locking IEC power connector Cooling On demand, 50 mm variable speed fan Amplifier Protection Thermal limiting, output overcurrent, overtemperature muting, GuardRail™ Transducer Protection Thermal limiting, excursion limiting AC Power Input Universal power supply 100 - 240 VAC, 50 - 60 Hz AC Power Consumption (1/8 Power) 100 VAC, 2.3 A 120 VAC, 2.01 A 230 VAC, 1.13 A Enclosure Material 15 mm painted birch plywood Finish Black textured paint Grille Rugged Powder-Coated Steel Grille Dimensions (HWD) 20.1" x 23.4" x 29.9" with casters 510 mm x 595 mm x 761 mm with casters Weight (Net) 88 lb (40 kg) Available Accessories KW181 COVER

I am thinking about buying an Ascendant Audio SMD 18", but it is out of stock. Sorry if this is an inappropriate forumplace to write this (I am a noob to this forum), but I wrote this on one of Steve's video, and it got reported as spam, so I wrote it here: I am just wondering about if Steve or someone else know when the AA SMD 18" will be back in stock so I can order it. Any helpfull reply would be great:)

What can I say, it's an awesome product! We just got these the other day and can't get enough of playing with them. Really easy to use, and you just immidietly know what's up with the system, takes all the guesswork out. Eventhough we have a big ole soviet-era oscilioscope in the shop we rarely use it in the cars, mostly for testing amps...the gains are usually set by ear and based on our experience - which is fairly accurate as we have quite a few years of experience, and know when to back off when beating on a system, but it's rarely 100% clean signal. So here's a vid we shot the other day (we also had a bunch of pics, but those are on the camera still and need to be uploaded...we will get those up later) - sorry in advance for my sometimes incoherent rambling, I'm not that used to the camera just yet. LOL the actual gain setting part is in Russian as that was done by Drugban and Vic now this was like the perfect example of what I was tlaking about above - we have the Obsidian 18's on a Sundown SAZ3500 @ half-ohm in the vid, and when this was initially hooked up we pretty much eyballed everything as usual. The subs were actually fine, but on some tracks we had them getting a bit too warm - we knew there was some clipping looking at the voltage drop.... After we set the gains with the DD-1 on the deck (the Sony unit at the Audi starts to clip at 35 on the sub channel) and the amp (video above) - perfect! zero issues, no coils smell at all.... I can't wait to use this to set up my system, which being a BP4 means I can't exactly smell coils with the sub being in sealed chambers oh yah, here's the vid we left out with setting the HU Thanks Steve!!!

DD-1+ Demo Video

Hi I may sound stupid for asking but im fairly new to car audio and have a little system consisting of 2 Alpine type R's 12d2 subs 4 Alpine type R component speakers Lanzar OPTIDRIVE 2600 mono amp at 0.5 ohm which puts out 2600 at .5 4 cubic foot ported enclosure tuned at 36 hz i have my subs wired to .5 and the subs are rated at 1k each whilst im using a 2600 amp I am wanting to know what the gain is for im aware that its to match the output of the headunit with the amp but wanted to know if the gain determines how much power the amp recieves, at half gain will my amp get 1300 rms ? or will my amp still put out 2600 but just need the deck volume to be turned up more than if the gain was at 3/4 Hope some one cant help

Anyone in the DC area with a SMD DD-1/CC-1? I eventually would like to purchase one of each but I would like to meet up with someone and tune my amp gains and crossovers. Or if you know of a buisness near by the DC area that has this equipment and does tuning that would be helpful. Thanks for your time! SSgt. Jason Nelson Andrews AFB, MD

Whats good SMD..This B-eazy, most of ya'll know me from the Stormtrooper! Well now I'm about to bring ya'll "The Calm B4 the Storm" haha!!! This is a personal build of mine in my daily driver... But Enough talking, Lets get to the equipment and build pics!! 2008 Chevy Tahoe (2) SMDv1 18s Hifonics Maxximus 10k (2) Power Master d3100s (Front batts) (3) XP3000s Alpine iva-w205 headunit w/ Blackbird Navigation Alpine Type R comps Memphis "Lil Belle" 5 channel Toolmaker Dual Inputs and Plenty of 0ga wire Here's how she sits: