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Updated as of September 2018!!! Go to last page(s) for most recent updates! This was my long time daily driver and first car. Currently am running 6 12's in a series 6th order wall. I regularly take it to events across the western U.S. It has seen 7 builds as far as I can remember. The better known was the previous 2 18's in a flat wall boasting my best scores to date of 162.2db Db Drag style 164.2 USACI. Today it is on half that power but maintains mid 156's drag style at 26hz and 161s at 35hz USACI style. Defiantly a demo friendly build. The Car: (1990 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0L) (6) JVF Customz 3.3 12s (4 Pairs) Audio Dynamics 3000 Series Components (3) DC Audio 3.5k's (2) DC Audio 90.4's (6) Full Throttle Group 31 Batteries (2) JS Alternators The Wall Build : Started in November 2015 Last pics of the car before stripping it out (In near stock forum just after finals 2015). After the car was stripped out. Removing things that were in the way such as old seat belt parts and rear seat brackets. Plastidiped the windows, looks great from the outside. Spray foam to create a seal on the sides of the car. Also added some 2" PVC pipe to run wires on each side of the car. First parts of the frame to go in, main beams that will create the plane the baffle attaches to. From here the rest of the frame will extend off to the rear.

Decided to start a thread about my quest for dbzzzz in my daily driver. I told myself I would not be doing anything big with this car but I am learning not to trust myself with that kind of promise lol! Here is the car's actual build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205951-sotm-build-2000-honda-civic-ex-140db-daily-build/?p=3124379 So I had a little setup in the car that only did 140.8db at about 34hz dB Drag style. Grabbed some equipment from my Jeep (currently being rebuilt) and got some subs to play with from Jeff Vue of JVF Customz. So here is what I'm working with as of December 2016: Car - 2000 Honda Civic Ex 5 Speed w/ sunroof, ac, bla bla bla. Electrical - Stock 70a Alternator, $60 G51R stock under hood battery, Big 3 done with SHCA 4 gauge cca, 4 gauge Xs cca to the rear, G34 battery in the rear. So basically shit for electrical but its kool...but I did get some supercaps! BIGGG help with those. Subs - 2 JVF Customz 3.3 12's, 3" 8 layer coil D1.4, 10" spider???, fat motor (same as my 18's in the Jeep) on 12 spoke. Box - 3.4 cube, subs forward, port forward, 8" aero. Power - 1 DC Audio 3.5k DAT AZZ!! 3.5k with caps in spare tire location. Caps did not get used until later. Decided this was a bad location for the amp so it's going to move asap. Makeshift setup. Box hardly fits and I don't like the subs up at the deck lid. This box is named the "bitch box" mostly because its been in about every "loud" street stock car in NorCal since like 2011. I won West Coast championships with it in 2015. So now lets get on with testing! I'll just post as I go with it!

UPDATED 8/19/12 All sales are officially over.....thats ok though because members of my site, fans of my facebook page, twitter followers and youtube subscribers will still get the original deal. Here is the coupon codes used to save a few bucks. SMD Distortion Detector DD-1 MSRP $189.99 wcCarAudio.com price $149.99 - use Coupon code SMDDD1 to save an additional $10.00! $139.99 http://www.wccaraudi...tall-tools.html SMD Crossover Calibrator CC-1 MSRP $189.99 wcCarAudio.com price $149.99 - use Coupon code SMDCC1 to save an additional $10.00! $139.99 http://www.wccaraudi...tall-tools.html need both? SMD DD1/CC1 Combo Pack MSRP: $379.98 wcCarAudio.com price $289.99 - Use coupon code SMDCP15 and save an ADDITIONAL $15. ($25 total!) $274.99 http://www.wccaraudi...tall-tools.html SMD VU-DIN MSRP: $134.99 wcCarAudio.com price $124.99 - Use coupon code SMDVUDIN to bring the price down to $109.99 ($25.00 off!) http://www.wccaraudi...u-din-blue.html IMPORTANT - You have to use the coupon codes to get the deals stated above. This is how i know you saw this on my site or one of the social media networks. Thanks!! why am i doing this? because i LOVE coming to my shop every day, checking my orders, and getting them out.....to me, its not work (well it is time consuming). I love hearing the feedback from everyone who loves their product. So why would i cost myself money? Thats why. And like i would normally say, WHY NOT?! ok everyone feel free to put me to work....lets do this. I have a huge stock at hand that just came in and i am ready to roll!

So I finally decided to make a build log,it's nothing like most of the builds here but hopefully some of you will enjoy it. It's mostly complete but still have more gear to get and make some changes in the near future hopefully.. Any and all comments/suggestions/recommendations are welcome...Here's the gear as of now...... RF T1462, RF T2652-S, RF P1T-S, RF old school power tweeters, Boston Acoustics SC60 and 5.25's, RF T400-4 (tweets), RF T600-4(mids), RF P500-4(temp for coaxial speakers but will be replaced with my P500-2 for DD W6.5's for midbass), RF T2500-1 bdcp, 2 RF T2D412's, RF 3Sixty.3, RFC10HB, Stinger power/speaker wire,sound deadener, volt meter and 220 amp alternator(replaced with EA),SHCA speaker wire, RF power & speaker wire, Second Skin B-stock deadener, NVX sound deadener & remote turn on module, Dynamat Xtreme, XS Power D3400 (front) D1200 (rear), Project DB dual 1/0 inputs, Excessive Amperage 300 amp alt, SMD DD-1,CC-1 & VM-1 (not installed yet), Tech Flex, Xscorpion heat shrink,split loom,terminal connectors,1/0 crimp connectors and some fuses, PAC turn on module...... I may have forgotten some things but they'll come up in the pics.. Pics coming soon,I have to look on my sd card for any pics I didn't upload to Photobucket..

So I happened upon this clean blue beauty and for a price of almost half of all the others of similar year and mileage, I snatched it up. My build plans with it are to move my current system from the explorer into this since i will no longer own the explorer in a short time. The equipment being: HU- Pioneer DEH-80PRS Subs- Two SoundQubed HDS312D2's Amps- SoundQubed Q1-3500.1; AudioQue 90.4 Mids & Highs- CDT CL61A Wires- All Sky High 1/0, RCA's, 12ga speaker wire Power- Haven't decided on an alt yet, gotta contact singer, see what he's got. I don't think I'll go with anything over 300A on the alt. I'll have a D3400 under the hood, and I've got a D4700 i had bought for a cruze that I'll keep by the amps. Hopefully I can get started on transferring it all this weekend. I've got duty saturday so i'll have all day sunday to knock it out. The only things that need bought are the D3400 and the alt. I'll post pictures as i go through the install. edit: fixed the pictures

Check out the 100 bands video. Tell me what you think (cant post it here for some reason the link wont work)

I recently bought a crescendo 3500 for my hd12s and noticed that the clipping light turns on at a certain volume I haven’t tuned my amps but I don’t notice or here and distortion I have it on my daily driver, i never really tuned any of my past systems yet never had a problem with distortion/clipping does it matter if I get a little clipping in my system?

I’m buying 4 2ohm subs yet I’m putting them in two separate boxes I’m going to wire it down to 1 ohm but the problem is how would I do it since there’s two separate boxes?

Many of you have seen the sweet build our Russian brothers just completed with (2) 32" Deaf Bonce subs in their clean red Escalade. Well, we too cracked open some vodka and decided it's time to bring some monster subs over to the USA and build a cool ass rig. So, without further adieu, we introduce you to the Alpha X -- a sweet ass, chipped paint 6.0L Chevy Suburban packed with: (2) 32" Deaf Bonce subs (48) banks of 2.7 / 3000F Maxwell caps (48kw) of new Deaf Bonce Brazilian board amps (3) 390a US Alternators alts (1) independent 250a US Alternators alt Plenty of Deaf Bonce mids and highs with complimentary 4-channels Tons of SMD and SHCA goodies We're finally to a point with the AlphaBlazer to where we can hold off fixing its issues and start working on this one-of-a-kind build. We'd specify some goal or some achievements that we'd like for it to hit and surpass, but Kyle and Kenny (the red burb butt holes) wouldn't stop giving us hell for the AlphaBlazer's post, so screw it this time around. We just want the damn thing to play and turn some heads. Think we can do that. Tune in - this should be fun!

The Audio Art 100HC is one of the most beautiful amplifier designs EVER!! From the stunning white and polished aluminum exterior to the absolutely incredible internals. The amplifiers dual-mono design by David Yeh has impressed both SPL and SQ users over the years. The amp has a high-current design and is capable of powering speaker loads between 0.5 and 16 ohms. Back in the day this would be considered a 100 watt amp (for competition purposes). The original MSRP (1995-6) was $999 USD and it's main competition were Orion's HCCA and US Amps VLX series amplifiers. In the 90's, many competition classes were divided by 4 ohm rated power, so you could have 2 of these and still be in the 250 watt and under class. Here we take a look at this work of "Audio Art" and try it out on the Amp Dyno as well. Spoiler alert...it's down right impressive! Too bad there's not a good way to portray sound quality over YouTube or you would be impressed with more than the looks and output power! Watch on YouTube in 1080/60p or embedded below:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ybcae8ab2wk8lpu/AAAv7q56eXz8jgqNPksJ3tlha?dl=0

Here is a enclosure for a pair of CT Sounds Tropo 8v2 subs I just finished. Just need to get it packaged up and on its way to Lufkin Texas it goes! Had to make a new port, I remembered the wrong and not the number I needed to cut off and the port came up too short. Glad I caught it before gluing it in otherwise the entire box would have to be rebuilt. Didnt feel like cutting down my new 4by8 sheet of HDPE to make some router templates, so I just used some scrap wood to cut down to get the job done. Just a simple brace since the space was tight inside the box, adding a center line of the brace would reduce the opening down from 60sq inches and make it awfully close to the cone area and that is no bueno! Cut out a second piece to beef it up without reducing the area, and hit it with a small Sweep bit. Also used a medium sized Sweep bit on the end of the port. Had to wait for some orders to show up so I could progress on the build, needed to measure the new style SMD terminals for the cutout, and was pretty much out of wire as well.

I'm trying to get help with specs for a SMD mini, there's no info anywhere and I'm not getting a reply fro Steve's facebook page. Hopefully someone can help. Max width can be 39" and 14" tall...can be as deep as necessary. Would like to have box tuned to 31hz. Thanks in advance

Equipment: Sound: (4) Custom 18s (6) Supertweeters (4) 10in midrange (4) Tweeters (In the headliner) (4) 6.5in midwoofers (2) 5500s (1) 1100.4 (1) 550.2 (1) 600.6 Electrical: 6 Group 31s Quad alternator Bracket Rebuilt 250amp alt (3) 370 amp alternators SMD Temp and fan controller Suspension: Hellwig airbags Gabriel Airshocks Big Brake Kit, forgot brand YT: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_uCoOnER_E2AXbifxYS9uw

Hi I may sound stupid for asking but im fairly new to car audio and have a little system consisting of 2 Alpine type R's 12d2 subs 4 Alpine type R component speakers Lanzar OPTIDRIVE 2600 mono amp at 0.5 ohm which puts out 2600 at .5 4 cubic foot ported enclosure tuned at 36 hz i have my subs wired to .5 and the subs are rated at 1k each whilst im using a 2600 amp I am wanting to know what the gain is for im aware that its to match the output of the headunit with the amp but wanted to know if the gain determines how much power the amp recieves, at half gain will my amp get 1300 rms ? or will my amp still put out 2600 but just need the deck volume to be turned up more than if the gain was at 3/4 Hope some one cant help

Time to start a daily build in the new car (The Honda). Some of you might know about my Jeep Build, well now that it's a 160+db car I needed something to get around in so that the Jeep could become the weekend toy lol. (http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/201691-jeepandbass-2-18s-161db-certified-on-10k-and-still-demoing-hard/page-1) Decided to get this little gas saver and do a small build in it with the system I won in SOTM a while back. The Car: (2000 Honda Civic Ex 1.6L) Car's Competition History: 2016 Melos Auto (Sacramento Ca) - Street Trunk 5k 151.5db @3845 W (1st) The Build: Pic of when I first got it, needed a few things but ran good. Had to get some emblems and little things to get this started off right. Now to start getting ready for the system! Going to do a few boxes of DC Audio 80mil in there first.

Okay I had a couple people asking when I would start my build log,so here it goes.This is my 2007 Chevy Avalanche that I purchased back in April 2007.I've been ordering and selling stuff for this build for a couple months now.I am in the US Air Force and stationed in Italy.So it's been a challenge trying to get everything I need shipped here.The companies I have purchased from have all come through and they understand the APO situation and have been working to get me what I need.Now enough about me here's some pictures of the truck. These are from the first day I bought her home in Arizona More to come.My internet here in Italy is super slow uploading pictures.Plus I'm still trying to find alot of the older pictures.Stay tuned

Hello, I am currently running a Sundown X-12 V1 D2 on a Soundqubed Q-2200.1. My volt gauge is an SMD VM-1 which is wired directly to the posts on the battery (XS D3400, Stock 120ish amp alt). The issue that I am having is that when my bass plays (even when it is barely playing at all) my headlights slightly dim. My resting voltage is 14.3-14.6v and even on notes where the voltage of the battery doesn't budge, the headlights are still dimming. I'm just curious as to why this would be?

2 - Fi Q 15s Dual 2ohm - Great condition, practically new. Little play time. Couple of scuffs on the magnet from install. $275 shipped each 1 - SSA Xcon 18 Dual 2ohm - Great condition, practically new. Little play time. Couple of scuffs on the magnet from install, a little paint on gasket. $300 shipped

Finally I have a steady job where i can save up to start my build This will be my first build, it will also be SLOW..... But here it is! So i have ordered one of my subs from Sound Solutions audio "FTMFW!" great customer service! I ordered a sundown X-18 d4 and i plan on getting a second one after i get my amp, a SoundQubed 3500.1! I am late starting this, so i have already received some of my things So my ride, 2002 Escalade 6.0 in the snow here is another one with my summer wheels on i know..... they are too small Here is the 3500.1 AMP GUTS!!!!!! Hell yeah! i plan to do a plexi laser engraved backing later down the road! I also ordered a SMD-VM-1 well thats all for tonight, i will post my sub when it arrives!

Hey Guys, My 2006 Avalanche. Very small system compared to the monsters on this site. Im the little kid on the block. Suggestions and critiques welcome. **Updated 30/11/15** Finally got this done after putting it on the back burner for years. I absolutely hated the rake my avalanche had. Well thanks to Tony from TBSSowners, I told him I wanted to get rid of that and he suggested the 2" lowering belltech springs with bump stops. Parts came in Friday & Sunday was Funday. Original Height (Center of Hub to fender) Front Dr SIde: 20.5" Front Pass Side: 20.25" Back Dr Side: 22.25" Back Pass Side: 22.50"

Hello anyone reading, My name is Lee and I'm building a test box for fencing... the sport, not the 'property values' kind. And it is basically used to read the resistance between two points. I have built a prototype with a $10 Walmart multimeter and now looking to build a more finished version. A buddy of mine said SMD or car audio guys in general would have relatively small ohmmeters with an analog 'face' (is that the correct word for the needle showing the ohms?) for roughly $10. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find the ohmmeter for the life of me, so any links or advice you guys can give would be really appreciated. If I'm in the wrong section, please message me with where I should be. Thank you all fore reading. -Lee

Here is my build log. The vehicle is a 98 GMC ext cab K1500, with the 3rd door. This build was supposed to be 1 Sundown X 15 on 1 SQ 2200 until SSA had a pretty awesome deal when the zv4's first came out that i couldn't pass up. I already order the 2200 thinking I was getting an X so the ZV4 is going to be a little under powered. On to the pics.. The Truck. 182k and still going strong She's no pavement Princess First day I got her Next to the Wife's Sd-2 8" A Picture of all the Original Equipment Singer 250 vs Stock Installed with XS Power D3400 Started with the false floor connected to the original seat belt bolts. I wanted a low end monster so I Built a box that was 4.2 cubes net tuned to 26hz. It easily played 20hz and fell off after about 37hz. The lows were pretty awesome for a single sub. In the truck

Although this is not Photoshop, I thought I'd put my Sketchup images here. I was bored and decided that I'd model a new subwoofer in Sketchup so I can fool around with some designs. Check it out. Let em know what you think.

putting in some work