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So I got an OM-1 from a friend as a late christmas present (didnt think i was going to get it until later this week but it came today and i was thrilled.) i opened the box and man it looks good but then i open the back up to take a look at the insides and i see this My friend and I were laughing so hard we were crying when we saw the Banana guy on the back of the OM-1 aside from the laughs though this thing looks sweet and cant wait to get it moving! thanks for making such awesome products Steve and the D'Amore team. i was thinking about doing something like this where the opening will be covered by a piece of 1/8" smoked plexi with my bass knob coming out of the plexi on the left side and the OM-1 on the right behind the plexi. what do you think?

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/1642-buick-regal-ls/page__tab__images

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I made a nice modification on my amplifier......... I removed the top of my sound system because it was heating up a lot So it turned off for self-protection then i had to wait for it to cool off.. So i replaced it with plexi-glass and i adapted two ventilators on it to keep it cool. Finally i decorated it with led light bulbs. From that day on my system is working better. hope u like it 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. A VIDIEO

Spring Break Nationals Part 2, lots of crazy custom fiberglass installs, off the wall paint jobs and cool interiors + whack amp racks. Please leave any feedback, likes , comments!

Is the SMD DD-1 worth the money? I just blew a sub and want to try to prevent this from happening again, and just want better sounds.(mids, highs, ect) Thanks

QUICK QUESTIONS I PRAY SOMEONE KNOWS... I JUST BOUGHT A PAIR OF BRAND NEW CVX 15'S AND I HEARD ABOUT THE BREAKING IN PERIOD, MY QUESTION IS... IS IT REALLY NECESSARY TO WAIT??? WHAT DIFFERENCE DOES IT MAKE IF YOU WAIT??? AND IF I HAVE TO OR SHOULD WAIT HOW LONG SHOULD IT BE BEFORE I CAN FEED THEM WHAT THEY'RE BEGGING ME FOR??? LAST BUT NOT LEAST WHAT IS A PERFECT TUNING FREQUENCY TO GET THE MOST OUT OF MY CVX 15'S??? THE SETUP IS A BRUITS 2400.1 SUPER CLASS D AMP WITH A SUPER BASS PROBOX HAVING 3.25 CUBIC FT PER CHAMBER IN A 2001 VW JETTA WAGON.

Just thought I would share a little project I've been working on..I've got 2 5.0k's I'm doing this to but this was alot of work so I'll show you the money shot's first then I'll finish the rest with kind of a build log set up but this way you wont have to wait till the end to see the results... your welcome so kinda hard to tell which was the point but the SMD D'Amore VM-1 OM-1 and TM-1 are behind the plexi I smoked some lit up pics soo yeah there are built in fans controlled by the TM-1 and are set to turn on when the inside of the amp reaches 100 degrees This will all be all internally wired I'm not done this isn't perfect needs some tlc before I'll call it good!! I'm leaving the contry for a month but just wanted to get this presentable before I left Soooo yeah if you want to point out any flaws....GFY! I have lots of pics of this thing being built but I'll post those later here's a small vid of them Also I couldnt hold the camera power it up to show the led's sweep because we all know thats one of the best parts of these ...couldn't do both and turn the led controller on......... so when both 5.0k's are done I'll post a vid of all 6 meters firing up if you want to check out my current truck build that all of this is going in that is here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169404-goodvibez-04-dmax-10k-center-console-rebuild-4-dc-xl-10s/page-20 dunno if you can tell but I love these things Lastly Thank you SMD and D'amore engineering for the help Much appreciated

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DD-1+ Demo Video

What can I say, it's an awesome product! We just got these the other day and can't get enough of playing with them. Really easy to use, and you just immidietly know what's up with the system, takes all the guesswork out. Eventhough we have a big ole soviet-era oscilioscope in the shop we rarely use it in the cars, mostly for testing amps...the gains are usually set by ear and based on our experience - which is fairly accurate as we have quite a few years of experience, and know when to back off when beating on a system, but it's rarely 100% clean signal. So here's a vid we shot the other day (we also had a bunch of pics, but those are on the camera still and need to be uploaded...we will get those up later) - sorry in advance for my sometimes incoherent rambling, I'm not that used to the camera just yet. LOL the actual gain setting part is in Russian as that was done by Drugban and Vic now this was like the perfect example of what I was tlaking about above - we have the Obsidian 18's on a Sundown SAZ3500 @ half-ohm in the vid, and when this was initially hooked up we pretty much eyballed everything as usual. The subs were actually fine, but on some tracks we had them getting a bit too warm - we knew there was some clipping looking at the voltage drop.... After we set the gains with the DD-1 on the deck (the Sony unit at the Audi starts to clip at 35 on the sub channel) and the amp (video above) - perfect! zero issues, no coils smell at all.... I can't wait to use this to set up my system, which being a BP4 means I can't exactly smell coils with the sub being in sealed chambers oh yah, here's the vid we left out with setting the HU Thanks Steve!!!

Tony Candela of CE Auto Electric Supply, Juan Rodriguez and I decided to do some testing with the AD-1 Amplifier Dyno to see what effects adding a capacitor to your system does. We did over 60 Dyno pulls with a Rockford T2500-1bdcp, without a capacitor, with a 1 Farad electrolytic capacitor (a real 1 F), and a 100 Farad carbon supercap. Test vehicle is a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 5.7 Hemi, 180 amp alternator, single group 49 AGM battery, all wiring 1/0 AWG copper. We tested each possible combination 3 times just to make sure our numbers were consistent, which they were. Video part 1 is continuous power testing, video 2 is dynamic burst power testing. Enjoy!!! Video part 1= Continuous power testing (uncertified dyno test mode). We do 4, 2 and 1 ohm dyno runs with no cap, 1 F cap, and 100 F cap. All tests in this video were made using the Uncertified Dyno Mode which is a continuous sine wave. We test a Rockford T2500-1bdcp in car, with no added capacitors, then with a 1 Farad aluminum electrolytic capacitor added, and then with a 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor added. RESULTS: No Capacitor: 1499 Watts RMS @ 13.07V into 4 ohms 2059 Watts RMS @ 11.84V into 2 ohms 2366 Watts RMS @ 10.83V into 1 ohm With 1 Farad Capacitor: 1489 Watts RMS @ 13.10V into 4 ohms 2024 Watts RMS @ 11.90V into 2 ohms 2358 Watts RMS @ 10.87V into 1 ohm With 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor: 1531 Watts RMS @ 13.13V into 4 ohms 2208 Watts RMS @ 12.25V into 2 ohms 2606 Watts RMS @ 11.30V into 1 ohm Engine RPM held between 2200-2500 for all tests. 1F capacitor didn't add any power on the continuous RMS test, actually lost a few watts probably due to the increased number of wire connections. 100F capacitor added more than 10% more power on the continuous RMS test Make sure to watch part 2, dynamic power testing (burst power). Hint: The results are different! --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Video part 2= Dynamic burst testing (Dynamic Power Dyno Mode). We do 4, 2 and 1 ohm dyno runs with no cap, 1 F cap, and 100F cap. All tests in this video were made using the Dynamic Power (Burst) Dyno mode which is representative of musical peaks. We test a Rockford T2500-1bdcp in car, with no added capacitors, then with a 1 Farad aluminum electrolytic capacitor added, and then with a 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor added. RESULTS: No Capacitor: 1543 Watts RMS @ 13.80V into 4 ohms 2550 Watts RMS @ 13.32V into 2 ohms 3154 Watts RMS @ 12.76V into 1 ohm With 1 Farad Capacitor: 1613 Watts RMS @ 13.98V into 4 ohms 2666 Watts RMS @ 13.60V into 2 ohms 3426 Watts RMS @ 13.35V into 1 ohm With 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor: 1620 Watts RMS @ 13.95V into 4 ohms 2616 Watts RMS @ 13.65V into 2 ohms 3260 Watts RMS @ 12.91V into 1 ohm Engine RPM held between 2200-2500 for all tests. 1F capacitor didn't add any power on the continuous RMS test, but it OWNED the Dynamic Burst testing!! 100F capacitor added more than 10% more power on the continuous RMS test, but less than 5% on the dynamic burst test.

Excursion video of Jerry's splcompetitions 4 15" Ascendant Audio SMD subwoofers in a 6th order bandpass. This one is all shaky like my last video, hope you guys enjoy it and thanks for watching. He is using 2 Addictive Audio 500.1s @ 18 volts.