P4killer_

Idk this might be old news but I got the parts express book in the mail today.. T3 400 12's D4 $48.70 each if you buy four or more their $43.83! Maybe I'm crazy but bnib that seems uber cheap. Under 100 bucks you'd have some ok 12's for like an aq1200 or something. I don't really post too much anymore just skim the random topics really but for all the people just starting out or wanting something on a budget this ain't bad http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=269-087

To add to to nates point. If there is a lot of noise in the system it will likely lower your score. No joke I lost about 4 dbs easy .. seriously the light comes on at quarter gain. However my car has a funky electrical system and there was engine noise before I even installed a system. If I ever get around to improving the grounds and doing the big 3 to clean it up some hopefully the meter won't pick up on random distortion like it does now. It's very easy to use and its consistent in its results. But distortion can come from a lot of places and doesn't necessarily mean your clipping as in my case where when using the dd1 settings its Sooo much quieter. And my 3512 is like "cmon seriously" long post , but I lost a lot. It's likely not the dd1s fault

Bump para new price!!

For Sale is my DD 3512e its a dual 1.4 I bought it off Caco. Condition: Mechanical 10/10 Cosmetic 8/10 a few scratches on the magnet. dust on the cone. Minor stuff Specs: 3" Coil Dual 1.4 1300w RMS ( it laughs at that much power ) triple stacked motor etc etc First off the sub is exactly as I bought it, it came to me exactly how it is. Its in excellent shape. The only reason Im selling it is because finding another 1 is difficult, and I really wanted to try 15's but couldnt pass this up. Its an amazing sub, easily the best I ever owned. It sounds just soo much better imo than anything I ever owned with amazing SPL as well. I have it on my Crescendo BC2000 prolly seeing right around rms after rise and drop.. I can play it full tilt for an hour straight with zero issues. It can take more power, but the consensus is around 2k daily rms max in the right build etc. Anyway its an amazing sub, I just need 2 Price: $250 SHIPPED!!! Paypal only, buyer pays fees. Cont Us. Contact me for international rates. Ive been quoted OVER double what Im asking 3x from 3 different dealers around me. Trades: A couple Sa-15s D2s plus cash on my end obviously. Or just hit me with what ya got 15in subs. Anyway time for the pix: The way my setup is, its difficult to measure each coil separately because getting to the amp is a tight fit. So It usually measured .9 or .8 on my regular dmm in parallel but the clamp meter i used below is always a lil high. this is a picture showing the resistance is the probes, so yea it measure just a lil high Anyway thanks for looking and feel free to hit me with any questions..

cant wait to get mine... max clean signal here we come...

thanks for the update ray

lmao if it comes with instructions then obviously just do what it says, i dint know instructions were included haha. and yea your car should be fine running at 14v you just have to be careful above certain voltages you could f up your cars computer / electronics the limit is usually around 16v but many cars are picky.

I wouldnt set it any higher than 15v.. thats kinda the limit w/ 12v bats. usually cold charging voltage is higher and when ur car warms up itll drop some.. i would set it 15v max with nothing on, cold that way it wont it wont go over 15v, but you could always just set it to 14.4 which is the regular charging voltage for 12v bats and not worry about it.

Well let me say this.. marine grade ie:. wet cells im assuming.. are frowned upon, but ive seen it done sooo many times and ive done it myself also. People will flame you over and over yet, that video of a DC 5k vs AB 500.1 vs Sundown 4500 was done on wet cells and they clamped 5k plus on each amp. on walmart bats.. which are deka made iirc anyway, the concern is the hydrogen gas they expel when charging... you can buy a vented bat box to vent the gas outside the car or build a vented enclosure for multiple bats, or do like in the cadi in above mentioned video and the trunk is sealed off from the cabin so the gas doesnt get in, and hes been running it like or i should say ran it like that fooor ever. on a bat to bat basis the wet cells likely dont hold a candle to xs but the price is also a big factor when you can run 3+ bats per 1 3100 just my .02

yea a step down would be the only way however than means the 12v bat is only for the car.. so a 3100 for the car alone is overkill you couldnt put both a 12v and a 14v bat to a single amp...

no you cant have both 12v and 14v bats on the same alt. youd be severely over charging the 12 bat. you could use a step down but idk if it would work or even be worth it to step down a run to the front 12v bat and another run to the back. it should work. i know kinetik 16v bats have three posts so you can simply connect the car to the 12v post and the rest to 16v post.

So pre-ordering through ray will in the end set us back a tad bit, as they have to be shipped to ray, then shipped again. no big deal i was just confused. shoulda ordered through the site :/ anyway its all good and yea you having to assemble FTL im sure that sux

imo and in my experience SMD is a really solid forum and buying used here is usually very safe. Caco.. ive never been ripped but i do come across fishy listings just make sure to be a lil careful is all ie:. 500 subs like new for 100 bux selling it just because type listing

hmmm off top, ill say the obvious stuff like, kicker cvr, alpine type r a lil extra but they are nice. umm save for a sa-12 i see em on caco for 150 all day, umm dc lvl 3's are likely just a lil bit more. ummm a power acoustik fubar will RAPE a cvr, but no one likes them.. sbut me should be cheap. ive heard a few things about obsidian audio.. hifonics brutus line.. circle or square theres a ton sonixelectronix is a good place to look. i went and looked, yep i covered about all the bases on new, used theres no telling, keep your eyes peeled theres some crazy deals every now and then on here and caco... but 100 isnt much, id say save just a bit more say 200 ish and youll end up with something you can be proud of instead of either something every kid has, or something no one every heard of junk

if it were a ford ranger , or even the same family of company, ie not cheve / gm id say theres a chance, not that itd be worth it, cuz it wouldnt and still take a long time. but going to the s-10 would prolly easilly double your work and really be not worth it.. either man up and tell the girl your gonna keep your toy or take a picture and off she goes.. :/

before you get reply raped or just no one even responds, things like budget might be useful, or new / used maybe.

ok cool, o was just thinking about this.. and there is a topic already. thanks for the heads up. no big deal a couple days or so is cool 6 weeks woulda been like damn. do you know how many ppl ordered one? just curious

I have never used either amp, but i have used a few hifonics amp which is the same company.. but if money is an issue you could save a few bucks and get the mb quart im sure its ok... the wiring kit will likely be junk tho if it were me id just go with the AQ, i mean itll match ur sub, its likely equaL to if not better than the mb quart, and the resale value on the AQ will more than likely be higher, when you wanna upgrade.. Go AQ youll be happy

subs are rated for 3k, depending on ur electrical you could see 3k+ daily... i mean just build to spec.. if your worried about the power just build to spec before displacment and run 12-16sq of port per, for daily i mean ppl who run xls might have better insight specifically but building something to spec isnt going to land you up shit creek either..

HiFis on ebay but their junk look local you could find some cvrs for like 40, prolly i did

first off port area is simply WxH. LxWxH would be port volume. anyway port noise is sorta like whistling kinda noise. think of forcing alot of air through a smallll hole... like blowing real hard on a bendy straw, it whines or whistles. as for damaging the sub.. meh its possible in certain scenarios, but in yours, dont worry about it. like someone else said itll more than likely act like a sealed box (with an admittedly large leak lol). no bog deal. bump it for now untill you can build a better box and they enjoy the improvement in your bumpage and in also learning something

i could be wrong, but i think it has been said that they should be around the first of august or so. Id expect to see the unit delivered to pre-order customers sometime in august.. :/

idk if im late or not ... 1 lb bob lol no 6999 lol yep late, that was fun for 10 sec..

lol hes got 7 posts and ray is like 4th order!!! i lold tbh man, get ur equipment. 1000w rms is decent but certainly not going to kill your cars electrical you could do the big 3 and thats it and be ok, maybe just replace ur reg battery with a decent sealed one xs power makes awesome bats. back to my point: build urself a sealed box, its very easy to build. put it in listen to it for awhile a month or two maybe and then build a ported box to spec of course. its only a lil harder to build. and make the decision for yourself. youll get better at building boxes, its fun, wood isnt that much money, and youll learn some stuff on the way. and then come back here and post what you like better

just because someone else has got up to 4ghz does not in any way mean that you can. you kinda going about the whole process wrong. to find ur max oc ur suppossed to go up in smal steps, given that there are many variables that can effect the stabilty of the platform, test harshly and if it passes, go back and bump up again. it takes hours not just ohh turn the multiplier here fsb here and poof 4ghz. on your specific question, id first check to see what ur temps are at full load oon stock settings to see if you really have headroom thermally. if so, and you likely do have decent temps you have to take the mobo into account almost more so than the cpu. i mean the cpu basically is voltage, heat and clock the mobo is voltages, transfer rates, well to keep it short just everything idk about ur specific hard as im not an intel person myself, but double check ur hyper threading clocks, on the mobo, the nb and sb links etc check your memory voltages and especially the timings... if ur really new to oc'in either learn up first or just leave ur timings alone. but again, oc'ing is about steps. first leave everything stock. start with the cpu bump up ur clock step by step untill u reach unstabilty. try to adjust the dividers to keep the memory and mobo cose to stock speeds. then try a but more voltage and see if u get ur cpu a lil but higher.. since ur on air i wouldnt reccomend too much more than a lil voltage increase.. just google ur cpus voltage ie:. core i3 550 max voltage, you should easily find the range to play with then once uve gotten ur cpu max, move onto memory bumping up 100mhz or so every step depending on your cooling MAYBE a lil more voltage but if any component is easily broken by improper voltage its mem. heck sometimes decreasing voltage gets ur higher. i usually liked using prime 95 and memtest for stability test. mobo testing usually falls in line with mem testing as the link speeds etc are interrelated. also idk if your populating all the mobo mem slots? some mobos "like" to have certain slots used when oc'ing also, possibly look into a mobo firmware update. many times older firmware dont oc well or dont even auto detect memory speeds so that might help. also, many of the new chipsets have "turbo" mode that auto oc for you... if your lazy anyway im tired, and not up on computers like i used to be, but if you take anything away from this its that just because john down the street got 4ghz even with mathcing hardware does not at all mean that you will, and that its very much a slow ass step by step process especially if you want rock solid stable. oh and intel < Amd and really oc'ers run liquid haha good luck and go do some research edit - omg my spelling is terible when its dark and im tired lol oops