P4killer_

I'm not being an ass, but bam! I keep em coming too. Read up on it. Okay we respect your opinion, knowledge, and point of view, but acting like "oh I'm cool, I really showed them" is kinda silly. Isn't it? I'm not being a jerk, but calm down Sparky.---- or I mean CHIEF

All in all looks sweet. Woulda Been real sweet if there were mirrors in the back of the enclosure.

On Crutchfield I think there's a little crunch 500.2 for 50-60 bucks it does like 200w x 2 channel iirc start there.

Hey man no worries better to over think things ten times and figure it all out than to do something on impulse and find out you dont like it, or you run into problems its all good, P4killer

and really you dont have to worry about bracing its just 2 12's and i think those cobalts are the low end like 500w or something iirc, just a simple 2 12 box will do. Use the RE calculator, itll do everything for you even a cut sheet i think. just google RE box calculator or something

Ive done both, used bolts and just drilled a hole and ran speaker wire through. I mean either or will do. Brass is better than stainless and iirc cheaper at that, i picked some up from lowes for a few bucks and my dmm reads the same impedance. do what ever floats your boat i guess. if there is any real dif. the bolts are more work for sure and will be more expensive (bolts, nuts, washers, ring/spade terminals) vs just wires running through. I guess the only advantage of bolts is that it is cleaner looking, and its a more secure connection (technically anyway), and if your running high power, or something you can have a set of nuts for each coil or speaker and test them independly without removing the woofer. just close your eyes and pick one

Seriously the only thing that compares is put on at the infamous super loud kanye autotune part. I'm only through zip 1 haha. Ill be driving around letting the songs play through. And sometimes I'm like HOLY SH**

My normal cd is fine, I put in the cd I burned in and even on like volume 10 its got boom. People at the stop lght are wtf looking at me. I have eq flat actually sub at like -3 loud off etc. .. These songs slam

Well ill just use general air requirements for an average 12. Generally its 1-1.2 cuft sealed and 2 cuft or so. So that being said 3 12's should be on in 3 cuft or a lil less since its shared air. Maybe like 2.7 cuft. As for ported its about 2 cuft each so roughly 4 cuft plus port displacement. Without designing a box and knowing the dimension of the port I couldn't say how much air it will displace. But well just say .5 cuft. So I'd say 3.7- 4.2 cuft should be ok. As for what would be louder its impossible to say for sure but in general ported > sealed. Again this is all general without knowing the details of your equipment. Hope this helps P4killer

It will stress out the amp, as im sure that amp is rated at 1ohm stable. so if you wire down to .5 ohm it will not only require more elctrical but also strain your amp. My point was if you run at .5 ohm you could break the amp. it might go into to protect which is fine but that means your pushing things too far. so if you continually put a higher strain on your amp it will eventually fail and maxxsonics might not honor the waranty if they knew your running at .5 i was just saying , just so you know before you run off putting your amp at .5 ohm, it could cause the amp to shut off, eventually break and if it does you might be sol. the reason why the amp is rated at 1ohm stable and not .5 ohm stable is because its not really built for that kind of strain. so it might work it might not- try it and see, i dont reccomend running it like that on a daily basis unless you a) have really good electrical or B ) can afford to replace / get it fixed if it decides to crap out.

Just to say, wiring to .5 ohms might work and if you have enough electrical to keep the voltage from dropping you should be ok. if you're only pushing 1600 or so it wont require that much electrical. but my point here is this: wiring down to .5 might work , but it will put a larger strain on the amp and more importantly it might VOID the warranty, and if the amp does fail at .5 ohm you might be sol. you might very well be fine running the amp like that, but its just something to keep in mind about voiding the warranty. at least check it out so you know where you stand if you decide to go the .5 route hope this helps P4Killer

Well it depends, it most likely does do something, if the wall completely separates the two sides , ie:. no gaps, then it obvi seals the two side off from eachother, which is to give each subs its own individual air space. It makes it so if one sub blows, you can still play with the other, if the subs were not in separate chambers, you could not bump if one sub blew. well you could but it might risk straining the other sub and obvi in this scenario you would unhook/ disconnect the blown sub. the other case is this: the wall does have a gap and does allow air to move through, then the wall is likely used for the box' port, which is extremely important and removing the wall is not reccomended and could damage your subs, or make them sound bad or a plethora of things may happen in short, leave the wall/box as it sits, and if you want more boom, ported boxes will def help. as many have suggested, bite the bullet and build your own. even if its crappy when you finish, it will only cost 50 bux max. and you could redo it and STILL save money over buying one from a shop. good luck p4killer. ps- sorry for the late reply btw

Oh God here we go. What is your budget What car What amp Suggestions: Dc lvl 3 Aq sdc12 or hd3c12 Sundown sa-12 American bass xfl12 And of course power acoustik fubar 12's lol But without any if the first information I listed its basically a shot in the dark and we can't really help you.

Dont cut it up, the sealed box is prolly built to spec and ported boxes are significantly larger than sealed. so its prolly not big enough to begin with , and adding a port will not only be difficult but just rob more air from your subs. As someone above me said, just buy a sheet, glue, screws and all for 2 12's ported will be roughly $50 and take you a couple afternoons max as long as you have the tools. its fun though def give it a try-- and you will have a better ported box that cost less and you built yourself. remember, if it aint broke, dont fix it-- dont cut your box good luck, P4killer

OK so i bought some and used some lil scraps ive got laying around. lets get started this is the SPAX screws in question comes with roughly 200 and a bit for you drill for 8 bucks at home depot iirc i thought i took a wider shot of the two pieces but yea you get the idea This screw is about half an inch away from the corner and as you can see it has split pretty badly, However the screw is 1.5 inches in length, and from the picture above on the opposite corner you will see the corner has NOT SPLIT it was placed approx an inch or so away from the corner. same split as described above NOW after taking the screws out these are pics of the screw holes in order first / top corner which did not split like the bottom minimal splitting, not bad second/ middle screw Roughly the same maybe a lil worse Lastly the third/ bottom corner screw Severe splitting One more pic zoomed out of the three OK so notes: one lets remeber this was just a mock up. No glue used obviously, and if im honest i just slapped these together w/o much caution. So if i was actually putting panels for my enclosure together i would make sure not to push too hard or screw too tightly. also, i put one screw insanely close to the corner on purpose, even a pre-drilled screw will likely split there. , but I would use extra caution when using these screws, dont put them close together i would say 3-4 inches apart min, in case they do split a lil you dont want a long continous split which might compromise the panel/ enclosure laslty if you decide to use these, dont go screw happy like a lot of people do, let the glue do the work just use a good quality glue ie:. titebond II or better so in my scenario, i think im going to use these screws and heres why: one- i dont plan on going nuts with screws 3-4 max per joint two i hate pre-drilling three- i do plan to silicone and resin the inside of my box maybe even use some matting in the seams one last note: the screws are 1.5 inches long which is a lil longer than id like, the shortest they offer in phillips head is 1.5 inches, they do have interior screws of shorter length but those of course are bit thin idk if i like those or not they also offer security bit headed screws which come with the bit to use and do come in inch and a quarter which is what i wanted, but i dont care for security head, if i lose that bit i have nothing else. they also sell the bit buy itself too, so in the end, i think these screws are OK be careful, let the glue do its job, and if your building something big or using alot of power in your build, consider some resin or even adding some fiberglass matting to the seams just to be safe. EDITS: alot of image, and formatting errors from copy/pasting.

put it this way I have a 105amp iirc stock alt stock bat under the hood and a kinetik 1400 in back im prolly going to need two 2400's or so too make enough power for my SAZ3000D without huge voltage drop, so you have a 3kw amp plus a 1kw mids and highs i reccomend at least 3 K2400's . The bottom line with electrical is this: it doesnt matter if your amp pushes 3kw, if you dont have the batteries/ alt to provide enough power, you will never see 3kw out of that amp period. low voltage aka not having enough power when pushing your system to the max puts a HUGE strain on your amp, and eventually it will fail... so either a) dont blast at full tilt for too long maybe just for demos but not all the time/ daily watch your voltage wire up to a higher impedance for example (Ill be running my SAZ3000D at 2 ohm which will put out 1500w untill i can get more batts and bring the impedence down and run at 3000w. with my 1400 in the back stock everything i clamped out 2200w or so at full tilt 1ohm but at something silly like 10.5 or so VDC which is too stressful to run that low so up to 2 ohm and 1500w to be safe and have a working amp down the road. You should do the same. or c) get more electrical to make the power you need. good luck dude and take care of your amp, or it will break and no bumpage for you

Just my opinion here, but for 4kw, an 800, 1200, even a 2400 isnt enough. Maybe for a burp or a few seconds you might be able to make 4kw of power... but only with the a 2400 or better. dont forget to take efficiency into account ... so a 4kw amp thats 80% efficient would require 5000w of input at 80% efficiency to make 4Kw... Maybe im overthinking things here if so my bad, but i dont think you will get anywhere close to 4000w with anything less than a couple of 2400's or better, but im also assuming you have a stock alt and factory bat under the hood. edit: bad grammar

Yea thats what their called SPAX screws! Ill buy some and let you guys know then, Ive got some MDF laying around so ill use em on thats first I gotta wait a week or for my next paycheck, before I get started, I could buy it all now and have like 20 bux to my name after all my bills, but Ima just wait a week.

At Home Depot figuring out how many sheets Ill need, pricing things out etc etc So the most annoying part to me when building, is pre-drilling, I have only one drill so changing bits all the time is annoying. So I saw these wood to wood construction screws that are "NON PRE-DRILL" while the big picture shows the screws having super beefy teeth or w/e the actual screws only look a lil beefier than reg "orange box" wood screws. The non pre-drill screws are 3 bucks more, but thats nothing if it means no pre-drilling. it says on the box no splitting, and they can support 450 lbs of torture so strength is no problem what you guys think?

I got a Sundown 3000D 550+shipping used for like four and half months and now it just sits under my bed doing nothing for months. Shoot me a pm if your interested. P4killer

Ok im looking for a camera for the g/f, she wants one for xmas and i dont know exactly what to look for. she already has an 8MP sony point and shoot its nice, but im looking for something to take rapid pictures. i know there are cameras that take like 10 photos real fast... im good with electronices, but with cameras my knowledge doesnt go beyond point and shoot really. my budget is 400 max , she needs something for concerts , to take quick bursts of several pictures , her current setup has too long of a delay between pushing the button and taking a picture. the camera doesnt have to be a point and shoot -- the only thing it has to do is take really fast pictures. shell use her reg sony for reg pictures and use the new camera for concerts/ important events. size really is of no concern. im looking for something not extremely complicated. more than a point and shoot, but less than changing lenses and tripods if that makes sense. MP id like 10+ but 8 or 9 is ok any feed back is welcome, id like to know what i can look for in the specs and what not to identify the fps im looking for black friday is coming, and maybe i can pick something up.

yea thats if your looking for how much wattage input is needed to make 3k ouput.. his calculation is still right however, if you supply the amp 3k @ .8 effeincy youll get 2400 output..

Those are just guidelines really and your calculation is right if you feed the amp 3k you'll get 2400 or w.e you said output approximately. But really I mean if you have a 3k amp you could use one k2400, d 2700, or 3100 and you would be okay. Two of those batts. Would be ideal imo. But you could make it by with just one depending on your voltage.

From what I have read. And stuff ah is what matters and so as a rough guidelines multiply your voltage bybthe ah rating for about how many Watts it can support. If you have stock elctrical 13v * the ah should be okay. Where i get confused is what ah rating to use . I saw in a tut video in the. Hifonics section Some people don't agree with this approach but never seem to explain why Good luck

3000 amp alt... ???