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Found 10 results

  1. Hey Guys! I am in need of some help inconnection with my battery connection. So at one point it occurred to me, when I played from my batteries only, one is taking more time to recharge than the other. It seemed to me, that the balance between them is equal(I think I was wrong), so I decided to investigate. I know that battery one takes the more "beat" than it should, because it takes 4-6 hours to recharge opposite to battery two which is only taking 1-2 hours, when placed on a charger. I also put on a test tone to see what is up, and started clamping for some amperage measurements. By this I found out battery one is providing 16X MORE amps than battery two. So here is the deal. I do not know what causes this problem, because I have 0 AWG copper wires, and I have 15 inches of wire between batteries counter to 4 feet between the batteries and the amplifier, so I don't think it is the wires. What I could come up with as a solution is to get a dual 1/0 to 1/0 power and ground input for the amplifier for balance purposes. Do you think it will help? Or is it just a waste of money? If you have any solutions/ideas please share it!! Thank you in advance!
  2. i got a sundown sae 1200d, running all zero gauge with a kinetik hc 800 in the back. today was playing a song i didnt know and it started out really quiet so i turned it up, then blast the music then the amp cut out. now my amp will turn on for a few seconds depending on the volume then go to protect for around 5 seconds then back on and repeat. i've read to check all grounds which mine seem fine. then heard something about the fets. not sure what to do...hope its not blown..
  3. Hi, i have a huge problem with my headlights dimming when the bass hits. I understand why it does it, and i kinda get what i should do, but i feel i should have already done enough to solve it. Ok, so i have a kicker lx1000.1 amp, two 10" L7 solobaric kicker subs in separate ported boxes. I have 1/0 awg wire (copper not aluminum) all throughout my system. (power wire, grounds, all that) i also have a 1.5 farad capacitor. I just did the Big 3 upgrade yesterday but the problem isn't any better. If it is any better it is VERY little. Even at about 2000 rpms its dimming enough to tell it when driving. Capacitor is showing 14.1 volts when no bass hitting and on certain songs, its dropping to 12 volts. I'm questioning if i did my big 3 upgrade correctly... I followed a step by step instruction online. seemed legit. What i did was run wire from alternator to fuse box, then from fuse box to hot on battery. Then for my ground i ran wire from inner fender (same place factory ground was) to the battery. I also included another ground wire from my engine to the chassis. I did everything it told me to do. I can't tell any improvement. I've read that next step is either a high output alternator (which i don't wont to buy because i don't have the money right now for that) or installing two alternators, which is also expensive. Maybe a bigger capacitor? or different type of battery? Battery was tested not long ago and showed it was good-great. So unless another alternator then im stumped. Somebody help and also tell me if i did my big 3 correctly. Thanks!
  4. hey there, my name's Tom and im from lithuania. so i own a mk4 golf and have not so special system that i like. the reson that im starting this topic is about a head unit i got today. so the problem is that when i plugged in the alpine radio it worked fine, subwoofer was connected to kicker kx1200.1 and the amp was connected to head unit through signat cables. it was playing fine until i turned the ignition on. then i saw abit of smoke coming out of the unit so i unplugged it and then plugged back again. the radio seemed to work fine but the subwoofer input no more. i dont know what the problem is and what could have gone wrong thank you for your help
  5. I don't know how this happened, but I had to replace my amp's power-wire-holding screws. I had an issue with the amp cutting off when it was turned up more than half volume. I assumed it was a wiring problem. I thought the only thing it could be was the crappy job I did in attaching the sub wires to the terminal cup in my box but I was wrong. I looked at all my amp's wiring to find that its power wire terminals had no screws holding the wire down. I mean they were COMPLETELY GONE, as if someone unscrewed them and put them elsewhere. I have never had a reason to unscrew them other than to hook up my voltage meter but I tightened them back. Would they have just unscrewed themselves from vibration? btw i have a Brutus 1200.d.
  6. Hi guy, So here's my problem, I just did a front to back run of ofc 0 gauge. The problem is that due to the wire thickness, the foot board panel on the driver side refuses to fit back into place. Car is an 04 Nissan quest. Any advice? I was thinking to trim some of the rubber off of the wire to reduce size but it seems like a risky idea.
  7. Hey I have a problem with my amplifier getting very hot after just a short time of playing, and it shuts off. (takes a while before it cooles down) I have 2 cerwin vega vmax 15". 2*3,2ohm coils on each sub, so both subs are wired in parallel so it reads of 1,6ohm. The amplifier I have is a dynabel monoblock, 1200watts rms @ 1ohm. So it should be ok to drive those two subs? I just cant find the problem that makes the amp go so hot. Ive allready burned my last amp and I dont want it to happen again. Ground is looking nice, I grounded under my extra wheel in my trunk to bare metal with 4awg wire, since my amps power wire is a 4awg. From my battery in front i run a 0 gauge wire into a split block to the back of the trunk to make sure i get enough power for the amp. So the 4awg power wire is only 1 foot long from the splitblock. So i guess the the power and grounding is more than ok for this amp. I live in norway so hot weather isnt really a problem hehe. Anyone have any tips or experience to cases that make amp go hot?
  8. Hey guys! So I've been busy shopping some batteries and cables for my setup, so when the car is not running I'd be still capable of powering my setup fine. I bought some KnuKonceptz OFC 1/0 gauge wire, and ended up with two AGM batteries that I purchased used, but still in fine condition. (one 95 AH , and one 105AH) In order to get the max out of them I strapped the two together in hopes to get the sweet 200AH I was looking for based on this online calculator: https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html When I set everything up, and tuned the amp, there came the big moment, to clamp test everything. I was suprised, but I only got around 800 RMS, on test tone. As far as amps go I got myself a Hifonics Brutus BRX 2016.1D, and a pair of Rockford Fosgate P3 D4 subs. The reason why I wrote down everything this meticulously, is because I wold like to know what could went wrong with my little test. According to my calculations I shold easily get 1000 RMS, with this particular choice of equipment. The batteries are capable of producing this kind of power, the wiring is overkill for 1k I think, the amp is rated at 2kw and even if half is true it is still 1kw, the subs are CEA-2031 rated and knowing Fosgate they are up to the task, I got the 200A fuse as recomended by the manual of the sub, so I don't know what could cause this power drop. What do you guys think can be the cause of the problem? Any thoughts wold be useful! ??
  9. Ok, i have a MTX 9500 12'' SVC 4ohm on a Soundstream Rub1.2500. The sub is getting around 1000wrms. The sub sounds good and is not blown/ damaged in any way. But on low notes around 13-23hz the sub ''sucks in''? It still moves but it sinks all the way down to were the lip is wrinkled? my voltage is good, and theres not much that can go wrong when wiring a SVC sub... any suggestions??
  10. Originally had 2 JL W1v2 running off a alpine Mrp-m500 (so 250 each sub). With this setup didnt really have much voltage drop just slight. NOW Im running 2 JL W3v3 running off a JL HD750/1 (375 each sub). Before I got the 750 installed today, the subs running off the 500amp were slamming. With the new amp installed I thought they would sound noticeably louder but they actually sounded lower. All gains set with DD1. When I read the battery with car and audio on the batttery read at 13.4 but as soon as i raise the volume to normal listening volume the voltage drops to 12.1-2. Also the headlights barely flicker..you have to look really hard to notice but then again my lights are HIDs. My car battery is about 3 years old which I know is cutting close to needing to be changed. My immediate plan of action was to purchase a Yellow Top optima for car battery. Is this the best option or should I keep the car battery there and wire the yellowtop in the trunk with the amp? Is this what the problem is or could it be something else??
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