Search the Community

ok i have 4 sa12's on a alpine mrx-m240 benched almost 2700 with a fuse rating of 175 amps. i also have a 4 channel treo engineering ssx40.4 amp i think fuse rating of 40 amps. well yesterday i went to my friends house and i was listerning to my system fairly loudly around volume 20 on a alpine headunit and the amp shut off (thinking the volts dropped to 10volts no lie) my gauge was moving so much. well i have a 200 amp alt i dont know what brand got it from my sundown dealer and a kinetic hc1800 battery. well i want this problem fixed asap but i dont know what to do where to even start. grounds, battery(s) i dont know thats why i need your help. oh everything is ran off of 0/1 gauge wire except to the treo 4 channel thats 4 awg wire. everything is fused. so please help thanks

Got this stuff from Snafu @ CE Auto Electric supply about a month ago and decided to go a different direction with my build. Everything is great quality, it's all crimped and heat shrinked. First is some 8 gauge wire. Its JL Audio brand 735 strands tinned. Asking $5 a piece plus actual shipping. The red pieces are each 3 feet long with a #10 fork terminal installed on one end. The clear pieces are each 4 feet long with a 1/4 inch eyelet on one end. I also have a 3 position ATC fuse holder with power distrobution. It will come with 2 30 amp fuses. Asking $10 plus actual shipping. If you buy everything I can do $25 plus actual shipping cost. Thanks for looking! This would be great for installing an entry level system or 2 small amps. All you would need is a run to the back to the distro block. PM me for more info

hi everyone. I recently installed some new subs and amp. 2-15" RE Audio XXX and a MA Audio HK-4000D. Heres the problem.Amp is going into protection mode when i open it up all the way due to (as far as I can tell) voltage dropping.It holds 13.3v most of the time but certain tones drop it below 12v shutting it down. Ive done the Big 3. Got 3 Kinetik batteries .2 HC800's under the hood and a HC3800 in the trunk. currently running stock alternator 120 amp. there is no available H.O. alternator made for my car(2002 hyundia XG350L) looking into having my stock alt beefed up. there is 1\0 gauge rockford fosgate power cable throughout. Also something weird,when the trunk is open it will shut down at half volume.trunk closed almost never shuts down... Any Ideas?? Thanks

if i have a skar skv2 - 4500.1 WITH A 450 AMP FUSE RATING and it has two power inputs but im using dual inputs on each power input (2 1/0 to 1/0 reducer) what size fuse do i use on each power wire?

Hey guys. I'm trying to add a Taramps Smart 3K Bass to my system. Currently, I already have 3 amps in place for bass/mids/highs, I would like to replace the bass amp. At the moment, I'm just not sure what exactly needs to be done to achieve this (another 0 gauge run, another battery, etc.) Am I able to just add another run of 0 gauge for the new bass amp from the battery? (Highlighted in green below) Current set up: 2006 Dodge Magnum R/T 345A Autotech Alternator (Custom built/painted) XS D3400R 80Ah AGM Battery upgraded all power/grounds to 0 gauge Taramps TS2000.4 for mids Taramps DS800.4 for highs Hifonics 1600.1 for bass Current voltage sitting in high 13s, no significant drops I've noticed. Feel free to share your opinions. Thanks!

I'm new to the higher end of car audio and within the last month melted the heatsyncs in my previous amp; after i got a new amp I was asked if i was going to keep the amp cool, so in an attempt to keep overheating not an issue I got an SMD-TM1 along with a 5 pack of ARTIC P8 PWM PST fans. Whilst I've searched for an amswer on how to get power to the SMD-TM1, and then wire the fans to the SMD-TM1, I've come up with nothing. I've theorized a possible layout and will submit a picture of it (the amp rack) there you will see multiple distribution blocks going from a single 1/0 guage to 2-4 guage wires, one wore going to my amp and the other 4 guage wire going to a second distribution block that then distributes the power to 4- 8 guage outputs. As for wiring the SMD-TM1 to the fans I am at a loss as to how I'm supposed to do that.

wats up guys i started this big project here my plans- fiberglass whole back and dashboard install tv and speakers in the dash move gauge set to the other side something new ya know hook up my sound system 4 subs 8 speakers 2 tweeters 3 amps and more to come hook up a kill switch add 2 more batterys wire the hydralics better and swap out to better hoses get a gauge for the air tank get a diffrent air tank and compressor relocate ignition install xbox 360 change the lights and wiper switch to a normal switch no stock big thing make center console speakers to the back no back seats only front need the vents for ac http://s1073.photobucket.com/albums/w385/robsharples35/any tips and any advice while i post some more pics threw out this week would be helpfull honestly i have only a lil clue in what im doing never fiberglassed before but i like the challenge

I am thinking about putting 1 12" Sundown ZV4 12" REV 2 in the trunk of my bmw 530i. Most likely going to face the box towards the seats since my seats fold all the way down. I will most likely get a 220 amp H/O alt from exsessive amperage, its about the biggest I could find from a notable company (singer, mechman, dc power, or anyone else that might be named has already been contacted and they wont make one for my car). I will probably have 2 extra batts (xs power d3100s probably) and a stock replacement, big 3 and a couple runs of 0 guage ran. My questions are, What size amp can I get away with here? I was hoping to go with a sundown SCV-3000d just to keep it in the sundown family. Would this be too much for a single ZV4 12? Reccomendations welcome... Would a straight back facing box or maybe a rear deck blowthrough get me better numbers? Would the elictrical I have be enough to keep this amp happy? Please help me out, all opinions are welcome. Any opinions on possible numbers? Any help is greatly appreciated. (No im not a "sundown fanboy" I actually just had a 15" FI BTL N2 on a BC3500d in my last vehicle, I just dont have the room for it in this one and wanted to try something new)

I installed 2 rockford fosgate P3 2012 models on to a 500-1b mono block. after about an hour an a half of driving a night my radio started acting up. I would turn the volume and the radio would temporarily shut off. Would this imply that i need to upgrade my alternator or I could I just install a capacitor? As well I'm not sure what I wired my subs to. There 4 ohms with dual voice coils. One positive and negative to the other voice coil. Then to the box terminal to the amp. And same thing for the other. The two subs are not wired together. Im concered because i think that wiring to two 1-ohm sub loads, but Im not sure. If anyone could please explain it would be a big help.

Ok so yesterday my car went crazy on me, i turned it off, took the key out, and the car would still run, only until my toggle switch for my amplifier was turned to off. however when the car was on with the keys in it and i turned the switch off, the bass still remained. i got a new switch, that didnt work, unplugged everything from my amp and plugged it back in, everything went back to normal. now my problem is, without changing any setting on the amplifier, bass level ranges over time and clips at less then half according to the bass knob. before i had it so i could crank it up all the way and bass would remain constant and not clip. can someone help me in diagnosing this problem?????