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Found 65 results

  1. I have done some research and started installing my sound system with the factory radio, I have found that the acc wire in my car is supposed to be orange but when i installed everything and shut the car down the radio and amps stay on any ideas on where i went wrong
  2. I'm new to the forums and I'm fairly new to the audio game and trying to do it my self. So keep that in mind. I have 50 feet of 1/0 xs power wire. I plan on doing the big 3 first. I have a 2005 Cadillac Escalade. While doing some read ups I over saw that there is no body ground. Anybody else have this issue? 03-06 Tahoe, Suburban, Escalade, Yukon all are pretty much the same. I plan on getting 35' of 2/0 for the power run to the back to a power/ground block. Will the 1 power run be enough? Am I on the right track? Insight and tips from you pros would be greatly appreciated. System is nothing spectacular. Have: Kenwood Headunit 1500 watt amp for 2 Alpine Type R Looking at 600x4 amp for door speakers New door speakers
  3. https://www.instagram.com/p/BiRx6X-gFT1/ , any suggestions would be great , its a 2017 subaru impreza, so i have no idea about the big 3 , it looks very confusing. the alt positive connects to the fuse box with a different gauge wire. plus i cant find a high output alt to fit it at the moment.
  4. Hi I'm planning on doing the big 3 upgrade on my 2000 Chevy Malibu it has a stock alt and i'm using an acid battery also I'm not able to get access to my oem engine block to chassis ground wire so i'm wondering if its ok to use the alt mounting bracket bolt as engine ground instead? I read somewhere that the big 3 can cause acid batteries to explode which leads me to asking if I should wait and upgrade the battery first to an agm then do big 3 or will I be okay for couple of months also planning on upgrading alt but having hard time finding one for my car...
  5. I need help. I bought 2 Sundown 10s E series V3, and a Rockville 6000W / 1500W RMS amp. I'd like to put both subs in my truck behind the rear seat. Ported if possible. If only one sub is needed I'll sell the other one. I'd like low bass. Behind my seat there's 60" across the back. 8" deep at the bottom. I'd like to go 20" tall. (Wedge box) who can help me with port size/type. The sub requires 1.2 cubes tuned at 32-34hz ported. I'll build it if you post it. Thanks for the help.
  6. Hi! New here! So I have just ordered this amplifier (don't bash it or anything, I am satisfied with the purchase and the amp's performance isn't in question) I currently have two Alpine Type-R 2013 SWR-12D2 12" subwoofers. They are 2ohm DVC. I ordered this amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67935_Hifonics-BRX2000.1D.html Hifonics BRX2000.1D Now, the question or concern that I have is getting these subs wired into the amp for a final load of 2ohms. Normally, this would be easy as there are many diagrams showing how this can be done. What I cannot find is for this amp in particular. It has -/- and +/+ right next to each other in that order where the speaker output terminals are. How exactly do I go about wiring these? I'm a visual learner, so if anyone could draw me a labeled diagram with MS Paint that'd work perfect. Thanks in advance!
  7. Im looking into some train horns, and I just dont know much about them... I found the Hornblasters Rocker 228 horn kit, and for $320, im just not sure how it holds up for the price. Im just looking for some insight on train horns in general, and if that kit is worth getting. I want loud and deep, but I dont want to spend $1000. The $300ish price range was what im looking for, so if anyone knows something better for that price, that would be great. I dont need anything crazy, just enough to scare my friends if they walk in front of my truck lol. Space isnt much of an issue either. Thanks in advance for help on this
  8. Okay... I know most people hate capacitors..but i like them. Anyways I have two twelves and two tens. I have a 10 farad capacitor. One of my amps only has one set RCAs and the other has two. Can anyone help me on wiring this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Wade
  9. need help with wiring a .5 farad cap to a installed 2 farad cap, can this be done?, ...thinking about maybe one exploding or a short... any sugg or past exp with this, would be great, tnx
  10. Hey guys, New to the forums as a member, but not new as a reader. I have recently purchased a car that I want to "do right" from the start and wanted some input. I have done a lot of searching, but it seems that I could not find a similar situation already posted. 2006 Dodge Magnum SXT (3.5L) Questions 1) The main battery is already in the trunk of the car (next to the spare tire). This already has what seems to be factory 1/0 gauge wiring running to it from the alternator. So my question is. a) Do I stick with this wire or rewire it with aftermarket wire. If I stick with this wire, should I fuse it before the battery (it currently is not fused). 2) I also want to run 2 more batteries. Should I make a separate run from the alternators to these batteries, or simply hook these batteries up to the main battery and run them like that? 3) Will doing the "big 3" mean as much to me, since the initial run to the main battery (and future additional batteries) be so long (at least for the power wire). 4) Depending on if I keep the current main power wire, or run multiple runs, will either of those affect if the 2 additional batteries (which will be the same) are different from the main battery? I am planning on running around 3000-4000 watts RMS total (including mids and highs) for this car. I have already ordered a 320 amp hairpin Singer alternator. Any knowledge is much appreciated. The thing that is throwing me off from reading most posts is the main battery is already in the back.
  11. What's up guys? I am trying to come up with a way to switch between my selenium horns underneath my yukon and my rear mids/highs on the fly. I am just looking for some ideas. I'm not sure if there is some type of 3 way switch that would allow the input of 2 sets of speaker wires to toggle with one output going to the amp. Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated. I would like to mount the switch on the dash, then I can just quickly change my crossover settings on the head unit when i swich inputs. The horns won't be used often, I mostly bought them for tailgating and shows. Thanks.
  12. Hey guys, noobie here. I need some help on this project I want to do. I want to have a oil pressure gauge, water temp gauge, and a manifold vacuum gauge. My plan is to have 3 gauge pods on top of a single din spacer and Plexiglass, fabricated in the bezel.The single din spacer is where i can place and have my wires organized, and the Plexiglass is where I will be mounting the gauge pods on top of. Here are some pics of the bezel. Single din spacer taped to it. Here i have the gauge pods temporarily set on the single din spacer but its where the plexiglass will be. they are autometer angeled gauge rings #2234 that I bought. I was going to epoxy the single din spacer and plexiglass to the bezel, and epoxy the angled gauge pods to the Plexiglass, then cutting a hole in the plexiglass so the gauges can go in, but didnt know what to do about the empty gaps. Sorry for not uploading a pic of the plexiglass on top of the single din spacer, didnt have it cut out yet. My question is, how do I make the gauge pods one piece with the bezel? Is there some sort of filler to fill in those gaps and make it one piece? And if so what type of filler should I use? And what steps should I take If you guys have any suggestions or advice please tell me. Thanks.
  13. Hey folks. First post here and I love the forum. I am trying to find out if I can run a high-level input from my factory head-unit to two separate amps (i.e. put a T in the head-unit output and run each to a small amp). I have a Jeep Wrangler JK, and have the top down/doors off a lot. I need to keep the cheap ugly OEM radio for anti-theft reasons. The OEM radio is TERRIBLE, but I am stuck with trying to polish a turd. I also can't have a sub in the back, or someone could just reach in and walk away with it. Everything will look stock when I am done with it. My plan is have: 2x 3.5" speakers in dash. 2x 5.25" subwoofers in the sealed lower dash pods. 2x 6.5" coaxials in sound bar above my head. 2x bass-shakers in the seats. and 2x JL HX 280/4 amplifiers hidden under the dash I need cross overs on each of them, so this is why I need two separate 4-channel amps with high-level inputs. Thanks for the help!
  14. An Idea of mine. After being told how wrong I am I'm changing the title to an "IDEA" for a wiring diagram.
  15. Im looking for somebody in the area who could help me with my wiring. Ive already made a topic to try to get help, but it would be easier if somebody could look over my work and see if i messed anything up. Here is the link by the way: http://www.stevemead...please-help-me/ I dont have much money at the moment, but if audio is your hobby then we have something in common. I might even buy the beer and lunch =] PM if you dont mind helping me out. PS, I couldnt find a section for my topic. I hope my topic is considered general. Perhaps i should have asked this in Wiring, not sure.
  16. Hey guys, just want you opinion before I purchase this. I want to make my setup look cleaner. This should also make my installs go much easier as well. Was thinking about mounting somewhere in the trunk. Do you think this would work? I will have (2) Q2200.1's, (1) Q4-120, and a Kenwood XR400-4 coming off it. Will have all my batteries in parallel off this as well (total of 4 batteries). What do you guys think? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJUZUMI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1NZSGX8D9PVM7 Thanks
  17. I have made some door pods for my car amd I am running 3 6inch cadence mid bass and one 3 inch bullet tweeter in each door I am using a 800x4 amp not sure of the brand but would like to get some help on how would be the best way to wire them in instLl any help would be great heard of wiring them in series butnot sure if I do will the amp fry or my speakers fry so any help would be great
  18. Hey guys, Im new to this stuff and dont know much about all of it yet and i have a few questions about wiring my subs to my amp. I have 2 12" RF P3D4s wired @4ohms to my 2-channel SoundStorm SSL EV2000.2 amp. the amp is 2 ohm stable and what im trying to do is get more power but i cant seem to find any diagrams on how to wire my subs to 2ohms. So basically my question is, how do I wire 2 12" 4 ohm Subs to 2 ohms on a 2 channel amp. I would really appreciate the help. Thank you! Conner Adams
  19. Hi all, I recently had a sub cook itself, I got the sub replaced but the company wouldn't tell me if it was my fault or manufacturer fault (guessing manufacturer as I managed to get it replaced). I just want to ensure I have wired it correctly in case it was my fault. I have a Soundstream Tarantula TX1.1300D amp and now have a Soundstream SPLX-122HX. Sub specs http://soundstream-aus.net//soundstream_splx_subwoofers.html Amp specs http://soundstream-aus.net//tarantula_amplifiers.html If I understand it correctly, to power the sub at 2 ohms, both positive terminals on the amp should connect together and power both coils on the sub, and same with the negative. Can someone please confirm this or correct me as I don't want another sub dying on me. Thanks in advance
  20. Hi, I drive a 2004 Buick LeSabre with stock alternator and stock electrical wiring. I believe I have finalized my decision on what system I want next, which is either: Option A SCV-1500d + 1 X-12 @ 1 ohm Option B SCV-2000d + 1 Zv4-15 @ 1 ohm Now, here is my predicament. Either way whichever one of these systems I finally decide on, I will most certainly need an upgrade on my electrical system. Being that Option A equates to roughly $850 and Option B equates to roughly $1200, I'm trying to find the best single upgrade I can make to increase my voltage or attempt to make it constant so I don't experience any drop in sound. My total budget was $2000 for this build. I still need a custom box, and probably 0 gauge wire for either option, which probably eliminates Option B, sadly. TL;DR: Best upgrade to keep my voltage high?
  21. Hello guys, got questions on many this i know some of the most basics. I have a set up right now all electrical stock running 2 kenwood kfc w3013ps wired down to 2 ohms pushing 450 rms a piece powerd by a Hifonics BRX1400 with 4 gauge wiring to the amp only. buuuut I want a little more bump from my system. Im driving a 2000 buick lesabre (dont hate) with a 105a alt my main question is doing the big 3 my battery is under my rear seat and i also have 2 fuse boxes one under the hood and one next to the battery so is this how i would wire it? btw do you keep the original power wire? (will be using 0 gauge) Alt>front fuse box Alt>Battery Battery>rear fuse box Battery>amp Battery>chassis Engine block>chassis or Alt>front fuse box>battery>amp/rear fuse box then keep everything else the same? I will be upgrading my battery to a XS power. Looking to remove my rear seat and do a walled off build (not sure if im calling it right) and get two SoundQubed HDS315 1200rms (get a second Hifonics brx1400) or two SoundQubed HDS215 600rms a peice (and keep the amp i have now) What would you do? trying to do this under 600$ My main thing is im trying to keep my stock alt and my voltages steady. Please no hate.
  22. Hi, I hope I am posting this in the correct section of the forum. I recently acquired a second subwoofer. My amp (Pioneer GM3500T) is a 2 channel with the option to bridge. originally I had 1 sub running off each of the channels at 4 OHMs (what the amp is rated for). I then decided that the results werent too good so I tried wiring them in parallel. As both the subs are 4 ohm the load should be 2ohm I cannot find anywhere on the pioneer website about this amp being wired at 2 ohms. I was testing it and it seemed fine plus the subs were ALOT louder. It also didnt seem to get too hot at all. So my question is: Is it ok to have the amp at 2ohms? NOTE THE SYSTEM IS IN MY ROOM System: 1 x Pioneer TSWX 303 in seperate box (4 ohm SVC, about 1 year old) 1 x Pioneer TSW 300r in seperate box (4 ohm SVC, dont know age but i know it is much older than other sub) 1 x Pioneer GM3500t [2x 200W (4 Ω) or 1 x 400W (bridged) (4Ω), I have it wired at 2Ω BRIDGED without problem) 1 x 500 watt PSU which gives about 390 watts 12v Voltage at any ohm level is 12.4 without playing and 12.05 at higher than listening volume.
  23. I had recently posted a thread but it gives me an error when i try to open it, well here i go again, Hello to everyone im new in the forum and i just want to add im not a noob in car audio but im not a professional as well, i do understand most of the things that consist in car audio, now heres my question i bought a system for very cheap, 150 dollars got a power acoustik mofo 12 dual 2 ohm and a Hifonics GLX1400d box is tuned to like 34 or 35 hertz, its actually pretty loud now i understand power acoustik is not that good but this mofo is actually not bad for wat i got it for, i install all of this in a 2004 chevy cavalier with stock electrical, this car comes with a 105 amp alternator which is not to bad for the size of the car, im using real 2 gauge cable to connect the amp to the battery and ground, i did this installation in a rush yesterday because im going to travel tomorrow all the way to salt lake city from NM, so i wasnt able to set the gains with my multimeter i did everything by ear heres my problem though i think i set the gains pretty good i, method i used was getting a hard hitting song lowering all gain down and then turning it up till the subwoofer wouldnt get any louder then i lower it a bit more, bass boost is all the way down, bass level on head unit is all the way down, i have a alpine deck so it has a subwoofer feature that i need to use at +15 other wise the subwoofer wont even move, im only using 14 gauge speaker wire to connect this subwoofer idk if that matters, i got stock wal mart battery havent even done the big 3 upgrade yet like i said i really dont have time for that right now, the subwoofer was getting real hot within the 5 minutes of playing it on full tilt and it was getting kinda smelly but not alot, so i thought i was either overpowering the sub or sending clipping signal, checked voltage at battery and volts wont drop from 13.70 V in the hardest hitting song i could find, then i checked the voltage on the amp and the amp would stay around 12.50- 12.70 13.00V but heres the thing on a song that has a really long consistent bass note the voltage on the amp would randomly dropped from the voltage i said above down to like 11.7 even 10.8 but this only happens for like less then a second it happens really fast then goes back to above 12.5V on the same bass note of the song i was wondering if this could be like a bad ground somewhere in the car because i got the ground from a bolt on the seat didnt even sand anything because i was in my uncles house and i ran out of light and another question is how come i read above 13.70 volts on the battery but alot less on the amp?
  24. Hi i have 3 2ohm svc subs laying around and want to make a ported enclosure for them. My amplifier puts out 1200 at 2ohm and 2000rms at 1 ohm. Is there any way i can wire them to meet any of these ratings. What would they drop down to if i was to wire them in parralel. also is there a formula to work this out for svc and dvc subs ? Hope some one can help regards sufyaan
  25. I have two amps in my car. one powers the door speakers (400 amp rms - rockford fosgate amp) and other power 12in subwoofer (750 amp rms - rockford fosgate amp). Both the amp is getting power through 4 gauge wire and grounded with 4 gauge wire. The door speakers work great, but the subwoofer hardly moves. I tried two different head units (stock & after market) and yet the sub hardly moves. The after market HU came with dedicated subwoofer output, while with the stock HU, i had to splice into front speakers wires to get signal for subwoofer. In both cases, the sub was weak with gain all the way high.The sub is getting signal, but its not moving the way a 12in should move. It only starts to move properly when i increase the bass boost & punch eq (i know this is not good). I went through some trouble shooting - making sure ground is securely attached, power etc etc. Yet, still can't figure out what is happening. I took it to a stereo shop and he agreed to diagnose for $65. But i've always had issues taking my car to shops and i'm wary of taking the car to the shop. What do you guys think is happening? Is there any one in chicago who might be able to take a look and help me out !!! Thanks,
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