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Found 28 results

  1. Hello my name is rich and i am currently building a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer my daily driver into a 10k daily driver. I have been doing car stereo since i was 15 and this is going to be the second most advanced system that i have ever put together. So need as much help and criticism as possible. Want to learn as much as i can and have a nice build. If you haven't read my other build log i started building a 97 hyundai Tiburon and after having my system up and going for a little over a month the trans blew. was loud as hell needed work but oh well. so had to find another daily driver and wasn't going to give up system so decided to go truck route (5 kids 4 girls, 1 boy) My goals for this car are upper 140s-150 dbs (if possible and musical) (not metered yet) to learn as much as possible (fiberglassing, body work, vinyl work) decent sq (don't want subs to over power everything) start with equipment that i have and slowly but eventually build to bigger and better equipment Build it better then my 03 mitsubishi lancer oz rally (that i miss like a child) alpine iva-d310, pxa-h701, 420i, audiocontol matrix plus, ps2 slim in glovebox, cf Vr804, 2 Vr1000d, excessive amperage 200 amp alt, 2 kinetic power 2400, 1 run tsunami 0, big 3 0 Tsunami, 2 sets of cf x6s one front one rear, 2 mtx 9500 12in d4s, tons of dynamat extreme, varad 1000 color leds in front foot wells, yellow leds in pocket under radio, yellow florescent lights in door pockets walker front bumper canary yellow Loud and Clean daily driver (final goal) (demos, car shows, and competitions) Here is the list of the equipment that i currently have HU: pioneer deh 80prs (network mode on active) RCAs: Streetwires, Connection Singer 340 six phase hairpin amp alternator XS Power D3400 under hood with Custom 1/2 Aluminum Bus Bars (made by me) 1/0 Gauge 3 runs SHCA OFC Big 4 double 1/0 OFC SHCA OFC Distrobution Blocks S.M.D., and directed audio 2 Stinger SVMR Voltmeter (Red) (one for front batt and one for rear Battery bank) Skar sk85.4 85x4 @ 4 ohms on 2 sb acoustics neo dome tweeters MMATS Sq4100 100x4 @ 4ohms on 4 silver flute 8s (4ohm) Subs: 6 12in AB xfl d2s soon to be 6 fully built ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4 Sub Amp: 2 DC 5ks with TM dual Inputs and TM quad speaker imputs 4 XS Power D3100s with custom 1/2 aluminum buss bars in rear (made by me) Here is a list of equipment that i want or need may change Cooling for amps in rear More interior speakers??? (maybe birch roof) Jy or limitless lithium 80ah Another singer 340 alt get better HU and eq/processor( and maybe a Tablet?)
  2. Starting a build log, dont know where to start this log so ill just post up pics. Btw im going for more of a SQ type of system. But keep in mind in a noob lol, just check out my posts from last year (joined around august i think) and you'll see how clueless i was lol. Theres my Mechman 240 alt with my Knu 4/0 (0000aught), ill be running 4/0 for big 3-4 and for front to back run to stock location rear battery.
  3. So I finally decided to make a build log,it's nothing like most of the builds here but hopefully some of you will enjoy it. It's mostly complete but still have more gear to get and make some changes in the near future hopefully.. Any and all comments/suggestions/recommendations are welcome...Here's the gear as of now...... RF T1462, RF T2652-S, RF P1T-S, RF old school power tweeters, Boston Acoustics SC60 and 5.25's, RF T400-4 (tweets), RF T600-4(mids), RF P500-4(temp for coaxial speakers but will be replaced with my P500-2 for DD W6.5's for midbass), RF T2500-1 bdcp, 2 RF T2D412's, RF 3Sixty.3, RFC10HB, Stinger power/speaker wire,sound deadener, volt meter and 220 amp alternator(replaced with EA),SHCA speaker wire, RF power & speaker wire, Second Skin B-stock deadener, NVX sound deadener & remote turn on module, Dynamat Xtreme, XS Power D3400 (front) D1200 (rear), Project DB dual 1/0 inputs, Excessive Amperage 300 amp alt, SMD DD-1,CC-1 & VM-1 (not installed yet), Tech Flex, Xscorpion heat shrink,split loom,terminal connectors,1/0 crimp connectors and some fuses, PAC turn on module...... I may have forgotten some things but they'll come up in the pics.. Pics coming soon,I have to look on my sd card for any pics I didn't upload to Photobucket..
  4. Figured I would share some pics of stuff I have been up too. List of equipment for the 2001 GMC Sierra AKA "The Black Nasty" Kenwood DNX9990HD !!!!! 6 AQ HDC3-v4 15s w/custom Kevlar Dust cap and AQ3 decal 6 HDC4 15s w/oversized 8 inch carbon Q caps 6 AQ SDC 2.0 8s 4 AQ3500D.1s w/copper Toolmaker Dual inputs 6 Q1-3500D.1s w/copper Toolmaker Dual inputs 6 Batcap 4000s and 1 Batcap 3000 4 SMD 340 amp Mechman yellow alts 8 AQ mr6.5 PA mids 1 Q1-2200 2 Q4-120s 8 SQ supertweets 400 ft Stinger Pro 1/0 wire - 700 ft total 250 ft Stinger Pro 8 gauge for speaker wire 45 sq ft Damplifier Pro on front half of roof Ported wall tuned in 30s(gotta have some secrets) On with the pics and rebuild to start within the next few weeks. Ultimate goal of build loud on music PERIOD!!!! Toolmaker inputs One of the two new additions Kevlar Dust caps How they look on the subs Custom AQ3 decal - Thanks Richard(Techforce)!!!!
  5. 1 Sundown SAZ-60002 Sundown ZV5 15's1 Sundown 200.4 v11 Sundown 50.44 Phoenix Gold Ti Component sets 6.5's1 SoundQuest SB2000 (front battery)Wall tuned to about 36.25hz...Awaiting:1 300amp Excessive Amperage alt2 Stinger SPP2150 for now....4 Sundown SXMP 8's
  6. So I purchased a 04 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain edition just recently and of course the stock sound system had to go lol. Right now the jeep has a 4" lift and some 31" tires on some M/T SideBiter wheels. Tinted 35% all the way around except for windshield which has a 35% 5" strip. Stock Radio (Lame) New Radio Okay here we go Sub box 2 15's in a 7ish cuft box tuned to around 30.5ish hertz. Kind of messy lol 2 american bass HD 15s dual 2 ohm Okay so I still got tons of work to do lol should have way more pics tomorrow. Right now the sub box has about 1/2 a gallon worth of fiberglass resin and all corners and joints where wood meets wood have 2 layers of fiberglass and to top it all off I bed lined the whole inside of the sub box.
  7. I am trying to decide weather to buy 36ft2 of stinger roadkill or to buy some knu Knoise kollosus that is only 14ft2. I am aiming to do the front doors, a little on the inside and sealing the large holes. Would it be better to buy roadkill so I can deaden more surface are like the doors and some of the floor or to buy the higher quality mat and only do some of the doors?
  8. Sup Guyz, Names Rob from Hawaii, new here figured I would start a build log of my 2005 Mazda 3i. I have a long way to go but I am pretty happy with the way my system sounds right now. I don't compete the scene isn't that big where I live and I did the entire build on my own. Its nothing special compiled with things I have acquired over the years. My system right now it consists of - Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-X6500BT EQ - Clarion EQS746 Steering Wheel Interface - PAC SWI-PS Front Sound Stage - West Coast Customs/Diamond D6 X-Over running Polk DB Tweeters and WCC/D6 6x8 Mids Rear Fill - Pioneer TS-A6880R Sub stage- 2 DD1512a in 3.15cu box tuned to 38hz (This is actually a replica of the specs of the Attrend approved enclosure on DD's website ) Amps- Front & Rears on Alpine PDXF4 Subs Rockford Fosgate P1000X1D
  9. Hey guys, fellow basshead here. My name is Zach, I'm 18 and I live in Sacramento, CA (home of the legendary Steve Meade). I wanted to show off my build a little bit, as well as get some criticism from you guys. Over the past 6 months or so I have been creating my first real, complete build on my own. I am kind of an intermediate when it comes to box building, and I have never built a box this large and custom, so the finished product isn't perfect, but I am really proud of it. Alright so a while back I had my license suspended for a few months (too many speeding tickets). Throughout the suspension I bought a new Sundown X15, I knew how beastly the sub was and I had never owned a 15, or any sub that had cost me over 100$. When I bought it I had intended to put it into my 2007 Nissan Sentra. Before I started building, I ended up finding a really good deal on an old 1990 Nissan 300zx and decided to buy it. I loved the car but I mainly bought it because it was half as much to insure the 300ZX than it was to insure my Sentra, due to my record being fucked up from speeding. So I decided to put my new Sundown 15 into the 300ZX. As some of you may know, the car is a 2 seater, and right behind the seats is the trunk, and there is very little trunk space to work with back there, especially for a sub of this size. But I was determined to figure something out. My full system: Sundown X-15 V.2 D2 Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D (I am upgrading the amp next month) 2 Optima Deep Cycle AGM Yellow Top Batteries 180 Amp aftermarket alternator Sony MEX-N5100BT Stereo 2 Boston 6.5 inch Speakers 2 Soundstream Tarantula 6x9 Speakers Stinger 4 Gauge OFC power wire Harmony Audio 0 Gauge CCA for ground Sky High Car Audio 8 Gauge OFC Speaker wire Check it out, tell me what you think: The Sub Tiny Trunk with some leather material laid out. Started building Progress pic, after some fiberglass resin Finished building then wrapped it in a nice material Alright so here's where I realized I fucked up and measured wrong, and making the box too big to fit into the car. Yeah, oops. I then made a small adjustment on the box to fit it properly It Fit! Perfect. Here's the amp on a little rack I built really quick. I know the amp is too small and weak for the sub, I bought it before the sub. Im upgrading my amp next month to either a Sundown SVC-2000D or the Crescendo 2200. If you have other amp suggestions let me know because I'm shopping around for one. The new 180amp Alternator Optima Battery in the trunk. I don't have a pic of the one under the hood, and it's dark out so I don't really feel like trying to get one at the moment. I replaced the blown alpine 6.5 inch speakers that were in the back with 2 Soundstream 6x9s (I know it doesn't look great) So that's all of it. I am still updating constantly, making stuff look better, upgrading equiptment. The next thing on the list is a new amplifier. Let me know some amp suggestions, the sub is rated 1500 watts rms but can handle way more. I'm considering the Sundown 2000 and the Crescendo 2200. Thanks for checking it out guys! I'm really proud of this build.
  10. My build in 2005-10 suzuki swift started last year from a humble stock stereo with a cheap rockmars 4 channel amplifier driving 311s4 pioneer in a ported 45hz box and 4 kenwood 718 coaxials(6x9) on the rear parcel shelf with stock 4 speakers 1 for each door. Started upgrading gradually Added Sony xmn1004 amplifier and ran jbl609c components in front doors on it in addition to previously mentioned items.Disconnected rear door stock speakers. Polyfilled the bass tube and tuning dropped to abt 37hz Moved on to swapping the cheap rockmars amp And added a separate amp for sub.this being a korean ads clone 1500.1 The pioneer sub didnt run well So swapped it for a jbl gt5 12D Added another jbl gt5 12 d in a new ported box tuned to 34.5hz Swapped th 12d subs for gt5 12s Removed th 4 kenwood 718 and added a pair of pioneer 6975v2 on rear parcel shelf Added hertz 170 comps in rear doors Upgraded head unit to pioneer 7450sd Upgraded wiring of setup Did big 3 with 0 gauge CCA sound quest with a 150 amp fuse Brought 0 gauge into the boot of my hatch back and put a stinger distribution block Added a 4 channel pioneer class d amplifier in boot of my vehicle Running 3 amp off a stock alternator Upgraded monoblock to soundstream rfm700.1 Removed rear class d amplifier Added hertz 165 mids only on top of bass tube as the system needed some warmth Added a 2 farad capacitor Upgraded RCA of monoblock to stinger 8000 series Other 2 rca are of soundquest Upgraded xmn1004 to class d pioneer 9604 During th process of upgrading i sound deadened 4 doors and boot of my car with stinger roadkill expert and added a voltmeter to my dashboard to keep an eye on voltage Finally upgraded head unit to pioneer 80 prs. Hence completing my build
  11. Haven't done one of these in a long time. But it pushes me to get back in the garage after a long days work..... This won't be just an audio build.....I'm gonna be taking care of the whole car thanks to some completely dumb luck in the past couple weeks. Don't really know where to start since a lot has gone on, so I'll take it from shaving the badges and power antenna about a month ago. A few weeks ago I stumbled upon a craigslist ad for a 95 SE....Difficult to find, leather interior, 5 spoke alloys I really wanted, and tires with still about 90% life on them so I picked it up for just over 300 bucks. so began the strip. I got a hell of a lot for 300 bucks, and the best part is I can ditch the chassis when I'm done and they'll pay me a couple hundred for it! Basically getting well over 1000 bucks in parts for a fraction of the price. The same week, another craigslist guy told me he had a prelude....that one was beat. However, He stripped the Tein coilovers off before trying to sell it. So I was able to pick those up for 140 bucks (cost 700 new)
  12. Alright i picked up this 2005 Ford Explorer XLS in mid February. this is what Ive been waiting for. My goal is clear.....hairtrick. I love low tuning and am not worried about numbers whatsoever. Anyway heres the equipment that I have gathered so far: 4 Crescendo pwx6 4 Arc Audio Kar ks5006 Knukonceptz 1/0 awg OFC JBL 4 channel Crescendo Symphony 4 channel 1 XS D6500 under hood 2 D1200 in the back Knu fuseholders stinger voltmeter Clarion eqs 746 Pioneer DEH8300UB Knu RCA's DC Power 270 amp alt 2 15" Sundown zv3 SAZ-3500D 35w 5000K low beams from DDM what i still need: sub amp(s?) Im thinking Sundown SAZ3500D, AQ 3500, or the new Crescendo 3500 coming out soon. 2 15s that I cant wait to order hopefully tonight or tomorrow. Lots of sound deadener from either Audiowrap or Second Skin. 5.25s from RF. Few accessories such as small gauge wire, box building,switches, 4 chan distribution block, orbital and detailing supplies (all Meguiars), and a dremel just cuz Ive always wanted one. On to pics.....
  13. So i just bought 2 Stinger voltage meters for my XS batteries to keep tabs on the volts and i am hoping to mount them on the side of the dash in my ford ranger. i dont have the tools or skills yet to do a whole fiberglass mold so i will be using a dremel to cut out 2 square holes to flush mount the 2 meters. the system i am getting will be hitting at least 140db so i need to figure out what adhesive (or whatever else i can use) to keep the meters stuck to the inside of the dash panel without having to use fillers. anybody got any advice how to keep these things in place?
  14. So this is my buddies car Ive been doing a install on. Been kind of an ongoing project for few months now Id say. Simple reason behind the time being so long is A) waiting on product here and there, Its a lot of work, C) My actual work time is very limited with his work schedule along with being a Professional Arm wrestler. So Usually I get 1-2 nights a week to work on his car from 7pm til daylight when the birds start to chirp. The car is getting close to being built (well the box is at least) lol So heres a little list of the product being used: Subs: Two Fi BTL N3 12s dual .7ohm coils (and Scott at Fi was nice enough to send a free pair of recones along with the subs) Amps: Two Sundown SAZ-4500D's (strapped at .7ohms). Two Sundown SAX-100.4s. Mids: Four Sundown NeoPro 8s (2 in each front door). Possibly a NeoPro 10 in each rear yet, not sure. Highs: Four Selenium ST-200 supertweets (2 in dash, 1 in each front door) possibly another tweet in each rear door, not sure. Mids and highs will be ran active. Battery: Three or Four XS Power D3100's (maybe more if needed) Headunit: Pioneer AVH-P4300 Wiring: Two runs Positive, Two runs Negative front to back Knukonceptz flex OFC 1/0. Roughly 260+ feet of Monster Cable 12awg for mids/highs. Kicker 3channel RCA's, Knukonceptz OFC 4awg for mids/high amps. AudioTecnix 4 or 8awg for sub wires. Stinger volt meter Sound Deadener: A little bit of everything Trunk was done before with "80mil Zillmat" that was actually asphalt based not a butyl/asphalt mixture like advertised, and was about 50ish mil thick.. Also got some Secondskin Damp Pro 80mil, and a good 50ish sq feet of 80mil AudioTechnix (need to order more for the 4 doors and roof). Alternator: Still not sure. DC Power XP series more than likely (seems I have no problem getting product from there). Otherwise maybe a Mechman. Whichever brand it is, It will be 300+amp with a hairpin stator for sure. Think the stock alt is 160 or 180amp hairpin does pretty good for now. Wood: Four sheets of 100% Baltic Birch 13ply. Not that cheap 40$ stuff most people buy that is plywood. The real deal stuff that uses no bogus fir filler and costs $75 per sheet and often times a special ordered wood... Think thats about it for the product, besides the 3 gallons of resin so far, bunch of body filler, fiberglass mat/cloth, fleece, greatstuff, black vinyl, spray adhesive, brushes, lots and lots of sandpaper, and all those other little supplies that add up very fast and often overlooked. Not sure where to start with the pictures... Ive recently switched phone carriers so I could get the Samsung Galaxy Note, and Im sure I lost a few pics here and there.. This car is being built tough, and done right with no skimping on this or that, or rushed to get it done. It is not a competition vehicle in anyway, just a daily driver. Air shocks in the rear are already needed and thats without the subs/amps installed (just box and battery weight). The box was built and dry fitted in my garage with clamps, than built inside the car. Alot of the box is 2,3,and 4 layers thick in spots. Every seem/joint is being overlapped for added strength. It is also completly sealed off from the trunk. No trunk rattles at all. The previous box I installed broke the trunk latch and tore the sheet metal and has been fixed 2 times now with 1/8inch thick steel. Ok now onto the pics... LOL
  15. Here is my current setup, I am new here so if I miss anything please let me know. The vehicle is a 03 Ford Explorer Sport(not sport trac) Head unit is a Kenwood KDC-X896 Front speakers are Focal 165 A1SG components Rear speakers are Focal 1656 CA1SG coaxials 4-Channel Amp is a JL Slash 300/4v2 I used a Stinger 4 AWG wiring kit (SK6241) and their mid level RCA's to connect the amp, making sure to put an inline fuse about 8 inches away from the battery. The system has run great for the past year and a half until yesterday. While driving on the highway with the volume set to 27(75%) the sound cut out randomly. It came back on about 3 seconds later and played for a minute and cut off again, this time taking around 10 seconds before turning back on. Eventually it got to where I would only get a flicker of audio and it would be off most of the time. I checked out the amp and saw the green power LED would come on an off every 3 seconds. When metered, I saw it start at 14v with the green LED on, then drop to 8v in a matter of seconds with the LED turning off under 10v. The voltage would then raise back up to 13.5v or so and repeat. When I checked the fuse under the hood I found this. The melted end had the wire coming in from the battery I also noticed there are circle marks on the sides of the fuse holder if that means anything What I can't figure out is what caused this and why the fuse didn't pop. If anyone here has any ideas fire away
  16. The Set Up (Keep in mind I'm 17, in school, have a part time job, and pay my car insurance and gas, so everything I have has been done with my money, and installed Personally) ::: - 2 American Bass XFL 10s D4 - Had and AQ2200 but Now Have a American Bass 200.1 - Rockdfosgate T1 Mids/Highs - Kenwood Deck - 2 Runs of Execution Audio 1/0 - Xs D1200 - 2 Yellow Top Optimas - 5ft^3 box tuned @36hz The Whip 1995 Toyota Avalon XL with Hella Miles and Plasti Dip 2 Runs of 1/0 from Alt to battery's in the back Battery's In The back as of now I'm getting another Optima In the lanes Port Score The Set Up Raising Them Decibels !!!! On My Aq2200 with 2 10s with broken triple joints play music not burps. I have 2 brand new 10s now and a American Bass 200.1 so will be doing 145+ on music not burps Everything as of right now! Going to a comp tomorrow and I am getting zv3s soon!!! http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WqcyTXXeVW0
  17. Anyone have thoughts on these? http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Stinger-HPM-Battery-Terminal-14p45.htm#details Or a bettery alternative if they suck?
  18. well ok kinda my car now since i drive it more then she does to save on gas but, got sick of her crappy system and with tax time in full swing i ordered up a bunch of goodies. Car: 98 chevy cavalier rs coupe Deck:pioneer deh-p7200hd Front: Rockford Fosgate Punch P1462 4x6 2way Rear: Rockford Fosgate Punch P1692 6x9 2way Subs: Alpine type r 10s (the old style) X2 (my old subs and box had build log some where on here for the box and what not) Amps: 1 Rockford R1200-1d, 1 Rockford R400-4d Wire: Tsunami 0 and 4 ga, and rca's, and some kicker 16ga for rear and front, subs still have some darvex 10ga. To tune it all in: a DD-1 and a CC-1 I have deck, subs and box and sub wire, so far just placed the order for everything else so should be getting here within the next week. i will post pics up of the gear and install as soon as i can.
  19. I have an aq2200 and one day I was slamming driving home from work and it just stopped playing, so I thought it went into protect so I thought whatever. So I get out and the power lights on and it's still having no output to the subs. So I checked my battery's and terminals and grounds everything was plugged in correctly but still no output. So I put it in a friends car and it worked fine? Idk what's wrong with my car wether its behind the hu or its a fuse... Can anyone give me any things to check the amp powers up and everything just no output to the subs in my car and Already checked the fuse on my power wire and everything.... Help would be appreciated ..
  20. What sups SMD, We have been busy working on a 2005 Hummer H2 Installing some Alpine and JL audio Equipment. I know W7 are not popular on this forum and too expensive for most people, but if you got the money and want the best it a nice option to dump in 2 13W7AE. Were Powering it up with 2 JL Audio 1000/1V2 amps. The customer had a lot of his own equipment from a previous car we did for him about 7 years ago. All the equipment is in good shape so we decided to use what he had. We also have 2 300/4V2 amps to by amp the mids and highs. we putting in Focal 165KRX2 in the front and rear as well as an Alpine SBS-05DC din size center channel and PXA-H701 with the RUX-C701 controller. Powering the system is the new Alpine 8 inch INE-Z928HD navigation custom installed. He Had some Vizualogic 7 inch head rest and a 13 inch Clairon flip down monitor. We also put on a KVH Trackvision A5 Direct TV and 2 big Stinger Electronics SPS1700 batteries. WE did the big 3 upgrade and added the 270XP Alternator by DC Power, another SMD Partners. We went with the red case to match the batteries and also have a 10 farad Rockford Fosgate Cap (RFC-10HB). Check it out were close to being done with it all. Vertical Doors put the Lamborghini Doors on it for us and ABB Performance is keeping us going with protein drinks and Diet Turbo Tea. We also installed a K40 Laser System about 3 years ago. Still working Strong So Lets get Loud. We will term lab it when were done. Please feel free to comment.
  21. I have a car with a stock 80amp alternator, I will be running an saz1500d. I have a xsd1200 battery in the trunk (stock battery under hood) and stinger 4/0 wiring kit. I recently acquired some soundquest 1/0 cca off a friend for cheap and I was wondering if it would be effective wire for the big 3 in my car?
  22. ALL PRICES ARE OBO!!! SERIOUSLY MAKE AN OFFER BECAUSE I WANT THIS STUFF SOLD!!! ALL PRICES ARE SHIPPED!!! *****DUE TO MANY PEOPLE WANTING ME TO HOLD THINGS FOR THEM AND SINCE THERE ARE MULTIPLE PEOPLE FOR THE SAME ITEM IM GONNA HAVE TO ASK FOR A SMALL NON-REFUNDABLE DEPOSIT JUST TO PROVE YOU ARE SERIOUS ON THE ITEM. THE DEPOSIT WILL BE COUNTED AS PAYMENT! I DON'T HAVE A PROBLEM HOLDING ANYTHING OR MAKING SOME TYPE OF PAYMENT PLAN!***** Thank you for understanding! Decided to make a list to make this a little more organized and easier to read Just going in order of the pics: AA Chaos 10" D1 800 rms 3'' coil: $225 shipped for the BNIB; $150 shipped for the one making mechanical noise ~ SOLD!!! Knu 300 amp Fuse: $5 ~ SOLD!!! German 3/8 Round over bit: $20 ~ SOLD!!! Tsunami 8 gauge, 2 5' strands: $5 for both Monster Cable 4 gauge: $1.00 a foot Length: 2' 6", 2' 4", 3' 3", 4' 11", 4' 11.5" wish like a slice of jacket missing but it doesn't expose wire and I wrapped it in electrical tape. 1/0 Welding cable Length: 10': $18.50 ~ SOLD!!! 11': $21.50 ~ SOLD!!! RF 1/0 17': $68 ~ SOLD!!! Memphis & Stinger 1/0: $1.50 a foot Length: Various, will measure upon request. Looks like 1-4 feet pieces MAS Power 2 Ch. RCA: $10 Monster Cable RCA: $40 ~ SOLD!!! Pionner AVH-P3200DVD w/ Harness: $250 ~ SOLD!!! Pics in 3rd post: Stinger 2 1/0 inputs to 4 8 gauge outputs dist blocks: $30 Kicker 6.5" SVC 1 ohm subwoofer 300 rms. BNIB $60 ~ SOLD!!! Old School RF power! Bd500.1! 500rms @ 2 ohm underrated: $200 ~ NLFS!!! Stinger 3 1/0 Input/Output Dist Block: $40 ~ SOLD!!!
  23. I have a stock battery + stock 90amp alt + 1 deka 9a31 + 1 xs d1200 + stinger 4gage. Will this be enough to keep my voltage above 12 while running a saz1500d to 2 sa12s?
  24. I have a xs d1200 and a Deka 9a31 black top, but everything under the hood is stock! Will these 2 battery's in my trunk provide enough power to keep my voltage above 12 when running a saz1500d?
  25. Well its been sorta kinda done for a lil bit just want to put it on hear there will be a lot of changes to come also will be doing sp4 soon same as 3k+ amp and batts ....let me start with pics now Old pic of under hood will be adding xs power AMP rack Box was completely built in the trunk Amp rack test fit Wires Finished'ish lol
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