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Found 154 results

  1. Well...I am trying to get back into the audio game. life went to shit for a bit but I have a new to me 2007 F250 CC/SB that I am trying to upgrade. Feel like I am going crazy looking at all this stuff again. 1. Going active. I have two zapco ST-4x SQs and an old school Orion XTR475. Should I go custom 3-way or just buy a component set? 2. Kenwood deck ( ) Mainly for easy of use for bluetooth/android control and FLAC ------ I also own an alpine 9887 which I was going to use but...I like the USB/FLAC of the kenwood... (hoarder status) 3. Don't know where to place the speakers...either tweet/3" mid on the a pillar and the 8" in the kick or just a 6.5 component set... Tweeters: SBacoutics metal dome tweets Mids: Fountek FE85 "3 mid (plan to run two) Faitalpro 3FE25 3" mid (plan on run two) Woofer: Beyma 8p300fe 8p300fe-1.htm OOOOORRRR.... budget $300 max for a decent but beefy component set. I know 5.25 component set fits in the doors but that location kinda sucks. @White Lightning @06RTCharger @ToNasty @Audio-Concepts @Triticum Agricolam
  2. The Alpine PDX amplifiers have been around for many years and models such as the monoblock PDX-M12 were introduced at the 2010 CES. Almost considered "old school" by some people's definition! Today we'll take a closer look at the PDX-M12 and try it out on the Amp Dyno. Can this amp, which is smaller in footprint than a sheet of notebook paper, put out the rated 1200 watts at 4 ohms? Gotta watch to find out... Watch on YouTube in 4K UHD quality or embedded below:
  3. Hi, I,vê had the chance to listen to both head units, and Although the 9887R holds more connections/ connectivity/ option, I have the impression the 9812RB has better sound all together. Does any one share the same opinion? I am also woundering if for the 9887R unit to sound has great has the 9812R it has to have the imprint active? thank movepage
  4. i was thinking that someone should make the a new DSP for everyone to use for car audio. alpine won't talk to me about it. and I'm looking for someone to step up. and build the best DSP in the world. hi my name is rob simon and I’m opening a business to sell car audio. and like to buy and use car audio too. all the DSP’s in the world are no way near as nice a what i want a DSP to do. and i am coming to you guy for some help with a new DSP. the PXA-H800 is getting old and its time to retire it for good. and make a hole new DSP with some of the old fetchers as the PXA-H800, but bigger EQ's and more EQ’s and more Adventist filters and the list goes on.i have looked at other DSP on the market and i think they can’t be put the fetchers somewhat together and new stuff on the DSP to make one kick ass unit with all the DSPs in the market are obsolete for years now and some have built new products that came out this year were obsolete before they were designed. I’m also in to Ground Zero Audio and Morel Audio. as well as Alpine and i like 3 way component sets with out a crossovers so the 3 speakers would have 3 channels of outputs on the DSPs in link mode for the amplifiers to hook too. its good with pro audio speakers with 6-way speaker set up hex-a-amp or hex-a-wire with 8 channels of 6 DSPs in link mode you will have 48 pre-out outputs more then a naff outputs. i will be using the E3iO windows 10 based double din computer in the dash. WIFI audio streaming and DSP controlling from IOS/Android/Window/Mac XOS USB Computer link for Windows and MAC optical Toslink inputs and output for audio playback and link mode DSP link mode to link up DSPs for more outputs low level 3 sets RCAs inputs 8v 8 outputs RCAs in 1 DSP fresques respuons 5hz to 25khz crossover: off/on / Low pass/ high pass/ band pass, selectable on each channel 5HZ to 25KHZ -6db/-12db/-24db/-32db/-46db/-64db parametric EQ 52 band 5HZ to 25KHZ on main and each channel graphic EQ 52 band 5HZ to 25KHZ on main and each channel DTS 5.1 Dolby Digital 5.1 Dolby Pro Logic 2 Imprint with mic audio zoning front rear side to side optional RUX-C800 type updated display Bi-Phantom function High Res audio (DQA format) subwoofer VOL and Xover off/on for sub’s surround sound/mono/stereo on/off for any channels and mapped out on Alpine’s apps as surround subs. main subs no surround sound for the DSP more fetchers like the h701 and h800
  5. Redoing my Corolla for the new year. I normally do a ported box around 5 cubes that can go in and out of the trunk when needed but this time I decided to build in the car and to the car. as you can see in the pictures Im doing a trunk build and Im going to seal off the trunk from the cabin. it will take time to finish since I have a busy work schedule right now but I have to be complete by the 18th of Feb so I can attend Freezefest in TN. Any comments or suggestions are welcome understanding I won't be making big changes. its either going to work or its not. 1 18 inch fi SP4 18 1 B2 audio SLD5k 2/0 wiring xs 3400 under the hood northstar 220 in the trunk mechman H/O alt big 3 done with 2/0 kenwood HU until I get my new alpine. Im getting the UTE 62bt when I have the chance to hit up Best Buy.. stay tuned!!
  6. My vehicle is a 1995 Chevrolet K1500 Suburban, with a 5.7L V8, that was made into a "Conversion Suburban" in March, 1995, by Choo-Choo Customs, in Chattanooga, TN. It was given a custom center console, complete with tube TV and VCR combo, a tape holder, and cup holders. It has nice, thick, soft carpeting. It also has 4 very comfortable bucket seats with dual arm rests, and a third row bench. After owning this thing for 2 years, i'm starting on the main audio/visual system build. I already put a Pioneer bluetooth headunit in to replace the stock Delco CD Changer from 1995, and a Soundstream DVD player to replace the broken VCR that was installed by the conversion company. I also already put in some lighting, LEDs for the map lights, courtesy lights and dome lights, with HID 4300K headlights. Here is the parts list and plans: Headunit: Pioneer single din DEH-X4800BT (future, not soon, double din touchscreen) Wiring: All Sky High Car Audio wiring. Battery and Alternator: Optima Red Top with stock Alt for now. Processor: none for now. I'll use the headunit, and the parametric EQ on the amps to tune for now. Front stage: Focal Polyglass 6.5 165V20 component system in Q-Logic Kick Panel Enclosures. Front stage amplifier: Alpine MRV-T407 Rear door speaker/rear roof speaker amp: Alpine MRV-F307 (Going to be able to switch between taking signal from main HU, or from TV/DVD, and have volume controllable by rear passengers) Subwoofer Amplifier(s): Alpine MRV-1507 (I have 2, but one needs repair. Once i get that done, i can run 2 sub amps to 2 subs. Starting with just one) Subwoofer Set up: Alpine SWR-1522D, Type-R 15" in a sealed box. (later: 2 Type-R 15" in a custom ported box, each on it's own MRV-1507.) Visual set up: Old tube TV and Soundstream VDVD-165T. (Later: flatscreen w/same DVD player, 12V outlet and USB outlet below TV.) Now i just have to figure out how to post some pics. Here is a video to start with:
  7. dual Sundown X8 v2 Tline for SQ build in future jeep.... thoughts. would be building/cutting on my cnc, 22 identical layers stacked. with a .75" base and .75" plexiglass top for internal viewing. 1200watts roughly to the pair via an Alpine PDX-M12 might swap subs with dayton audio ultimax 8s and just run a Alpine pdx-v9 for everything 44" wide 18" tall 21" deep tuned at 30hz with 90in^2 port area
  8. I haven't done one of these so bare with a bruh. This is a slow build as stated in the title because I get only so much time to do anything. I brought this vehicle to drive to work and relieve miles on my Altima plus do a lil car audio on a budget . So here is the truck.
  9. 2000 Chevy S10 V6 Running the stock 105 amp alternator and Duralast Gold battery with 1/0 big 3 Alpine CDA-9857 head unit Alpine Type R components in the doors
  10. SQ beasts. Just want opinions on the Audiopipe Q12 I thought this sub looks great & probably sounds awesome. These are the 12 in models 44lbs while JL is 56lbs. Has anyone heard these Q series in action?
  11. HELP i have been searching around for really good 6.5 components, this truck had memphis audio coaxial speakers in all 4 doors doors already and have been in the truck since 2010 so they are way outdate. I have been buying and trying different brands and models of coaxials 6.5 speakers in my vehicles and so far the alpine type R were the best sounding. I've never bought components and crossovers before, i have always just stuck with coaxial because they are quick and easy replacements. I put a crunch PX-1000.4 amp behind the seat to run my door, RMS at 4 ohm is 75w RMS at 2 ohm is 125w. They got way louder but the sound quality was terrible. What component/coaxial speakers should i go with and what amp should i use to push them? Has anyone heard or tried the Focal R-165s2 6.5 120w rms 2-way components? I also have a Skar Audio VVX-10v3 D4 600w rms 1200w dual 4ohm that i am getting ready to build a box for under the seat or the console. i haven't decided on an amp for it yet, depends on if i just do one 10 or do 2.
  12. I have a few concerns about the knockoff bluetooth adapters on eBay. Ones like these: It says in bold lettering on most of these listings that control of playback like play/pause or next track is not possible. This can mean only one thing: that the bluetooth adapter is using a cheap internal DAC to convert the Bluetooth signal into a aux input, essentially. Am I correct in assuming this? If so, I imagine the quality of them is pretty terrible. Anyone have any experience with these?
  13. bluegmcjimmy

    which deck?

    Ok i have 2 decks, 1st is an Alpine cde-7872 (old school) that i modded for AUX option, it has great features and its a single din, and my second is a pioneer 700bt double din, it has aux, bluetooth and usb functions, it does have good eq settings but i use my cross-over and my eq-6500 7band instead of the deck eq, which would you guys choose... just looking looking for others 2 cents
  14. Ive got a Samsung tab 4. I'd love to put it in my dash, and i know it will fit, it will take about 4mm of cutting on the dash, I can build some kind of bracket for it. Thats not necessarily the issue. I have an alpine 1din HU, and this tablet will just run the music, not put it to the speakers, it will connect via bluetooth to the HU. Is there any way I can fit the HU where the factory cassette player is? I know it will take a lot of opening a hole for it, but im not sure depth wise if it will fit. If you guys know of a better place to mount the HU, that would be great, or even a better place for the tablet, that would work too. Id prefer the tablet to be a part of the dash/console, just not on a stand or a suction cup mount. Any ideas will help, so dont be afraid to tell me what youre thinking on it. Thanks in advance for any help, its appreciated.
  15. Post your real or dream audio system below, I just wanna know what the community has. My real audio system--- 2 DC level 4 15's Custom box 3 4" aeroports 7 cubic ft tuned @30 2 Sundown sae1500D Alpine CDE-143BT 2 Alpine type r 6.5 componets 4 Crescendo PWX pro 6.5 2 Alpine Type r tweets 2 Alpine mrx-m110 Murdermat in all doors/back wall Skyhigh 0/1 awg runs Mechman 240A alt Skyhigh 18awg to door speakers JL rca's 2 XS d1600 My dream system--- 4 DC level 6 15's Walled box tuned @30 All Skyhigh/Certified Basshead wire 2 DC 10.0k 4 Crescendo neo 8" 6 Crescendo neo 6.5" 4 Crescendo ft1 DC amp/amps to power speakers 2 mechman 370A alts 4 XS lithium batteries Murdermat double layered everywhere custom dash If only I had the money/means for my dream system lol
  16. Since I am looking at making some changes to the system in the 350z I figured I would post what I have now. Stereo Alpine 9861 HU Audiovox 7" monitor in dash Crescendo cz 6.5-Inch Two-Way Components Rockford Fosgate Punch 300s (2002) Rockford Fosgate Punch 500.2 (2003) 4g power and ground. for get the Big 3, it will be the Big 7. (special grounding kit for Z's) Sundown SD-2 D2 10" shallow mount sub. Batteries Plus X2 AGM group 35 Battery under the hood. DD-1 Amps are setup 300s on the Doors. 500.2 Bridged for the sub. Right now I am a sealed box under the rear strut bar. Engine and Suspension mods ( nothing special yet) Airaid intake SPL FLBS Z33 PRO Front Shock Mount Lower Arm Bushings SPL PRO Front Inner Lower Arm Bushings JDM Y Pipe SPL Pro solid diff bushing VLSD Diff (not stock on the Base model) Here are the pics I have for now. Additional pics to follow soon. new bushings
  17. Finally got tired of the trunk game and picked up a 2010 Hatch Here are some pics of the cream puff. First thing I did was tint the windows.
  18. Hi Im building a subwoofer enclosure for 2 12' type r subs (2kRMS) and wanted to know what size enclosure i should use. I have depth of 17 height of 15 and width of 35 max. I was thinking around 5.5 cubes I want to tune the box to around 32 hertz and want very low bass. What diffrence does a larger enclosure make over a smaller one? Also how big should i have my port i will be using a slot port but wanted to know if a port which its height is less and width is more is better than a port with a larger hight and smaller width. I was thinking a 4' wide and around 9 heigh is thw width fine? All help appreciated
  19. Hello fellow bassheads! This is the build log for my car, the Kickin' Cruiser. The builds in this car started in 2010, and have changed several times since then. But in Dec. 2011 I decided to go big or go home, so I started planning this build for the final install. Actually got started about a month later, and have jumped around, way out of order. And I had to put it on hold for over 6 months for the birth of my newest son, T.J. (Trent Jr.) But I just keep pushing forward, with my goal of having a ground pounder PT still very much alive! So anyway, here we go. Much of this will be a repost, since I had a build log before, it just got messed up by facebook. I will attempt to keep it all in the correct order. The car is a 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser that I bought a few years ago, and fell in love with ever since. Best car I have ever owned! And a while back, I decided to split the build into stages, so that it wouldn't seem so over-whelming, and so it would be easier to navigate through. So here is the plan for the different stages: Stage 1 - Initial instal Stage 2 - Fiberglass and accessories (Learning Stage) V.2 Stage 3 - Dash, doors, and a 4th order wall. (Time to get serious stage!) Stage 4 - Rims. body, and paint Stage 5 - Engine/ drive-train (performance mods) For this stage, we will be focusing on the interior of the car. We will build new custom door panels, dash panel, change all of the interior color from light brown/ dark brown to grey/ black. I'll also be Installing new carpet front to back, as well as building a new headliner. We will finish it off with new seats. Basically the whole inside of the car is getting a make-over!!! Oh and how could I forget? I'll be building a 4th order wall for 4 custom Solo X 15's (which I will build myself), to run off 2 DC5.0K's. Goals are mid 50's on music, and nasty hair tricks on demand. So here we go!!!!
  20. ok so i have alot of pics and i cant post them all here as it would just take too long. so here are some of the main pics basiclly its a 15" dayton ultimax in a 4.7ft^3 tuned at 25hz, dual 4.25" octoports each 25" long, each port hand cut and made from 3/4" mdf only running about 200rms right now and it sounds amazing. before starting the build i put down 200ft^2 of 110mill GTmat sound deadner, took out all my seats and carpet and plastics. also used 14 cans of big gap filler for all the empty space in the panels full system specs: sony BT headunit alpine pdx-f6 4x150rms alpine pdx-m12 1x1200rms full KnuKonceptz wiring, blocks and other stuff 4x dayton 7" esoteric speakers, each with a 3" titanium voice coil 2x dayton AMT-8 tweeters in factory tweeter locations crossed at 4500hz with the front door speakers 1x dayton ultimax um1522 subwoofer box uses 2 sheets of 3/4" mdf and a 14.5"x30" acrylic sheet for the window with 34-2" long hex bolts box still needs to be cleaned out from saw dust on the inside but you get the look and idea of it this is the alpine pdx-f6 4ch amp, the 1200w is the same size 7" dayton esoteric dayton AMT tweeter
  21. Decided to make a seperate thread for this build as it does not really have anything to do with my current big build here: here are the posts from that thread: 6th Order Bandpass Enclosure for Alpine Type R 12 So, for my first side project! I recently aquired an Alpine Type R 12 very cheap. Came in an OBCON vented box. Decided to have some fun with it. I've always wanted to try a 6th order, and this is the perfect time since I'm waiting for the good stuff. At first I was planning on building an ABC box but decided to give a 6th order a chance (can always convert it to an abc later.) My goal is to get good response from 20hz to 60hz+. According to winisd, this box design should meet those requirements. Here is the response graph compared to a standard 40hz ported box: This is the fun part. The cone excursion graph is the fun part. 1000watts and keeping control down to 22hz! Quick sketchup. Model not finished, but it gives you an idea of the layout. Wood is cut and ready, I'll be working on assembling it tonight. 2 4" precision ports per side, externally mounted. Rear chamber ports will be around 33" long and front chamber will be around 15"
  22. Evilthx

    Alpine MRV-F545 Control Cover

    If anyone out there has the silver control cover for the Alpine MRV-F545 I would be interested in buying it. I have paypal and would pay right away.
  23. I drive a 2006 Toyota Corolla ce and currently have alpine type r 6x9s and 6 1/2s as my door speakers connected to the head unit. I am wanting to upgrade but I was wanting to know if focal was worth the price or if there was another brand that could produce the same quality for cheaper or if there is an even better speaker to run my mids and highs. I really love my type r's even though I know they aren't getting proper power but wanted some advice and personal opinions on other brands etc Also I would like to know what a good four channel amp would be to get to power my door speakers Thank you
  24. Alright, currently have 2 12" Type R's on 2400rms. Looking for spl only, they are in a old good size prefab [email protected] about 36hz, what does everone think, would just a "single" 18 on the same power outperform in volume? Dont be biased just because the other brands are better im only thinking of tring to hit a higher wow factor in how loud it can get, i will be building a custom box but honestly just like the looks of the 18. Thoughts? (will be built where back seats are in mustang but dont want to wall right yet, that is already happening in another project) options are SA-18D4 (600rms according to specs) or DC Audio Level 3 18 m2 D1 (900rms according to specs) really like these two but will take other sugestions on good 18s in the same price range.(300-350) Also, does anyone think these could handle the full 2400rms? i know sa is able to do above but never had experiences with either of these or how much over their rated they can take.
  25. nmartinez18

    Need Help Tuning Sub

    I have a 12" Type R wired to 2 ohms with about 400-450 watts RMS Alpine amp running to it. When tuning the gain and bass boost, I have trouble finding distortion even with gain fully dialed. I was wondering if you have any tips to setting the gain, and listening for distortion.