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Found 71 results

  1. Hey y’all, Looking for some advice on these 3 woofers. Which do you think will sound the best and worth what they are priced. I need a 10inch sub that is taking at least 1000watts rms. These are the 3 options I have come up with: Dc level 3, sundown x10, and an alpine x series 10. Also I heard the new Memphis mojo 10s are pretty good. Which do you guys think sound the best and are worth my money haha.
  2. I have this Alpine MRD-M1000 Amp. And i have never messed with an amp like this I have looked up the manual online and it doesn't really explain what these mean I was hoping that I could get some info on these settings and what they do: 1-1 Input :1ch or 2ch (I have it set to 2 ch) 1-2 Input Level : 0.5 - 8.5V (0db - -24db (i head unit is 4V what show this be set at?) 1-3 Gain Factor : Adjustment range: 0dB/+6dB/+9dB (is this bass boast??) 2-1 LP On\Off :On (i undersand) 2-2 Frequency : Adjustment range: 30 – 200Hz (1/12 oct. step) (what is a good starting point to set this? I have two 10 inch subs) 3-1 Subsonic On/Off :On 3-2 Frequency : Adjustment Range: 15Hz – 50Hz (5Hz step) (where to set this?) 4-1 Parametric EQ On\Off (what is this and what does it do?) 4-2 Frequency : • Adjustment Range: fc = 30 – 160Hz (1/12 oct. step) (where to set it) 4-3 Width Q. : • Adjustment Range: Q = 0.5/1/2/3/4/5 (this does what?) 4-4 Level : Adjustment Range: ±12 dB (1 dB step) (i don't know what this does either) 5-1 Bass Compensation On\Off (this does what?) 5-2 Mode : • Adjustment Range: COMP.1/COMP.2/COMP.3 (?????) 6-1 Time Compensation On\Off 6-2 Delay Time :N\A 7-1 Phase :0\180 8-1 Amp Set ID No. :1 8-2 Time Of Delay :1.0 9-1 Output Disable :Off 0-1 Memory Write :Hopefully Correct Settings!! 0-2 Memory Read :Hopefully Correct Settings!! Any help would be great, thanks Here is the link to the manuals: https://all-guides.com/model/alpine/mrd-m1000.html
  3. So this last Friday I was robbed of my subwoofers. Nothing special, just two Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 subs running off a Rockford Fosgate Punch 1000.1 amplifier (I still have everything but the subs). I'm looking to get a new pair of subs for my 2009 Acura TL and was open to suggestions. I'm not looking to get to crazy in my budget but I'm looking to stay in the 1000w @1ohm (total) range. I honestly like the way the Apline Type R sound and I have one in my work car ported at around 34hz that slams pretty good but I'm ot set on buying a pair just yet. But anything in the same price range is fine by me. I'm also running this all off a stock system tuned through a Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3 DSP (that I'm beginning to hate for tuning reasons) and am also looking to get it tuned nicely for whatever I get if anyone can help with that. My door speakers arent the best out there but I have Polk Audio DB series all around for mids and highs also running off a 4ch Rockford Fosgate amplifier. Anyways any help all around is welcome. Thanks in advance.
  4. Alright ive been thinking about this and i want to build a box with two alpine type r 15s and i want them to be on top of the box and the port go across the bottom I have dimensions of w40, h22, d20 which comes out to 8 cubes i need to know how i should make the port depth and width cause im getting so confused on these port and box calculator websites i want it tuned from 28-33 htz i just need help with that and i want to make sure the box will fit in the back of my 97 ford explorer xlt 4 door
  5. I just ordered two 12" Alpine Type R SWR-12D4 and a Hifonics Brutus Elite 2000.1. I need to build a box to fit in a 2000 Ford Taurus. I am fairly new to the car audio scene so I don't know how many hz to tune the box to or how hard it is. Just looking for a cut list and any suggestions on how I should build this.
  6. ok so I have a single 12" sundown x 12 d4 soon to be getting another in the mean time im looking to upgrade form an alpine mrx-m100 (1000 @ ohms [email protected] 1) its a weird amp wanting 2500-3000 rms at 1 ohm or a 2 chl that does 1250-1500 @ 2 ohm ect open to all offers on amps but I do not have 700 bucks to buy one lol you can pm me or reply on this thread ill get back asap thank you for any and all inquiries in advanced. p.s. new to buying on this forum so I will be noobin it up when it comes to buying someone with experience on how its done would be very much appreciated also
  7. i have a 2004 Escalade, shes saphire blue and came with 2 parallel goldish colored pinstripes ...9 years has taken its toll on those lame little stripes and im not sure how to tackle it exactly....before i come up with my own idea i figured theres bound to be someone here thats done this before or at least has some kind of direction to point me in right? thanks
  8. So, I have these 2 Alpine SWS-15D2 woofers that I have in a living room in separate 3.0 cu ft boxes (a bit too large) and I'm looking for a better way too power them. Each has a 500W RMS rating and right now I am using a 1000W computer power supply unit connected to an Audiobahn AMA24002 (600W RMS x 2 channels). Are there any receivers out there that can provide the wattage necessary to power the speakers without having to wire together a bunch of components in a tacky, ghetto fashion? Thanks
  9. ok so on my quest to find a better amp than the one I have now ( alpine mrx-m100 600 @4, 1000 @2, 600 @1 that's straight out the manual) ive came acros an older alpine mrv1507 the alpine mrv 1507 is near 18 or so inches long and it is a 2 chl amp heres the spec form user manual 12v 20-20khz per chl 4 ohm - 150w 0.08% thd per chl 2 ohm - 300w 0.3% thd bridged 4ohm - 600w 0.3% thd 14.4v 20-20khz per chl 4 ohm - 225w 0.08% thd per chl 2 ohm - 450w 0.3% thd bridged 4 ohm - 900w 0.3% thd ive done some of my own research and everywhere I found says the amp is under rated but how far? and does anything it will handle 2 ohm bridged daily? ( I never drive far or bump to long so about maybe 10 or 15 min runs ) ohh asking price for it is 200 bucks
  10. Whats going on my friends? I have tried searching through the thread on my question and have found one link that is almost a year old and not sure if anyone besides me has happened to come across it. I posted on there but since the thread has been dead for so long, I am sure that it wont be seen for sometime. My question, I am looking for a good design that will give me nasty loud lows and give good spl. As the title says, those are the subs I am running. I know these subs can achieve decent levels as i had a set back in 96 @ 500Rms each on a gothic 1600 bridged and nailed 142.2. All in a full size custom van. I am working with a set of 12D2 @ 2ohm on a mrx m240 and you can take a look at my pictures and see how it looks... i have my old m1000 in the pics and have redone the wiring so a new pic will be posted soon showing what it looks like now. ( Before you say anything.... I will be getting rid of the Cap as it is useless for my current setup) I would like to keep the subs facing up, and have thought of inverting them as well if it wont totally kill SPL... but I would also like to vent on the drivers side... Either up or to the front... again.... which ever would be better to achieve decent numbers at the meter. I am going to be mounting two kinetic 2400's with it so my measurements will change from what i thought i was going to be able to use... as for now these are the dimensions i have to work with. i have 62.5" side to side. 18" tall and 20" front to back... i am looking for something that will get low and nasty... I am not sure the dimensions of the 2400 so if anyone knows.... please throw in a bone so i can get a better clue of what siz my box is going to be. i could get the smaller 600 or 800 and maybe mount them in the side panels under my xcab windows but still i dont have dimensions and with the power i will need on my m240 i think either of those would be a waste... or should i just mount 2 1200's under my hood and bump up to a 300 amp alternator and call it good? I have done some smaller builds and never had to worry about the things that i am doing now so bare with me on it... I am not completely noob when it comes to wiring.. as i never let anyone else ever install my equipment... just looking for assistance on a box design and maybe placement of secondary batteries and maybe the best way to fuse them to prevent damage to my subs and amps. Thanks everyone!!!
  11. This is my little progression build log of my 2012 Chevy Sonic LT got it 0 miles and I voided all electrical warrentys So when I got the car the first week first thing I did was Tint the windows and installed a sub it was a 12" Kicker COMP with a BOSS 1200watt I worked in a pawn shop I so i got both the amp and sub in box for like $60 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------ Quickly felt the need for more... So I got 2 12" Alpine Type R in a Super Bass Probox I got for free from my job also (SCORE) lol Also bought a 1000 Watt JL Audio Amp ($80) and some cheap kicker door speakers front and rear with a eclipse 400 Watt 4Channel amp that was going bad ---------------------------------------------__ Then Well i hit a rough patch and sold the subs and box for $250 And put my kicker back in for abit then taxes came around and I bought this This is what went into the car now Metra Double Din Dash Kit Alpine IVE-W530 Double Din Alpine Controller Alpine Moving Video Bypass Pac-tr7 Memphis 15-MC62 Front Speakers Memphis 15-MC62 Rear Speakers Memphis 15-MC1AM Front Tweeters Memphis MRA 4.480 (To power those doors) Memphis MOJO 512D2 12" Memphis MR 1.1200 Memphis 16-X03 3-Way Crossover And a video I had a problem with that my amp would just for into protect mode and light were dimming So I bought an Optima Yellow top Problem fixed BUT I had no room to put my original cover back on... So I made a shelf and came up with the idea I can kinda show my amps now I have not had time to do some wire managing because simply I SUCK at it http://youtu.be/AXAOByZuRqAhttp://youtu.be/E2-70Bz2kjs http://youtu.be/zPpksB2N8Ec Car BEFORE AND AFTER BEFORE AFTER Thanks for looking through I appreciate all and any feedback I know there is ways to better my system but $$$$ is an issue haha or Id upgrade the alternator as the first to do kinda thing
  12. SQ beasts. Just want opinions on the Audiopipe Q12 I thought this sub looks great & probably sounds awesome. These are the 12 in models 44lbs while JL is 56lbs. Has anyone heard these Q series in action?
  13. HELP i have been searching around for really good 6.5 components, this truck had memphis audio coaxial speakers in all 4 doors doors already and have been in the truck since 2010 so they are way outdate. I have been buying and trying different brands and models of coaxials 6.5 speakers in my vehicles and so far the alpine type R were the best sounding. I've never bought components and crossovers before, i have always just stuck with coaxial because they are quick and easy replacements. I put a crunch PX-1000.4 amp behind the seat to run my door, RMS at 4 ohm is 75w RMS at 2 ohm is 125w. They got way louder but the sound quality was terrible. What component/coaxial speakers should i go with and what amp should i use to push them? Has anyone heard or tried the Focal R-165s2 6.5 120w rms 2-way components? I also have a Skar Audio VVX-10v3 D4 600w rms 1200w dual 4ohm that i am getting ready to build a box for under the seat or the console. i haven't decided on an amp for it yet, depends on if i just do one 10 or do 2.
  14. im building an SQL set up with a single 12 for my daily. im stuck between 2 subs. dayton Ultimax http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512 OR Alpine type S or R 12" R: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-12d4/ S: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/sws-12d2/ i will only be running 500rms for the sub as i plan to get the alpine PDX-V9 amp http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-v9/ ill be running Alpine SPR-60C in all 4 doors http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-60c/ ive owned and heard the new type r's before and they are great in a good box but when entering some info into winisd pro it shows the dayton will have a much smoother gain and much better low end compared to the alpine. but reqires a 3.5ft^3 box to do so... Dayton is orange 3.5ft^3 dual 3" aeros 15.5" long each tuned at 24.9Hz Alpine Type R is Yellow 2.0ft^3 dual 3" aeros 16.5" long each tuned at 32Hz
  15. Well...I am trying to get back into the audio game. life went to shit for a bit but I have a new to me 2007 F250 CC/SB that I am trying to upgrade. Feel like I am going crazy looking at all this stuff again. 1. Going active. I have two zapco ST-4x SQs and an old school Orion XTR475. Should I go custom 3-way or just buy a component set? 2. Kenwood deck ( https://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/receiver/kdc-bt772hd/ ) Mainly for easy of use for bluetooth/android control and FLAC ------ I also own an alpine 9887 which I was going to use but...I like the USB/FLAC of the kenwood... (hoarder status) 3. Don't know where to place the speakers...either tweet/3" mid on the a pillar and the 8" in the kick or just a 6.5 component set... Tweeters: SBacoutics metal dome tweets https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/hard-dome-tweeter/sb-acoustics-sb26adc-c000-4-aluminum-dome-tweeter/ Mids: Fountek FE85 "3 mid (plan to run two) https://www.parts-express.com/fountek-fe85-3-full-range-speaker-driver--296-717 Faitalpro 3FE25 3" mid (plan on run two) https://www.parts-express.com/faitalpro-3fe25-3-professional-full-range-woofer-8-ohm--294-1104 Woofer: Beyma 8p300fe http://www.usspeaker.com/beyma 8p300fe-1.htm OOOOORRRR.... budget $300 max for a decent but beefy component set. I know 5.25 component set fits in the doors but that location kinda sucks. @White Lightning @06RTCharger @ToNasty @Audio-Concepts @Triticum Agricolam
  16. Hello all! This will be my first post on this forum. With that, I have a circa 2007 Alpine CDA-9851 that I run as the HU in one of my play trucks. Lately, I have noticed it will get stuck on "Pause" on the CD side, usually does this with multiple file MP3 discs. I can switch to Radio and it will play, but cannot get the unit to un-pause on CD. I can unhook the constant V+ and wipe the memory on the unit and it will start working again for a period. The acting up is erratic. The player is dated and i could easily replace, but what's the fun in that! Thanks in advance.
  17. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBBZy0WWCqQ&feature=youtu.be 1 18 inch re gettin down in my minitruck s10 blazer, last vid before I recone both to fo and wall it, its currently running off of 1k alpine amp, it.gets pretty low, 8 cube box at 32 Hz, thanks for watching let me know what yall think ,everything is a work in the process,so excuse the mess;)
  18. Updated System Amp-Rockford T-1000.1 BDCP pushing 1568 Watts at 1 or 2 ohms. Subs- (2) Alpine type R 12's (dual 2) Radio-Pioneer DEH-3500UI Door speakers-Rockford Punch series 6.5"(2) and 4X6" (2) Wires-Tsunami 4AWG( soon to be Cadence 0AWG) Electrical-150 AMP alternator with upgraded battery Please comment anything that could be better or any helpful tips. or any pointers. Thanks!(:
  19. Hi, I,vê had the chance to listen to both head units, and Although the 9887R holds more connections/ connectivity/ option, I have the impression the 9812RB has better sound all together. Does any one share the same opinion? I am also woundering if for the 9887R unit to sound has great has the 9812R it has to have the imprint active? thank movepage
  20. Hello, my current system is: sub - Alpine type r, box - L port 60L net volume, set to 34hz, amp - STEG k2.01. I'm looking for something louder. I like deep low bass and Alpine does very good. Is Lanzar a good choice to replace my Alpine? What is the best ported box for the driver? Sorry for my bad English
  21. ok, to start i want to reiterate that is for an SQL build, i have a car for SPL already. i have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a stock set up besides the HU so its time to upgrade now that its getting nice outside. the "PLANNED" set up as i have no bought anything yet.... FRONT set up: (per door) 6" dayton RS150-4 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs150-4-6-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-372 Air Motion Tweeter http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-amt-mini-8-air-motion-transformer-tweeter-8-ohm--275-095 3500hz 2way passive cross http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-xo2w-35k-2-way-speaker-crossover-3500-hz--260-146 Sub stage: SINGLE 12" sub http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512 AMPS.... either 1xAlpine PDX-F4 100rmsx4 http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-f4/ 1xAlpine PDX-M6 600rmsx1 http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-f6 OR a single 5 channel amp 1x Alpine PDX-V9 500rmsx1, 100rmsx4 http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-v9 im concerned that with a 5 channel amp the SQL and power will suffer when bass hits. but that 5ch from alpine is perfect specs the box im looking for is a box that is probably a T-Line with a flatter response. i have 44" wide and upto 30" deep, would like to keep the box 14" tall or under. port and sub both facing back Im VERY open to changes or modifications. i have a stock alt (95A) and batt, but i will be swapping the hood batt for the largest xs power that will fit to make sure i have 0 voltage drop
  22. just like title says alpine or crescendo for comp sets... ill be running 100rms to each door. Alpine: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-60c/ Crescendo: http://store.crescendoaudio.com/mezzo-series-6-5-reference-2-way/ im using an alpine pdx-v9 amp does anyone have exp with either? ill be running a single 12 at 500rms so i dont need crazy loud, i just want the best sounding speakers for the money. max of $300 per set. open to suggestions
  23. So I blew my Alpine SWR 12D2 subwoofer 5th Gen. I took it apart only to find that the former of the voice granaded so the voice coil came unwound in the motor so I have no choice but to take the basket apart and the magnets out to collect the unwound coil wire. It appears that Alpine made these subs to be unserviceable ( at least unfriendly) due to all of the glue around the top plate above the magnets. I can see a ton of glue underneath as well. My question is can I burn all of the glue with a torch to get it to release? I tried using a chisel to knock it clockwise but it wont budge and it's cutting a groove into the plate. It appears that the security plate will then just come right out. I'm not going to just toss it. Thanks! PS. If this has already been covered please don't burn me, just point me in the right direction...
  24. Hi im building a box for 2 alpine type r 15s dual 2 ohm and a rockford fosgate t1500 and i want the box to have a bigger port then the type rs are recommended and for it to sound good i need help with how big i should make the box
  25. I have two 12" Alpine Type R subs (the new ones rated at 1000 watts rms) and want to upgrade my amp. Right now I have a Bass Inferno BI3000DX. The subs are dual 4 ohm. I have them in a sealed box right now but will be upgrading that as well. I'm running on stock alt and battery for now and running 4 gauge wire to the box. Any suggestions on amps?
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