FreeZzy Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hello, i buy a DC level4XL 15" and i have a Hifonics BXI1610D And i'm here because i need help to install my audio system, i don't know what battery i need and how to connect all this thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 first off your gonna need more amp than that for the xl.. just saying. 91 dodge colt gt.. 4 custom t600 15s audioque 3500d.1 tuned to 25 hz... stay tuned. blazer stroker 15 brutus bxi2006d terrible voltage drop 145.4@38HZ... SEALED LEGAL Aim: chewieft09 www.t3audio.com carpe diez nuts !! my house is louder than your car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 first off your gonna need more amp than that for the xl.. just saying. I agree, OP, I can guarantee you that no one is going to type out how to connect EVERYTHING (subs, amps, headunit, alt, batteries, mids and highs, etc). The best way to learn is to read the forum. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreeZzy Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 first off your gonna need more amp than that for the xl.. just saying. I agree, OP, I can guarantee you that no one is going to type out how to connect EVERYTHING (subs, amps, headunit, alt, batteries, mids and highs, etc). The best way to learn is to read the forum. ok but I am from France and my English is not very good, I don't understand everything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cqtama Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 first off your gonna need more amp than that for the xl.. just saying. alhtough that is true your not helping his situation at all. to make that sub happy your going to need to give it at least the 1500 watts its rated at. i don't know much about that amp but im fairly sure it wont do that cleanly. as far as your question goes look into xs power, shuriken, kinetic and deka. all are good sealed car audio batteries and make something to help you out. do some research on their websites its better to learn what to buy than have me just tell you as far as wiring goes run a + from your front bat. to the back bat. and fuse it at both ends. (one fuse about a foot from the front battery and another about a foot from the one in the back) then + from the back battery to the amp, fused of corse. as far as grounds go you can either run a ground from the front to back just like the +, or you can ground to the frame. now that we've gotten that out of the way know this.. the xl's are known to take more than rated power, but beware: clipped signals, and too much power can and will kill any speaker so don't give it any more than rated unless you KNOW what you are doing. even a clipped signal at less than rms power can break things so dont crank your gains. you should set them with an o-scope or dmm if possible. R.I.P '01 blazer you treated my ears well until your transmission blew up. New Project [top secret] 149.0 db on music driver window open; so close I feel some boners are fueled by viagra and not true intimacy!......if you know what i mean.... I swear... sometimes I wish I was retarded so I could just agree with everyone x. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 ok lets start with power wire.. your gonna wanna do the big three upgrade.. thats power output on alt. to positive on front battery.. thats gonna need a fuse.. then your gonna go from the mounting point of the alt to the negative on the front battery.. (all grounds do not need a fuse. ) then your gonna go from the battery negative to the frame on the car(if you have a fullsize truck or suv go directly to the frame and not the body..) (if you have a unibody car i highly suggest a full run of negative back to the amplifier) second you have your run of positive to the amp in the back.. your gonna put a fuse anywhere up to 12 inches away from the battery up front.. hide the wire.. repeat with ground if its a unibody car. then your gonna take your remote turnon wire thats wired into the blue wire on the back of your head unit and run that all the way back with the power wires..(same side) then take your rcas and run them from the output labled subwoofer on the back of the head unit to the amp.. (run this on the opposite side of the power wire) then depending on the coil config of the woofer. wire it either parralell (positive to positive neg to negative and then out to the amp.. ) or series(positive to negative on the sub and then use the remaining terminals to go to the amp) make sure the ohm load is correct.. can not exceed lower than 1 once you get that all hooked up. take the remote turnon wire.. and put it in the remote lead.. its usually a single small terminal.. put positive in positive and negative in negative.. (get a proper fitting allen wrench and dont be afraid to crank down on it. after that. we go to head unit settings. crossover the sub at 80 hz. and turn the level up. crossover your door speakers at 160 hz. do not use bassboost then go over to the amp.. put the lpf to around 80 hz.. put the subsonic a few hz lower than your port tuning. leave bass boost ALONE put it at zero. then what your gonna do is play the test tone at about 3/4 volume on the head unit.. take the gain or level and SLOWLY turn it up until it doesnt sound clean anymore it will get fuzzy and distorted. it will be faint but it will happen.. once that happens. turn it back down 1/8th turn and re listen. if its still distorted or fuzzy. turn it down until it goes away.(i would normally say set with a oscope or dmm. but im sure he doesnt have either.. ) also as far as batts get one shuriken bt80 and replace your stocker with it.. it will be fine. sell the current amp you hve and get a 2000 brutus minimum.. it will do around 1800 watts. 91 dodge colt gt.. 4 custom t600 15s audioque 3500d.1 tuned to 25 hz... stay tuned. blazer stroker 15 brutus bxi2006d terrible voltage drop 145.4@38HZ... SEALED LEGAL Aim: chewieft09 www.t3audio.com carpe diez nuts !! my house is louder than your car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreeZzy Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 I'll tell you how I see it i need to put a positiv 0 gauge wire (with 140A fuse) from the first battery to the second battery (kinetik 1800) and to the alternator and from the second battery i put a positiv 4 gauge wire to the Amp, and for negativ wire i put 0 gauge from first battery to the alternator and to the chassis and from second battery i put 0 gauge to the chassis and 4 gauge to amplifier everything is good ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreeZzy Posted February 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 ...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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