Chaise Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Well it's official, the lights in my car now dim to the beat of my subwoofers (if they're up enough, of course). I know about the battery guides advising which battery is best for the amount of power you're running, but my question is a bit different. Would my dim problem be solved with just an upgraded battery under the hood or would it be smart to get one under the hood, and a secondary one in the back? I'd rather not put an extra one in the back right now, but I will if it comes down to it. Quote I like the oldschool one.. Current System: Stock 2011 Tahoe Loud as F**K Just kidding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That1Kid Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Big 3. Quote -98' Ford Expedition (Rest in Peace) -AVH-P3300BT -Crescendo BC5500 -4 18" DC m2 Level 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dugee81 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Big 3. that should help Quote 200a alt. by Excessive Amperage hc800 under hood & 2 Deka 9a31 in rear 1/0awg + big 3 SAZ 3000D HDC3 18" @ 2 ohm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowledge Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 yes sir. Quote REFF'SMy linkEBAYhttp://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=trueI love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pumpfinder Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Do a big 3 first. Depending on how much current you are drawing, the Big 3 will help but will not diminish the problem. Personally I would do the big 3, if the drop is still a good bit, upgrade the battery under hood and a HO alternator. Doing just the battery will help but maybe not as much as you wish. The only way to get "rid" of voltage drop is a solid electrical system. If your like me and don't have much money because of university or whatever, developing a solid charging system is hard. It takes time and money. For now all I got done is Big 3 but Im still getting mad voltage drop. Therefore, I had to turn down gains until I can afford the HO alternator and battery(ies). I would rather turn down gains and listen to my system a bit lower then risk dropping below 12.5v possibly zomping out my amps. If you want to leave the gains up a bit you can rev up to say around 1500 - 1800 RPMS and that will help keep a steady voltage. That is what I had to do until I just said fuck it and turned down my gains haha. Sorry about the novel. Quote 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart Alpine CDA-117 2 12" Fi Audio SSD D1 Rockford Fosgate T1000-1BD (1340RMS @ 1 ohm) Vibe Audio LiteBox Stereo 4 Energy ENC650CV2 Component/Convertible Speakers Knu Koncept 0 Gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaTbOy911 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 yea big 3 and a cap can also help Quote Had an estimate of 6400 for an alpine/clarion setup dealer said it "should" hit around 160db with the custom boxes he was going to make for me..doubtful with so much area to move but, budget is way below that any ideas on cheaper brands for that kind of Spl setup? really didnt want to try any Boss or soundstorm, thinking Quantum figure around $150 per speaker "$1800 total" and $1700 to power it, first actual big setup for the van. New MEMPHIS CAR AUDIO build 4 15s Memphis C3 2 xs power D3100 1 xs power d3400 custom fiberglass door pannel and lots more My Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaTbOy911 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 or i can recome the biggest battery that can fir in ur hood from xs power batteries they have the best batteries and ill hurry to ge them not shure if the price went up already Quote Had an estimate of 6400 for an alpine/clarion setup dealer said it "should" hit around 160db with the custom boxes he was going to make for me..doubtful with so much area to move but, budget is way below that any ideas on cheaper brands for that kind of Spl setup? really didnt want to try any Boss or soundstorm, thinking Quantum figure around $150 per speaker "$1800 total" and $1700 to power it, first actual big setup for the van. New MEMPHIS CAR AUDIO build 4 15s Memphis C3 2 xs power D3100 1 xs power d3400 custom fiberglass door pannel and lots more My Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaise Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Big 3, got it. Do a big 3 first. Depending on how much current you are drawing, the Big 3 will help but will not diminish the problem. Personally I would do the big 3, if the drop is still a good bit, upgrade the battery under hood and a HO alternator. Doing just the battery will help but maybe not as much as you wish. The only way to get "rid" of voltage drop is a solid electrical system. If your like me and don't have much money because of university or whatever, developing a solid charging system is hard. It takes time and money. For now all I got done is Big 3 but Im still getting mad voltage drop. Therefore, I had to turn down gains until I can afford the HO alternator and battery(ies). I would rather turn down gains and listen to my system a bit lower then risk dropping below 12.5v possibly zomping out my amps. If you want to leave the gains up a bit you can rev up to say around 1500 - 1800 RPMS and that will help keep a steady voltage. That is what I had to do until I just said fuck it and turned down my gains haha. Sorry about the novel. I don't know what my voltage measurement is however I do have a stinger voltage meter coming in the mail so I'll definitely have a better look at what is going on with my electrical system. I'll definitely look into the big 3 a bit more and start ordering the parts I need. I have also been looking into alternators, but like you, I'm not made of money so I don't really want to dish out $600 on top of everything else I'm buying. As for revving the engine up, the dimming is still fairly noticeable so a HO alt would probably be best. Quote I like the oldschool one.. Current System: Stock 2011 Tahoe Loud as F**K Just kidding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pumpfinder Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Big 3, got it. Do a big 3 first. Depending on how much current you are drawing, the Big 3 will help but will not diminish the problem. Personally I would do the big 3, if the drop is still a good bit, upgrade the battery under hood and a HO alternator. Doing just the battery will help but maybe not as much as you wish. The only way to get "rid" of voltage drop is a solid electrical system. If your like me and don't have much money because of university or whatever, developing a solid charging system is hard. It takes time and money. For now all I got done is Big 3 but Im still getting mad voltage drop. Therefore, I had to turn down gains until I can afford the HO alternator and battery(ies). I would rather turn down gains and listen to my system a bit lower then risk dropping below 12.5v possibly zomping out my amps. If you want to leave the gains up a bit you can rev up to say around 1500 - 1800 RPMS and that will help keep a steady voltage. That is what I had to do until I just said fuck it and turned down my gains haha. Sorry about the novel. I don't know what my voltage measurement is however I do have a stinger voltage meter coming in the mail so I'll definitely have a better look at what is going on with my electrical system. I'll definitely look into the big 3 a bit more and start ordering the parts I need. I have also been looking into alternators, but like you, I'm not made of money so I don't really want to dish out $600 on top of everything else I'm buying. As for revving the engine up, the dimming is still fairly noticeable so a HO alt would probably be best. If you have a multimeter or a separate voltmeter, you can check your voltage drop now. If you don't, you will need one to setup the Stinger voltmeter. For you where your running a digital amp that makes 1200w, you should be good with the Big 3 for now. Just to get you by. But, like I said, a good charging system is a must if your running any sort of aftermarket accessories. Quote 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart Alpine CDA-117 2 12" Fi Audio SSD D1 Rockford Fosgate T1000-1BD (1340RMS @ 1 ohm) Vibe Audio LiteBox Stereo 4 Energy ENC650CV2 Component/Convertible Speakers Knu Koncept 0 Gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carroot1 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 turn the bass down while driving with headlights on..... until you get a battery up front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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