Rebel4055 Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Posted March 9, 2011 I only browsed thru the thread here but from the beginning it sounds like your sprocket bolt is loose or out of center. the bolt that goes thru the sprocket into the crank arm, above the bearing on the sprocket side, if you loosen it up, spin the cranks a few times, and tighten it back up it should place things in the middle, if not something is bent for sure. good luck! do we have a bike section??? if not we should. post up some pics and bike stories. I got plenty of stories haha, and everything on my bike is tight, I make sure of that. Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/
94retta(219) Posted March 9, 2011 Report Posted March 9, 2011 http://www.danscomp.com/451038.php?cat=PARTS Baad ass deal right here. Oh and in 175s. BUILD LOG
superdave07 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Posted March 9, 2011 Gata find out what the cup is. I wana say its american. American is separate bearings from The bearing cup. It could be mid. But dought it. Mid is the bearings and cup are one peice and slightly smaller. There is euro which is tinny and threads in, then spanish (my bike) just as small as euro but has to be pressed just like the mid. Then you have to find the diamiter of the spindal its either 22mm or 20mm. Great chance your sproket is missing its adapter from 22 to 20 and thats causing your tight loose spot. Anywho tell me how tall and how much you weigh is and ill tell you your crank arm size you should get. To get your gearing small your gana have to get a whoole new back rim cuz from the looks and sound of it you have a freewheel. Cant go any smaller then 12 teeth on a free wheel. So youd need a cog hub. 9t then you can do 25 up front. And itll pedal the exact same as it does now 44t 16 is what you have. I'm 5' 7" to 5' 8", I weigh probably 180? I gained a few pounds since I quit riding for a summer lol, this town is boring If you could could you link me to the parts? And what adapter are you talking about? Also the bearing is that one type where the ball bearings are in a metal circle. your crank arm length should be measured by your inseam. measure that and you can finger out what size arms you need. most of the time if your shorter than 6 foot 175mm is the most comfortable. Xterra * 69 Camaro * Audi S5 36 Ford * 51 Mercury looking for wire sponsor www.flyracing.com
Rebel4055 Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Posted March 9, 2011 http://www.danscomp.com/451038.php?cat=PARTS Baad ass deal right here. Still lost on which size spindle I need and what other hardware I need to go along with it. And the 175 I have on this bike now feels nice. Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/
94retta(219) Posted March 9, 2011 Report Posted March 9, 2011 Honestly bro id just buy a new bike.. Nice ones start at like 300... BUILD LOG
Rebel4055 Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Posted March 9, 2011 Honestly bro id just buy a new bike.. Nice ones start at like 300... You seem to know a good amount, what bike would you recommend? Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/
Dan208 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Posted March 9, 2011 Thanks for this thread. I haven't ridden forever but I'm getting back into it. Found a Haro F4 on Craigslist for $100 a few months ago. I plan on replacing most of the parts on it. Feedback thread- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/70871-dan208-feedback-thread/page__p__981961__hl__dan208__fromsearch__1entry981961
doug118 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Posted March 9, 2011 The bike has unsealed american BB. I'm 99% sure the chainring is bent. take the chain off and see if there is a tight spot in the cranks. if there is then it's your bearings Yea, most that stuff was on my techniques until I cracked the frame. LOL I had 2 sets of the carbon fiber spin rims but sold the older styles that had the white stickers. Still wish I had my hawk, but I outgrew that bitch, and thats when I got the techniques. I always like the square frame tubes... I rode one of the prototype Hawk mini frames, the one with no top tube or seat stays. I outgrew it and my father switched me to a TI frame and fork setup Fast foward many years and I now possess this. the very first production frame to run 20mm dropouts. This frame is either number one or number two off of the assembly line. It's great to know people. This season is my 20th season racing and I'm only 23 2001 Tahoe. Huge front stage and 55+ substage http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/196418-another-tahoe-build-huge-front-stage-and-155-substage/
doug118 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Posted March 9, 2011 Ti spokes? Yess not to sound like a dick but those aren't TI spokes. They are only made in raw, rainbow, blue, and gold. And the blue is more like a grey/blue, not teal 2001 Tahoe. Huge front stage and 55+ substage http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/196418-another-tahoe-build-huge-front-stage-and-155-substage/
94retta(219) Posted March 9, 2011 Report Posted March 9, 2011 Noot to be a dick but if you notice they are somewhat raw. Spraypaint brotha. Trus me they ti. Also look very close each spoke has baby blue and green on it. They dont do that either. Ti spokes? Yess not to sound like a dick but those aren't TI spokes. They are only made in raw, rainbow, blue, and gold. And the blue is more like a grey/blue, not teal BUILD LOG
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.