Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

Recommended Posts

so i know most of you recommend running a system WITHOUT an isolator and i know it works but all cars are different and cars computers just sometimes don't like the extra a voltage and start giving problems.

so i think im gonna have to isolate one battery for my car so that it can stop giving me problems like:

battery sign comes on sometimes and then the voltage on the stinger volt meter goes to 13.8 from like 15.0 and before you guys say its the batteries or alternator i checked them out and batteries float at 12.6 12.7 and the alternator puts out 14.8 cold. so its none of those.

another problem is that when i press the brake sometimes when im driving my mids and high amp cuts off because of the voltage spike and then it comes back on this is extremely annoying. so i think that if i was to isolate the battery it can stop this problem because the isolated primary battery will handle the spike? right??

another problem it can fix is that when i put the car in drive i get a like slight baaaaaaaaaaaaaaah noise from the speakers but when its in park it doesnt do that so i have no clue what this is and again its annoying

i have a very short body ground and i cleaned all the paint off and its shiny and i checked the ground with a volt meter and it reads 14.5-6

whats being used and whats it in

the amp is a Kicker 1x500.4, the batteries are (2) optima yellow tops and (1) XS d5100

i have one DC 270xp alternator

i drive a 2008 Jeep Wrangler JK (if your wondering what car)

the isolator im thinking about getting is this one

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18720_PAC-PAC-500.html

pac500.jpg

General Features

500 Amp Relay/Battery Isolator

Used to isolate a second battery powering audio, visual navigation, or other equipment

Prevents the equipment from discharging the main battery when it is operated while the engine is off

Extends battery life

Handles 500 amps continuous and 700 amp surges

The coil will operate safely up to 16.5 volts

Useful for completely isolating equipment from power when off

Relay coil draws less than one amp when on

Switching power must be 10 to 16 VDC

1-year Manufacturer's warranty

let know if this is a good isolator, i don't know much about isolators but i have a feeling that it can help with one of those problems

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know that PAC is a good brand, they make great interfaces for headunits so id imagine that their isolators are good as well.

2010 Subaru Impreza

Pioneer AVH-P1400DVD

2 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch HX2

Audison LRx 1.1K

superglue a dildo to the center of the cone....lube it.....then have that dumbass sit on it :good:

while playing a 10hz note

haha, this reminds me of a paintball sticker i have "my balls slap at 300fps"

now I want a sticker that says "i fuck at 10hz"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a question. why do you have 3 batteries for a single 4 channel? also, how would adding batteries INCREASE voltage?

edit: and how the hell did you manage to measure 14.5v on the GROUND wire?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

an isolator wont do anything you are looking for. its just a relay, not some magic one way valve. when the car is on it is a closed circuit. when the car is off its an open circuit. so a relay is the exact same thing as a straight wire while the car is on.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a question. why do you have 3 batteries for a single 4 channel? also, how would adding batteries INCREASE voltage?

edit: and how the hell did you manage to measure 14.5v on the GROUND wire?

he is just measuring voltage like you normally would. if you really want to check the quality of your ground you need to connect one probe to your amp's ground and the other probe to the chassis away from the grounding point and measure the resistance. that or connect that chassis probe to the front battery's negative.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a question. why do you have 3 batteries for a single 4 channel? also, how would adding batteries INCREASE voltage?

edit: and how the hell did you manage to measure 14.5v on the GROUND wire?

i have 3 batteries because i have a T40001bd and and 4 channel amp my voltage is good its just if it spikes by like.3 it will trip out the kicker amp but the T40001bd wont be affected that thing just keeps pounding.

do you u know a reason why it makes that strange BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAh noise in the speakers when i put it drive. what do you think is causing that? before i had alternator whine coming but that was because i had my ground running from my front battery to my 4 channel. then when i connected the ground to the body it stopped but now theres a strage BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAh noise

and yah the 14.5 is what skittles said but i tested it by connecting the positive probe on the amp B+ and the negative on the ground terminal on the body, did i do that right?

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a question. why do you have 3 batteries for a single 4 channel? also, how would adding batteries INCREASE voltage?

edit: and how the hell did you manage to measure 14.5v on the GROUND wire?

i have 3 batteries because i have a T40001bd and and 4 channel amp my voltage is good its just if it spikes by like.3 it will trip out the kicker amp but the T40001bd wont be affected that thing just keeps pounding.

do you u know a reason why it makes that strange BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAh noise in the speakers when i put it drive. what do you think is causing that? before i had alternator whine coming but that was because i had my ground running from my front battery to my 4 channel. then when i connected the ground to the body it stopped but now theres a strage BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAh noise

and yah the 14.5 is what skittles said but i tested it by connecting the positive probe on the amp B+ and the negative on the ground terminal on the body, did i do that right?

thanks

all you measured was the voltage across the wire. you didnt measure the connection. you could measure from amp + and somewhere on the chassis. then the current has to go through the chassis and your connection. measure at the battery at the same time and see if there is a difference in voltage. use the setting where you can see the hundredth place, 14.xx

does it only do the noise while the transmission shifts or does it constantly do it while the car is in drive? its hard to tell without hearing it... i had a crazy loud noise cause by a speaker terminal touching metal. but that was as soon as the system was turned on.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1341 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...