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Lights dimming...even with Big3, Mechman Alt, and Optima battery...


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I have always had horrible experiences with AutoZone testing my alts or starters. The guy even took off the positive connection and tested it; passed. Took off the negative; passed. Their machine is fucked up and made to let it pass so they don't owe you a new part.

/rant

Edited by Awhitewookie

MY BUILD

1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport

1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything

Alpine cda-9884

Crescendo CZ components

(2) Crescendo bc2000's

(2) Jolt 150ah

(2) Yellow top optimas

(1) Juicebox black cherry addition

(1) Mechman 270 avbm

miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's

You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts.

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just for future reference, your headlights dont dim because they are HID's. they output the same power with 9-16v or whatever your ballast states. ive started my car with my lights on and they didnt even flicker.

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You should find out what your voltage is to see if its dropping on a load. But I don't know, check grounds might be a good idea as well

Yeah, I need to redo the grounds going to the amps. That'd probably help! It's the one place, I've always worried about. I think I'm just gonna run a ground through the body down to the frame! So, that way it's solid!

Float mounted IPad Mini playing through Bluetooth

IStreamer for Iphone or Ipad

Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3

RE Audio XXX 6.5's in each door with a second set soon to be added to the front doors

Two Rockford T600-4's for the components

Blowthrough with two Sundown SA-8's

RF T1500-bd's for the subs

8000k H.I.D.'s in headlights and fogs

Lifted 2" in front and 2" in back (soon to be installed a Suspension Maxx 1.5" body lift)

17" Ultra Rogue 175's on Nitto Trail Grappler 285/17 70's

Undercover Bedcover

Surco Roof Rack

Five Hella Lights on front bumper

270A Mechman Alternator

Two Optima Yellow Top batteries

Dynamat double layered each door and roof, quadruple layered on back wall, single layered on floor with Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro on top.

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i would replace that yellow top with a xs power

Soon...I hope.

Float mounted IPad Mini playing through Bluetooth

IStreamer for Iphone or Ipad

Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3

RE Audio XXX 6.5's in each door with a second set soon to be added to the front doors

Two Rockford T600-4's for the components

Blowthrough with two Sundown SA-8's

RF T1500-bd's for the subs

8000k H.I.D.'s in headlights and fogs

Lifted 2" in front and 2" in back (soon to be installed a Suspension Maxx 1.5" body lift)

17" Ultra Rogue 175's on Nitto Trail Grappler 285/17 70's

Undercover Bedcover

Surco Roof Rack

Five Hella Lights on front bumper

270A Mechman Alternator

Two Optima Yellow Top batteries

Dynamat double layered each door and roof, quadruple layered on back wall, single layered on floor with Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro on top.

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I have always had horrible experiences with AutoZone testing my alts or starters. The guy even took off the positive connection and tested it; passed. Took off the negative; passed. Their machine is fucked up and made to let it pass so they don't owe you a new part.

/rant

Yeah! He didn't even sound like he knew what he was doing! It was pissing me off!

Float mounted IPad Mini playing through Bluetooth

IStreamer for Iphone or Ipad

Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3

RE Audio XXX 6.5's in each door with a second set soon to be added to the front doors

Two Rockford T600-4's for the components

Blowthrough with two Sundown SA-8's

RF T1500-bd's for the subs

8000k H.I.D.'s in headlights and fogs

Lifted 2" in front and 2" in back (soon to be installed a Suspension Maxx 1.5" body lift)

17" Ultra Rogue 175's on Nitto Trail Grappler 285/17 70's

Undercover Bedcover

Surco Roof Rack

Five Hella Lights on front bumper

270A Mechman Alternator

Two Optima Yellow Top batteries

Dynamat double layered each door and roof, quadruple layered on back wall, single layered on floor with Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro on top.

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Share on other sites

just for future reference, your headlights dont dim because they are HID's. they output the same power with 9-16v or whatever your ballast states. ive started my car with my lights on and they didnt even flicker.

See, that's what I thought. Thanks for clearing that up!

Float mounted IPad Mini playing through Bluetooth

IStreamer for Iphone or Ipad

Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3

RE Audio XXX 6.5's in each door with a second set soon to be added to the front doors

Two Rockford T600-4's for the components

Blowthrough with two Sundown SA-8's

RF T1500-bd's for the subs

8000k H.I.D.'s in headlights and fogs

Lifted 2" in front and 2" in back (soon to be installed a Suspension Maxx 1.5" body lift)

17" Ultra Rogue 175's on Nitto Trail Grappler 285/17 70's

Undercover Bedcover

Surco Roof Rack

Five Hella Lights on front bumper

270A Mechman Alternator

Two Optima Yellow Top batteries

Dynamat double layered each door and roof, quadruple layered on back wall, single layered on floor with Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro on top.

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Share on other sites

If all the wiring is right, then you are simply pulling more power then the reserve of the battery and you are seeing alternator charge delay. If you play a sine track like a 45 hz track or whatever your setup peaks at if you know, that way you get some drop, play that. Watch the drop, and in 5-10 seconds the alt should recover the voltage since it is a constant pull in current, when you play music it is dynamic, always changing the output of the amp, so you need battery reserve to take up that delay in the alt.

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2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db
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Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw

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Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab

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If all the wiring is right, then you are simply pulling more power then the reserve of the battery and you are seeing alternator charge delay. If you play a sine track like a 45 hz track or whatever your setup peaks at if you know, that way you get some drop, play that. Watch the drop, and in 5-10 seconds the alt should recover the voltage since it is a constant pull in current, when you play music it is dynamic, always changing the output of the amp, so you need battery reserve to take up that delay in the alt.

Okay, so I redid my ground wire and ran it all the way to the battery! For some reason, I had a little, and I mean very little< bit of alternator whine, so I wired a 0g ground from the alternator bolt to my battery and lo and behold, alternator whine is gone. I'm still getting a very small amount of dimming at full tilt, but it's alot better than it was! Thanks so much AMI for helping. I'm gonna order another battery hopefully in the next week and I should be set!

Float mounted IPad Mini playing through Bluetooth

IStreamer for Iphone or Ipad

Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3

RE Audio XXX 6.5's in each door with a second set soon to be added to the front doors

Two Rockford T600-4's for the components

Blowthrough with two Sundown SA-8's

RF T1500-bd's for the subs

8000k H.I.D.'s in headlights and fogs

Lifted 2" in front and 2" in back (soon to be installed a Suspension Maxx 1.5" body lift)

17" Ultra Rogue 175's on Nitto Trail Grappler 285/17 70's

Undercover Bedcover

Surco Roof Rack

Five Hella Lights on front bumper

270A Mechman Alternator

Two Optima Yellow Top batteries

Dynamat double layered each door and roof, quadruple layered on back wall, single layered on floor with Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro on top.

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