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dc xl 15 box build NEED HELP


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I'd listen to dwright over TIG... No offense to TIG but dwright is runnin XL 15s and is a dc dealer but what does he know right? Also the port info is wrong

How exactly is my info wrong? I used the same program as you to get my info. Only difference is that the ft3 is different and tuning is slightly off.

the dimensions of your port

with your dimensions of 17" long on the first peice and 3" on the second peice give you a effictive port length of 23.75", witch lowers the tuning, along with the net volume

when your port bends and its say 3" wide, it adds 3" to the effective port length, witch means your physical port length needs to be shorter

with the dimensions you gave him on the box and port it would be

3.18 cubes NET

tuning of 32.37Hz

37.5 square inches of port (11.79" per cube)

and the effective port lenght would be 23.75 inches (physical port length would be 20", notice thats minus 3" witch is the width of the port, amd minus .75" witch is the thickness of the wood on the front wall of the box)

its not that wrong, but it makes a diffrence

this picture will help you under stand

1zl981u.png

hope that all made sence :pardon:

2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab

1994 Chevy Full Size blazer

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Ive got an XL 15' on an AQ3500d and I made box a litle over 3cubes that wangs I am tuned high (48hz) for comps. dcsoundlab says right @ 3.5 cuft

I have a dc xl 15 on an aq3500.1 also and my box is 3.8 cubes tuned to 33 hrts with 51in2

those are good box sizes for the amount of power yal are throwing at them (over double RMS)

the OP is not throwing that much power

less power=bigger box=more efficent

2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab

1994 Chevy Full Size blazer

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I'd listen to dwright over TIG... No offense to TIG but dwright is runnin XL 15s and is a dc dealer but what does he know right? Also the port info is wrong

How exactly is my info wrong? I used the same program as you to get my info. Only difference is that the ft3 is different and tuning is slightly off.

the dimensions of your port

with your dimensions of 17" long on the first peice and 3" on the second peice give you a effictive port length of 23.75", witch lowers the tuning, along with the net volume

when your port bends and its say 3" wide, it adds 3" to the effective port length, witch means your physical port length needs to be shorter

with the dimensions you gave him on the box and port it would be

3.18 cubes NET

tuning of 32.37Hz

37.5 square inches of port (11.79" per cube)

and the effective port lenght would be 23.75 inches (physical port length would be 20", notice thats minus 3" witch is the width of the port, amd minus .75" witch is the thickness of the wood on the front wall of the box)

its not that wrong, but it makes a diffrence

this picture will help you under stand

1zl981u.png

hope that all made sence :pardon:

I see what your saying. I guess I built my box wrong then. If my port is 20" what would I make it? 16.25? If that is the case then I need to do some cutting lmao

Since were all having a moment of truth.

I hate country too..

I'd only listen to it if I got some hotass bitch in my car and shes gonna suck my dick.

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I'd listen to dwright over TIG... No offense to TIG but dwright is runnin XL 15s and is a dc dealer but what does he know right? Also the port info is wrong

How exactly is my info wrong? I used the same program as you to get my info. Only difference is that the ft3 is different and tuning is slightly off.

the dimensions of your port

with your dimensions of 17" long on the first peice and 3" on the second peice give you a effictive port length of 23.75", witch lowers the tuning, along with the net volume

when your port bends and its say 3" wide, it adds 3" to the effective port length, witch means your physical port length needs to be shorter

with the dimensions you gave him on the box and port it would be

3.18 cubes NET

tuning of 32.37Hz

37.5 square inches of port (11.79" per cube)

and the effective port lenght would be 23.75 inches (physical port length would be 20", notice thats minus 3" witch is the width of the port, amd minus .75" witch is the thickness of the wood on the front wall of the box)

its not that wrong, but it makes a diffrence

this picture will help you under stand

1zl981u.png

hope that all made sence :pardon:

I see what your saying. I guess I built my box wrong then. If my port is 20" what would I make it? 16.25? If that is the case then I need to do some cutting lmao

if you get me ther dimensions of your box and port i can help you out

2014 Chevy Silverado Crewcab

1994 Chevy Full Size blazer

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pics?

Vehicle: 2017 Chevrolet Silverado High Country

Electrical: 320A Singer Alt, (2) Limitless Lithium 15ah, Full Throttle FT680-48

Speakers: Stevens Audio SA 6 (ACTIVE), Audio Designs 3”

Subwoofer: (4) B2 Audio XM 8’s

Amplifiers: (2) B2 Audio Rage 2500.1, (1) B2 Audio Rage 1200.6

Processors: NavTv M650 (integration), Helix DSP Pro MK2

 

Silverado Build Log

 

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here ya go man

ei8njt.jpg

4.53 cubes after all disp.

tuning-34hz

62.5 sq inches of port (13.8 per cube)

sub up port back (three common walls)

you might want to at least add a second baffle to that

Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs.

More box builds

some cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches!

I'm with captain stupid.

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*ucking box broke on me i knew i didnt add enuff liquidnail ahahah guys im gonna need some new specs 14 is my max hight and i can go 24 deep i need to make this next box stronger my dc just kiled it im thinking fiberglass or somthing ahah

#winning

2 DC AUDIO XL 12s

2 hifionics 2600

2 Deka yellow tops

big 3

Bacon strips and

Bacon strips and

Bacon strips

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