jeyrapboy Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 have you spark tested your coils yet? if they can spark a spark tester then it will have no issue firing plugs under compression. if your getting extra gas you are either getting unmetered air your regulator is bad, an o2 sensor could've died, or you've got a cat issue. your not in cali are you? sorry to lazy to check. another thing you can check is hold the spark plug wire about an inch from a good ground (don't use the battery you could explode yourself). Whats a cat? Lmfao na man i cut that shit off and took that bitch to the junk yard about 3 months ago when it was clogged all to hell. I have not checked for spark yet. Whats leading me to believe its a misfire is that fact that its idling rough and then upon acceleration i get what sounds like my rod coming out of my damn exhaust pipe. But im open to ALL suggestiong that why if i replace something and it dont work i can just move on the the next thing But under the hood all i hear is my lifter ticking away I am going to check for spark here in a little bit and make sure im getting spark everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeyrapboy Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Well tomorrow i am going to see what i can do about starting to replace parts... Start with some wires... If that dont help i will have to wait till Thursday to pick up a fuel filter and coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Where do you get your gas? Bad gas can make your engine sputter. You said it started doing it after the gas station. Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeyrapboy Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Where do you get your gas? Bad gas can make your engine sputter. You said it started doing it after the gas station. circle k, It was doing that before i got the gas but i have not ruled that out. Looks like a lot of touble shooting and trying different parts is ahead of me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassHZ Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 i would do a full tune up plugs,wires,air filter,fuel filter That sounded similar to my car when i had two bad sensors, o2 and tps only mine did it all the time. Have you noticed shitty mpg? or is it pretty consistent with what its always been? Done did a tune up, Only thing i didnt do is a fuel filter and wires which i plan on doing Also its a jeep. Its redefines the term "SHITTY GAS MILEAGE" u got that right my moms grand cherokee I6 gets 13 city same as a full size tahoe or yukon thats pitiful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toytrkdrvr Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 What plugs did you put in it? Jeeps known for bad gas mileage and are known for running shitty on expensive plugs. They prefer the cheap champion plugs that the vehicle came with. Champion Copper/Spark Plug RC12LYC Fuel filter is easy, it's right above the rear axle, in front of the fuel tank. I've replaced quite a few coils as well. There are TSB's for poor engine performance for that year. Updated spark plug wires/crank sensor and ignition coils. Since you replaced the exhaust manifold I would check routing of the fuel lines that go down from the manifolds to the back and make sure they are not near the exhaust, which could lead to vapor lock in the fuel line which can cause sputtering/hard start after hot soak. See if you can borrow/rent a fuel pressure gauge. PROCEDURE to check fuel pressure, from the service manual. 1 ) Connect the 0-414 kPa (0-61 psi) fuel pressure gauge (from Gauge Set 5069) to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail. 2 ) Remove vacuum line from pressure regulator. 3 ) Start the vehicle. Note: gauge reading. With vacuum line disconnected, fuel pressure should be approximately 269 kPa (39 psi) . 4 ) Connect vacuum line to pressure regulator. Note gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be approximately 214 kPa (31 psi) . Fuel pressure should be approximately 55-69 kPa (8-10 psi) higher with vacuum line removed from regulator. If not, inspect pressure regulator vacuum line for leaks, kinks or blockage. 7 ) If fuel pressure is low, momentarily pinch shut the hose section of the fuel return line. CAUTION: Fuel pressure will rise to as much as 95 psi when the fuel return line is pinched shut. Shut engine down immediately after pinching off fuel return line. If fuel pressure remains low, inspect the fuel supply line, fuel filter, and fuel rail inlet for blockage. If fuel pressure rises, replace fuel pressure regulator. 8 ) If fuel pressure is above specifications, inspect the fuel return line for kinks and blockage. 9 ) Check the fuel pump flow rate (capacity). Refer to Fuel Pump Capacity Test. A good fuel pump will deliver at least 1 liter of fuel per minute with the hose section of fuel return line pinched off. If the fuel pump does not pump adequately, inspect the fuel system for a plugged fuel filter or the filter sock (at the fuel pump inlet). 10 ) Fuel pump flow rate can be checked with and old air conditioning gauge hose. Connect one end of the hose to the fuel test port on the fuel rail. Place the other end of the hose into a container of at least 1 liter capacity. Run the fuel pump by installing a jumper wire across the power feed side of the fuel pump relay connector. Be sure to pinch off the hose section of the fuel return line, or most of the fuel will be returned to the fuel tank. NOTE: The fuel pressure regulator is not adjustable. No MAF or EGR on that engine, so all good there. Hopefully you get it diagnosed soon, beats wasting money throwing parts at a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeyrapboy Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 i would do a full tune up plugs,wires,air filter,fuel filter That sounded similar to my car when i had two bad sensors, o2 and tps only mine did it all the time. Have you noticed shitty mpg? or is it pretty consistent with what its always been? Done did a tune up, Only thing i didnt do is a fuel filter and wires which i plan on doing Also its a jeep. Its redefines the term "SHITTY GAS MILEAGE" u got that right my moms grand cherokee I6 gets 13 city same as a full size tahoe or yukon thats pitiful Right, Right now i am doing some math and coming up to about 9-10MPG City What plugs did you put in it? Jeeps known for bad gas mileage and are known for running shitty on expensive plugs. They prefer the cheap champion plugs that the vehicle came with. Champion Copper/Spark Plug RC12LYC Fuel filter is easy, it's right above the rear axle, in front of the fuel tank. I've replaced quite a few coils as well. There are TSB's for poor engine performance for that year. Updated spark plug wires/crank sensor and ignition coils. Since you replaced the exhaust manifold I would check routing of the fuel lines that go down from the manifolds to the back and make sure they are not near the exhaust, which could lead to vapor lock in the fuel line which can cause sputtering/hard start after hot soak. See if you can borrow/rent a fuel pressure gauge. PROCEDURE to check fuel pressure, from the service manual. 1 ) Connect the 0-414 kPa (0-61 psi) fuel pressure gauge (from Gauge Set 5069) to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail. 2 ) Remove vacuum line from pressure regulator. 3 ) Start the vehicle. Note: gauge reading. With vacuum line disconnected, fuel pressure should be approximately 269 kPa (39 psi) . 4 ) Connect vacuum line to pressure regulator. Note gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be approximately 214 kPa (31 psi) . Fuel pressure should be approximately 55-69 kPa (8-10 psi) higher with vacuum line removed from regulator. If not, inspect pressure regulator vacuum line for leaks, kinks or blockage. 7 ) If fuel pressure is low, momentarily pinch shut the hose section of the fuel return line. CAUTION: Fuel pressure will rise to as much as 95 psi when the fuel return line is pinched shut. Shut engine down immediately after pinching off fuel return line. If fuel pressure remains low, inspect the fuel supply line, fuel filter, and fuel rail inlet for blockage. If fuel pressure rises, replace fuel pressure regulator. 8 ) If fuel pressure is above specifications, inspect the fuel return line for kinks and blockage. 9 ) Check the fuel pump flow rate (capacity). Refer to Fuel Pump Capacity Test. A good fuel pump will deliver at least 1 liter of fuel per minute with the hose section of fuel return line pinched off. If the fuel pump does not pump adequately, inspect the fuel system for a plugged fuel filter or the filter sock (at the fuel pump inlet). 10 ) Fuel pump flow rate can be checked with and old air conditioning gauge hose. Connect one end of the hose to the fuel test port on the fuel rail. Place the other end of the hose into a container of at least 1 liter capacity. Run the fuel pump by installing a jumper wire across the power feed side of the fuel pump relay connector. Be sure to pinch off the hose section of the fuel return line, or most of the fuel will be returned to the fuel tank. NOTE: The fuel pressure regulator is not adjustable. No MAF or EGR on that engine, so all good there. Hopefully you get it diagnosed soon, beats wasting money throwing parts at a problem. Plugs used where the cheapest autozone has to offer, so champion. Replace the exhaust manifold, Ignition rotor and cap. Right now i am looking into replacing the ignition coil and plugs. If that dont work Fuel filter. Then look into a possible Distributor issue. Also going to try and rent a fuel pressure testing system. Right now i am just hoping its a electrical/Fuel issue Thats a easier fix as im sure it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt402 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 have u tried cleaning out ur air filter with an air compresor? or maybe taping around the seals of the air intake? my truck is kinda picky about the air intake... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeyrapboy Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 have u tried cleaning out ur air filter with an air compresor? or maybe taping around the seals of the air intake? my truck is kinda picky about the air intake... The actual filter itself it relatively new, as far as the air box i cleaned it out when i had it out for my exhaust manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammitch0 Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 My 4.0 l6 gets like 20-21mpg idk what you guys are smoking... and man your gauges and wheel are the SAME as on my jeep haha go figure looks like I have a jeep buddy hope you ge tit fixed oh yeah and my lifters stick too its a bish. Grand Cherokee Team Backwoods Bumpers DC 15" Level 3's /w 4 Coils Pioneer deh4200ub Pioneer 3-ways Pioneer Tweeters Pioneer GM-D9500F Audiopipe 1500.1D @ 14.4v Clarion Equalizer Knuconeptz Kollosus 0ga Knuconpetz Kollosus 4ga Coming Soon: 270xp / xs1200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.