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For the passenger rear window I would disconnect connector 801 and test from there. Diagram states what you should see with voltmeter depending on switch position. I would do a quick check with ohm meter, both wires should have continuity to ground when switches are at rest. Make sure when you are testing the system that you have the switches installed on the wiring harness. The drivers front window switch provides power and ground for all the other doors. Front window should have the same thing at connector 503 but the solid state module will need to be checked as well.

Oxygen Sensor Behind Three Way Catalytic Converter, Checking Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required * Multimeter * wiring diagrams NOTE: When servicing terminals in harness connector of Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Behind Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) G130, use only gold-plated terminals. Test requirements * Fuse for Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Behind Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) G130 OK. * Oxygen Sensor (O2S) 1 (behind Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC)) Heater Z29 OK. See: Oxygen Sensor\Testing and Inspection\Oxygen Sensor Heater Z29, Checking * Battery voltage at least 12.5 volts . * All electrical consumers such as, lights and rear window defroster, switched off. * Vehicles with automatic transmission, selector lever in position "P" or "N". * A/C switched off. * Ground (GND) connections between engine/transmission/chassis OK. * Exhaust system between catalytic converter and cylinder head properly sealed. * Coolant Temperature at least 80 degrees C . Test procedure * Perform a preliminary check to verify the customers complaint. See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Preliminary Check Function test * Perform the function test in Diagnostic Mode 06. See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Mode 06 - Read Test Results For Specific Diagnostic Functions If the specified values are not obtained: Start diagnosis * Check the electrical harness connector for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals. * Disconnect the 4-pin electrical harness connector - 1 - from the Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Behind Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) G130. * Using a Multimeter, check the component terminals 3 to 4 for voltage. Specified value: 0.400 to 0.500 Volts * Switch ignition off. If specified value is not obtained: * Replace Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Behind Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) G130. If specified value is obtained: Testing of oxygen sensor wires * Using the Multimeter, check the following wiring connections for an open circuit. Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Behind Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) J623 Three Way Catalytic Converter electrical connector T121 G(TWC) 130 electrical harness connector terminal or test box socket Pin 3 10 Pin 4 11 Specified resistance 1.5 ohms max. If the specification is not obtained: * Check the wiring for a short circuit to Battery positive (+) or an open circuit. * If necessary, repair the wiring connection. * Erase the DTC memory. See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Mode 04 - Erase DTC Memory * Perform a road test to verify repair. If the DTC does not return: Repair complete, Generate readiness code. See: Monitors, Trips, Drive Cycles and Readiness Codes * End diagnosis. If the DTC does return and no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage supply was OK: * Replace the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) J623. * Assembly is performed in the reverse of the removal. Final procedures After the repair work, the following work steps must be performed in the following sequence: 1. Check the DTC memory. See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Mode 03 - Read DTC Memory 2. If necessary, erase the DTC memory. See: Scan Tool Testing and Procedures\Diagnostic Mode 04 - Erase DTC Memory 3. If the DTC memory was erased, generate readiness code. See: Monitors, Trips, Drive Cycles and Readiness Codes End of Diagnosis.

I use Pandora at work as well, and have it on my droid. Its free up to 40 hours worth, then you can pay .99 for the rest of the month with ads or pay the 36 and have unlimited listening with no ads for the year.

He is right about crank sensors dropping out and no check engine light Seen plenty of those at the shop. Your Durango came with a 5.2 or a 5.9 only. There is a star case(Dodges technician support center) that says the center engine controller connector can break and allow the pins to back out causing a stall. I have seen several vehicles where you can lightly pull up or push down on the engine controller connectors and the car will stall/run rough. You've got a good one to figure out, you can do it if your good with a dmm and some patience. I'd stop by a parts store and just have them look to see if a dtc set, most likely not, but it wouldn't hurt. What else turns off when the car stalls? Radio? Instrument cluster stays lit? Warning lights come on, like when you first turn key on? Try to get as much info as you can to see what other things are affected by the shut down, before you cycle the key to restart it. Try to be safe about it. Does it restart immediately? I'd lean toward a wiring connection/ignition switch/alarm problem,

If its backfiring through the intake that could sound like a knock. If there is Deisel fuel in the gas that will cause hard starts, poor running and lean backfires. I would get a fuel sample, and double check the spark plug wire order. 34 12 front of car. plugs and ignition coil are situated in same direction.

Well, I'd try and localize the tick when its happening so you dont overspend trying to fix it. Use a screwdriver or an extension as a stethescope and try to figure out where its coming from. Just be carefull of the moving parts so you dont hurt anyone or cause other damage.

It could be the oil, 4.0s like to break exhaust manifolds and the studs that hold them on. An exhaust leak will make a tick sound when cold and then go away as the engine heats up. They break at the collector where the front and rear sections come down into one pipe. You should be able to shine a flashlight from the top of the engine and look at it when looking down next to the brake master cylinder.

Just to clarify, A/C works good when shes is cruising at 50+mph but does not blow cold when stopped at a red light for a while? I would check and make sure the radiator fan is coming on when you select the a/c to be on when at idle sitting in park. IF its not, it should to keep a/c system pressures low in their operating range. Otherwise pressures will be too high and the pressure transducers will turn off a/c operation until pressures drop. When traveling above 40mph the fan does not need to operate to keep a/c system pressures down as much as airflow through the grille should be enough for that.

My guess without knowing codes, and vehicle info. Sounds like the brake switch is going bad, or the power going through the switch isnt battery voltage like it should be, which could be the wiring/fuse block or the switch. Time for some diagnosing.

Try this. DLC listed as under dash center of vehicle.

Even an upgrade version is a full install disc. Upgrade versions require a previous install disc as proof or a current installation on the hard drive to upgrade. I have xp on my home computer, and installed win 7 there as dual boot to try it. Vista on my laptop. The Win7 install was flawless and didn't require much input through the whole process. Win 7 is much faster than Vista and nicer to use.

One just opened up near where I work and there is always a line just waiting to get a parking spot. Some of the guys here at work say there is a reason they only advertise their drinks.......

Pull the spark plugs out and try to turn the motor over by hand again. That way you are not fighting the compression. If there is mechanical interference it will continue to not turn over completely. Timing belts will have a loose side.

The most common reason to see the IAT code is you might have left the sensor unplugged when you did the air filter. Circuit high is an open in the circuit or unplugged completely. As far as the O2 code. Its usually the O2 itself. Next common problem is an open on the circuit, usually rodents eating through the wiring. You replaced parts, did you clear the codes and then retest for smog? Are your OBD monitors run? That would cause a failure too. I can help later, if you still need it. ASE Master Tech and Chrysler Master Electrical Technician for too long.

You are correct.

Call the dealer parts department and get a price quote, then go to the junkyard and see if they have one. I've seen where the junkyard part was more expensive than the new one. Posting make and model and a picture would be helpfull.

Looks like you had a good time. Glad you enjoyed the area. Not many places you can go surfing in the morning and then go snow skiing in the afternoon.

That sure is a Torx bit. Common sizes for seat belts are the 45 and 50. Probably want to go with a 3/8ths ratchet or you will break your 1/4 drive one. Haha Use a torch. We had a guy at work with 2 stripped lug nuts on 2 different wheels and another tech told him to use the torch to help remove the wheels, cause everyone else does. Well the wheels are steel with a plastic outer beauty panel bonded to the steel. He completely destroyed the first wheel and completely destroyed the 2nd wheel because he didn't think hey I damaged the first wheel maybe I shouldn't use the torch on the second. Cost on the wheels was around 450 each. He was let go a few days later.

First week in February. Microcenters are out of stock now according to the website when you try to add it to the shopping cart.

I just built a new computer for my self and went e8400 dual core, instead of the q6600 quad. I am real happy with the dual even though theres some issues with the temp sensors not accurately displaying core temp. I got mine at Microcenter. Seems they are out of stock too. They had them for 189 when everyone had them for 225ish. Newegg didnt have them either when I bought all my other equipment.

Does your horn work? Air bag light on? Could be the clockspring, thats fairly common when symptoms like yours occur. Your likely to have seperate fuses for those systems, I would tend to look at what they have in common, ground problem maybe but I would put my money on the clockspring as your going to constantly be turning it. To replace it, if thats the problem, is take the air bag off, remove the steering wheel and then the steering column covers and it should be easy from there. Just make sure you disconnect the battery and wait a few minutes before you start taking things apart. If your not comfortable about doing any of that, definitely take it to some one. Edit: Looking closer your cruise control switch is on the steering wheel and your turn signal switch is not. So the clockspring may not be the problem. Its possible you have two seperate problems and found them both because one that you use more stopped working? Edit2: Check fuse 23, 15amp in the central junction block which is located under dash on left side. Hope this helps.

Pushing the switch resets the contacts. It works like a circuit breaker. IF the car restarts for you without pushing the switch I doubt thats your problem.

I'd call his insurance and start a claim as soon as possible. Chances are he might have only gotten the insurance to register his truck and let it lapse. IF he pays cash to repair it great. IF not you will know wether he has insurance for real or not. His rates won't go up if you start a claim and he pays cash, only if they pay repairs. Goodluck.

The Blue arrow is your timing marks. The Yellow arrow is where a magnetic pick up probe goes to help techs set timing without having to look at the timing marks. Its not going to hurt anything unless its loose. Keep an eye on your coolant level. It could be a head gasket/Intake manifold/timing cover leak. Probably just a water pump gasket leak based off of your current pictures. In your first picture, try to get a look at higher to the left to see how far up the green trail goes. 2nd picture it would be left of the green trail, behind that resivoir mount. See how high the trail goes. Leaks always go from highest to lowest. Motor-Alldata shows water pump from caddy to be 225.00 and 2.1 hours labor. Those are old prices. Don't be suprised it a shop tells you 2.5 hours labor.