audio1der Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 Checking out all these cool door panel build threads has me jonseing, but I wonder about the rigidity of a door panel and if that's really stiff/rigid enough for midbass drivers that are kicking pretty good? The last kicks I built were 3/4" MDF cut to fit into the kick/corners under the stock carpet, screwed to the floor and spray foamed to seal. They sounded INCREDIBLE and I think a large part of it was the rigidity. If I were to attempt a door panel build I would likely do something similar, but with some glass or multiple layers of MDF & carpet over top for looks/shape. I can't see a couple layers of fiberglass over a stock door panel with plastic body clips providing a good base for a sustantial driver... Am I wrong? Big 3 with 1/0 welding cable, dual runs of 1/0 and 2gua F-R DD 2512 D2 powered by Audioque 1200d at 1ohm, 2.5ft^3 ported to 36Hz Boston SX 6.0 comps powered by Phoenix Gold M50 for front stage Silver Flute 8" midbass in doors powered by Alpine 3539 Alpine CDA-117 HU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blownengine Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 A couple layers of resin and mat on top of the existing door will be pretty damn strong. Strong enough for speakers and maybe an 8 for midbass. They will be strong enough, unless you plan on putting a 12 in the door or something. 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT (Yea its got a Hemi)Alpine CDA-105KnuKonceptz 0ga CCA Big 3 with Yellow Top 15" SoundQubed HDC3DC Audio 1.2K (Bass)Pioneer 6x9's (Front)Pioneer 6.5's (Rear)Kicker 3.5's (Dash)Sony amp on the highs. (Hey it was free) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 You could cut a wood chassis then mount the rings to it for stability. The glass and mat will take care of the panel fatigue between the rings if you use heavy mat. The only issue you could run into is weight pulling the pins out or shrinkage making it hard to fit. After glassing, put it on the door to wait for it to set Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 I have a ten inch midbass in each of my doors. The baffle attached to the door was 1 3/4 inch. Covered with grill fabric and one layer cloth, 2 layers chop matte. The rear of the door panel has 3 layers of chop matte and I may add an additional mdf layer on the back and two more layers of matte. The doors were sprayed with cascade deadener and expanding foam. multiple pieces of mdf will be glassed into the door which will be create a superstructure within the door covered by some fatmat or audio technix. I'll still be able to use my window. It's my first time going all out on a door panel so I want them to be strong. 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autruche Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 securing the panel to the door to stop all of the rattles can be a pain but the panel itself will be plenty rigid with a couple layers of glass and mat. Need Test Tones/Sine Waves? Click Here!My Saab 9000 build1993 Saab 9000 Aero 5spdPioneer - Zapco - Hifonics - Sundown Audio - O2 Audio - RE AudioJust Say No To Rear SpeakersJust Say No To CCA WireReal Men Drive StickHit me up on Facebook, if you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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