ham4864 Posted May 22, 2011 Report Posted May 22, 2011 i am wanting to hook up two batts. and a know how to do it but is it really necessary to have two of the same batts. if i use a isolator to isolate to rear batt.(yellow top)? 2009 bmw 5 series Head Unit Stock Amplifier-JL Audio JX 360/4 Processor- Audiocontrol LC6
kickass audio Posted May 22, 2011 Report Posted May 22, 2011 i am wanting to hook up two batts. and a know how to do it but is it really necessary to have two of the same batts. if i use a isolator to isolate to rear batt.(yellow top)? If you use the isolator then you will be running your system off the rear battery and ONLY your rear battery when the engine is off which you would be stupid to do this. Honestly ask any guy on here who knows their shit and you should run your system with the engine on for best results as your voltage will be higher and will make the amps work less to make the same power so in turn your amps will last longer since they wont get as hot. Also i really dont like isolators. I always just wire straight from front battery to rear battery and obviously fuse the positive wire on both sides just incase the wire gets cut into and shorts out. The isolator just serves a point of if you want to be a moron and bump your system without the engine running, you will drain the hell out of your battery in the trunk while your battery in the engine will be fully charged and will start the car right up. Id just get a voltage meter and hook up the two batteries without a isolator and monitor the voltage and if it falls low then its time to turn your car on and charge them back up or else have a dead battery. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress
moto211 Posted May 22, 2011 Report Posted May 22, 2011 run them in parallel , that way you power from both batts. CHECK OUT MY YOU TUBE PAGE http://www.youtube.com/user/motoxxx211?feature=mhee[/size]
ham4864 Posted May 22, 2011 Author Report Posted May 22, 2011 i am wanting to hook up two batts. and a know how to do it but is it really necessary to have two of the same batts. if i use a isolator to isolate to rear batt.(yellow top)? If you use the isolator then you will be running your system off the rear battery and ONLY your rear battery when the engine is off which you would be stupid to do this. Honestly ask any guy on here who knows their shit and you should run your system with the engine on for best results as your voltage will be higher and will make the amps work less to make the same power so in turn your amps will last longer since they wont get as hot. Also i really dont like isolators. I always just wire straight from front battery to rear battery and obviously fuse the positive wire on both sides just incase the wire gets cut into and shorts out. The isolator just serves a point of if you want to be a moron and bump your system without the engine running, you will drain the hell out of your battery in the trunk while your battery in the engine will be fully charged and will start the car right up. Id just get a voltage meter and hook up the two batteries without a isolator and monitor the voltage and if it falls low then its time to turn your car on and charge them back up or else have a dead battery. ok i understand you/but if i don't use the isolator wouldn't i need two off the same batts. and a HO alt.? because the second batt. will drain the front one. 2009 bmw 5 series Head Unit Stock Amplifier-JL Audio JX 360/4 Processor- Audiocontrol LC6
bumonskateboard6 Posted May 22, 2011 Report Posted May 22, 2011 If you wire them in parallel no it's not necessary to have the same battery, however it is recommended to have the same style battery. For example wet cell and wet cell, or AGM and AGM. As for adding another battery on just think of it as you "growing" your battery, it's adding the new battery's capacity to the capacity of the first. Current Systems: 2011 BMW 335i Hertz HDP1 DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber 2002 Acura TlKenwood DNX9980HD2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 CoilsDC 3.5kHertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 RearHertz HDP4 AmpDC Power Engineering 260 Amp AltBig 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0XS Power D2400 Up Front i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch... going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box... Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth. A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?
kickass audio Posted May 22, 2011 Report Posted May 22, 2011 i dont have a isolator and i have two different sized batteries and they work just fine. I have no voltage fluctuations from my front batt to the rear battery. I have a xs power s3400 (3300 max amps battery) in my engine bay and a xs power d3100 (5000 max amps battery) in the rear where my amps are and it works perfect for me. And honestly there are guys on here that keep their stock alternators and run 2-3 batteries off it and it works great but i highly recommend you do the big-3 as if you dont you can really fuck shit up. Take it from me, i burnt some wire by not doing the big-3 and its cheap and easy to do than to lose your car from a fire. Also i really believe this (and let the war start) but when i had a isolator a longgg time ago just to see if it was worth my while, it worked great considering it never drained my shitty battery in my engine but when i started up my old car the alternator was being worked so hard to charge up the front battery AND the rear battery i drained a ton with the car being off that my alternator got insanely hot and you could hear it whining under the intense load. What i usually recommend to do is get a good battery (i always recommend xs power since i love the power they provide and their customer service is unbeatable) and to get a high output alternator. Do the big-3 and then if you have any voltage drop to get a second battery for the rear. What kind of a system do you have anyways? 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress
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