moto211

yea , no problem

looks good..

Looks good , but the port section in the back , i dont think you need that ...

home depot or lowes , get a good one you can have them resharpened

yes ... it matters , there is a bit difference between a 1/4 round over and a 3/4

I really wanna put this in my signature...a router is one of the most versatile tools in the shop and does a lot more than cutting holes and making rounded edges. A round over bit will make your round edge, they come in different sizes, chose one based on the amount you want rounded. we all start somewhere ...

im sure there ok, i just had bad luck with mine

yea , i only do boxes now , i tired of this car audio crap lol its time for me to move on and do something new ...

yes , get a 3/4 rounder over bit .. i cover all of this in the video...

maybe you need a louder subs.... j/k

wait stop... the rounded edges are not with sandpaper.. with a router, you can use sandpaper it will take you weeks and you fingers will bleed... the stuff on the inside is resin , you can find it at home depot , here a video i did , it will help you ...

those things are crap, i installed one and the first note it broke what a piece of shit...

thanks . i have been waiting to build this for a few years

double baffle is where there is 2 pieces of wood stacked on top where the sub goes , its not a must , but it can help ...

i say ported ... cant go wrong

i learned this a long time ago, you need to do what YOU like , dont worry about what people say ...

i may be wrong but i thought he said the sub killed the box ..

go for it , this is how people capitalize on things , nothing wrong with a young entrepreneur...

dont forget your bracing , 30htz might be a little to low ,imo.. maybe 33-35 just a thought one more thing , i have always had good luck with the speakers firing up in a tahoe , with the port firing back , just an idea...

no not really , just figure out what the volume of bracing you use, im thinking for the size of your box it would be around .125-.250 cubic feet tops , so minus that from the vb , it will only change the port length 1/2"-1" or so and 1 htz should not be too big of a deal ... and you bracing should be front to back, side to side , top to bottom , just make sure it does not flex, you can use 2x4's mdf strips , round rods , any thing to brace it

pm me i can help you

bracing , bracing bracing , ohh and more bracing , the flexing of the box is what breaks them , some 45,s and some side to side , should be fine ... something like this

no kidding lol , thats next well maybe not, if theres a tv in there i wont get anything done!!! lol

you can use either one , they both work just fine , i like to use staples its a lot faster. Ihave never had a problem with staples coming apart, but i have have a problem with the wood splitting at the edge with screws .. and yes i predrilled , the only thing i would use screwes on is and wood bigger that 1" imo

i vote for staples, they have never let me down , the glue is the trick , besides screws take wwwaaayyy to long ... as long as you cut everything right and square , there should be no problem ... im pretty much cover all of this in the video...