lapaynem4 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Great looking build ! Kenwood KDC-BT33 Sundown Audio SAE-100.4 - 4 Crescendo Audio SC-650s Sundown Audio SCV-6000D @ (.5 ohm) - 2 DC Audio LVL5 M5 Elite 15s (d2) 6.45 ft Box ( Net ) tuned to 30 Hz - ( APM - 2 = 151.2 db ) 2004 Chevrolet Trailblazer LS 4WD Brand X 390 Alternator - XS Power PSC30 XS Power D3400 (front) - 3 XS Power D3100s (rear) Knukoncepts Kolossus Flex 1/0 - SMD Meters - SMD Fuse Holders Sky High Copper Battery Terminals - Amp Lab RPMC v2 SPL Cartel Bass Knob - Toolmaker Copper Amp Inputs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc_audio Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Those threaded inserts (EZ-loks) can be a real pain in the ass. I use them for plexi that needs to be removed again and again and that's it. They do really well in birch, but after a while they start to pull loose in MDF no matter how small of a hole you can get them threaded into. I would rather use T-nuts all day long if I could, because the one's I buy from parts express I can really crank em down tight. I only use threaded inserts with birch anymore. Replace with T-nuts? And when are you getting the other two subs? It's all gone! The Celica Build Feedback If I buy something from you, DO NOT USE FEDEX! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6berry Posted September 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Great looking build ! thanks a lot! Those threaded inserts (EZ-loks) can be a real pain in the ass. I use them for plexi that needs to be removed again and again and that's it. They do really well in birch, but after a while they start to pull loose in MDF no matter how small of a hole you can get them threaded into. I would rather use T-nuts all day long if I could, because the one's I buy from parts express I can really crank em down tight. I only use threaded inserts with birch anymore. Replace with T-nuts? And when are you getting the other two subs? i did some research and some people online said they held better than t-nuts but it doesnt really matter. ill just stick with the wood screws in the subs and hope the ez-loks that hold the port in work for me. if not ill just change those to t-nuts. and i have no clue when im getting the other two subs but hopefully within the next few weeks 1999 Audi A4 1.8T::: 4 - DC Level 3 10's in a 4th order Rockford P6002 on Subs for now (3-3.5k coming eventually) MB Quart ONX4.60 for Mids and Highs Boston S50 Components in Front Boston S65 Coaxials in Rear 40 Sq Ft of Second Skin Damplifier Build Thread UBL 1948 Plymouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc_audio Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 i did some research and some people online said they held better than t-nuts but it doesnt really matter. ill just stick with the wood screws in the subs and hope the ez-loks that hold the port in work for me. if not ill just change those to t-nuts. and i have no clue when im getting the other two subs but hopefully within the next few weeks Well, it depends. Some people have issues with T-nuts stripping threads and teeth folding over. I only buy from parts express and have never had issues with either. I will say I can make EZ-Loks look much prettier than T-nuts, but if you can't see them I'd take T-nuts all day long. I've got bags of these, somewhere around 500 threaded inserts and T-nuts here. Lol, they was on sale. It's all gone! The Celica Build Feedback If I buy something from you, DO NOT USE FEDEX! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6berry Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 ill probably get t-nuts from parts express before i put my next subs in because one of the ez-loks on the port came out about a quarter inch but it still got tight. update: i got gorilla tape around the edges of the hole covers and put it around the edges of the subs for good measure. port is bolted in with tape around the seam. tomorrow i will be testing the subs out on my brother amp to see what they sound like. ill probably get a demo video if i remember and ill post it up here 1999 Audi A4 1.8T::: 4 - DC Level 3 10's in a 4th order Rockford P6002 on Subs for now (3-3.5k coming eventually) MB Quart ONX4.60 for Mids and Highs Boston S50 Components in Front Boston S65 Coaxials in Rear 40 Sq Ft of Second Skin Damplifier Build Thread UBL 1948 Plymouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6berry Posted September 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 this video is 100% bass. i plugged the subs into my brothers zx1000.1 amp in his car just to hear how loud the bass was and its quite louder than the bostons are without even being broken in yet 1999 Audi A4 1.8T::: 4 - DC Level 3 10's in a 4th order Rockford P6002 on Subs for now (3-3.5k coming eventually) MB Quart ONX4.60 for Mids and Highs Boston S50 Components in Front Boston S65 Coaxials in Rear 40 Sq Ft of Second Skin Damplifier Build Thread UBL 1948 Plymouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6berry Posted September 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 and this is how we got it done. 1999 Audi A4 1.8T::: 4 - DC Level 3 10's in a 4th order Rockford P6002 on Subs for now (3-3.5k coming eventually) MB Quart ONX4.60 for Mids and Highs Boston S50 Components in Front Boston S65 Coaxials in Rear 40 Sq Ft of Second Skin Damplifier Build Thread UBL 1948 Plymouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6berry Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 i found one of these in my box of car audio stuff. my aunt bought it for me from a garage sale for $5 a while ago and i just looked it up and it does like 275 rms at 2 ohms bridged. i hooked it up to my subs to get them playing and its bumpin pretty good for because around 130 watts per sub. i notice them getting a lot louder as i play them too from them breaking in 1999 Audi A4 1.8T::: 4 - DC Level 3 10's in a 4th order Rockford P6002 on Subs for now (3-3.5k coming eventually) MB Quart ONX4.60 for Mids and Highs Boston S50 Components in Front Boston S65 Coaxials in Rear 40 Sq Ft of Second Skin Damplifier Build Thread UBL 1948 Plymouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6berry Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 started working on the trim panel for the rear arm rest to make it look prettier. also started working on the rear speaker pods again. I have to build these because the box is too high for the speakers to mount normally and i wanna try it out. 1999 Audi A4 1.8T::: 4 - DC Level 3 10's in a 4th order Rockford P6002 on Subs for now (3-3.5k coming eventually) MB Quart ONX4.60 for Mids and Highs Boston S50 Components in Front Boston S65 Coaxials in Rear 40 Sq Ft of Second Skin Damplifier Build Thread UBL 1948 Plymouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6berry Posted September 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 got another piece made up for the trim panel in the armrest. for the rest of the pieces i need to use 1/8" wood so i gotta get that then ill finish that. almost got the fiberglass speaker pods done. not bad for my first time ever doing it 1999 Audi A4 1.8T::: 4 - DC Level 3 10's in a 4th order Rockford P6002 on Subs for now (3-3.5k coming eventually) MB Quart ONX4.60 for Mids and Highs Boston S50 Components in Front Boston S65 Coaxials in Rear 40 Sq Ft of Second Skin Damplifier Build Thread UBL 1948 Plymouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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