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big 3 battery in trunk


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You can tell if it's a unibody or not does it have a ladder frame under the vehicle that a body is bolted to or is it all the same piece? Chances are if it's a modern car it's a unibody.

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You can tell if it's a unibody or not does it have a ladder frame under the vehicle that a body is bolted to or is it all the same piece? Chances are if it's a modern car it's a unibody.

i dont know i would have to check but my car is in mexico for the moment when i go back i will check thanks

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I have to do the big 3 on my roommates cobalt which has the battery in the trunk as well, personally I'm going to run positive and negative 1/0 to the rear because I'm pretty sure cobalts are unibody and I'd rather have a great ground instead of a mediocre one.

But other cars with batteries in the rear that have actual frames (rather than being a unibody) I dont see why you couldn't just do a ground to the frame in the rear.

Actually, you're pretty much always better off doing a direct ground. Pure steel is only as much as 15% as conductive as pure oxygen free copper. Most people that do direct grounds say that they get less voltage drop than being grounded to the frame. Your best be would be a direct ground and grounding to the frame at the same time.

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ok so whats a ground block? im new at this

take a digital multimeter, put it on DC volts, put one lead on where you want to ground it and put 1 lead on the ground of your battery. if it reads more than 0.2 v its a bad ground.

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ive got a 2000 lincoln LS. you can just use the factory ground man. i made a ground block in the trunk 2 years ago. just a week ago, i ditched that and just grounded to where the factory originally had the battery grounded. you'll only need about a foot of 0 gauge. but if you would also like to run a ground to the front, it couldnt hurt. im just saying, simply put, you'll be fine with just replacing the factory wire. and the LS's stock wire from the alt is 4 gauge i believe. looks to be slightly smaller, like 6 gauge tho lol

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ok so whats a ground block? im new at this

take a digital multimeter, put it on DC volts, put one lead on where you want to ground it and put 1 lead on the ground of your battery. if it reads more than 0.2 v its a bad ground.

ok i will do that as soon as i get to my car like i said its in mexico and im in TX thanks

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ok so whats a ground block? im new at this

take a digital multimeter, put it on DC volts, put one lead on where you want to ground it and put 1 lead on the ground of your battery. if it reads more than 0.2 v its a bad ground.

ok i will do that when i get to my car like i said its in mexico and im in TX so what does it have to read for it to be a good ground?

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ive got a 2000 lincoln LS. you can just use the factory ground man. i made a ground block in the trunk 2 years ago. just a week ago, i ditched that and just grounded to where the factory originally had the battery grounded. you'll only need about a foot of 0 gauge. but if you would also like to run a ground to the front, it couldnt hurt. im just saying, simply put, you'll be fine with just replacing the factory wire. and the LS's stock wire from the alt is 4 gauge i believe. looks to be slightly smaller, like 6 gauge tho lol

ok sounds good to me. but yea im still gonna run both to the front it wont hurt "only my wallet" but it dont matter

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