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06 Civic Build - New Build List on page 60


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Found a possible snag in my plans. After reading more on the Galaxy 7's docking station everything suggests the audio through the 3.5mm jack on the dock. However the HDMI cables carry an audio signal which can be converted through the converter that I'm going to use. However, my fear is that the port will not support the audio through the HDMI cable. So what I'm going to do is just order the dock. Once I get it, I'll test it out and see if it will work through the converter. If it doesn't then I'll go to the Media Tab like I was going to do previously before I found the dock conversion.

Here's the catch. If I have to go to that adapter instead of the dock, I just found out they're not even shipping them or supposed to be released, until early or mid September. Not the end of the world, however, I'd like to find this out sooner rather than later.

I'm going to go get my tablet today. I'm going to see if they have a docking station as well. That way I can find out as soon as my converter gets here.

More to come soon!

SOMEONE BUY MY HEAD UNIT SO I CAN PAY OFF THE CREDIT CARD I"M ABOUT TO USE!!!!!

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I thought you had this just about figured out? Damn, it looks to be a hazzle making something like this to work. I hope you do, cause I want to see the rest of the fabrication :popcorn:

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Well it's a newer product with not many accessories. I found out already I can order the media adapter now, so that's good. I'm reading reviews on it now. Research being done as we speak. IT WILL HAPPEN!!! I am picking up the tablet today, so fabrication will start soon!

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Ok so things didn't happen as planned tonight. I didn't have the funds to get the tablet tonight, but I'm not in any great hurry. I'll order it next week.

I did however fix the rear component door, brand new one, and then started the rear deck drawer. That's gonna take some real planning, although I think I have the jest of what I want to do. Not much flat real estate under there to get a good grab. Gonna have to do some thinking and planning.

I've got pictures but I'm about to head out for a date night with the wifey! Doesn't happen too often so when I have the chance I have to take advantage.

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Ok well, due to the fact that the Head unit package hasn't sold yet which I CANNOT BELIEVE, I'm not able to get the tablet just yet. I may have the ability this week when the paypal funds I had saved up hit my bank account. But I want to try and pay down my credit card before I use it this way. I don't want to just run out and put 600.00 on it if I don't have the funds to pay it off.

So that being said I can do one of two things. I can either get the tablet, which I need to get the bezel started, or I can get all the other pieces, i.e. converter, chargers, dock, etc.

If I have my preference, then I'd rather get the tablet first so I can start on the dash bezel. However, either way it's not gonna be ready for install for a while.

On the flip side, I want to get everything together to bench test it all before I get it all installed.

So that's where I'm at. I'm gonna try and get some pics uploaded of what I did the other night, but it's gonna depend on what time I have later.

If by some chance, someone picks up the head unit package from me, then it won't matter and I'll order it all at one time! But that's a BIG if right now! Lot of backouts at the moment!

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Ok so as I said the other day I got some more work done on the build. I redid the component panel door, which if you know anything about me with this build and things past you'll know that even though I'd do it in a minute I HATE doing things twice. But I just couldn't live with the results of the last panel door. So I changed it and re did it.

So here's some of the issues that were bugging me.

If you look at these pictures, you'll see that the space between the door and the panel is a little tight. When I cover this thing, it would just be way too tight.

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The next thing is, I didn't cut the pass through out very well. I think I measured it out instead of building the frame and then tracing it and cutting it out. Really what I should've done is measured it out, built the frame, and then used the router with a trim bit and cut it out then. I didn't do it that way. So this was standing out to me as well and this was really the main reason I made a new one. Obviously the top could be cut down or sanded down and it would've been fine. But the way this was cut out I had to make a new one cause I had cut too much out of one side or the other. You'll see in these pics. It's obvious!

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Just terrible terrible shotty work in my opinion. I can't believe I even allowed this in the first place. I must have been in a hurry.

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Here's more from the back side. Like I said, Shotty shotty work!

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So what i did was just basically cut out a new piece. I just shortened it by about 1/4" on the three sides and that will give me enough room to cover it and have it shut nicely, not jamb it shut.

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Roughed out.

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At this point I did what I should've done in the beginning, which was put it in place, then trace the pass through out. In this case unfortunately I would've had to pull the whole seat out and remove the whole panel to router it out with trim bit, or I'd have had MDF floating around the car, and that's no bueno! SO, I grabbed the jigsaw again, and just went super slow.

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I think it came out pretty good. I have a palm sander and I could use that if needed, but I think most of it is satisfactory and will cover just fine. I may sand it anyway, knowing me. LOL But for the most part I'm pleased with it.

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Spacing issues fixed as well.

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I think in the end, I may either round or 45 the edges with a chamfer bit. I'll deal with that later when it's time to finish it out. I'm still trying to decide what kind of materials I wanna use for this. I'm thinking suede for my first choice but then it's not very visible unless the seat is down so a cheaper solution might be used like carpet. I have yet to decide that. But again my first choice would be suede to match the seats. Or maybe black. The seats are going to get reupholstered at some point down the road with charcoal gray and black two tone suede. So maybe a combination of both will be in order.

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So once I got that done I decided the next move was to start the rear deck amp drawer. I originally thought I'd just do a manual drawer, and then I went to thinking about an actuator to slide out automatically to increase the "WOW" factor, then I went back to just getting it done and do it manually. Now the more I think about it, the more I want to get the actuator in there. I'll have to get the drawer done, then decide how far out it needs to extend so I can figure out what sized actuator I need. Then I'll alter anything I need to alter on the drawer to make it work. But that all has to be done before the sub box is built. This will all affect height limitations on the box.

So the first thing I had to do, which didn't make my girls happy, was remove the rear speakers. No the grills weren't missing this whole time, just removed them.

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I removed the whole rear tray to expose everything.

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Part of the reason I had to do this was because under the rear deck, the only things that are hindering any kind of slide out drawer are the hinge springs that stretch across the bottom of the deck, and the center seat belt in there. However, that being said I want to make sure it's able to be in there as well. So I'm not going to remove it permanently. If you will recall, I'm building a new rear try to house the rear speakers and crossovers in a custom forming. So what I'll do is put the seat belt mechanism back in, but using longer bolts and some custom creativity, and raise it up above the deck line. Then when I make the custom rear tray, I'll incorporate the height difference in there.

Here's the removed mechanism.

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I found the old wires for my trunk light, which is going to be changed to leds, and also for the rear brake light that goes in the rear deck which also is going to change when I put the new trunk lid on with the spoiler. That wire is what goes to the spoiler brake light. Anyway, when I sealed off the trunk for my old IB build, I foamed them in there for some dumb reason. But they're out now. Also in the pic, you can kind of see what I'm working with as far as height and what I have to work around under there.

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So next I cut a couple of braces to go under the rear deck. I was trying to not cut an entire panel to go across the rear deck.

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I ran into a little problem with how to square these brackets up. There's only a little space on the back side and I know that it's not square. The difference is over an inch and a quarter. So if I move them both in 5/8" it'll be square but I run out of space to attach it. So I only screwed them up front and let the rears float. It's just for mock up at this point.

Next I got my trusty foam board out.

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Screwed it to those pieces making sure that the front is square and the rear is all the way back where I want it.

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Then I wanted to make sure that when it's done, it sat back of the weather stripping cause I want it to be under the weather stripping not in front of it. That way it makes a cleaner look and cleaner finish. So if I have to go back anymore, I can always cut the difference of the back side which is a square cut, unlike this half moon cut. So I pulled the weather stripping up exposing the metal under it. That's what I wanted to trace against.

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Time to trace! Got my Bic Permanent Marker out and went to work!

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