06 Civic Build - New Build List on page 60

[scooter99]

Ok folks I'm starting to get a little pissed! I've been sitting here F-ing with Torres box calculator trying to figure out my box for my Hertz HX300D's. I'm trying to do vented, and have at this point anyway, said "F-IT" to the center cut out. I'm just trying to get a box to work. I originally had tried a full box at 40" wide x 14.5" tall x (wedge) 11" Top and 17" Bottom. That's for 2 12's. Here's the link to the specs on it. Hertz HX300D spec sheet

Their box calls for 34,88 Lit (1.23 cu ft) which does not include sub displacement (.10) but does include their port displacement at 82mm (3.22") x 220mm (8.66") at a total of 40 hz.

So I entered that info into the Torres Calc. and got this.

Now that's without the little cutout in the middle for the pass through. That's just a straight vented box. Then I started to try and get the little cut out in the middle, thinking I could do two separate ported boxes, and then just have them meet on the outside of the cut out, and I CANNOT GET THE TUNING DOWN TO 40hz OR EVEN CLOSE TO SAVE MY LIFE!

I don't know if I can just simply do the ported enclosure like I pictured above because I don't want to cut off the sound. That's why I put the pass through in there in the first place. I thought about turning the subs to the front of the cabin, behind the seats, and venting out of the pass through, but I'm not sure that would work cause the subs would essentially be cut off. I could set them back a couple of inches from the back of the seat, or panel that's there, but wouldn't that screw everything else up as well? I'm so confused and getting pissed by the second! I'm going to bed before my head explodes!!!

[scooter99]

Oh I forgot, the cut out pass through in the back seat is 11" x 5.5". So if I did that it makes the port way longer doesn't it? Cause it's 13" tall now x 2.85. Isn't that kind of small for dual 12's? So would I need to do that twice? Would it need to be 2.85 x 2 = 5.7" wide by 13" tall? And I don't have 16" of depth so would I go back until 2.85" away or 5.7" away and bend? This should not be so confusing should it?!? I know I'm not this dumb, so why isn't this clicking for me! AGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[scooter99]

So I know there's a lot of chatter going on. It's what happens when I can't build on my car. It's driving me nutz! But, here's what I'm thinking. I'm obviously having issues with this box. My original plan was to have something that looked like this, I absolutely love this thing:

I wanted to try and do dual subs this way, like these mock up drawings (this was before I learned how to use SketchUp):

This one is without a trim panel:

This is with a trim panel, bit one, and a logo (my own custom that still has to be made) in it:

This one just has some color to it:

It looks like that's not going to work, unless someone can figure out some way to help me make it work.

So, that all being said, I'm thinking I may cut down to one sub, with one LRx 1.1k now. Remember this is not a bass pounding car, which is gonna suck a little bit as it's my daily driver and I do love bass. However, I want it show worthy and as I said before, I ABSOLUTELY love the design that I showed first picture above. I'd love to show off a sub, if not both, that way. One sub at 800 watts of power in an enclosure like that would probably put out some pretty good bass. My truck is going to be the one that's the "ground pounder"!

Now if I do go with the one sub, I'll end up selling the second Hertz HX300D sub, and the second Audison LRx 1.1k. Along with that I won't have a need for both rear batteries, so I'll add one of those to sell as well. Those should help me re coupe some costs for other things that I have planned for the future.

So if I go with one sub in that enclosure that opens the door for layout possibilities as well. Currently I have the LRx 2.9 read to go in the rear deck drawer along with the LRx 2.4. With the single sub set up, I'l remove the 2.9 from there, and most likely the Bit One will go in there. If you will recall, the LRx 2.9 and the LRx 1.1k are the same exact size. My thought is to do one on one side of the sub and one on the other side of the sub. The LRx 4.1k will stay in the trunk lid, the battery on one side cubby in the trunk, and I think I will put the fuse holders etc, on the other side cubby.

These are all just thoughts, and all dependent on whether the enclosure will get designed or not. Could use some help there. In the meantime I'm going to go research and see if I can design it myself. Although I'm clueless on what I'm looking for and at. I'll start with google and go from there.

Does anyone have any thoughts, suggestions, wanna help with the enclosure, or whatever, I'm all ears.

[scooter99]

Well I have the Hertz 12's already so I'd prefer to stay with that. Maybe I just go to one of them in a traditional ported enclosure. We'll see what happens.

[IBleedMusick]

I can't wait to see the finished product this build is amazing Once it's all over then I can see what I can do to my new Civic build coming in March . I really want to see the frabrication work for the tablet done and working and since my fabricating skills are Novice at best it would be great to see how someone else did it in a Civic so I have something to work with. Impatiently waiting for this to be over good luck.

[scooter99]

thanks for following. I'm impatiently waiting as well. Wish I had more time to get work done right now. But it will resume soon.

[Blue]

Maybe instead of having the subs fire up, you have them firing to the side with a common chamber. That might be easier to do, and could have the magnets in the ported side also and have a big piece of plexi there. Just an idea.

[scooter99]

I had another guy suggest that. I've got another thread on here trying to figure this out in the sub enclosure forum. But he suggested .8 sealed and 3 - 3.5 ported with a port at 40hz and as much as I try to figure it out, I'm coming up short. I'm around 2.73 ported before the vent even. ALTHOUGH, this just hit me, I don't have to have the vent inside the box do I? is there something that says they port has to be in the enclosure, and has to be the same materials? Follow me here.

I went out and measured, and I have 9" of depth from the back of the component wall, to the front of the back seat. Then I have 11" of height and currently 5.5" of width, which I can add 2" to, making it 7.5" That's a total of 82.5sq in, at a depth of 9". Not sure if that helps me or not, but I thought it was worth a try.

Aside of that, this is what I figured out for a single ported enclosure.

[scooter99]

The problem is that I suck at winlsd. But I'll give it a shot. I just got home and decided to measure my box mockup and I've got 19" bottom and 14" too instead of the 11 and 17 I thought it was. So I'm gonna go back and re calculate and see where I'm at.

[donellk]

bass box pro will get u right on your band pass! normal ratio is 2:1 although on mine i didnt do a perfect 2:1 but very close! go external if u need to thats fine! normally u go recommended sealed for the sub but in bassboxpro u can plot out the performance of the sub in the box u design and change it as u need it witch makes it so much easier to get a good box done! I was told tuning around 45-50 would be the best range but i havent done any testing with that so cant say for sure i just tuned the one i built at 50 but were still playing with the port... started small with 12sq per cube going to try it external then maybe do a 6" aero port! It sound awesome just want a little louder highs! if u need any help just lmk ill be glad to assist in anyway i can im new to 4ths but have done a tone of research and nagging lol!